Unless you have spare boards or remove some boards of your existing floor, possibly in a closet & send it for testing to an independent lab
or maybe Mirage will be able to tell you what it is exactly especially if it's their product.
The stamp should look something like this
Would you know how to find an independent inspector in Ottawa (independent from Barwood, etc.)?
Here you can find a NWFA Certified Wood Flooring Inspector:
This nailer will be half price at CT this week...can I use it to install the first and last couple of rows? I am not sure if it is the right product for hardwood flooring DIY...thanks
Older home, and my floor is very old and damaged, as well as not level. It was recommended to me to remove the old floor before installing the new one. I'm trying to decide if I want to DIY or farm it out.
So, I'm looking for first hand experiences on old hardwood floor removal. If you have done it, please share any feelings about doing it. How much dust was generated? Time it took, and size of area? Tips, do's and dont's, Stuff you would have done, (now that you know better :) ) etc.
BTW There is no plywood subfloor, just planks beneath the old floor.
A very helpful thread! Can anyone recommend at good 'one-stop' shop in the GTA that has the major brands for engineered flooring; Vintage/Torly's etc and is the most price competitive?
I always thought Torly's was the top brand for engineered flooring never even considered Vintage, any opinions on one or the other?
We recently installed Vintage fumed oak old oak in our main floor. I would now like to match the existing hardwood stairs to the new floor and was wondering what brand of stain you used in your installs to match the fumed oak flooring? Did you use the stain provided by Vintage or did you just stain match? I love my new floor but the stairs have a red tone that just doesn't work.
I appreciate any help you can give me.