Home & Garden

Induction or Gas range?

  • Last Updated:
  • Oct 17th, 2018 2:17 pm
Tags:
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
Kevinck wrote:
Oct 10th, 2018 11:04 am
I've never looked at the back of these ovens. Once you pull it away from the wall it it obvious/easy to take the back cover off and look for these wires to the elements?

But i'm still curious why this only happens in in maintain mode and not all the time. Does it use a different wire to the bottom element for "preheat" mode than it does for "maintain temperature" mode?
I think it is 9 (read that somewhere) screws that come out and the back comes off.

I just found this thread:

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforum ... 0b86d6279f

Of interest is post #25 which is a diagram, and #29 which is perhaps another solution to a different cause.

I may tear mine apart on Friday instead of waiting until I get back from vacay. I know I have burnt wires, but now have a second possibility.
Jr. Member
Oct 14, 2007
170 posts
31 upvotes
Mississauga
Drakestar wrote:
Oct 10th, 2018 11:12 am
I think it is 9 (read that somewhere) screws that come out and the back comes off.

I just found this thread:

https://www.applianceblog.com/mainforum ... 0b86d6279f

Of interest is post #25 which is a diagram, and #29 which is perhaps another solution to a different cause.

I may tear mine apart on Friday instead of waiting until I get back from vacay. I know I have burnt wires, but now have a second possibility.
I got as far as pulling the range out - noticed there is a small door on the back that can easily be opened with just 1 screw removed. Looked at the wires here and they look ok. So I imagine that I need to take the entire back door off to see the area that could cause the problem.

Thanks for posting the link Drakestar. I think it would be more fun to have the repair person out again. He laughed sarcastically when I first showed him your and Kevinck's comments but they did help. I will just point him to your followup posts and hope for the best.

If I had the option of returning for refund I'd surely take that route. Will keep you posted.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
I did take the back off last night and took pictures, I might have even seemed to kind of fix it. I’ll post them when I get to work. I certainly had/have burning.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
***This is obvious, but make sure you UNPLUG the range BEFORE opening it up.

Alright. So I pulled the range out from the wall and unscrewed the 8 phillips head screws (I think the tech didn't replace one of them) and removed the back. In the bottom of the range was a burnt piece of what seems to be a chunk of ceramic insulator that burnt off the connector and dropped down. So I think the terminal that Samsung uses is cheap and wasn't adequate for a good connection. In the picture you can see how mangled looking it is and probably was not making a good connection. This connection may have been arcing and burning until the insulator fell off. So if this loose connection created an intermittent problem (which I have), replacing it may be the solution.

I didn't have the proper connector last night to replace it. I'll have to look around, maybe Canadian Tire has one in the automotive section, however I should have noted what gauge of wire I needed it for. What I did do however was try and squeeze the connector so it was tighter and stuck it back on and put it all back together again.

I preheated the oven to 375 and let it sit there for 15 minutes. I opened the door and my hanging thermometer read 350 (even though I have it up calibrated 25 via the panel, I'll have to put it back to zero and maybe reset it (?)). I left the door open for 20 seconds or so and the hanging thermometer dropped to 300. I closed the door and walked away. 15 minutes later it was reading 350 (YEAH!!!!). Previously, it would have stayed at 300 unless I typed in 376. So at least I have hope.

I wish I knew what gauge the wire was so I could pop out at lunch at get a terminal. Oh well, maybe a weekend project.

Sorry the pictures are so big. I think my connections on my control panel are okay. I have two extra red wires that are not on the diagram, but it is probably just not he exact model.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Maybe someone can verify that their panel wires are in this order:
Image
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jul 15, 2003
3071 posts
620 upvotes
Ontario, Canada
Ok i really need to take mine apart now and check.
Jr. Member
Oct 14, 2007
170 posts
31 upvotes
Mississauga
WOW! I am impressed Drakestar! Thanks for posting this. I will try to do this on Saturday when I have some time. Will try to take photos using the same angles that you have.

Kevinck - it would be great if you could check as well and we could all compare. Then we could all educate Samsung on the problem.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
I was having difficulty finding a high temperature terminal so I went to my mechanic. I am going to cut it off (sigh...take it apart again) so I can bring it to him in the morning and he can get me the correct part. We made some “mountain man” for dinner tonight and the range seems to work as it should. So I have hope.

As a very awesome bonus, I recieved my gift cards today.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jul 15, 2003
3071 posts
620 upvotes
Ontario, Canada
i opened mine this evening. i never thought i'd be disappointed to find NO burnt connections inside my oven. All the connections seem to be the same as drakestar.

Image

Image
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jul 15, 2003
3071 posts
620 upvotes
Ontario, Canada
I did another temperature test though. and it's behaving better (but not perfect ) than the last time i tested this. It actually seems to do some attempt to get back up to temperature. Some of those forums posts said resetting the thing made it work properly again for a while. i wonder if this is what it considers proper working order.

Set the oven to 350 degrees.
Took 10 minutes for oven to beep and read 350. Probe thermometer read 354. Probe went up to 357 then down and settled at 350.
Left it for 4 minutes and it stayed at 350.
Opened oven door for a bit and closed it. Probe read 311.
Over two minutes it slowly climbed to 340. Left it for 2 mins and temp stayed at 340.
Retyped 350, it beeped to say it was already there. Left it for 2 mins and temp stayed at 340.
Opened oven door for a bit and closed it. Probe read 302.
Retyped 350. It showed current temp 325 and started preheat again.
Over 1 min 45 seconds it climbed back to 350 on both display and probe thermometer.
Left it for 4 mintues and it stayed around 350.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
Well @Kevinck sad that it is disappointing that you don’t have burnt wires. Adds to the mystery I suppose. My connection was quite loose and I don’t think it was making a good contact, arcing and burning which made it an inconsistent issue. Did you happen to wiggle the wire to see if yours might be a problem in the making and just hasn’t gotten to the visable burnt stage yet? We had three techs out that didn’t notice anything or see the burnt piece, so maybe it didn’t actually burn and fall until sometime between the third and fourth guy but had been invisably failing.

I think the one tech guy said that there were two types of sensors used in ranges. One was digital and gives a digital reading back to the computer (better type) and was was mechanical that give information that needs to be translated to a digital message for the computer. We have the second type, so it is reasonable that there is going to be some leniancy in the reading perhaps. But ours was all over the place, sometimes off by a hindred degrees. I may be incorrect about this paragraph though.

I kept a paper by the range and wrote down what it was set at and what it actually was. This was helpfully for analysis. We cook alot and use it every day, so the chart grew quickly.

The test that you did seems to show that it is working okay-ish. Try a log and see if it is consistent. You can always calibrate it up 10 degrees (max is 25) and see if it helps. It is easy to do.

Edited because apparently I am terrible at typing this early in the day.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
Ohoh. So I ended up going to Canadian tire and buying the terminal. Replaced it and seems to be a good connection. I’d feel better if it the part was actually marked high temperature, still might track one down, expent we have another problem.

When we tested it, the left connection for the top element glows red...really red...scary red. So I unplugged it, and it has carbon build up as well and is quite loose.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jul 15, 2003
3071 posts
620 upvotes
Ontario, Canada
Drakestar wrote:
Oct 12th, 2018 2:12 pm
Ohoh. So I ended up going to Canadian tire and buying the terminal. Replaced it and seems to be a good connection. I’d feel better if it the part was actually marked high temperature, still might track one down, expent we have another problem.

When we tested it, the left connection for the top element glows red...really red...scary red. So I unplugged it, and it has carbon build up as well and is quite loose.
Glowing connectors sounds scary.

Y'know this makes me want to know...

Which elements turn on for preheat.
Which elements turn on (or try to turn on) for maintain heat.

if i know what should be turning on i could see what is going on with mine. of course this means probing while the thing is running which is a bit questionable
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
Kevinck wrote:
Oct 12th, 2018 3:56 pm
Glowing connectors sounds scary.

Y'know this makes me want to know...

Which elements turn on for preheat.
Which elements turn on (or try to turn on) for maintain heat.

if i know what should be turning on i could see what is going on with mine. of course this means probing while the thing is running which is a bit questionable
I think that during preheating, the bake (bottom) element turns on steady, while the top one turns on and off in 10 second or so bursts.

I replaced the glowing one. Glowing stopped. I think it seems to be fixed, but not certain, I’m confused as to all the cycles I have put it through haha.

Of note, don’t forget that if you set convection at 375, the oven will automatically only heat to 350 unless you change the convection feature via the control panel.

I might need to take a break and shuttle some kids around.

So far I have spent 1.46 on the parts that I have used. ($6 spent since I now have extras).
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
Now my top convection fan doesn’t seem to be spinning. Once it cools, I might swap them to see if the fan is fubared as well.
Deal Addict
Dec 14, 2011
1158 posts
323 upvotes
London
The first terminal replacement was for the convection element that wraps around the bottom fan. I was going to swap the fans, but I can’t get the nut undone. So I dismantled the top on and am trying to clean the carbon of it with an engine cleaner.

Top