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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Newbie
Sep 9, 2004
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Durham
What should I use to finish the edge perimeter on 2nd floor? I have laminate flooring. thank you
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Brampton
animex wrote:
Jul 29th, 2008 5:43 am
What should I use to finish the edge perimeter on 2nd floor? I have laminate flooring. thank you
Depends how big the gap is? You could use 3/8" door stop style quarter round, some sort of shoe mould or plain 1/2" or 3/4" quarter round.
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irisray wrote:
Jul 29th, 2008 12:48 am
Hi Patrob:

Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely check out the walnut monarch. It looks similar in darkness to the red oak mocha with maybe more reddish to it? I like the colour of the mocha - have you ever seen this laid? I want something that will look elegant. Perhaps it looks elegant when you see a whole room of it, very hard to tell from the samples.

I called vintage today re the natural walnut and they kindly referred me to a subdivision where the sales office and several homes had it laid. Individual boards looked beautiful, but overall it was more choppy a look than I'm going for.

Thank you.
Actually my husband is now installing Chariot which is very similar to Mocha. Very popular colours & very elegant. What about solid sawn engineered in Walnut, which is perfect for a condo & would def. help resolve your uneven sub-floor problem. The boards are longer, more rigid, perfectly straight which will def. give you a better feel.
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Sr. Member
Jul 13, 2003
557 posts
19 upvotes
how much do ppl usually charge to wax the floors? 600sq per floor. 2 floors total.

tks
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Jul 23, 2006
579 posts
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Toronto
Just saw tonight that Home Depot has the Campbell Hausfield cleat nailer on sale for $199. I purchased this cleat nailer from Canadian Tire a couple months back, and have had great success with it! Even comes with some cleat, staples, and and rubber mallet..

[IMG]http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/cat ... 99_500.jpg[/IMG]
Jr. Member
Nov 4, 2007
119 posts
10 upvotes
Hi everyone,

Looking for some good pictures of parkay/parquet flooring that has been finished or refinished using a dark stain.

Moved into an older home that has this flooring and have heard that it looks great when its very dark.

Any pictures you can provide would be great!

Thanks,
Glen
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wiifreak wrote:
Jul 30th, 2008 11:35 am
how much for the laminate that would consider as cheap?
Anything below $1 sq. ft. is considered cheap.
Kongee wrote:
Jul 30th, 2008 3:15 pm
how much do ppl usually charge to wax the floors? 600sq per floor. 2 floors total.

tks
To be honest, don't really know.
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fukngrvn wrote:
Jul 30th, 2008 10:19 pm
Hi everyone,

Looking for some good pictures of parkay/parquet flooring that has been finished or refinished using a dark stain.

Moved into an older home that has this flooring and have heard that it looks great when its very dark.

Any pictures you can provide would be great!

Thanks,
Glen
Don't have any pics but if the parquet floor is in good shape you can re-sand & a dark stain will look good.
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Newbie
Feb 22, 2006
6 posts
Pickering/Toronto
we'relooking for either a place to buy maple select and better hardwood who will also install and stain/paint our oak staircase.

we're looking at mercier mystic brown or mirage in earl gray. any thoughts??
we're specific on the colour it has to be that greyish/brownish colour. more grey than brown. we'd also like the nosings, steps and handrail stained, but the risers painted in white. we have metal pickets.

any recommendations? the best price i got for mercier is $5.35/sq ft but i'm unsure how much mirage will set us back. we also contemplated on three towers flooring maple select and better for $4.86/sq ft, but they don't stain/paint staircases.

some places are also charging "premiums" for difficult areas such as upper hallways. and i'm also getting charged for flush mount vents and transitions pieces... What's a reasonable amount to be charged for these for the lack of a better word, accessories??

any thoughts patrob?

pm. or email me aml716@gmail.com.
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Feb 7, 2005
1266 posts
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Toronto
hi patrob,

thanks for being so deligent in replying to this thread.

i recently purchased a house which hardwood floors (wide stained pine planks on one floor and narrow unfinished oak on another floor) but they have been nailed through the top.

the nails pop up and the floor squeeks and the oak strips need to be sanded and stained. are there any options available to save these floors and stop the nail pops or do i have to replace them?

thanks!
=============
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aml716 wrote:
Jul 31st, 2008 11:35 pm
we'relooking for either a place to buy maple select and better hardwood who will also install and stain/paint our oak staircase.

we're looking at mercier mystic brown or mirage in earl gray. any thoughts??
we're specific on the colour it has to be that greyish/brownish colour. more grey than brown. we'd also like the nosings, steps and handrail stained, but the risers painted in white. we have metal pickets.

any recommendations? the best price i got for mercier is $5.35/sq ft but i'm unsure how much mirage will set us back. we also contemplated on three towers flooring maple select and better for $4.86/sq ft, but they don't stain/paint staircases.

some places are also charging "premiums" for difficult areas such as upper hallways. and i'm also getting charged for flush mount vents and transitions pieces... What's a reasonable amount to be charged for these for the lack of a better word, accessories??

any thoughts patrob?
Maple is more expensive from domestic species. And for some reason the gray/pewter colours are even more. Still nobody knows about Three Towers, so cannot help you on that. Mirage is more expensive than Mercier but I am sure it is a better product.

How about Vintage Slate colour? It should be a bit less than Mirage but equal or better. On Vintage website the Maple Slate pic does not show its true colour.

Yes, some stores will charge you extra for upper hall because it does take more time. Flush-mount vents, of course they would be extra, they usually come unfinished & have to be stained & varnished to match plus little extra to install. Reducers/transition pieces are around $50 plus (depending on length). But they can easily be made from the wood installed & IMO they look better than the manufactured reducers.

PM me with more details & I will be more than happy to help you :)
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johnsmithy wrote:
Aug 1st, 2008 3:33 pm
hi patrob,

thanks for being so deligent in replying to this thread.

i recently purchased a house which hardwood floors (wide stained pine planks on one floor and narrow unfinished oak on another floor) but they have been nailed through the top.

the nails pop up and the floor squeeks and the oak strips need to be sanded and stained. are there any options available to save these floors and stop the nail pops or do i have to replace them?

thanks!
It must be an older house... Are both floors nailed from the top? Or maybe the previous owner tried to fix the squeaks by nailing the planks :confused: The narrow strips (3/8" x 1 1/2" or 1 3/4") they usually squeak & there is no way to fix it. Before re-sanding, make sure there is enough wood left for sanding. Maybe it's the nails showing through & this would be a good indication that it's time to replace the floors.
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Newbie
May 10, 2008
84 posts
toronto
patrob wrote:
Jul 29th, 2008 9:53 pm
Actually my husband is now installing Chariot which is very similar to Mocha. Very popular colours & very elegant. What about solid sawn engineered in Walnut, which is perfect for a condo & would def. help resolve your uneven sub-floor problem. The boards are longer, more rigid, perfectly straight which will def. give you a better feel.
Hi Patrob:

Thank you for the colour suggestions, they were very elegant. BTW, I decided to plunge in and level the floor (killed the bank account, but to paraphrase home renovator Mike Holmes, do it right).

I borrowed the darker samples but decided they were too dark with my furniture. Today, I found 2 that are perfect so now I have to decide which one - Vintage musket white oak estate and Vintage chivas hickory vintage (is vintage grade the same as estate?).

The samples I have are 2 planks wide for the hickory and 3 for the oak so a little hard to assess. What is the difference between these woods? I'm familiar with oak but don't know anything about hickory, don't think I've seen any hickory floors or samples anywhere. Is the graining similar to oak and what about durability? Have you seen either of these colours down?

Many thanks.
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irisray wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2008 1:20 am
Hi Patrob:

Thank you for the colour suggestions, they were very elegant. BTW, I decided to plunge in and level the floor (killed the bank account, but to paraphrase home renovator Mike Holmes, do it right).

I borrowed the darker samples but decided they were too dark with my furniture. Today, I found 2 that are perfect so now I have to decide which one - Vintage musket white oak estate and Vintage chivas hickory vintage (is vintage grade the same as estate?).

The samples I have are 2 planks wide for the hickory and 3 for the oak so a little hard to assess. What is the difference between these woods? I'm familiar with oak but don't know anything about hickory, don't think I've seen any hickory floors or samples anywhere. Is the graining similar to oak and what about durability? Have you seen either of these colours down?

Many thanks.
Hickory has a very similar grain to oak. It's around 500 points harder than white oak & long time ago skis & baseball bats were made out of hickory.

Colour wise I prefer white oak Musket but it's really a personal preference. Woods like ash, hickory & some others only come in Vintage grade.

Actually here is a pic of our job done in Vintage Musket colour :)
Image
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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