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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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Nov 16, 2005
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patrob wrote:
Nov 14th, 2009 8:24 pm
This sounds more like improper installation. Possibly not enough or wrong glue used. Did you contact the company that installed it? Who is the hardwood manufacturer?

Not every condo will allow you to install solid hardwood (nail down). Check with the condo management for specs.
The hardwood came from Quickstyle...paid like 4700 incl installation for around 550 SF of engineered walnut. Do you think that was too much?

I did contact the contractor and they said they will try to fix it by screwing the loose boards to the concrete straight from the surface... I don't think this will be a feasible option as there will be A LOT of screws all over the surface of the floor. The thing is that he cannot even guarantee that this will fix my problem.

Do you have any suggestions as to how to fix it? Also, have you seen any problems similar to mine in the past?

Hypothetically, if condo management allows nail down solution, would you recommend it? Or would you still recommend the glue solution?

Thanks
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Dec 19, 2006
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Hi,

I was at my folk's house over the weekend and realized that they have a crap load of unfinished hardwood in their aluminum shed. I'm thinking about using it, but since it's been in there for quite some time (probably 8 years+) I'm concerned that it's no good. It's not in any boxes, but the wood is stacked one on top of the other (not leaning against any walls). I think a mouse may have lived in the shed for a bit too while it was in there :)

What can I do to determine if it is still good? Is this a lost cause or can I salvage the flooring?
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Mar 9, 2008
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patrob wrote:
Nov 14th, 2009 8:16 pm
Auction but I personally would not buy anything from there including HD or Rona. Look for sales or specials at hardwood flooring stores.
hi Patrob

I am shopping for engineered flooring for my Condo and since I am tight on budget can you recommend on some of the store that you suggest? I am Newbie on this. Most likely I need to hire someone to remove my old carpet and install the new flooring. my condo is around 550 SQ/feet.

My budget is under $4500. and I am looking for hard wood engineered floors that is dark dark ash brown, mid gloss/sheen( I hope I know my colors)...
I saw some at home depot but they are expensive and the Cheap one that I kinda like was call Serenata Oak for 3.79 /SQ feet.

I was looking for Bamboo, but non of them are engineered.

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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txenglan wrote:
Nov 14th, 2009 9:06 pm
You are welcome! :D

Ahhhh...now I see. Ouch, that is a disappointment. Maybe it is just me but I find the Vintage website to be confusing. The idea seems to be that you choose a top-level category (pioneered, engineered, solid sawn or solid sawn handscraped) and for each one, you get a listing of available stains and colours. I had thought the "white oak/old oak" colour was available in the pioneered (hence my assumption of availability in 3.25") category as I see no domestic species listed at all in the solid sawn category! :confused: In fact, it confused me even more when I realized that I could not find the type and sizes of "fumed oak" you had been referring to earlier in this thread. To make things even more confusing, despite the fact the website doesn't seem to show any domestics (yet shows "domestic colours") in the solid swan category, the brochure Rome Flooring gave me today clearly shows that it does exist but that it is a "new product". If I am missing something here, please let me know. It just seems to me that the Vintage web page is missing information or is incredibly counter-intuitive.

Incidentally, the guy who came from Rome Flooring to do measurements gently pushed me to consider buying the Goodfellow product, which sells for approx $1 less per sq ft across the board but for which he claims has almost "exactly" the same quality as Vintage. I assume he means the Vintage pioneered line. I ran into the same attitude elsewhere when I went to another store to get a quotation on carpet for my stairs. They scoffed at Vintage and said that you are paying for a name, "much as one would for the prestige of owning a BMW", one guy said. I couldn't help wondering what you would have said to such things :)

Hmmmm....thanks for the advice. I asked about RH today when I mentioned my interest in exotics and the guy from Rome Flooring sort of gave me a look of disapproval and said that I have nothing to worry about in "this house", suggesting, I suppose, that he either feels that issues due to humidity are overblown and/or are exaggerated or that my house is not the sort that causes problems (which doesn't make sense to me).

He thought I was nuts for thinking of Tigerwood, since I already have an oak on second floor. He feels strongly that there should be continuity in the house and that by installing anything other than oak (or something that has a similar character) upstairs would infringe upon said continuity. Although this is a terrible generalization, after walking through the house this evening, he does have a bit of a point but I think it would be possible to get away with a transition from 2nd to 3rd floor....but I am beginning to doubt the Tigerwood scenario, though I love how it looks. In any case, I had miscalculated the sq footage on 3rd floor and as a result, the $9.60/sq ft for install was putting me into the $6000 zone for a 560 sq ft total (including 6% waste). I really wasn't counting on paying that type of cash as a first time home buyer and if I had counted on it, I would have wanted to build it into my mortgage, (which my lender discouraged - I still don't know why) rather than paying for it out of my own pocket.....oh well..

Sorry for the apparent stream of consciousness post. I haven't had anything to eat all day and the glass of wine I just gulped down is encouraging my fingers to type with reckless abandon as would inebriated gums flap :lol:
I realize the Vintage website might be confusing. I will gladly forward your comment to them :)

I do agree that Vintage is the BMW or Mercedes of hardwood & Goodfellow is the exact opposite. And all Goodfellow products are made in China!!! Even though it's $1 less they still have a huge mark up on it so no wonder they are pushing a product that they can make more $$ on :rolleyes: I always talk about Vintage because the quality is top notch.

In this country you have two seasons, humid & dry & any hardwood will be affected by changes in humidity. So you have to control it with humidifier or de-humidifier. Perhaps that guy should concentrate on selling carpet not hardwood :|

I do agree on continuity of same or similar species especially if it's an open space. But if it's a totally separate floor, you can get away with it especially if you really like Tigerwood. Domestic is cheaper than exotic so if budget is an issue maybe go with oak. But don't settle for something you will not be happy with, follow your instincts ;)

BTW cheers Image
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Weber wrote:
Nov 14th, 2009 9:58 pm
The hardwood came from Quickstyle...paid like 4700 incl installation for around 550 SF of engineered walnut. Do you think that was too much?

I did contact the contractor and they said they will try to fix it by screwing the loose boards to the concrete straight from the surface... I don't think this will be a feasible option as there will be A LOT of screws all over the surface of the floor. The thing is that he cannot even guarantee that this will fix my problem.

Do you have any suggestions as to how to fix it? Also, have you seen any problems similar to mine in the past?

Hypothetically, if condo management allows nail down solution, would you recommend it? Or would you still recommend the glue solution?

Thanks
Sounds like improper installation. Tell the contractor to screw himself & have him replace the floors! Was it done through a store?
We have seen similar problems when wrong glue trowel or glue was used. It's not as simple to fix if even possible. I would not do a nail down in a condo. I would probably float or glue down 3/4" Solid Sawn Eng. Condos are dry & I don't recommend anything than engineered hardwood.
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sluggy wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 2:56 am
Hi,

I was at my folk's house over the weekend and realized that they have a crap load of unfinished hardwood in their aluminum shed. I'm thinking about using it, but since it's been in there for quite some time (probably 8 years+) I'm concerned that it's no good. It's not in any boxes, but the wood is stacked one on top of the other (not leaning against any walls). I think a mouse may have lived in the shed for a bit too while it was in there :)

What can I do to determine if it is still good? Is this a lost cause or can I salvage the flooring?
That wood is probably good as fire wood only. Even if you bring it inside the house to acclimatize, you will have extremely hard time to fit the boards together. Open a bundle or two & try if it fits together if it does, you may be in luck.
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haranzo wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 1:11 pm
hi Patrob

I am shopping for engineered flooring for my Condo and since I am tight on budget can you recommend on some of the store that you suggest? I am Newbie on this. Most likely I need to hire someone to remove my old carpet and install the new flooring. my condo is around 550 SQ/feet.

My budget is under $4500. and I am looking for hard wood engineered floors that is dark dark ash brown, mid gloss/sheen( I hope I know my colors)...
I saw some at home depot but they are expensive and the Cheap one that I kinda like was call Serenata Oak for 3.79 /SQ feet.

I was looking for Bamboo, but non of them are engineered.

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Any good eng. product will be around $5 plus. Plus installation & carpet removal. Don't forget about quarter round, underlay & possible transition pieces. So $4,500 might not be enough. How about single plank laminate, some of them look pretty realistic & will be much cheaper.
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Nov 16, 2005
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patrob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 6:06 pm
Sounds like improper installation. Tell the contractor to screw himself & have him replace the floors! Was it done through a store?
We have seen similar problems when wrong glue trowel or glue was used. It's not as simple to fix if even possible. I would not do a nail down in a condo. I would probably float or glue down 3/4" Solid Sawn Eng. Condos are dry & I don't recommend anything than engineered hardwood.
Hi Patrob,

My floor was done through an independent contractor, I don't know whether they have a store or not.

What is floating? Is it cheaper than the glue down solution?
What is solid sawn? Is it more expensive?

Thanks
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Weber wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 7:15 pm
Hi Patrob,

My floor was done through an independent contractor, I don't know whether they have a store or not.

What is floating? Is it cheaper than the glue down solution?
What is solid sawn? Is it more expensive?

Thanks
Floating floor is not attached to concrete. It's glued or clicked together plank to plank over some sort of underlay. It's cheaper than glue down. Solid Sawn is an eng. hardwood (3/4" from Vintage) which has the thickest wood veneer on the market & the base is made out of solid wood vs. multi layer ply which gives you extreme rigidity. It's so solid & heavy you can't even feel it's floated. It's slightly more expensive but you spend your money only once. If you need more info let me know.
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I bought an older townhome (approx 35 years old), ripped up the old, disgusting carpeting and low and behold it had hardwood floors. However, there are areas where there is paint splatter. Other than paying thousands to refinish the floors, is there a way to remove the paint splatter?

Also, there are a few areas which have noticeable scratches - can you spot treat areas, or do you have to refinish the entire floor?

Lastly, if I wanted to change the color of the stain, can I do it if I have to refinish anyways?

As you can tell I have zero experience in hardwood floors so be gentle with your reply :) No such thing as a stupid question and all that....
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taylyn wrote:
Nov 16th, 2009 10:13 am
I bought an older townhome (approx 35 years old), ripped up the old, disgusting carpeting and low and behold it had hardwood floors. However, there are areas where there is paint splatter. Other than paying thousands to refinish the floors, is there a way to remove the paint splatter?

Also, there are a few areas which have noticeable scratches - can you spot treat areas, or do you have to refinish the entire floor?

Lastly, if I wanted to change the color of the stain, can I do it if I have to refinish anyways?

As you can tell I have zero experience in hardwood floors so be gentle with your reply :) No such thing as a stupid question and all that....
Don't worry, we're very gentle ;)

Sounds like you will need to have the floors re-sanded, the paint most likely will not come off easily plus you will get rid off all the dents & scratches. Once finished you will have brand new floors for fraction of the cost. Depending how many times the floor has been re-sanded, you can re-stain the floors to any colour most of the time. A floor re-finisher will be better able to tell you what can be done.
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Sep 5, 2003
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I have 5” Vintage Orinoco Solid Sawn hardwood that is about a year old. Unfortunately, due to my ineptitude, the top layer has been scratched by hard plastic chairs... the scratches aren't deep, but there is a significant colour differentiation.

It's almost as though the varnish has come off.

My question is how I can fix this or at least minimize the colour differences in the most cost-effective manner. Do I have to sand/re-finish the whole floor?
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Nov 22, 2003
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patrob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 5:56 pm
I realize the Vintage website might be confusing. I will gladly forward your comment to them :)
Thanks! :) I'm sure they will be impressed and will offer me a 50 cent/sq ft rebate?!!!?? :lol:

patrob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 5:56 pm
I do agree that Vintage is the BMW or Mercedes of hardwood & Goodfellow is the exact opposite. And all Goodfellow products are made in China!!! Even though it's $1 less they still have a huge mark up on it so no wonder they are pushing a product that they can make more $$ on :rolleyes: I always talk about Vintage because the quality is top notch.

In this country you have two seasons, humid & dry & any hardwood will be affected by changes in humidity. So you have to control it with humidifier or de-humidifier. Perhaps that guy should concentrate on selling carpet not hardwood :|
You are right, of course. I just wished you had been there to respond intelligently to his musings. I am too green to do so, although I pretended to be very knowledgeable :cheesygri
patrob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2009 5:56 pm
I do agree on continuity of same or similar species especially if it's an open space. But if it's a totally separate floor, you can get away with it especially if you really like Tigerwood. Domestic is cheaper than exotic so if budget is an issue maybe go with oak. But don't settle for something you will not be happy with, follow your instincts ;)

BTW cheers Image
I still do like Tigerwood but in order to avoid issues with imperfect humidity, I have been looking for alternatives. Something with character, preferably hard (but that is not entirely necessary) and domestic. I think I've found it; in fact you have mentioned it on a number of occasions throughout this thread:

Hickory

Not only do I like it as a practical alternative, I think I am actually falling in love with it. Perhaps it just the pictures you have provided as examples but I find it to be exotic it its own right and although the available stains are beautiful, from what I am seeing, natural hickory is stunning! Do you happen to have any pics of completed installs in Vintage natural hickory?

Image
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slaman wrote:
Nov 16th, 2009 6:29 pm
I have 5” Vintage Orinoco Solid Sawn hardwood that is about a year old. Unfortunately, due to my ineptitude, the top layer has been scratched by hard plastic chairs... the scratches aren't deep, but there is a significant colour differentiation.

It's almost as though the varnish has come off.

My question is how I can fix this or at least minimize the colour differences in the most cost-effective manner. Do I have to sand/re-finish the whole floor?
Your installer should have advised you about getting felt protectors under all furniture pieces that go on the floor :idea:

There is really no way to fix it without removing those damaged boards. You can get a touch up kit in the matching colour & try to hide it with that. If your floor is floated you cannot re-finish it.
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txenglan wrote:
Nov 16th, 2009 9:06 pm
Thanks! :) I'm sure they will be impressed and will offer me a 50 cent/sq ft rebate?!!!?? :lol:

You are right, of course. I just wished you had been there to respond intelligently to his musings. I am too green to do so, although I pretended to be very knowledgeable :cheesygri

I still do like Tigerwood but in order to avoid issues with imperfect humidity, I have been looking for alternatives. Something with character, preferably hard (but that is not entirely necessary) and domestic. I think I've found it; in fact you have mentioned it on a number of occasions throughout this thread:

Hickory

Not only do I like it as a practical alternative, I think I am actually falling in love with it. Perhaps it just the pictures you have provided as examples but I find it to be exotic it its own right and although the available stains are beautiful, from what I am seeing, natural hickory is stunning! Do you happen to have any pics of completed installs in Vintage natural hickory?

Image
Unfortunately I don't have any pics but you are right, Hickory in Character grade will have a lot of variation & it's something that you are looking for. Plus the grain of Hickory is similar to oak.

Here is one pic I found on their website Natural Hickory Select-V grade

Image
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