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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

Newbie
Mar 1, 2017
5 posts
patrob wrote:
Apr 2nd, 2017 10:33 pm
From what you're saying it's T&G glue floating floor. Using wrong glue might be a possibility, it may be the wrong underlay, maybe there's some sort of debris under the floor? It may be movement between boards or could be de-laminating. It's hard to determine. You say it's a condo, maybe it's very low humidity? Could be a deflection in the sub-floor/low spot. Placing a table saw on freshly installed floor will not affect it. It might be an easy fix so keep pushing the contractor to come back & look at it so he can determine what is causing the problem.
Thank you Patrob. I went back to the wood flooring store on Sat. They think it's mainly because of the concrete sub floor wasn't leveled before the installation and maybe they did not use enough glue. We use the FloorMuffler UltraSeal underlayment which achieves impact insulation class (IIC) of 73db. Are there ways to fix it other than ripping it out and redo? I do need to get another humidifier. The one just broke a week ago only lasted 3 winters.
Newbie
Mar 1, 2017
5 posts
patrob wrote:
Apr 2nd, 2017 10:48 pm
Mercier & many other manufacturers make 2, 3 or even 4 types of grades of hardwood. They officially state it for everybody to know. It's up to you & your contractor/store to let you know the difference between all the grades and if they are not honest, that's a different story. Yes there are some contractors that will charge you for higher grade and supply with lower unfortunately. If you have suspicion you can always request manufacturer's rep to come by & they will tell you what it is.
I am shocked to know that. For Mercier engineered hardwood, are the products only different in qualities of the finishes or even the plywood layers underneath the hardwood layer?
Newbie
Jan 8, 2014
2 posts
BRAMPTON
buyways wrote:
Dec 4th, 2007 5:04 pm
We just bought a place from lady with a standard poodle who did a number with his claws on the hardwood floors (floor age unknown, house is 100 years old).

Is there some polishing/cleaner-type product you would recommend, or am I likely to need to sand?

If I do decide to sand, how strong/coordinated do I need to be to handle one of those monsters I've seen on TV? (bad images of me taking out walls, flying out front door into traffic, etc)

Is there a refinishing company you recommend for the GTA?

thanks!
patrob wrote:
Mar 30th, 2017 9:27 pm
Same of those products can be removed with cleaners to its original finish. Unfortunately scratches will still be there. Screen and coat will only remove light surface scratches. Anything with slight indentation more likely will still be there. Reputable refinishing companies charge $4 sq ft, are you willing to pay that?
Yes Patrob,
I am willing to pay that to have my floor fixed. It is a pre-finished floor. Anyone you recommend?
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Apr 17, 2005
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User274144 wrote:
Apr 2nd, 2017 11:09 pm
Thank you Patrob. I went back to the wood flooring store on Sat. They think it's mainly because of the concrete sub floor wasn't leveled before the installation and maybe they did not use enough glue. We use the FloorMuffler UltraSeal underlayment which achieves impact insulation class (IIC) of 73db. Are there ways to fix it other than ripping it out and redo? I do need to get another humidifier. The one just broke a week ago only lasted 3 winters.
Unlevelled subfloor will make a big difference in a floating floor. It may even break the tongues off if there's a lot of movement. It's up to the one who took the job to address the situation prior to installation. There's really no way to fix it unless you take that section off.
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User274144 wrote:
Apr 2nd, 2017 11:15 pm
I am shocked to know that. For Mercier engineered hardwood, are the products only different in qualities of the finishes or even the plywood layers underneath the hardwood layer?
The quality of the finish, staining and manufacturing is usually the same. It's usually the grading like knots and colour variation that will vary. The lower grade may have some blemishes in the finish but structure should be the same. The lowest grade is pretty much everything that does not fit in the 1st or 2nd grade.
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HAJKRD wrote:
Apr 3rd, 2017 2:35 pm
Yes Patrob,
I am willing to pay that to have my floor fixed. It is a pre-finished floor. Anyone you recommend?
Yes will send you contact!
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Newbie
Mar 1, 2017
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You are right. The guy works at the store told me the same thing. It's not up to the owners to know that the sub-floor needs to be leveled. Any professional contractors would address the condition to the owners prior to installation. I had no idea how bad the situation was. I can only say that our condo board hired a very unprofessional contractor for us. I suffer a lot in the past 5 months and it is not over yet.... what a nightmare.
Newbie
Apr 7, 2017
1 posts
We installed purparket handscraped engineered floors after our builder screwed up two different brands and colours of flooring ......Twice! After the second installation disaster we opted to settle with the builder so we could select any flooring and have it installed by someone else. We chose purparket. It cost us a bit more but was so worth it. It is easy to clean, we don't have any noticable scratches despite having three large rambunctious dogs, and we constantly receive compliments. I had read some mixed reviews prior to our decision , but we found many of the same negative and positive reviews on almost every brand of flooring. We wanted handscraped engineered floors that could stand up to our crazy dogs and still look great... We found a winner.
Newbie
Sep 15, 2015
22 posts
Toronto, ON
Hi Patrob,

One question on hardwood floor shrinking/gap issue: mine was installed last Au. Its 4 1/4 red oak. Durning the winter i had my humidifier on but living room is over 600 sqft so cant keep humidity above 40, mostly round 30 for winter. now there is gap everywhere, 1-5mm. Bedroom's humidity is better thus gap is smaller.

I understand the wider the plank/the lower the humidity, the worse the gap will be. But my friend also says because i chose not so good hardwood floor: for a better grade/brand, the manufacture will have some pre-finish process/use better wood to prevent large gap. Is that true? Or all hardwood floor has it no matter what.

What brand would you recommend: vintage mirage is good, but a little over my budget. How about Lauzon, Preveco, superior, santin-finish, debaeu?

Lastly, for lower grade floor (below select), in addition to color variation and lots of knots, is there anything else, such as worse wood quality? And will different brand has a unified grading scale? Or even for vintage lowest grade may still be better than some small brand's highest one? I am under the impression they all have their own standards.

Thank you in advance, as always
Newbie
Jan 20, 2016
21 posts
4 upvotes
Toronto, ON
I'm looking to replace the carpets in my 2 bedrooms of my condo with engineered hardwood.
The rest of the condo already has engineered hardwood.

The condo is 8 years old, and I'm trying to find something similar to match.
Having checked home depot/lowes/rona, I can't find a match I'm entirely happy with.

At this point I'm even considering using laminate, however I'm not sure if it's a good idea to mix flooring types.

Thoughts?
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anshiren wrote:
Apr 11th, 2017 12:00 am
Hi Patrob,

One question on hardwood floor shrinking/gap issue: mine was installed last Au. Its 4 1/4 red oak. Durning the winter i had my humidifier on but living room is over 600 sqft so cant keep humidity above 40, mostly round 30 for winter. now there is gap everywhere, 1-5mm. Bedroom's humidity is better thus gap is smaller.

I understand the wider the plank/the lower the humidity, the worse the gap will be. But my friend also says because i chose not so good hardwood floor: for a better grade/brand, the manufacture will have some pre-finish process/use better wood to prevent large gap. Is that true? Or all hardwood floor has it no matter what.

What brand would you recommend: vintage mirage is good, but a little over my budget. How about Lauzon, Preveco, superior, santin-finish, debaeu?

Lastly, for lower grade floor (below select), in addition to color variation and lots of knots, is there anything else, such as worse wood quality? And will different brand has a unified grading scale? Or even for vintage lowest grade may still be better than some small brand's highest one? I am under the impression they all have their own standards.

Thank you in advance, as always
Yes solid wood may move quite a bit. If the wood wasn't treated properly before milling, that will also give you a lot more movement. Grading is only for the clean look of wood, you may have some shrinkage around knots etc. You said that some of those manufacturers are over your budget but they are worth every penny. Superior is not bad. It's not always about the money, you spend less but might cost you more in the end. It's hard to say about every manufacturers grading, it all varies.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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ShyGuy69 wrote:
Apr 11th, 2017 1:55 pm
I'm looking to replace the carpets in my 2 bedrooms of my condo with engineered hardwood.
The rest of the condo already has engineered hardwood.

The condo is 8 years old, and I'm trying to find something similar to match.
Having checked home depot/lowes/rona, I can't find a match I'm entirely happy with.

At this point I'm even considering using laminate, however I'm not sure if it's a good idea to mix flooring types.

Thoughts?
Go to a specialized flooring store they have more selection. There are some laminates that look nice & in the bedrooms only might be ok as long as it's a similar colour etc.
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Newbie
May 18, 2008
73 posts
3 upvotes
Looking to put in 1100sqft Vintage Hickory 3/4" Pioneered 4-1/4". This will replace carpet. A few questions you guys might be able to answer before we get contractors in here for quotes:

1 - Our stairs are medium red brown oak with a thick clear lacquer finish. They've held up perfect for 12 years (no sign of wear). However, is there any possibility in changing the stain color? Probably not but I thought I'd ask. Are we then stuck on our choice of hardwood color. I think Winchester might match but we really would like something darker.

2 - Our baseboards will be too low for 3/4" to fit under. Would you recommend removing and lifting the baseboards or installing the wood away from the existing baseboards and installing doorstop to cover the gap. If we don't lift them we will lose about 5-7mm of height.

3 - What should I expect to pay for installation per square foot? I realize it depends but a ballpark would be fine. Our contractor of choice would be Speers flooring or Milton flooring.
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Electricute wrote:
Apr 12th, 2017 8:44 am
not hardwood, but can anybody comment on this vinyl planks? saw them in store and look decent. has vinyl top with small blue underpad attached to it.

https://www.rona.ca/en/sabbia-vinyl-pla ... m-66285017
It's not a bad product, pretty durable and DIY friendly. You have to remember it's very thin and will reflect every imperfection of the subfloor so you better prep it well. Also transition to tile, nosings etc will require different mouldings.
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