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More Weeds than grass, What to do?

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  • Jun 19th, 2018 10:52 pm
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Oct 4, 2014
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bowmanville, ON
BeapChastard wrote:
May 18th, 2018 6:31 pm
Can you buy 1L of Par 3?
theres a guy on kijiji selling 1l for $50. says hes located in richmond hill.
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Jan 27, 2006
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cdnguy77 wrote:
May 27th, 2018 4:24 pm
theres a guy on kijiji selling 1l for $50. says hes located in richmond hill.
Not much of a deal considering 4L is $100 shipped. You might be able to go into business by buying 4L online and selling 1L bottles of the stuff for $40!
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craftsman wrote:
May 27th, 2018 7:49 pm
Not much of a deal considering 4L is $100 shipped. You might be able to go into business by buying 4L online and selling 1L bottles of the stuff for $40!
Got a link for $100 for 4L one?

(edit) How does the par3 smell compared to the spectracide from us? is it any less or more smell from par 3? The canadian seller is selling the par3 with wintergreen scent as a separate product for about 135$ (/edit)
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porksoda wrote:
May 28th, 2018 1:07 pm
Got a link for $100 for 4L one?

(edit) How does the par3 smell compared to the spectracide from us? is it any less or more smell from par 3? The canadian seller is selling the par3 with wintergreen scent as a separate product for about 135$ (/edit)
They had one seller on e-bay selling it for $99 CDN shipped. Looks like due to the RFD effect, they now jacked the price to $115. Just search 'Par 3' on e-bay and you'll find it.

I've never used Par 3 as I have access to 2,4-D here in Vancouver or just across the border in Blaine so I can't compare Par 3's smell to Spectracide - I would assume that since the chemically smell is very distinct in 2,4-D that Par 3 would still have that along with a minty fresh smell.
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craftsman wrote:
May 28th, 2018 1:28 pm
They had one seller on e-bay selling it for $99 CDN shipped. Looks like due to the RFD effect, they now jacked the price to $115. Just search 'Par 3' on e-bay and you'll find it.

I've never used Par 3 as I have access to 2,4-D here in Vancouver or just across the border in Blaine so I can't compare Par 3's smell to Spectracide - I would assume that since the chemically smell is very distinct in 2,4-D that Par 3 would still have that along with a minty fresh smell.
Probably a hot item for ontarians. Is par 3 comparable to spectracide or is it better? 1L of concentrate is 10USD vs this ends up being 25-30CDN per Litre.
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porksoda wrote:
May 28th, 2018 8:49 pm
Probably a hot item for ontarians. Is par 3 comparable to spectracide or is it better? 1L of concentrate is 10USD vs this ends up being 25-30CDN per Litre.
Par 3 is commercial stuff that they typically use on golf courses and the like. It's supposed to have 2x the concentration of 2,4-d than the regular consumer stuff. The newer versions of Spectracide and the various other products found in the mega-marts across the border typically also have herbicides for crabgrass but that only works for relatively young crabgrass plants.

As for what's better value for the money if you can get easy access to both, the stuff South of the border is on a pure cost basis as well as the ability to kill crabgrass early in the season. However, since most people have a hard time in getting that stuff South of the border (either due to shipping, or having to make the trip down there yourself), Par 3 is really the only reasonable game in town for those parts of Canada which are restricted in the use of 2,4-D. Now, if you have access to Killex locally, the going rate for Killex in the 1L bottle is about $25 and since Par 3 is double the concentration, I would say Par 3 is also the better deal than Killex if you need or can distribute quantities of product to friends and neighbours.
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Mar 17, 2006
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Quick question. My grass is fairly long. Should I spray the weed killer ( the good stuff from to US) while the grass ( and weeds)are longer and then mow it? Or should I mow it first and then spray?
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Aug 10, 2015
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esoxhntr wrote:
May 27th, 2018 11:57 am
anyone have success eradicating wild violets in grass

while the dandies are gone, violets seem to laugh at 2-4d it seems
I'd be interested in help with this as well. A quick Google basically just says selective herbicides, best applied in the fall.

I have not had any success pulling them out (obviously), and they do laugh at milder sprays, like vinegar.

If you have a fairly localized problem, with dense violets, you may want to just go with a "kill everything" approach like Roundup, or solarizing, and lay a few rolls of sod to replace the grass.
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rkjredflag wrote:
May 29th, 2018 9:12 am
I'd be interested in help with this as well. A quick Google basically just says selective herbicides, best applied in the fall.

I have not had any success pulling them out (obviously), and they do laugh at milder sprays, like vinegar.

If you have a fairly localized problem, with dense violets, you may want to just go with a "kill everything" approach like Roundup, or solarizing, and lay a few rolls of sod to replace the grass.
to update, the war on violets has turned in my favour. i was checking on them last night and most have turned yellow 12 days or so after an application of 2,4-d. I've read that I should blast the resiliant plants again and will be doing that this evening.

we must have read the same pages although i found there were two effective windows, one in the fall and one when the plants are flowering in may (now).
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craftsman wrote:
May 29th, 2018 12:35 am
Par 3 is commercial stuff that they typically use on golf courses and the like. It's supposed to have 2x the concentration of 2,4-d than the regular consumer stuff. The newer versions of Spectracide and the various other products found in the mega-marts across the border typically also have herbicides for crabgrass but that only works for relatively young crabgrass plants.

As for what's better value for the money if you can get easy access to both, the stuff South of the border is on a pure cost basis as well as the ability to kill crabgrass early in the season. However, since most people have a hard time in getting that stuff South of the border (either due to shipping, or having to make the trip down there yourself), Par 3 is really the only reasonable game in town for those parts of Canada which are restricted in the use of 2,4-D. Now, if you have access to Killex locally, the going rate for Killex in the 1L bottle is about $25 and since Par 3 is double the concentration, I would say Par 3 is also the better deal than Killex if you need or can distribute quantities of product to friends and neighbours.
thanks, makes it a good value then. I ordered it - came under 100 with the ebay coupon that is alive till end of 30th.
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Aug 26, 2002
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ur_too_crazy wrote:
May 29th, 2018 8:41 am
Quick question. My grass is fairly long. Should I spray the weed killer ( the good stuff from to US) while the grass ( and weeds)are longer and then mow it? Or should I mow it first and then spray?
Cut your grass first then apply the weed killer.
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Jun 9, 2003
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or you can do what my neigbour up the street did...he f'ing poisoned his whole lawn...its just yellow and looks like hay now.

the shit he sprayed even killed some of the grass at the border of neighbors grass.

im tying to figure out any bylaws he's broken cause he even killed the easement grass that technically isnt his property....all done so he doesnt need to cut the grass.
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ur_too_crazy wrote:
May 29th, 2018 8:41 am
Quick question. My grass is fairly long. Should I spray the weed killer ( the good stuff from to US) while the grass ( and weeds)are longer and then mow it? Or should I mow it first and then spray?
rvs007 wrote:
May 29th, 2018 1:52 pm
Cut your grass first then apply the weed killer.
Actually you get better results if you give more surface area for the spray to adhere to, and give it about 24-48 hours for the chemical to kill the weed.
thelefteyeguy wrote:
May 29th, 2018 1:59 pm
or you can do what my neigbour up the street did...he f'ing poisoned his whole lawn...its just yellow and looks like hay now.

the shit he sprayed even killed some of the grass at the border of neighbors grass.

im tying to figure out any bylaws he's broken cause he even killed the easement grass that technically isnt his property....all done so he doesnt need to cut the grass.
Actually that's the easy part. You can spray paint thinner and it'll do the same thing. The hard part is getting something that only kills weeds without killing grass.
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Aug 26, 2002
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tebore wrote:
May 29th, 2018 2:01 pm
Actually you get better results if you give more surface area for the spray to adhere to, and give it about 24-48 hours for the chemical to kill the weed.
Just going by the instructions on my jug of Bonide Weedbeater which says to mow before treating for best results.

http://www.bonide.com/assets/Products/Labels/l893.pdf
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ur_too_crazy wrote:
May 29th, 2018 8:41 am
Quick question. My grass is fairly long. Should I spray the weed killer ( the good stuff from to US) while the grass ( and weeds)are longer and then mow it? Or should I mow it first and then spray?
The answer is a bit more complicated than the question....

For weed killer to work, the active ingredient (I'm assuming we are talking about 2,4-D) would need to contact the leaves of the weed in sufficient quantities to actually kill the weed. If you mow the grass first, some weeds will have most of their leaves mowed with the grass so there will be a very small target area to hit. On the other hand, other weeds which are more hug the ground type of weed, will be more exposed making them easier to target with the weed killer. For best results, depending on the assortment of weeds, maybe to do two applications, once after mowing to hit the ground hugging weeds like the creeping charlies and one in a few weeks after for those who hand most of their leaves mowed off and started to grow back.

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