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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

[OP]
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Brampton
buyways wrote:
Dec 4th, 2007 5:04 pm
We just bought a place from lady with a standard poodle who did a number with his claws on the hardwood floors (floor age unknown, house is 100 years old).

Is there some polishing/cleaner-type product you would recommend, or am I likely to need to sand?

If I do decide to sand, how strong/coordinated do I need to be to handle one of those monsters I've seen on TV? (bad images of me taking out walls, flying out front door into traffic, etc)

Is there a refinishing company you recommend for the GTA?
More likely you have to sand, since nothing will cover scratches. If you never touched a floor sander, then don't do it yourself. You can cause yourself & the floors a lot of damage, including your walls :lol:

Where are you located & what kind of floors do you have :?:
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Nice thread

Is there a good spot in the West GTA for seeing a good selection of engineered hardwood floors?
[OP]
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frogger wrote:
Dec 4th, 2007 10:06 pm
Nice thread

Is there a good spot in the West GTA for seeing a good selection of engineered hardwood floors?
Thanks :)

For engineered try these two places, they have some areas of the showroom done in real engineered hardwood, so you can see it in real life.

www.Stansflooring.com
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We have this T moulding which was put in after hardwood floors were done (installer pretend to not know what it was when we went and asked why the carpet - hardwood floor had no transition - they offered to sand down the end of the hardwood floor to 'make it smooth' :!: - we refused)

Later they finally got the T moulding, but now had to be nailed from the top in between the floors, but in 2 pieces since one piece could not be spanned across the whole length.

(top view)

carpet
_______ __

floor

line represents the t moulding.
problem now is that the moulding (1st piece) has popped out (indicated by the space), and it has split from at T section underneath.



Can I just renail that in or should I apply some kind of adhesive underneath the broken off piece.. then fill poxy for the gap of the 2 pieces?


Thanks
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Mar 9, 2006
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hi patrob,

my wife and I just bought a new home from plans and the builder wants to charge us between $14-$17 /sq.ft. to install 3 1/4" x 3/4" Mirage planks.

If you were in our shoes, would you have the builder install standard carpet and then rip it out to install the Mirage flooring by a third party or is it worth the convenience to have the builder install it at that price?

The rooms are standard straight edge rooms but I'm thinking that at the very most, I'd have them do the upper hallway as well as stain the oak stairs to match. What do you think?

Great topic! (and timely too!)

mrvedder
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belfour wrote:
Dec 4th, 2007 10:33 pm
Can I just renail that in or should I apply some kind of adhesive underneath the broken off piece.. then fill poxy for the gap of the 2 pieces?
Yes, use glue & then nail. But pre-drill before the nail goes in if you are doing it by hand. Use coulour matching filler (HD sells them) to fill in the gap.
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mrvedder wrote:
Dec 5th, 2007 12:44 am
my wife and I just bought a new home from plans and the builder wants to charge us between $14-$17 /sq.ft. to install 3 1/4" x 3/4" Mirage planks.

If you were in our shoes, would you have the builder install standard carpet and then rip it out to install the Mirage flooring by a third party or is it worth the convenience to have the builder install it at that price?

The rooms are standard straight edge rooms but I'm thinking that at the very most, I'd have them do the upper hallway as well as stain the oak stairs to match. What do you think?

Great topic! (and timely too!)
Don't go through the builder if you can, you can save yourself lots of money this way. Just take standard carpets & you take them out after closing & can re-use them in the basement if you want.

It's too much money IMO to pay for that convenience, unless you're rich of course :D

If you know what type of stain colour you want to get, just ask the builder to stain stairs in that colour & then you just match the floors to it with no problems, even if you go to a diff. manufacturer, they often have similar colours.
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Jan 17, 2002
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Hey mrvedder,

Are you buying a Baywood home as well? I am in the exact same dilemma. Do I pay the outrageous price they are asking? Or just rip up the carpet and put it in my basement and pay someone after the fact. My concerns are.

1.Will the wood floor and tile be flush or one higher than the other?
2. We are getting the builder to install maple stairs with a runner. If we get someone to install wood floors after the fact are they going to be able to install them alongside the wood stair case at the top and bottom of the stairs and have them fit perfectly? We have already paid for the nosing on the upper part of the stairs in anticipation of having someone install it after the fact.
3. We have paid for an upgraded baseboards should I have the builder not install them and then install them after the wood floors are in? Does that matter?

Are there any other concerns I need to think about? Is there really an advantage to having the builder install the wood flooring versus a contractor? Warranty possibly?

I am getting the Maple Sierra from Mirage flooring
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leafs wrote:
Dec 5th, 2007 8:49 am
1.Will the wood floor and tile be flush or one higher than the other?
2. We are getting the builder to install maple stairs with a runner. If we get someone to install wood floors after the fact are they going to be able to install them alongside the wood stair case at the top and bottom of the stairs and have them fit perfectly? We have already paid for the nosing on the upper part of the stairs in anticipation of having someone install it after the fact.
3. We have paid for an upgraded baseboards should I have the builder not install them and then install them after the wood floors are in? Does that matter?

Are there any other concerns I need to think about? Is there really an advantage to having the builder install the wood flooring versus a contractor? Warranty possibly?

I am getting the Maple Sierra from Mirage flooring
Let me answer some of you questions:

1. Even if you take hardwood from the builder, tile guys will install tiles their way regardless if you have hardwood or carpet. So no matter who does the wood floors, they will have to use a reducer to make it flush.
2. Yes, no problems everything will be perfectly flush to the stairs & nosings.
3. The trim installers will be installing the baseboards before any flooring is done & they usually leave a 1/2" gap from the plywood, unless you specifically tell them to make it higher. Since they don't know if you will have hardwood or carpet they have to leave a min. space & the max. you would loose on your baseboards is 1/4".

The biggest advantage of doing floors with the builder is the convenience & people feel 'safe' that there is warranty. But if you get a good installer & good wood, there should not be any problems. And even if you have to replace a board or two, the installer will come back & fix it.

But be careful who you choose, since there are some that don't care about the quality of the workmanship, that just want to make a quick buck & leave quick :idea: If you need a recommendation, let me know ;)
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Mar 9, 2006
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leafs wrote:
Dec 5th, 2007 8:49 am
Hey mrvedder,

Are you buying a Baywood home as well? I am in the exact same dilemma. Do I pay the outrageous price they are asking? Or just rip up the carpet and put it in my basement and pay someone after the fact. My concerns are.

1.Will the wood floor and tile be flush or one higher than the other?
2. We are getting the builder to install maple stairs with a runner. If we get someone to install wood floors after the fact are they going to be able to install them alongside the wood stair case at the top and bottom of the stairs and have them fit perfectly? We have already paid for the nosing on the upper part of the stairs in anticipation of having someone install it after the fact.
3. We have paid for an upgraded baseboards should I have the builder not install them and then install them after the wood floors are in? Does that matter?

Are there any other concerns I need to think about? Is there really an advantage to having the builder install the wood flooring versus a contractor? Warranty possibly?

I am getting the Maple Sierra from Mirage flooring
Hi leafs,

We're buying a Great Gulf home but I'll bet you and I are not the only ones thinking this way. I'm definitely getting the oak staircase with runner from the builder and they use Mirage as their hardwood upgrade so I'm also fighting with the idea that I pay them to put in the upper hallway hardwood - that way, I can get my own installer to put in the same Mirage hardwood downstairs in the "regular" shaped rooms - my upper hallway is neither straight nor regular.

My next steps are to check out Darmaga for Mirage h/w pricing and ballpark installation at $2/sq.ft.
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When refinishing an old Oak floor, is it necessary to remove all the old material?

Like the nooks and crannies when dealing with an old floor?
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B0000rt wrote:
Dec 5th, 2007 5:19 pm
When refinishing an old Oak floor, is it necessary to remove all the old material?

Like the nooks and crannies when dealing with an old floor?
When refinishing floors, 100% of old varnish has to be removed to ensure proper adhesion of the new varnish.
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patrob wrote:
Dec 4th, 2007 9:27 pm
More likely you have to sand, since nothing will cover scratches. If you never touched a floor sander, then don't do it yourself. You can cause yourself & the floors a lot of damage, including your walls :lol:

Where are you located & what kind of floors do you have :?:
Thanks for the advice!

High potential for damage you say - that's what I was afraid of. Guess I'll have to vent my pent up reno urges elsewhere.

I'm located in Leslieville in the GTA, and I don't know what floors I have (I can almost tell you more about the specs of the $100 mp3 player I bought last month than the $400,000 house - I think I read the average buyer spends 18 minutes in a house before buying it - crazy markets!).

I'm pretty sure they're actually wood, not laminate, and not pine, or at least not pine subflooring as we saw in some houses (though that's nice too).

A picture of the floor is here, if it helps:
http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/14 ... 0.jpg.html
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buyways wrote:
Dec 8th, 2007 11:15 am
I'm pretty sure they're actually wood, not laminate, and not pine, or at least not pine subflooring as we saw in some houses (though that's nice too).

A picture of the floor is here, if it helps:
http://www.imagehosting.com/show.php/14 ... 0.jpg.html
From the pic it looks like red oak in a rich oak (gunstock) finish. If you can zoom in on the actual floor & make it larger, then I can see it better.

For sure it's real wood not laminate...
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Mar 16, 2004
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foresbec , how are their hardwood floor products?

satin finish , i hear it's one of the best, true? false?

BTW. roughly how much does it cost per sqft to refinish old site-finished hardwood?

thanks!

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