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[Lowes] GSW N2073 Tankless water heater (TAKAGI)

  • Last Updated:
  • Dec 16th, 2018 10:45 am
Deal Addict
Nov 12, 2015
1961 posts
2108 upvotes
markopas wrote:
Apr 10th, 2017 9:56 am
Please don't think a tankless water system is an upgrade - I've had one since I moved in to my house and probably one of the first in Canada under new builds. Yes that system was a piece a junk and units have come a long way since then but I still think that going with a conventional tank system is a better option or at least rent a tankless because of the maintenance required to keep these things running.

If you want to invest in a really good tankless there are only two good ones on the market (Rinnai and Navien), we replaced our failing unit after 6yrs to a Navien. I think if you want to go tankless you need to go with a two unit tankless system and have them side by side in order for it to act like a conventional water heater.

Image

If you want to use a tankless system like the europeans then you need to usually have a small unit at every tap which guarantees you hot water at tap rather than running the hot water tap for 10-15sec. The closer your tap is to the system the quicker it will cycle to hot water.
What was the previous system?
Also I have a small house, so piping is not that far away from the basement, so don't think there will be more than couple of secs different between conv and tankless.
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Mar 3, 2011
1710 posts
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I have a 1652sq.ft. townhouse with the mechanical room on the 5th floor - the unit above is for larger houses, a single unit is good for houses about 2000sq.ft. or less from my understanding.
Sr. Member
Sep 9, 2008
584 posts
113 upvotes
Mississauga
superbigjay wrote:
Apr 10th, 2017 8:46 am
There is also the electrical part...
They usually need a set of "big" breakers in the electrical box (1 or more 40-60A breakers) with the appropriate wiring.
This is probably a good part of the installation cost.
If the actual wires going from your electric box to your standard water tank isn't the right gauge (which is probably the case), they will need to modify the wiring.
This unit only needs 15a breaker.

Electric
Consumption 120 VAC
0.74A - 90 watts!
(Operation)
0.04 A
(Standby)
1.5 A
(Freeze-Protection)

The bigger cost is the 636 PVC Piping that's roughly $55/10ft and you need intake and exhaust. Also if you don't have a drain near installation area, then you will need a condensate pump that can pump to the nearest sink.
Banned
Oct 13, 2015
1245 posts
824 upvotes
Sainte-Dorothee, QC
Is it satisfy for 4 family members house use?
Compared to the old fashion water heater tank? Which one is better?
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Nov 12, 2015
1961 posts
2108 upvotes
likemontreal wrote:
Apr 10th, 2017 3:00 pm
Is it satisfy for 4 family members house use?
Compared to the old fashion water heater tank? Which one is better?
It is more about how many showers are being taken at the same time, more than how many showers can be taken.

So for tank heaters, you have a limit of how many showers can be taken before water gets cold.

While for tankless, it is how many showers can be taken at the same time, for this model, seems like two showers at the same time is possible, and you guys can stay in the shower for days without it ending :).
When you upvote my posts, this is what happens:
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Newbie
Nov 22, 2011
69 posts
22 upvotes
Paradise
would you please describe more details what you wrote in the sale contract? I just bought a house, the rental water tank in my house is 17 year old but Reliance doesn't want to replace it even I called them.
MooseOnLoose wrote:
Apr 9th, 2017 6:47 pm
just bought an old home which had a Reliance rental unit in it, those things are way overpriced. Fortunately I remembered to exclude the water heater from the sale contract, keep that in mind if you buy a house, check to see if the tank (or anything else) is a rental and if it is, tell the seller you don't want it. Reliance will pick it up for free after you get a new one installed, but only if it was excluded in the sales agreement, otherwise they'll charge, or try to.
Sr. Member
Feb 27, 2008
951 posts
423 upvotes
Prince Edward County…
sthence wrote:
Oct 20th, 2017 11:42 pm
would you please describe more details what you wrote in the sale contract? I just bought a house, the rental water tank in my house is 17 year old but Reliance doesn't want to replace it even I called them.
It should simply be listed with any other "exclusions" from the sale. Appliances, Light fixtures, curtains, etc, may be listed as included or excluded from the purchase.

I'd suggest you call Reliance again. Tell them that you listed it as an "exclusion" from the purchase, in other words, it is not part of the property you purchased. If they want to see the sales contract, tell them you are not going to go to that work. The unit belongs to Reliance, they should come get it, if they want it. If they don't, tell them you'll leave it on the street. Don't give them your name, they will send you bills in your name if you do.
Newbie
Nov 22, 2011
69 posts
22 upvotes
Paradise
MooseOnLoose wrote:
Oct 23rd, 2017 12:29 am
It should simply be listed with any other "exclusions" from the sale. Appliances, Light fixtures, curtains, etc, may be listed as included or excluded from the purchase.

I'd suggest you call Reliance again. Tell them that you listed it as an "exclusion" from the purchase, in other words, it is not part of the property you purchased. If they want to see the sales contract, tell them you are not going to go to that work. The unit belongs to Reliance, they should come get it, if they want it. If they don't, tell them you'll leave it on the street. Don't give them your name, they will send you bills in your name if you do.
thank you for your good advice. I should do like you said for the next house. This is my first house ever, so I don't know many things.

The current house, the seller's agent doesn't want to resign the sale agreement with water heater excluded. :( This agent doesn't give me any contact to the seller as well.
I also called Reliance. Luckily the tank is over 16 year old, so Reliance gives me 3 options:
- $0 if I drop the tank as their drop-off location
- around $50 + tax if I put it on the street
- around $150 + tax if they come to uninstall the tank, drain out the tank, & take it.
Member
Mar 16, 2007
469 posts
16 upvotes
superbigjay wrote:
Apr 10th, 2017 8:46 am
There is also the electrical part...
They usually need a set of "big" breakers in the electrical box (1 or more 40-60A breakers) with the appropriate wiring.
This is probably a good part of the installation cost.
If the actual wires going from your electric box to your standard water tank isn't the right gauge (which is probably the case), they will need to modify the wiring.
Why would "big breakers" be required? The factory manual https://images.lowes.ca/pdf/14788/770110052779_ca.pdf shows 1.5A max in freeze protection mode? That is the highest current draw from this unit.

BTW $1,100 in Apr 2017 is a great sale price, it is now $1,600 in Feb 2018...., maybe similar sale will come up again as i am being forced to replace my 14.5 year old water heater as condition of house insurance renew with Allstate insurance.
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Sep 2, 2010
2047 posts
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montreal
KL wrote:
Feb 2nd, 2018 12:39 am
Why would "big breakers" be required? The factory manual https://images.lowes.ca/pdf/14788/770110052779_ca.pdf shows 1.5A max in freeze protection mode? That is the highest current draw from this unit.
LOL ...
Sorry, I this this was an electrical model ... (100% electric) which draw a lot of current.

This one is a gaz one ...
So you're right, this kind of heater draw very little power.
Deal Addict
Nov 8, 2005
1983 posts
554 upvotes
Hey guys,

I have a hydronic air system in my house - hot water heats coils inside of an air handler, which then pumps hot air to the house. It means heat in my house is reliant on my hot water heater. I currently have an Envirosense Direct Vent power gas condensing 50 gallon tank that outputs 100 000 btus. It's super expensive to replace and expensive to fix. it's been on the fritz and I'm wondering if this tankless unit would be okay to replace it with? Can any experts chime in?
Deal Fanatic
Aug 15, 2015
6969 posts
3073 upvotes
ON
tim-x wrote:
Dec 12th, 2018 5:56 am
Hey guys,

I have a hydronic air system in my house - hot water heats coils inside of an air handler, which then pumps hot air to the house. It means heat in my house is reliant on my hot water heater. I currently have an Envirosense Direct Vent power gas condensing 50 gallon tank that outputs 100 000 btus. It's super expensive to replace and expensive to fix. it's been on the fritz and I'm wondering if this tankless unit would be okay to replace it with? Can any experts chime in?
These are more powerful than that judging by BTU output and capable of doing what you suggest , but you still require a buffer tank and recirculation pump. What exactly is on the "fritz" with the old unit ?
In terms of energy efficiency, they're the same, no savings there and you have to take into account any costs associated with installation modifications if needed.
Deal Addict
Nov 8, 2005
1983 posts
554 upvotes
dilligafeh wrote:
Dec 16th, 2018 9:13 am
These are more powerful than that judging by BTU output and capable of doing what you suggest , but you still require a buffer tank and recirculation pump. What exactly is on the "fritz" with the old unit ?
In terms of energy efficiency, they're the same, no savings there and you have to take into account any costs associated with installation modifications if needed.
There's condensation building up in the blower motor which is causing water vapour to get into the pressure switches. I'm having to replace the pressure switches at around 60 bucks a pop. I've had my local hvac company in and they aren't sure what's wrong. I've been quoted to replace the blower motor at 1k plus labour. I have one of those Envirosense 50gal gas condensing power vented water heaters so replacing it would probably be 4k+. I'm just looking at options. If you have any expertise please don't hesitate to share. Thanks for your comment.
Deal Addict
Nov 8, 2005
1983 posts
554 upvotes
TomLafinsky wrote:
Dec 16th, 2018 10:26 am
Install the good old electric water tank. You pay twice for usage compared to NG, but you pay a fraction of the cost for the tank AND it is god damn simple. Two thermostats and two heating elements. Btw HD USA sells a kit upper/lower thermostats + two 4500 heating elements for US$28. You can't beat simplicity. And you'll never hurt over the cost of replacing the water heater.

If needed, install two tanks connected together. I did that for a neighbor. First 50 gal tank heats up water to 90F and the second 50 gal tank heats it to 140F (no mixing valve). Family of 5 never running out of water. I also installed a few ball valves and did piping so he could also use either tank if one failed.
Thanks for the idea. I'm not sure if my little furnace room has the space for two water heaters. I'm also not sure how that would work with my complex system.

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