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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Newbie
Sep 15, 2015
25 posts
Toronto, ON
Hey Patrob. This is a very helpful tread. Thanks for all the information.

I plan to install hardwood/engineer floor on the 2nd floor of my newly purchased house. The previous owner already installed narrow (3 1/4) floor on the main floor for dining and living room about 3-5 years ago. I have a newborn boy so i am expecting him to do some damage on the floor. Here is my question:

1. I am planing to install red oak, wire brushed/hand crafted matte finished floor 4 1/4 or wider, dark brown color do you have any suggestions on brand and prodcut. I have installed my old house last year using Makibois (previously Dubeau), sub brand of Lauzon, price is 4.8/sqf, as below
http://m.imgur.com/AVSdF88

2. Do you recommend me to replace the main floor with new wider floor to match the of upstairs now, or later (which should be darker) their floor seems to be maple gloss and 30% matte.

3. Currently the kitchen and entrance is tile, do you recommend to replace with above mentioned as well, or should i keep the tile.

4. I am seeing below engineer floor, 5inch red oak at costco at a reasonable price. But not sire about where the wood and floor is made and grade. Do you recommend this, compared to Canadian made Dubeau wirebrushed hardwood? or something else like superior legand series or Lauzon? I understand mirage and vintage is nice but my budget is 4.7-5.5/ sqf but those brand seem to be all over $7.

https://m.costco.ca/Brushed-Oak-Enginee ... 93075.html

Thank you!
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Mar 22, 2007
23784 posts
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Hamilton
Any hardwood installers in Hamilton?
[OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
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Brampton
anshiren wrote:
Feb 20th, 2017 3:55 pm
Hey Patrob. This is a very helpful tread. Thanks for all the information.

I plan to install hardwood/engineer floor on the 2nd floor of my newly purchased house. The previous owner already installed narrow (3 1/4) floor on the main floor for dining and living room about 3-5 years ago. I have a newborn boy so i am expecting him to do some damage on the floor. Here is my question:

1. I am planing to install red oak, wire brushed/hand crafted matte finished floor 4 1/4 or wider, dark brown color do you have any suggestions on brand and prodcut. I have installed my old house last year using Makibois (previously Dubeau), sub brand of Lauzon, price is 4.8/sqf, as below
http://m.imgur.com/AVSdF88

2. Do you recommend me to replace the main floor with new wider floor to match the of upstairs now, or later (which should be darker) their floor seems to be maple gloss and 30% matte.

3. Currently the kitchen and entrance is tile, do you recommend to replace with above mentioned as well, or should i keep the tile.

4. I am seeing below engineer floor, 5inch red oak at costco at a reasonable price. But not sire about where the wood and floor is made and grade. Do you recommend this, compared to Canadian made Dubeau wirebrushed hardwood? or something else like superior legand series or Lauzon? I understand mirage and vintage is nice but my budget is 4.7-5.5/ sqf but those brand seem to be all over $7.

https://m.costco.ca/Brushed-Oak-Enginee ... 93075.html

Thank you!
No idea about Costco floors, laminates are ok but hardwood no idea. Regarding changing the floors downstairs, it's really up to you but personally looks better if the floors match throughout. Or wait until your kid is a little older after he has made some damage & change after but you might not be able to find the exact same product especially if you buy from Costco :) That Costco floor, even though says can be nailed I would def. not nail it. Tile is more practical & it's a lot of work/mess removing it.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Newbie
May 6, 2013
5 posts
Good day Patrob ! Thank you very much for your very useful thread ! Im shopping for a new hardwood floor at the moment, and I really like the product from Vintage Flooring, its a hand scraped hickory 7". The only thing I dislike is the price tag on that product, I really wanted to hear your opinion on it, have you had any experience with this product yourself? Does it worth the money ? Thanks in advance.
Newbie
Sep 15, 2015
25 posts
Toronto, ON
Thanks Patrob! That's great info, I will replace my first floor later.

Do you have any suggestions on floor selections: I am looking for some wire brushed matte oak, 4 4/1 or wider, solid or engineered (so less maintain work and kids won't damage it easily). Preferably below 4.6-5.5/sqf

I called Costco and their floor comes from Melmart distributor, and the floor is made in China. So I guess I will pass.
Sr. Member
Sep 30, 2011
731 posts
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MISSISSAUGA
Who can answer this question:
I understand there are three ways to install the floor, nail down/glue down/and floater for laminate.
I don't quite follow this: there should always a 3/16 space to every edge against wall for expansion gap, which is obvious for floater scenario, as the whole set of planks gonna move together.
But how about nail and glue down floors. how could those planks be able to move 3/16" without pulling off nail and glue, they gonna expand and contract no matter what, but they have to absorb the change through seam btw contacts.
Sr. Member
Nov 7, 2012
670 posts
238 upvotes
TORONTO
Hey Patrob,
I'd like to scour this thread about hardwood stairs but I'm not sure I'll find the answer.

So my stairs have builders carpet on it. There is a hardwood railing and pickets for a short 4-5ft run and then pickets/railing at the top of the stairs. I just want the stairs done. The railing and pickets are the same colour as the hardwood on the main floor, walnut, so I'd just look at doing the stairs.

Would the installers trash the pickets and railing or would they reuse those?
I'm not looking forward to getting a quote because the stuff I've read so far is that it'll be pretty pricey. My cat is destroying my builders carpet. I was thinking of putting newer carpet but I feel hardwood would be a better choice if we wanted to lay flooring upstairs.
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Apr 17, 2005
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Roofer309 wrote:
Feb 27th, 2017 10:36 am
Good day Patrob ! Thank you very much for your very useful thread ! Im shopping for a new hardwood floor at the moment, and I really like the product from Vintage Flooring, its a hand scraped hickory 7". The only thing I dislike is the price tag on that product, I really wanted to hear your opinion on it, have you had any experience with this product yourself? Does it worth the money ? Thanks in advance.
Yes it's worth the price. White oak is slightly cheaper & maybe you can find a similar colour.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
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Apr 17, 2005
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anshiren wrote:
Feb 27th, 2017 11:10 am
Thanks Patrob! That's great info, I will replace my first floor later.

Do you have any suggestions on floor selections: I am looking for some wire brushed matte oak, 4 4/1 or wider, solid or engineered (so less maintain work and kids won't damage it easily). Preferably below 4.6-5.5/sqf

I called Costco and their floor comes from Melmart distributor, and the floor is made in China. So I guess I will pass.
You might need to change your budget if you want something better. Unfortunately you cannot buy a Ferrari for the price of a Hyundai :)
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
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napoleonbot wrote:
Feb 27th, 2017 1:36 pm
Who can answer this question:
I understand there are three ways to install the floor, nail down/glue down/and floater for laminate.
I don't quite follow this: there should always a 3/16 space to every edge against wall for expansion gap, which is obvious for floater scenario, as the whole set of planks gonna move together.
But how about nail and glue down floors. how could those planks be able to move 3/16" without pulling off nail and glue, they gonna expand and contract no matter what, but they have to absorb the change through seam btw contacts.
Yes, that IMO is standard for solid wood products. Manufacturers still use the same recommendation from years ago. Engineered products don't move that much. But solid wood when it expands you see more expansion on the upper part of the product so when you have 45-50 lines the fraction of a mm will account for a lot of expansion. Yes it may pull out the nails a little bit & when it's glued down, the glues are pretty flexible so it will move with the wood. If you control the humidity in the house to minimize the expansion & contraction, you will not have that much movement.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
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Apr 17, 2005
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akswun wrote:
Feb 27th, 2017 2:09 pm
Hey Patrob,
I'd like to scour this thread about hardwood stairs but I'm not sure I'll find the answer.

So my stairs have builders carpet on it. There is a hardwood railing and pickets for a short 4-5ft run and then pickets/railing at the top of the stairs. I just want the stairs done. The railing and pickets are the same colour as the hardwood on the main floor, walnut, so I'd just look at doing the stairs.

Would the installers trash the pickets and railing or would they reuse those?
I'm not looking forward to getting a quote because the stuff I've read so far is that it'll be pretty pricey. My cat is destroying my builders carpet. I was thinking of putting newer carpet but I feel hardwood would be a better choice if we wanted to lay flooring upstairs.
If you say you want to re-use these pickets, then they should be re-used if that's what you specify. And yes they can be removed without breaking. Stairs tend to be expensive, everything has to be dis-assembled, prepped for treads or caps & risers, stained, varnished & then re-assembled. So you are paying a lot more for labour than actual materials. Some cats are crazy with carpets (seen it lol) & even berber carpet doesn't really help.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Newbie
Mar 25, 2007
13 posts
2 upvotes
Vancouver
Hi patrob,

Great thread here and very timely for me to find it. I am looking to replace the flooring in my house with engineered hardwood but am stuck with analysis paralysis. Can you help with a recommendation on flooring brand/line and maybe installers in the metro Vancouver area? I would like to have everything (demolition, product, and installation) for under $12/sq ft on my 2000 sq ft project. Hopefully there are some good quality (and low VOC) products that fit within that price. Thank you!
Last edited by tiamat on Mar 1st, 2017 1:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Sr. Member
Sep 30, 2011
731 posts
169 upvotes
MISSISSAUGA
patrob wrote:
Feb 27th, 2017 9:50 pm
Yes, that IMO is standard for solid wood products. Manufacturers still use the same recommendation from years ago. Engineered products don't move that much. But solid wood when it expands you see more expansion on the upper part of the product so when you have 45-50 lines the fraction of a mm will account for a lot of expansion. Yes it may pull out the nails a little bit & when it's glued down, the glues are pretty flexible so it will move with the wood. If you control the humidity in the house to minimize the expansion & contraction, you will not have that much movement.
thanks for your answer
Some guy recommend 1mm per board for expansion gap, right or wrong that's a lot for a big room; if you allow 1/2" gap, then you have to believe that the outside ring of board do need to move 1/2" which is more than enough to pull nail off. right?
Is that possible to put a shim btw every board that allow them to expand and mostly settle in the middle.

Another question is, the expansion is actually due to humidity rather than temperature - well these two change together outside, but inside essentially it is humidity not temperature.
So can you timing your expansion gap, such like: if you install in winter, that you know air is dry you should leave sufficient gap, while if you do it in august without AC, you should leave very little gap, coz you know it will only contract.
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Aug 10, 2011
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Somewhere
Hi patrob,

We just installed new hardwood in our house, except the stairs, because it's very expensive for installers to do it. We're planning to DIY it using Youtube videos.

We've got it all down pat, but we're wondering how rounded open ended stairs are installed? Like this one:

Image

Also, what are some alternatives to the "Stair Stringer" that you see in the picture? We have that currently and want to get rid of it. If there is no alternative, where I do I get it?

Thanks!
:confused:
Newbie
Nov 29, 2013
83 posts
13 upvotes
Canada
Hi guys, This is for all including Patrob.

Planning to install hardwood on both floors (ground and first). We selected two hardwood from Mirage (Red oak VIENNA& Red oak WATERLOO). Waterloo is builder grade. Sample just give an idea, how hardwood would look like from close but I would like to see how it look once installed. I would really appreciate If anyone have installed these hardwood and can share pics of their floor ..... thanks million times :)

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