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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Newbie
Jun 15, 2008
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Whitby
Here are the pictures: :lol:

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/3083/dsc02570wt9.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6203/dsc02569lp2.jpg

Rexie wrote:
Jun 16th, 2008 11:49 pm
I'm about ready to start my first hardwood flooring project. I'm relatively handy but haven't worked much with flooring and/or baseboards. My main level has original builder's carpet with about 3" high thin (approx. 1/4") baseboards throughout. Is it strongly recommended to remove these baseboards once the carpet is up (for future reinstallation above the carpet) or is just installing 1/4 round on top of the new 3/4" flooring OK? A picture of a typical corner is attached.

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2008 Hardwood\DSC02570.JPG[/IMG]

Also there is one tricky area around the bottom of my stairs that the hardwood must interface with (picture attached). Any ideas/tricks on how to make this area look its best?

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\My Documents\My Pictures\2008 Hardwood\DSC02569.JPG[/IMG]
[OP]
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Brampton
Rexie wrote:
Jun 16th, 2008 11:49 pm
I'm about ready to start my first hardwood flooring project. I'm relatively handy but haven't worked much with flooring and/or baseboards. My main level has original builder's carpet with about 3" high thin (approx. 1/4") baseboards throughout. Is it strongly recommended to remove these baseboards once the carpet is up (for future reinstallation above the carpet) or is just installing 1/4 round on top of the new 3/4" flooring OK? A picture of a typical corner is attached.

Also there is one tricky area around the bottom of my stairs that the hardwood must interface with (picture attached). Any ideas/tricks on how to make this area look its best?
You don't need to remove the baseboards, unless you really want to. That's what quarter rounds are for ;)

Around the stairs, you have to shape the planks to the shape of the stairs as tight as possible.
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dgmorr wrote:
Jun 17th, 2008 11:12 am
I have railings exactly like this. How do I remove them? Looks like they go 'into' the tread. How are they anchored?
They are not anchored at the bottom, only the metal strip is holding it. Remove your handrail, unscrew the screws holding the pickets, remove the metal rail & wiggle the pickets around while pulling it out slowly. They should come out easily.
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Feb 6, 2002
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Hey Patrob, another question about HW installs. I have a home that's open concept with many rooms opened between each other. If I have 45 degree diagonal HW installed will it look like one big piece? or will the installer have to break up the rooms?
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mavvee wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 10:40 am
Hey Patrob, another question about HW installs. I have a home that's open concept with many rooms opened between each other. If I have 45 degree diagonal HW installed will it look like one big piece? or will the installer have to break up the rooms?
Yes, it should all be installed in one direction, no need to break up the rooms.
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patrob wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 11:20 am
Yes, it should all be installed in one direction, no need to break up the rooms.
Patrob, if I have three seperate rooms connected by a hallway and each room has an opening, the installer should be able to make it all seemless without a break? Amazing! The rooms aren't wide open so there is a bit of an opening and wall on each room. I'm wondering how they can install backwards to accomodate going behind the wall? Do you know what I'm trying to explain?
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mavvee wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 11:32 am
Patrob, if I have three seperate rooms connected by a hallway and each room has an opening, the installer should be able to make it all seemless without a break? Amazing! The rooms aren't wide open so there is a bit of an opening and wall on each room. I'm wondering how they can install backwards to accomodate going behind the wall? Do you know what I'm trying to explain?
It's easy for somebody who knows how it's supposed to be done ;) If you are questioning yourself about the installer who will do your floors, you
should seriously reconsider before it's too late.

Also when installing on 45 deg. it's easy to loose the line, so the installer has to be more careful on longer distances. Especially when nailing the edges on open
angle, he might end up with a 'bow' line.
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Anonymouse wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 10:11 pm
My builder is proposing to charge $11.75/sf for 2 1/4" unstained maple. Do you think I could get Vintage 3 1/4" white oak for a cheaper price?
Yes for sure you can get Vintage stained pre-finished for cheaper. Where are you located?
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Anonymouse wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 10:26 pm
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm in Kingston, ON
There is 1 Vintage dealer in Kingston as shown on the Vintage website, so give them a call. There are also 2 dealers in Oshawa & 1 in Peterborough, so might be worth the drive if they don't give you a good price. How many sq. ft. are you looking for?
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Anonymouse wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 10:42 pm
House is 2136 sq ft and we want to do all the principal rooms and hallways. The builder wants $14500 for this.
Will the builder allow you to close the house with no floor covering (ie: carpet) ? Do you have a link to your floor plan? You can PM it to me & I will calculate how much wood you will need :)
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Sr. Member
Jan 28, 2003
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Markham
We are getting 3 1/4 Vintage Estate - Pewter Red Oak hardwood floors with out builder.

the entire 2nd floor is going to cost $11,232 plus GST.
Approx 1133 sq ft of hardwood on the second floor so approx $10 plus GST a sq ft.

sounds like a lot but for that grade flooring and the sq ft even Patrob's husband said its cheap!!
he could not understand why it is so cheap for that grade wood???

i called a few places who sell vintage in Markham and got quotes for the wood alone from $6.75 to $8 plus gst for wood alone.
then add in install($1.75-$2.50 a sq ft), and quarter round ($0.50-$1 a ft) and its not much cheaper to do on my own if not more expensive.

i save the time in ripping out the carpets but i lose the carpets going through the builder.
but its the hassle i like and the fact the wood is warrantied with tarion and the house.

thanks for the help Patrob!
your husband is a super nice guy and very helpful!!!!
Sandviper
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sandviper wrote:
Jun 18th, 2008 10:52 pm
We are getting 3 1/4 Vintage Estate - Pewter Red Oak hardwood floors with out builder.

the entire 2nd floor is going to cost $11,232 plus GST.
Approx 1133 sq ft of hardwood on the second floor so approx $10 plus GST a sq ft.

sounds like a lot but for that grade flooring and the sq ft even Patrob's husband said its cheap!!
he could not understand why it is so cheap for that grade wood???

i called a few places who sell vintage in Markham and got quotes for the wood alone from $6.75 to $8 plus gst for wood alone.
then add in install($1.75-$2.50 a sq ft), and quarter round ($0.50-$1 a ft) and its not much cheaper to do on my own if not more expensive.

i save the time in ripping out the carpets but i lose the carpets going through the builder.
but its the hassle i like and the fact the wood is warrantied with tarion and the house.

thanks for the help Patrob!
your husband is a super nice guy and very helpful!!!!

Sandon
Thanks, Sandon ;)

The price you got from the builder is really good so of course you want to go with them.

Just be careful with Tarion & hardwood, they have guidelines they go by & stick to it. Make sure all scratches/damages, etc. are noted on your PDI list :!: If you visit your house while hardwood is installed or after, make sure you have your camera with you & take pics (through windows) if you see any mess on the floors.

Good luck :)
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Jul 23, 2006
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Toronto
Well. I am almost ready to start my 3/4" kempas hardwood project, i've purchased everything i need so far besides the flooring nailer, and nails.

Any suggestions on what kind of nailer i should buy, and what size nails, or cleats, staples, etc?

Thanks,
Sr. Member
Jan 28, 2003
983 posts
149 upvotes
Markham
unless you are going to be doing other ppls or more flooring or want to span it out over time its better and cheaper to rent one from HD or RONA.

the ones they use are comercial grade nailers and work better.

and cheaper since you only renting it for likek $40-50 a day...im guess but it cant be that much.

thats my thoughts and my friends have just rented it since a nailer is not an essential tool like a drill where you can use often to recoup the cost.

hope that helps...and this is only my humble opinion and some will say its not worth it to rent and have other opinions so listen to all the replies so you can make an educated decision.
Sandviper

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