Home & Garden

The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
xrox wrote:
Apr 12th, 2017 12:03 am
Looking to put in 1100sqft Vintage Hickory 3/4" Pioneered 4-1/4". This will replace carpet. A few questions you guys might be able to answer before we get contractors in here for quotes:

1 - Our stairs are medium red brown oak with a thick clear lacquer finish. They've held up perfect for 12 years (no sign of wear). However, is there any possibility in changing the stain color? Probably not but I thought I'd ask. Are we then stuck on our choice of hardwood color. I think Winchester might match but we really would like something darker.

2 - Our baseboards will be too low for 3/4" to fit under. Would you recommend removing and lifting the baseboards or installing the wood away from the existing baseboards and installing doorstop to cover the gap. If we don't lift them we will lose about 5-7mm of height.

3 - What should I expect to pay for installation per square foot? I realize it depends but a ballpark would be fine. Our contractor of choice would be Speers flooring or Milton flooring.
Your floors don't have to be exactly the same as the stairs as long as they are close. You can change the colour of the stairs but you need to totally re-sand it and it's a lot of work.

You can still remove it to raise it if it will bother you. Otherwise don't bother just install doorstop moulding. Anything from $1 sq ft to $3 sq ft, the better contractors will charge more than $2 sq ft plus.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Newbie
Nov 6, 2015
2 posts
Hi there - I am completely new to both RFD and hardwood flooring, but need some guidance and found this *very* helpful thread!

My husband and I recently bought a new home with dark grey carpet throughout. We scheduled one month overlap in mortgages so we can have someone come in to replace all flooring and paint before we move in (have a 6 month old and want to keep her away from the commotion and mess!)

I've only ever had laminate or carpet in previous homes but feel that this house warrants hardwood - but don't know where to start. I'm used to maintenance-free flooring so dont really like the thought of having to watch humidity levels for somid hardwood, but also concerned about off-gassing of engineered with the baby at home.

If we go with solid, are there any species that are "less maintenance" than others ie. more tolerable of humidity fluctuations, harder to scratch, etc? Worried about the cold Canadian winters!

For engineered, are there any brands/types we should stay away from? How can I ensure I find a product that will off-gas as little as possible?

Lastly.... Thoughts on doing the entire second level, bedrooms and hallway with hardwood? (i've only ever had carpet upstairs!) would you use the same flooring as on the main level?

Any insight is much appreciated!! :)
Newbie
Nov 17, 2013
45 posts
12 upvotes
Mississauga, ON
amb1190 wrote:
Apr 13th, 2017 5:26 am
Hi there - I am completely new to both RFD and hardwood flooring, but need some guidance and found this *very* helpful thread!

My husband and I recently bought a new home with dark grey carpet throughout. We scheduled one month overlap in mortgages so we can have someone come in to replace all flooring and paint before we move in (have a 6 month old and want to keep her away from the commotion and mess!)

I've only ever had laminate or carpet in previous homes but feel that this house warrants hardwood - but don't know where to start. I'm used to maintenance-free flooring so dont really like the thought of having to watch humidity levels for somid hardwood, but also concerned about off-gassing of engineered with the baby at home.

If we go with solid, are there any species that are "less maintenance" than others ie. more tolerable of humidity fluctuations, harder to scratch, etc? Worried about the cold Canadian winters!

For engineered, are there any brands/types we should stay away from? How can I ensure I find a product that will off-gas as little as possible?

Lastly.... Thoughts on doing the entire second level, bedrooms and hallway with hardwood? (i've only ever had carpet upstairs!) would you use the same flooring as on the main level?

Any insight is much appreciated!! :)
Welcome to RFD!

I would stick with a native species that has lived through these climates and probably either red oak, ash or white oak. You always want to check humidity and moisture content, otherwise things can get costly down the road if an issue wasn't addressed prior to install. Every floor will scratch, but if you have kids and pets then a less glossy or wire-brushed floor would help hide some wear and tear from everyday use.

Engineered products you should probably stay away from majority of chinese manufactured engineereds. Take a look at Mercier, Superior, Vintage, Lauzon. You can find more technical data in regards to their manufacturing process for engineered material.

Normally you would use same material throughout, but it is your house and you can do as you please. Some homeowners will only install hardwood in the upper hallway and leave the rooms carpeted, its all personal preference at the end of the day.
Member
Apr 10, 2017
377 posts
99 upvotes
LionHardwoodFlooring wrote:
Apr 13th, 2017 7:34 pm
You always want to check humidity and moisture content, otherwise things can get costly down the road if an issue wasn't addressed prior to install.
How does one check for humidity and moisture content? Is this something homeowners can do on their own?

Also, how does this quote sound? (based on usual 3/4' hardwood + baseboard)

Upper level rooms (contractor says total of 650 sq ft @ $6500)

17.6 x 11.1
10 x 10.7
10 x 10.7
10.3 x 10.6

Lower level livingroom/"great room" @ $4000

10.5 x 10
10.5 x 10
*open concept but these are the measurements that were given

Stairs @ $2500 (unfortunately I wasn't able to count the number of steps)

$12k for all the work. It's one thing I don't want to cut corners on but also don't want to blow the budget as I've got other things to reno.

I'm really clueless when it comes to brands ,etc , but the same contractor did my friend's flooring and it looks great + no complains from my friend who's had his home for ~ 3yrs now. Is it right for me to ask what brand he's using?

Thanks
Member
User avatar
Nov 7, 2013
369 posts
83 upvotes
the 604
total n00b questions, hope someone can advise.

700 square feet, one big space, Oak hardwood, about 20 years old. condition varies from good to patches of light scuffing to "embedded" deeper scratches, to cracking in a couple spots (near heating sources/windows) and a half dozen edges being lifted up slightly (kitchen and other moisture-suspect spots). it would seem to me that the previous owner didn't take great care (no furniture protectors, dragged furniture, heeled shoes, maybe left damp spots, etc.) -- yet despite all this, the floors on initial glance look shiny and not dull/flat, and generally are in good shape.

1. based on the above, sanding/refinish would be required, is that right? would the entire floor need to be done? or could i get away with screen and coat?

2. unfortunately, there's no way i can remove all furnishings so that there's a clear floor to work with. but there's not a lot of stuff, and it can all be moved around. can a refinish work in this situation?

and finally, i'm in Metro Van. any recommendations?

thanks in advance!
[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
Biscayne05 wrote:
Apr 14th, 2017 1:01 am
How does one check for humidity and moisture content? Is this something homeowners can do on their own?

Also, how does this quote sound? (based on usual 3/4' hardwood + baseboard)

Upper level rooms (contractor says total of 650 sq ft @ $6500)

17.6 x 11.1
10 x 10.7
10 x 10.7
10.3 x 10.6

Lower level livingroom/"great room" @ $4000

10.5 x 10
10.5 x 10
*open concept but these are the measurements that were given

Stairs @ $2500 (unfortunately I wasn't able to count the number of steps)

$12k for all the work. It's one thing I don't want to cut corners on but also don't want to blow the budget as I've got other things to reno.

I'm really clueless when it comes to brands ,etc , but the same contractor did my friend's flooring and it looks great + no complains from my friend who's had his home for ~ 3yrs now. Is it right for me to ask what brand he's using?

Thanks
You can purchase a moisture meter to check the moisture of the sub-floor & the wood you want to install. It's also good to have a hygrometer to see the humidity in the house.

Estimate on average around $10 sq ft supplied & installed. Some products are cheaper & some are more expensive but also what is included with the quote like removal, prep, trim mouldings, etc. Stairs are always tricky & usually expensive to do.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
AMRadio wrote:
Apr 16th, 2017 2:12 am
total n00b questions, hope someone can advise.

700 square feet, one big space, Oak hardwood, about 20 years old. condition varies from good to patches of light scuffing to "embedded" deeper scratches, to cracking in a couple spots (near heating sources/windows) and a half dozen edges being lifted up slightly (kitchen and other moisture-suspect spots). it would seem to me that the previous owner didn't take great care (no furniture protectors, dragged furniture, heeled shoes, maybe left damp spots, etc.) -- yet despite all this, the floors on initial glance look shiny and not dull/flat, and generally are in good shape.

1. based on the above, sanding/refinish would be required, is that right? would the entire floor need to be done? or could i get away with screen and coat?

2. unfortunately, there's no way i can remove all furnishings so that there's a clear floor to work with. but there's not a lot of stuff, and it can all be moved around. can a refinish work in this situation?

and finally, i'm in Metro Van. any recommendations?

thanks in advance!
Unfortunately for any sort of refinishing/screen&coat the areas has to be totally empty. You cannot work in sections. Screen&coat will not remove deeper scratches or cracks. If you get the room empty, would be nice to have the floors refinished completely. If any refinisher comes in & says they can apply the finish in sections, throw them out! And finish needs curing time before you can put your furniture on.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Member
User avatar
Nov 7, 2013
369 posts
83 upvotes
the 604
patrob wrote:
Apr 17th, 2017 10:07 pm
Unfortunately for any sort of refinishing/screen&coat the areas has to be totally empty. You cannot work in sections. Screen&coat will not remove deeper scratches or cracks. If you get the room empty, would be nice to have the floors refinished completely. If any refinisher comes in & says they can apply the finish in sections, throw them out! And finish needs curing time before you can put your furniture on.
thanks for the reply!

and darn. how much curing time (days) is needed typically? what's your thought on this: i live in what is for all intents and purposes a big box, big open space, no stairs, no rooms (except the bathroom, which has tiling on the floor). everything could easily be fit in 1/4 of the space. so: could a crew come in, do 3/4 of it, and then after that section is good to go, i could move everything over for them to do the remaining 1/4 of the space? i'm guessing that if this were possible, i would incur extra set-up costs, etc.

thanks again!
Member
Apr 10, 2017
377 posts
99 upvotes
patrob wrote:
Apr 17th, 2017 10:04 pm
You can purchase a moisture meter to check the moisture of the sub-floor & the wood you want to install. It's also good to have a hygrometer to see the humidity in the house.

Estimate on average around $10 sq ft supplied & installed. Some products are cheaper & some are more expensive but also what is included with the quote like removal, prep, trim mouldings, etc. Stairs are always tricky & usually expensive to do.
Thanks

Also, I visited a store today to check out some Greyish/White hardwood floors and I noticed that there's a pinkish tinge on the floors unless heavily stained. Is that the way these Greyish/White floors are?

I'm looking for something like this:

Image

It seems like only engineered floors/laminate can only get the shades I want unless I get a custom which I'm not sure how much it'll cost.
[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
AMRadio wrote:
Apr 17th, 2017 10:53 pm
thanks for the reply!

and darn. how much curing time (days) is needed typically? what's your thought on this: i live in what is for all intents and purposes a big box, big open space, no stairs, no rooms (except the bathroom, which has tiling on the floor). everything could easily be fit in 1/4 of the space. so: could a crew come in, do 3/4 of it, and then after that section is good to go, i could move everything over for them to do the remaining 1/4 of the space? i'm guessing that if this were possible, i would incur extra set-up costs, etc.

thanks again!
The curing time depends on the finishes used. When sanding floors and the surface is prepped nice and flat, if you place something heavy on top of it, walk on it or scuff it, it may show in the finished product. Same thing when you apply stain and finish, you leave out an unfinished area and then you try to blend in the stain, it may or more likely will show. It even shows more when applying finish and trying to blend in it's called overlapping. Best to consult with a refinisher.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
Biscayne05 wrote:
Apr 17th, 2017 11:01 pm
Thanks

Also, I visited a store today to check out some Greyish/White hardwood floors and I noticed that there's a pinkish tinge on the floors unless heavily stained. Is that the way these Greyish/White floors are?

I'm looking for something like this:

Image

It seems like only engineered floors/laminate can only get the shades I want unless I get a custom which I'm not sure how much it'll cost.
Some species like red oak with red undertone, will show red undertone a lot more than others. If you search more you will probably find something you are looking for or close. But for those colours I would recommend engineered hardwood only. Just because when the wood expands and contracts and every little gap will show as a black line which might drive you nuts lol With engineered and controlled humidity you will minimize it.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Member
Apr 10, 2017
377 posts
99 upvotes
patrob wrote:
Apr 18th, 2017 10:24 pm
Some species like red oak with red undertone, will show red undertone a lot more than others. If you search more you will probably find something you are looking for or close. But for those colours I would recommend engineered hardwood only. Just because when the wood expands and contracts and every little gap will show as a black line which might drive you nuts lol With engineered and controlled humidity you will minimize it.
I was actually exploring the idea of engineered earlier, but I'm obviously unaware of the reputable brands other than Armstrong. Any suggestions?

An expert here also warned me about the pinkish tinge and you sort of turn me off with the black lines (any pictures of it?)

I need to educate myself more with engineered wood. Still a bit apprehensive but maybe it's just due to my lack of knowledge

Thanks patrob!
[OP]
Deal Guru
User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
10542 posts
1137 upvotes
Brampton
Biscayne05 wrote:
Apr 18th, 2017 11:02 pm
I was actually exploring the idea of engineered earlier, but I'm obviously unaware of the reputable brands other than Armstrong. Any suggestions?

An expert here also warned me about the pinkish tinge and you sort of turn me off with the black lines (any pictures of it?)

I need to educate myself more with engineered wood. Still a bit apprehensive but maybe it's just due to my lack of knowledge

Thanks patrob!
Take a look at Vintage Flooring, they have lots of colours to choose from. You can also check out Mirage
http://www.vintageflooring.com/ENG/flooring/

I would definitely recommend those over Armstrong! Don't have pics of the black lines.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
Voted RFD "Most Helpful Thread of 2012"
__________________________________________________
If I helped in any way, please click the UpVote button or UpVote my Thread(s) :)
Newbie
Nov 6, 2015
2 posts
Thank you for the response! :) any opinions on Totem, Lauzon, Laurentian or Cashmere hardwood? Looking for something made in Canada. Thanks!!
Jr. Member
User avatar
Jul 18, 2007
105 posts
13 upvotes
London
Hi everyone. I'm fixing up a rental property and doing hardwood for both the main floor and the basement.

Would you kind people please recommend some brands that are durable and economic?

Top