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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

[OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
10892 posts
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Brampton
audiorichard wrote:
Feb 8th, 2016 2:39 pm
Hi, I plan to put around 1200 sq ft of wide plank hardwood flooring in my townhouse, I am now consider to get vintage flooring solid sawn wire brushed 7" white oak (around $9.8 per sq ft) or Mirage Old Red Oak Barn Wood 6.5" (around $10.5 per sq ft). And I have few questions:

1. For Mirage hardwood, it is 6.5" with only 1/2" thickness while Vintage flooring comes with 3/4" thickness, does it make a different for long term? or is 3/4" more durable? since I have 2 kids and I assume they will makes lots of marks.

2. Since I am in Ottawa, is it cheaper to buy hardwood floor from other city, such as Toronto? Does it worth the cost to ship them to Ottawa?

3. Are there any good brand selling plank as well with lower price? I try to avoid to buy hardwood that need to recoat the oil finish once a year.

Thanks for any advise.
Personally I would go with Vintage solid sawn. For sure price of wood will be cheaper here in GTA, just call a few dealers and compare. But you have to take into consideration the van rental, your time, gas, etc. But on higher square footage might be worth it.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Jr. Member
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Mar 23, 2015
135 posts
4 upvotes
Burlington, ON
Hi Patrob,

I am almost done with installing hardwood in all the rooms. I am getting better and better at it. Again I want to thank you for your guidance and your answers.

My next step will be stairs. Please see the pictures of my stairs below and how my project looks like.

This is how I imagine that I should do this project:

1) Cut off all nosing on all treads
2) Buy tread and risers from store or product line that you recommended. Possibly new metal balusters if reusing of old once won’t be possible.
3) Sand, smooth and stain all wood parts into color of my hardwood.
4) Install treads on top of old once.
5) Install risers and balusters

I was wondering if you can recommend any stores or products that I can use in this project to start me off? I live in Burlington(Toronto GTA) anything close would be great.

Thank you very much in advance.

All the Best,

Ildasm

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[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10892 posts
1316 upvotes
Brampton
Ildasm wrote:
Feb 10th, 2016 4:01 pm
Hi Patrob,

I am almost done with installing hardwood in all the rooms. I am getting better and better at it. Again I want to thank you for your guidance and your answers.

My next step will be stairs. Please see the pictures of my stairs below and how my project looks like.

This is how I imagine that I should do this project:

1) Cut off all nosing on all treads
2) Buy tread and risers from store or product line that you recommended. Possibly new metal balusters if reusing of old once won’t be possible.
3) Sand, smooth and stain all wood parts into color of my hardwood.
4) Install treads on top of old once.
5) Install risers and balusters

I was wondering if you can recommend any stores or products that I can use in this project to start me off? I live in Burlington(Toronto GTA) anything close would be great.

Thank you very much in advance.

All the Best,

Ildasm
Yes you got the right idea. I have no recommendations for pickets & treads. Any big box store will have what you're looking for. Construction adhesive is your friend & don't screw up when you will be installing new pickets. Make sure you drill & install in the right spot.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Member
Jun 5, 2010
421 posts
15 upvotes
Toronto
patrob wrote:
Feb 6th, 2016 4:07 pm
Definitely don't recommend maple in the kitchen.
Hi Patrob, what's the reason of not recommending maple in kitchen?
Is it because the grain on Maple that won't really hide scratches / dents? Whereas hickory / oak are more "busy" in the grain so it hides better?
[OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
10892 posts
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Brampton
epiczz wrote:
Feb 13th, 2016 4:12 pm
Hi Patrob, what's the reason of not recommending maple in kitchen?
Is it because the grain on Maple that won't really hide scratches / dents? Whereas hickory / oak are more "busy" in the grain so it hides better?
Exactly!
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Newbie
Jun 1, 2007
41 posts
3 upvotes
Toronto, ON
Hi Patrob, we have some dents on our engineering hardware floor, the building can fix it by cutting the pieces out and replace with new ones. The builder warned us that this will break the locking system on the hardwood floor, so my question is does it worth losing the locking system to replace the dented floor? Or should I just leave them and forget about them as you'll get dents on the floors when you use it anyway. Thanks!
[OP]
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Brampton
lamlou wrote:
Feb 16th, 2016 2:48 pm
Hi Patrob, we have some dents on our engineering hardware floor, the building can fix it by cutting the pieces out and replace with new ones. The builder warned us that this will break the locking system on the hardwood floor, so my question is does it worth losing the locking system to replace the dented floor? Or should I just leave them and forget about them as you'll get dents on the floors when you use it anyway. Thanks!
If the damage is severe and in very visible place and it bothers you, then it's ok to change a board here and there. Yes the new board will be glued in with tongue and groove cut off. If you have a small dent and the finish is not disturbed then it's perfectly fine to leave it. Everybody wants the floors to look perfect and like you said it will not stay that way!
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Newbie
Jun 1, 2007
41 posts
3 upvotes
Toronto, ON
patrob wrote:
Feb 16th, 2016 9:46 pm
If the damage is severe and in very visible place and it bothers you, then it's ok to change a board here and there. Yes the new board will be glued in with tongue and groove cut off. If you have a small dent and the finish is not disturbed then it's perfectly fine to leave it. Everybody wants the floors to look perfect and like you said it will not stay that way!
Thanks for your advice Patrob! Yea, they are small dents, I'm just afraid cutting the the tongue out will cost more damage then it currently is. Will you be able to tell if a piece has been replaced and glue in or not?
[OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
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Brampton
lamlou wrote:
Feb 16th, 2016 11:00 pm
Thanks for your advice Patrob! Yea, they are small dents, I'm just afraid cutting the the tongue out will cost more damage then it currently is. Will you be able to tell if a piece has been replaced and glue in or not?
You should not be able to tell which boards were replaced but also depends who does the job.
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Deal Addict
Feb 4, 2015
4347 posts
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Canada, Eh!!
Can not sand so what is best product to seal the small space between stair treads and frame?

Rather not put trim pieces on top.

Woodfiller, caulking, push in backer rod, putty??

Thanks.
Deal Addict
Dec 24, 2007
1732 posts
312 upvotes
Toronto
Hello Patrob

I'm laying the 1/2 plywood down as per your instructions. Now I'm looking at hardwood as it seems soon tis the season for price increase.

We are looking at 1000 sq/ft red oak medium brown as we are getting a larger dog and you
mentioned that oak would be a good choice.

We were quoted for the following

Appalachian $4.89/$4.29
Mont Royal $4.98/$4.79

Installation $1.50

Vintage was a lot more so we have decided not to go with that.

We also looked at Tosca hardwood red oak at $4.79 plus $1 installation as this was their in store special but I haven't really read too much about its quality.

The sales person said that he really like Appalachian over the Mont Royal.

What are your thoughts as a professional installer?

Thank you
Thread started in 2016 - 1927 fully gutted and renovated 2 storey detached home in the big T.O. - small projects still in progress.

RFD priceless!
Newbie
Jan 29, 2010
5 posts
Edmonton
I know the post is about hardwood, but we are thinking of cork for the 11 x 17 T shape basement bedroom. We'd have to put in a subfloor. Do you have any recommendations for manufacturers or what we should look for? I really like the zebra pattern. Thanks!
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Aug 18, 2005
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GTA West
lamlou wrote:
Feb 16th, 2016 2:48 pm
Hi Patrob, we have some dents on our engineering hardware floor, the building can fix it by cutting the pieces out and replace with new ones. The builder warned us that this will break the locking system on the hardwood floor, so my question is does it worth losing the locking system to replace the dented floor? Or should I just leave them and forget about them as you'll get dents on the floors when you use it anyway. Thanks!
Unless you are moving soon, just forget about it. You eventually won't notice it.

I have had this situation before and you risk getting planks that squeak or slightly give way when you step on them. This will annoy you.

Bottom line is that you are living there and it's guaranteed you'll cause other damages to it. It's inevitable. Maybe in 10 years you can replace the whole floor.

Knowing what I know now, I would prefer to just install the vinyl style simulated-hardwood planks. Cheaper. More durable. Waterproof. No expansion or contraction due to humidity.
What if there were no hypothetical questions?
Newbie
Feb 17, 2016
4 posts
Great post. I've been doing a lot of research for a few months but still can't make a decision and have a few questions:

1. If I plan to rent the place out for 5 to 10 years before selling, would hardwood flooring be a cost effective flooring option or should I use laminate instead? I've seen some higher end condos with laminate flooring in my area.

2. I have concrete subfloor. If I get tongue and grove engineered hardwood and have it floated, will they have to glue the pieces together? Would engineered hardwood with a clic system be easier to install?

3. I'm looking into these 2 products: Amarosa 5'' Engineered Doussie Onyx from Mejor (dark brown stain) and 7" Engineered Brushed Oak Glace Bay from Kentwood (light stain). What do you think about these 2? Or would you recommend any other stain/brand? I am going for a modern style.

Thank you!
Last edited by ElleAB on Feb 18th, 2016 11:04 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Newbie
Jun 1, 2007
41 posts
3 upvotes
Toronto, ON
Jucius Maximus wrote:
Feb 18th, 2016 8:59 pm
Unless you are moving soon, just forget about it. You eventually won't notice it.

I have had this situation before and you risk getting planks that squeak or slightly give way when you step on them. This will annoy you.

Bottom line is that you are living there and it's guaranteed you'll cause other damages to it. It's inevitable. Maybe in 10 years you can replace the whole floor.

Knowing what I know now, I would prefer to just install the vinyl style simulated-hardwood planks. Cheaper. More durable. Waterproof. No expansion or contraction due to humidity.
Yea that's my worry, I do not want to risk damaging the good planks when replacing the ones with small dents. Thanks for confirming my thoughts!

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