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Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 21st, 2011 6:57 pm
by patrob
JustBob wrote:
Feb 21st, 2011 6:44 pm
Thanks, I assume this would work:

http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index ... R-I2530929

Yes something like this. Don't forget to tape the seams.

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 21st, 2011 7:04 pm
by patrob
DipSheet2 wrote:
Feb 21st, 2011 2:41 pm
I have a site finished oak hardwood floor in my kitchen. Over time, things have dropped on the floor and made some dents in it. It has a dark stain, finished with oil based polyurethane.

I saw the Wood Doctor Hardwood Floor Repair kit online for $289.00, anyone here used it before? Is it worth the money?

I plan on selling the house soon and would like to fix some of the more obvious dings. Other than the dings the floor is in very good condition.

Thanks

$300 for a touch up kit - NO! Just go to your local flooring store or even Home Depot & pick up a touch up marker with a wax stick & that should do. You cannot touch up areas where the finish is not disturbed (to bare wood). Nothing will stick to the urethane. Dings will always be visible & sometimes it's better not to touch them at all.

Thank you, and one more question

Posted: Feb 23rd, 2011 3:13 pm
by solid
patrob wrote:
Jan 30th, 2011 2:40 pm
Cracks are probably due to humidity which is for the homeowner to control. Chips on edges most of the time are due to low grade of wood, careless installer or sometimes floors being washed with excessive water & lifts up the edges of the finish. Knots are due to lower grade of the wood. Of course this should have been pointed out at your PDI or year end inspection & some of it could be fixed by the builder depends on circumstances. Staples should not be visible anywhere!
Thank you very much, now I have a different question: I am not sure if they installed in my house Mirage floor (standard Mirage, as per contract) or Foxwood, which I believe is a cheaper version of Mirage. Is there a way to tell a difference (besides looking at the box, which does not give any proof as boxes can be replaced)? Note that boards have stamps at the bottom, but I don't know how to read them... If this is possible, how can I hire an independent inspector to have a certified statement?

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 23rd, 2011 11:12 pm
by patrob
solid wrote:
Feb 23rd, 2011 3:13 pm
Thank you very much, now I have a different question: I am not sure if they installed in my house Mirage floor (standard Mirage, as per contract) or Foxwood, which I believe is a cheaper version of Mirage. Is there a way to tell a difference (besides looking at the box, which does not give any proof as boxes can be replaced)? Note that boards have stamps at the bottom, but I don't know how to read them... If this is possible, how can I hire an independent inspector to have a certified statement?

Mirage stamp says "BOA FRANC". If "Foxwood" (never seen it) has the same stamp, it might be very hard to prove the difference.
Unless you have spare boards or remove some boards of your existing floor, possibly in a closet & send it for testing to an independent lab
or maybe Mirage will be able to tell you what it is exactly especially if it's their product.

The stamp should look something like this

Image

Two more follow-up questions

Posted: Feb 24th, 2011 9:51 am
by solid
patrob wrote:
Feb 23rd, 2011 11:12 pm
Mirage stamp says "BOA FRANC". If "Foxwood" (never seen it) has the same stamp, it might be very hard to prove the difference.
Unless you have spare boards or remove some boards of your existing floor, possibly in a closet & send it for testing to an independent lab
or maybe Mirage will be able to tell you what it is exactly especially if it's their product.

The stamp should look something like this

Image

Thank you! They left spare boards with stamps resembling what you showed but saying "SENC" rather than "INC"... The (open) box left says Mirage "Select or better" but a box is a poor proof.
Would you know how to find an independent inspector in Ottawa (independent from Barwood, etc.)?

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 24th, 2011 8:29 pm
by patrob
solid wrote:
Feb 24th, 2011 9:51 am
Thank you! They left spare boards with stamps resembling what you showed but saying "SENC" rather than "INC"... The (open) box left says Mirage "Select or better" but a box is a poor proof.
Would you know how to find an independent inspector in Ottawa (independent from Barwood, etc.)?

You should call Mirage first & explain the problem. Maybe they can send their rep to take a look.

Here you can find a NWFA Certified Wood Flooring Inspector:
http://www.nwfacp.org/findCp.aspx

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 24th, 2011 10:07 pm
by lvxihan
Hi Patrob,

This nailer will be half price at CT this week...can I use it to install the first and last couple of rows? I am not sure if it is the right product for hardwood flooring DIY...thanks

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6 ... ?locale=en

Old floor removal?

Posted: Feb 25th, 2011 5:47 pm
by quick72toy
Older home, and my floor is very old and damaged, as well as not level. It was recommended to me to remove the old floor before installing the new one. I'm trying to decide if I want to DIY or farm it out.
So, I'm looking for first hand experiences on old hardwood floor removal. If you have done it, please share any feelings about doing it. How much dust was generated? Time it took, and size of area? Tips, do's and dont's, Stuff you would have done, (now that you know better :) ) etc.

Thanks

BTW There is no plywood subfloor, just planks beneath the old floor.

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 25th, 2011 10:19 pm
by patrob
lvxihan wrote:
Feb 24th, 2011 10:07 pm
Hi Patrob,

This nailer will be half price at CT this week...can I use it to install the first and last couple of rows? I am not sure if it is the right product for hardwood flooring DIY...thanks

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6 ... ?locale=en

I don't recommend buying that nailer. Nailer will be cheap but the nails are expensive! The angle nails are $40 for approx. 3,500 nails, where straight 16 gauge nails are $7 for 2,500 nails :idea: Because the nails are so thick, I don't recommend using them for trim, etc.

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 25th, 2011 10:28 pm
by patrob
quick72toy wrote:
Feb 25th, 2011 5:47 pm
Older home, and my floor is very old and damaged, as well as not level. It was recommended to me to remove the old floor before installing the new one. I'm trying to decide if I want to DIY or farm it out.
So, I'm looking for first hand experiences on old hardwood floor removal. If you have done it, please share any feelings about doing it. How much dust was generated? Time it took, and size of area? Tips, do's and dont's, Stuff you would have done, (now that you know better :) ) etc.

Thanks

BTW There is no plywood subfloor, just planks beneath the old floor.

Old floors should be removed to eliminate all squeaks & properly fix the sub-floor. To remove it (it's probably old 3/8" strip) cut it with a skill saw to approx. 4 ft. sections. Remove the floors with pry bar/crowbar & then remove all the nails. Re-screw the plank sub-floor with 2 screws per plank on joist. Approx. 1" from the edge. To minimize the dust, plastic off the area. 400 sq. ft. should take you approx. 1 weekend. If you don't feel like doing the work, contract it out. By pros, it should be done in 1 day.

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 25th, 2011 11:20 pm
by markan
patrob wrote:
Feb 25th, 2011 10:28 pm
Old floors should be removed to eliminate all squeaks & properly fix the sub-floor. To remove it (it's probably old 3/8" strip) cut it with a skill saw to approx. 4 ft. sections. Remove the floors with pry bar/crowbar & then remove all the nails. Re-screw the plank sub-floor with 2 screws per plank on joist. Approx. 1" from the edge. To minimize the dust, plastic off the area. 400 sq. ft. should take you approx. 1 weekend. If you don't feel like doing the work, contract it out. By pros, it should be done in 1 day.

Hi, patrob,

could you please pm me you recomd. contractor to me?

my home at mississauga, 1000 sqft need new hardwood floor and 15 stairs

any idea price to remove the old hardwood and make sub floor level?

Thanks

Mark

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 26th, 2011 12:32 am
by Derek_1
A very helpful thread! Can anyone recommend at good 'one-stop' shop in the GTA that has the major brands for engineered flooring; Vintage/Torly's etc and is the most price competitive?

I always thought Torly's was the top brand for engineered flooring never even considered Vintage, any opinions on one or the other?

Thanks!

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 26th, 2011 2:18 pm
by patrob
Derek_1 wrote:
Feb 26th, 2011 12:32 am
A very helpful thread! Can anyone recommend at good 'one-stop' shop in the GTA that has the major brands for engineered flooring; Vintage/Torly's etc and is the most price competitive?

I always thought Torly's was the top brand for engineered flooring never even considered Vintage, any opinions on one or the other?

Thanks!

Torlys is more of a DIY engineered hardwood. Most of their products if not all are Uniclic Lock. Where Vintage carries 3 diff. types of engineered; two of them tongue & groove & one U-Lock from 1/2" to 3/4". Over a wooden sub-floor I recommend Vintage nail down tongue & groove. If it's a basement or condo you can go either way. Some stores might carry both manufacturers but every store will have diff. prices.

Fumed oak question

Posted: Feb 27th, 2011 7:57 am
by Steve17
Hi Patrob,
We recently installed Vintage fumed oak old oak in our main floor. I would now like to match the existing hardwood stairs to the new floor and was wondering what brand of stain you used in your installs to match the fumed oak flooring? Did you use the stain provided by Vintage or did you just stain match? I love my new floor but the stairs have a red tone that just doesn't work.

I appreciate any help you can give me.

Re: The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Posted: Feb 27th, 2011 7:08 pm
by patrob
Steve17 wrote:
Feb 27th, 2011 7:57 am
Hi Patrob,
We recently installed Vintage fumed oak old oak in our main floor. I would now like to match the existing hardwood stairs to the new floor and was wondering what brand of stain you used in your installs to match the fumed oak flooring? Did you use the stain provided by Vintage or did you just stain match? I love my new floor but the stairs have a red tone that just doesn't work.

I appreciate any help you can give me.

You have to custom match the stain. Take few pieces of your flooring to a paint store & they'll know what to do.
Don't forget to tell them what wood it is going on (raw or previously stained, etc.)