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Low level deck framing with overhangs on all sides

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  • Apr 1st, 2019 10:48 pm
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 29, 2016
27 posts
5 upvotes

Low level deck framing with overhangs on all sides

Hi guys, trying to figure out if I can put a new freestanding deck on deck blocks (8"), adjustable bracket (7" or less) and keep it less than 2ft (2x8=7.5"). I can't bury the blocks. I came across a framing plan that has joists in between and leveled with the beams. See attached. Anyone know what fasteners are on the joints/intersections? I need the overhang parallel to the beams but I'm struggling to understand how the overhang is supported.
Images
  • IMG_20190401_142339.jpg
10 replies
Deal Fanatic
Jan 25, 2007
7329 posts
3491 upvotes
Paris
My lower deck is 23” at max off the ground with 2x8 joists and a 2x8 set into the deck block and a 2x6 sistered to it to make a beam. All blocks are above ground.

To go the route I see there, I’d put in post hole supports at the outer edge to hide them, but you said you cant dig.

I once made a deck without beams and just a LOT of deck blocks as I had 16”. I had dug down to make the deck ground level at the back of the house. Turned out great, but I think it cost more to do that than build it with beams as there were so many deck blocks.
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Oct 19, 2008
6289 posts
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Whitby
Mrlurk wrote:
Apr 1st, 2019 3:41 pm
Anyone know what fasteners are on the joints/intersections? I need the overhang parallel to the beams but I'm struggling to understand how the overhang is supported.
Joist hanger nails holding single and double joist hangers
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 29, 2016
27 posts
5 upvotes
Jerico wrote:
Apr 1st, 2019 3:54 pm
My lower deck is 23” at max off the ground with 2x8 joists and a 2x8 set into the deck block and a 2x6 sistered to it to make a beam. All blocks are above ground.

To go the route I see there, I’d put in post hole supports at the outer edge to hide them, but you said you cant dig.

I once made a deck without beams and just a LOT of deck blocks as I had 16”. I had dug down to make the deck ground level at the back of the house. Turned out great, but I think it cost more to do that than build it with beams as there were so many deck blocks.
Thanks for the input Jerico. I'd like to not dig a hole if at all possible. I also want to keep the adjustable brackets to level the deck in future and to keep the height as high as possible for air flow under the deck.... but still keep the deck under 2ft...
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 29, 2016
27 posts
5 upvotes
Zamboni wrote:
Apr 1st, 2019 4:51 pm
Joist hanger nails holding single and double joist hangers
Where do I put the double joist hanger?
Deal Addict
Nov 18, 2005
4758 posts
1143 upvotes
Kitchener
That's going to sag eventually. Why don't you put the posts at the ends?
[OP]
Newbie
Jun 29, 2016
27 posts
5 upvotes
Drthorne wrote:
Apr 1st, 2019 9:35 pm
That's going to sag eventually. Why don't you put the posts at the ends?
I'm using deck blocks and I don't want to see the concrete. The attached has the post inside. Something tells me it's not joist hangers inside the cantilever.
Images
  • cantilever.JPG
Deal Addict
Dec 17, 2007
1994 posts
979 upvotes
Alliston, ON
If you don't want the deck blocks to be visible, then install some skirt boards or a lattice.

How long of an overhang are you trying to do. Simply using joist hangers or structural screws on the blocking won't hold it for very long. Especially if you get a couple people standing on the unsupported section.

You either to to bury the deck blocks so you can use beams and joists on top. Or level off all the deck blocks with each other then install a beam between them all so your joists can sit on top.
Deal Expert
User avatar
Dec 26, 2005
16600 posts
1587 upvotes
Thornhill
Part of the desk I built is like that (although I used poured footings). Basically built everything with 2x6's, and to meet the load requirements, I had to sister or triple some of them to make the beams. The rest is just single joists.

To meet the beam span requirements, the footings were slightly above 6' apart. Entire deck had 25 footings. Sounds like overkill, but it met the standard load requirements.

bjl
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[OP]
Newbie
Jun 29, 2016
27 posts
5 upvotes
I managed to find footing pads (18x18x4) that are only 4 inches high (barkman footing pads). So if I do:
pad = ~4",
2x8 beam = ~7.5" ,
2x6 joist = ~5.5",
Deck board = ~1" ,

That gives me a bit less than 6 inches for an adjustable bracket for easier deck leveling. I'm going to use pylex adjustable deck supports so I have make a hole in the middle of the footing pad to install the bracket upside down or cut some of the bracket off. Attached some images for anyone else who might read this post in future.
Images
  • pylex.JPG
  • footing.JPG

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