Investigating further is a good idea.theguyz wrote: ↑Jul 25th, 2018 10:30 amFridge is 8 years old bigger one 19 C FT. ( have set at 3 degrees fridge and -19 freezer ), will try and run a weeks run on it, as I have almost had time to run through all devices and appliances and energy monitor will be free.
Freezer is stand up one, which are know to not be energy effecient, soon as you open and close door, even for a second it runs at 125 watts, but settles down to standby and 50 watts. And only 7 years old.
I assumed these where decent wattage usage, but may investigate farther.
Yes dryers are pigs and technology has not changed much( was told this when bought that 15 year old and newer not much different in energy effeciency ), only decent feature on ours which is about 4 years old is heat sensor, detects when cloths are dry, sometimes a run will be an hour, other times if smaller load 20-30 minutes. We did start using air tumble dry feature for smaller loads, but forgot the times to check the TOU website....may look into further this weekend.
With some research I have found that the TP-Link HS110 is up to 4% in accurate readings. So anything I have gotten at 100 watts could actually be 104 or 96 watts.
I would use a kill a watt or similar (is your HS110 such a device) and measure for a week uninterrupted on each fridge/freezer because energy usage is not measured by the watts when the compressor is running because fridges/freezers run intermittently not constantly. Two weeks would be even better to get a kW/day number. The 4% inaccuracy is not ideal but not hideously terrible.
I agree its a system but internal loads are not usually not the biggest contributor. Assume that any heat generated indoors will take 1/3 to remove (a COP of 3 is typical). So those 280W computer savings will reduce heat load by 92Wh plus the 280Wh saved making 372Wh savings. But what computer uses 400Wh, my tower uses 50W average and 102W at 100% CPU utilization (which is rare). If your mining bitcoin that could do it. When i add monitor, modem, speakers etc i get under 75Wh total.ChubChub wrote: ↑Jul 25th, 2018 12:27 pmI wasn't saying the PC is a heavy lifter, but I "AM" saying that every watt that your PC puts out is another watt that you have to cool down. While you might think re-balancing can't COMPLETELY fix it (you might be right), reducing your PCs heat dissipation from (say) 400w to 120w would mean that room is that much easier to cool (I was going to move my actual PC into the basement ... but then I found out range limitations on DisplayPort, and that dashed those plans). You might also consider ripping down some drywall in that garage and insulating the HVAC piping properly (takes time, but the cost is super low). So, while you might still need an A/C unit in there to bring it to an acceptable level, you will potentially need to run it considerably less, or even ONLY on extremely hot days. This same mentality comes with sealing your home; less random air coming in, less energy you need changing that [for this season] hot-humid air into dry cool air. Even something as simple as blackout blinds makes an enormous impact (this is a guideline, but 1sq.m of sunlight on the ground approximately outputs 1kw of heat into a room).
Again, this is obviously not your primary source of excess power consumption, but you sometimes need to look at an "entire system" (in this case: a room, with a human, a computer, printer, maybe stereo, maybe a TV, lights, portable A/C unit, and a [for this season] cold air register that is apparently continuously kicking out cool air) to outright reduce the energy going in to the room, so you can reduce the energy required to then cool the room. And, until you figure out that your driveway heater is on, or you have 4x 100w incandescent bulbs on in your cellar (I did this; whoops), or your neighbour is charging their car off a plug in your pool-room, etc ... it is a way to potentially largely impact the comfortability of a room you're in a lot.
Also you want white window shades, black absorbs heat then radiates it in all directions including into the room and most double glazed windows being Low E means that heat does not escape. Being white it can reflect much of the light back out (which has heat energy) and some of the other UV/IR wavelengths, not all of them because it depends on the white material (i believe titanium dioxide reflects most of the UV/IR). Low E reflects long wave IR back into the building year round, a net gain in winter, a net loss in summer. Some Low E coating also keep it out but no way to know what coating material you have.
So in summary black will reradiate everything in long wave IR while white will reflect visible and some IR/UV depending on material. Some of the white reflection will still be long wave IR that cannot exit back out through the windows.
I have a ventless heat pump dryer, it uses about 2-2.5kWh/load. It also leaves all the heat energy indoors, great in winter, and extra load in summer. But its in my uninsulated unfinished basement meaning some of that excess heat goes into the ground so the load its adding is hard to calculate.ciuvak wrote: ↑Jul 25th, 2018 1:28 pmLook up ventless "heat pump" driers. These are different than plain condensing driers from past. The heat pump recycles the produced heat, instead of dumping it outdoors. The driers use 2-3 times less electricity, but might not be for everyone depending on where it's installed, etc. We've had a heat pump drier for about a year now and it works very well. Unfortunately I haven't monitored it to post some concrete numbers.