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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Deal Addict
Feb 24, 2004
1549 posts
269 upvotes
I'm looking to use Torly's floating engineered hardwood floor in my basement -- it's only 7' high so I'm looking for the solution that doesn't require a major sub-floor. According to the literature, all I need for the Torly is the 3-in-1 foam, right?

It's just concrete right now and definitely not leveled - would say a difference of 1" from wall to drain. I read this thread and Torly's website and there's no mention of needed it completely leveled. Will the 3-in-1 foam level the floor or should I use self-leveling compound on the concrete before I lay the foam?

Thanks in advance!
Jr. Member
User avatar
May 31, 2009
103 posts
4 upvotes
Aurora
hi patrob!

I'm not sure if you already answered this question but i read somewhere here you can recommend a good hardwood floor installer. I just bought a new house and closing day is Oct 27th and i need to find a reputable installer , i already bought the wood.
Newbie
Aug 20, 2009
1 posts
The best place to get deals on hardwood flooring is AcademyFloor.com . They offer a warehouse full of hardwood flooring , supplies, installation tools, and things for repair.

I used them for my entire DIY project. They have really fast shipping speeds and are the only customer support that could answered my questions in Details.

A+ in my book.
Deal Expert
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Apr 21, 2004
58648 posts
24637 upvotes
I, surprisingly, discovered this thread while googling 'hardwood' flooring.

How can I tell if the standard hardwood flooring is already engineered hardwood? Or is engineered hardwood flooring only critical when used in more moist conditions like basements?

How good is radiant heating technology (Oakville/GTA winter climate) and how much does it cost to install per square foot? Will it be a technology to have around the entire house or limited to bathroom floors? When I used to live in Coquitlam, BC, my dad's house bought in 1994 already had radiant heating in all rooms.

What kind of hardwood flooring can withstand radiant heating?

Since it's new house that we are purchasing, how do I get radiant heating installed by a contractor if the builder will charge an arm and a leg for it?

Thanks so much guys and gals (Patrob).
Deal Addict
Dec 21, 2005
1291 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
Hi Patrob,

We spent most of today visiting showrooms and getting estimates for our floors. We've really taken a liking to Mirage Charcoal (maple) and I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions based on our experiences today.

1. One place quoted us $6.30 sq/ft for the material. Do you think this is a fair price?

2. Another location said they could offer $4.85 sq/ft, but it would be Mirage Charcoal stain on Wickham manufactured planks. Is this a common practice to take stain from one manufacturer to another manufacturer's wood? We have some reservations about possible quality issues (we're worried we might not get the same look). How are Wickham products?

3. We'd really like to do our stairs like the following:
http://i26.tinypic.com/34np3bd.jpg

Here's what our stairs look like now:
http://i28.tinypic.com/30svrbq.png
http://i26.tinypic.com/sd04dg.png

We've asked some of the hardwood flooring people about how to achieve this look, but none of them have any experience with stairs. Could you provide some insight as to how easy or difficult the transformation might be and how much you think it might run us in terms of cost? Are the stairs in the first image just hardwood stairs painted white with runners? We were hoping we could just change the side of the stairs (where the rails are).

Thanks!
Newbie
Aug 20, 2009
3 posts
I don't know about the stain but we just bought Wickham floor select & better and don't like it. The color variation is more than we expected.
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1546 upvotes
Brampton
Free Willy wrote: Hi Patrob,

We're getting ready to replace our carpets with hardwood throughout the house. Like Freebird1, I'd like to know if you can recommend a reputable company in the Markham area.

Also, we plan on re-carpeting our stairs rather than re-capping them. Should we deal with our stairs or our floors first?
It's better to have the carpets installed after the hardwood, you don't want contractors walking & dust up your brand new carpets.
When do you want to have this job done?
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
Freebird1 wrote: Yes, you're right. I guess recapping is what they need. I wasn't sure if they come in a replace the whole staircase or just finish the top with hardwood. I guess recapping makes more sense.

They also want to do just the upstairs hallway....no bedrooms right now. I think...

Does doing the bedrooms now or latter change anything? Thanks.
If all your joists are going in the same direction throughout, your floors will also be going the same direction throughout (across the joist) So if you install just a hallway & you have a room where the floors will be running in the same direction (in the future), there will be a cross piece in the doorway. If you don't mind that, you can do the bedrooms later.
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
fly wrote: I'm looking to use Torly's floating engineered hardwood floor in my basement -- it's only 7' high so I'm looking for the solution that doesn't require a major sub-floor. According to the literature, all I need for the Torly is the 3-in-1 foam, right?

It's just concrete right now and definitely not leveled - would say a difference of 1" from wall to drain. I read this thread and Torly's website and there's no mention of needed it completely leveled. Will the 3-in-1 foam level the floor or should I use self-leveling compound on the concrete before I lay the foam?

Thanks in advance!
Use the 3-in-1 underlay right over concrete. The drain & the slope towards it is there for a reason. The floor will have to follow the sub-floor unless you build an additional sub-floors which will reduce your height.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
JoeMir wrote: hi patrob!

I'm not sure if you already answered this question but i read somewhere here you can recommend a good hardwood floor installer. I just bought a new house and closing day is Oct 27th and i need to find a reputable installer , i already bought the wood.
We install hardwood for a living.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
Free Willy wrote: Hi Patrob,

We spent most of today visiting showrooms and getting estimates for our floors. We've really taken a liking to Mirage Charcoal (maple) and I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions based on our experiences today.

1. One place quoted us $6.30 sq/ft for the material. Do you think this is a fair price?

2. Another location said they could offer $4.85 sq/ft, but it would be Mirage Charcoal stain on Wickham manufactured planks. Is this a common practice to take stain from one manufacturer to another manufacturer's wood? We have some reservations about possible quality issues (we're worried we might not get the same look). How are Wickham products?

3. We'd really like to do our stairs like the following:
http://i26.tinypic.com/34np3bd.jpg

Here's what our stairs look like now:
http://i28.tinypic.com/30svrbq.png
http://i26.tinypic.com/sd04dg.png

We've asked some of the hardwood flooring people about how to achieve this look, but none of them have any experience with stairs. Could you provide some insight as to how easy or difficult the transformation might be and how much you think it might run us in terms of cost? Are the stairs in the first image just hardwood stairs painted white with runners? We were hoping we could just change the side of the stairs (where the rails are).

Thanks!
No idea about Wickham. The price will depend on the plank width & grade. Actually Vintage makes a similar colour on maple called Slate http://www.vintageflooring.com/images/c ... eslate.jpg

Regarding the stairs, to achieve that look, yes you will need to re-cap the treads in wood & paint the sides/risers white. Or you can just paint your pickets white & stain the handrail to match the hardwood floors if you don't want to spend a lot of money now. That alone will change the way the stairs look.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
alanbrenton wrote: I, surprisingly, discovered this thread while googling 'hardwood' flooring.

How can I tell if the standard hardwood flooring is already engineered hardwood? Or is engineered hardwood flooring only critical when used in more moist conditions like basements?

How good is radiant heating technology (Oakville/GTA winter climate) and how much does it cost to install per square foot? Will it be a technology to have around the entire house or limited to bathroom floors? When I used to live in Coquitlam, BC, my dad's house bought in 1994 already had radiant heating in all rooms.

What kind of hardwood flooring can withstand radiant heating?

Since it's new house that we are purchasing, how do I get radiant heating installed by a contractor if the builder will charge an arm and a leg for it?

Thanks so much guys and gals (Patrob).
Open the vent to see if the floor is solid or engineered. Engineered is versatile & can be used anywhere.

Not familiar with pricing for radiant heat but I now it's expensive. IMO there is no need for radiant heat in bedrooms. Only engineered hardwood can be installed over radiant heat. If your builder is installing your floors, he will have to also install radiant heat. And I am not surprised they are charging you an arm & a leg for it. They probably don't want to be bothered so they are quoting you high, so you say no :D
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Deal Guru
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Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
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Brampton
cxcr wrote: I don't know about the stain but we just bought Wickham floor select & better and don't like it. The color variation is more than we expected.
S&B should not have a lot of colour variation, the wood should be more clear, there is a reason why there are diff. grades available...
Grade of the wood will depend on the manufacturer, so you get what you pay for.
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Newbie
Aug 20, 2009
3 posts
Hi Patrob,

We have a squeaky floor problem in our master bedroom which we could not fix.

At first, we added screws but the sound didn't go away. Then, we opened up the OSB subfloor and found out the sound is actually form the supporting joist. So, we reinforced the joist by adding some wood. The sound went away. However, when we install the hardwood floor today, it start squeaking again. Do you know how we can fix it? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Deal Addict
Dec 21, 2005
1291 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
patrob wrote: It's better to have the carpets installed after the hardwood, you don't want contractors walking & dust up your brand new carpets.
When do you want to have this job done?
Thanks for the reply, Patrob. And yeah, we got the same answer when we asked around today. =) As for when we're hoping to complete the job, we're aiming for sometime before October. We'd ideally like to get things done before Labour Day, but we're sort of stuck on what to do with our stairs, and haven't gotten any estimates for the various options we're considering yet.
patrob wrote: No idea about Wickham. The price will depend on the plank width & grade. Actually Vintage makes a similar colour on maple called Slate http://www.vintageflooring.com/images/c ... eslate.jpg

Regarding the stairs, to achieve that look, yes you will need to re-cap the treads in wood & paint the sides/risers white. Or you can just paint your pickets white & stain the handrail to match the hardwood floors if you don't want to spend a lot of money now. That alone will change the way the stairs look.
The $6.30 quote was for 3 1/4" wide planks with Exclusive grade. Does this sound about right to you? What do you think about the other place's idea of custom ordering Mirage stain on Wickham wood? As for Vintage Slate, we did take a serious look at it, since you've recommended Vintage several times in this thread. Unfortunately, it was too dark/purple for us and we preferred the creamier undertones in the Charcoal.

Our deliberation on the treatment of our stairs is what's mainly holding up our project. So to achieve that look in the photo, do you mean we have to re-cap our entire staircase (full treads and risers)? Is it possible to just do the strip under the rails and add molding? We'd be happy with carpet running flush to the walls.

Again, thanks so much for taking the time to offer your help! It's really appreciated. =)
Deal Addict
Dec 21, 2005
1291 posts
150 upvotes
Toronto
cxcr wrote: I don't know about the stain but we just bought Wickham floor select & better and don't like it. The color variation is more than we expected.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, cxcr! Have your Wickham floors been installed already? What sort of colour variation are you seeing that you weren't expecting? I'm actually interested in having some variance (hence why I'm looking at Mirage's Exclusive grade), but I'm not too keen on blotchy/cloudy variations in colour (looking for something a bit softer). Other than the colour variations, how do you find Wickham floors? Really appreciate your insight! =)
Newbie
Aug 20, 2009
3 posts
Hi Free Willy,

I tried to upload a picture but have not figured out how to do so.

Well, a lot planks have very dark spots/lines/clouds. Just like Patrob said you got what you paid for. However, dark stain may be able to cover these.

Other than the colour variation, some planks have big dark hole on the back.
Deal Addict
Feb 24, 2004
1549 posts
269 upvotes
patrob wrote: Use the 3-in-1 underlay right over concrete. The drain & the slope towards it is there for a reason. The floor will have to follow the sub-floor unless you build an additional sub-floors which will reduce your height.
ah, so it's okay to have a slight slope. Thanks!
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1546 upvotes
Brampton
cxcr wrote: Hi Patrob,

We have a squeaky floor problem in our master bedroom which we could not fix.

At first, we added screws but the sound didn't go away. Then, we opened up the OSB subfloor and found out the sound is actually form the supporting joist. So, we reinforced the joist by adding some wood. The sound went away. However, when we install the hardwood floor today, it start squeaking again. Do you know how we can fix it? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
If it's the same sound (sub-floor/joist) you will have to open it up again. If it's possible, fix it from underneath. Something is moving, could be joist against hanger, or joist against joist. If you don't want the mess, you will have to live with it.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
11038 posts
1546 upvotes
Brampton
Free Willy wrote: Thanks for the reply, Patrob. And yeah, we got the same answer when we asked around today. =) As for when we're hoping to complete the job, we're aiming for sometime before October. We'd ideally like to get things done before Labour Day, but we're sort of stuck on what to do with our stairs, and haven't gotten any estimates for the various options we're considering yet.

The $6.30 quote was for 3 1/4" wide planks with Exclusive grade. Does this sound about right to you? What do you think about the other place's idea of custom ordering Mirage stain on Wickham wood? As for Vintage Slate, we did take a serious look at it, since you've recommended Vintage several times in this thread. Unfortunately, it was too dark/purple for us and we preferred the creamier undertones in the Charcoal.

Our deliberation on the treatment of our stairs is what's mainly holding up our project. So to achieve that look in the photo, do you mean we have to re-cap our entire staircase (full treads and risers)? Is it possible to just do the strip under the rails and add molding? We'd be happy with carpet running flush to the walls.

Again, thanks so much for taking the time to offer your help! It's really appreciated. =)
I took a look at the inspiration pic again & the stairs look fully carpeted. The part of the railing looks like a mini wall following the stairs with mouldings & railings are installed on it. So for this, you will not have to re-cap your stairs. But remove the railings, build up the railing side, re-install the railings/pickets & paint it. The price for wood sounds ok.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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