I will definitely second Patrob on that. I have never dealt with a worse place. Ignorant employee's with bad attitudes.. I will *never* go there again, they couldn't even help me match a stain/varnish combo for about $500 i was spending in bullnosing, edging and wax underlay.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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- jimgiggles
- Sr. Member
- Jul 23, 2006
- 614 posts
- 93 upvotes
- Toronto
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
Yes, I would try those stores.
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- ak1234
- Newbie
- Dec 22, 2008
- 34 posts
- Brampton, ON
Hi All,
I must accept, I know nothing about hardwood and laminate flooring. However, this is a very nice thread with lots of useful information.
I have a semi approx 1800 sqft. I want to install hardwood floors on the 1st floor (Living room & Family room) and laminate on 2nd floor (4 bedrooms). I don't know what will look nice on stairs. I am looking to get this done by someone for < $5000. Is this price reasonable expectation? I have 2 small kids and want to get the carpet removed for medical reasons. Can anyone suggest some good contractors? I live in Brampton.
Thanks.
I must accept, I know nothing about hardwood and laminate flooring. However, this is a very nice thread with lots of useful information.
I have a semi approx 1800 sqft. I want to install hardwood floors on the 1st floor (Living room & Family room) and laminate on 2nd floor (4 bedrooms). I don't know what will look nice on stairs. I am looking to get this done by someone for < $5000. Is this price reasonable expectation? I have 2 small kids and want to get the carpet removed for medical reasons. Can anyone suggest some good contractors? I live in Brampton.
Thanks.
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
If you have a strict budget of $5K, you will have to do a lot of work yourself like remove carpet, prepare sub-floors & finish trim (quarter round). And also you will have to use lower quality materials. I think you will have to rethink your budget.ak1234 wrote: ↑Hi All,
I must accept, I know nothing about hardwood and laminate flooring. However, this is a very nice thread with lots of useful information.
I have a semi approx 1800 sqft. I want to install hardwood floors on the 1st floor (Living room & Family room) and laminate on 2nd floor (4 bedrooms). I don't know what will look nice on stairs. I am looking to get this done by someone for < $5000. Is this price reasonable expectation? I have 2 small kids and want to get the carpet removed for medical reasons. Can anyone suggest some good contractors? I live in Brampton.
Thanks.
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- leafnation5
- Sr. Member
- Dec 30, 2007
- 655 posts
- 57 upvotes
- Toronto
jimgiggles wrote: ↑I will definitely second Patrob on that. I have never dealt with a worse place. Ignorant employee's with bad attitudes.. I will *never* go there again, they couldn't even help me match a stain/varnish combo for about $500 i was spending in bullnosing, edging and wax underlay.
Few weeks ago I went there for unfinished hardwood and stair nose. I saw stair treads there so I started to ask questions and pricing about those. The sales woman there was so rude that told me that prices are written on all products, you can see it there. A guy (who was also a customer), was standing next to me and said "Unbelievable" and walked out of the store shaking his head in disbelief. I also walked out and saying thanks to her and "that was definately helpful. I believe BHF has employed you to show the customer the price tags".
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
jimgiggles wrote: ↑I will definitely second Patrob on that. I have never dealt with a worse place. Ignorant employee's with bad attitudes.. I will *never* go there again, they couldn't even help me match a stain/varnish combo for about $500 i was spending in bullnosing, edging and wax underlay.
Brampton Flooring is all about volume selling, they don't sell themselves with customer service or knowledge & most of the products they sell are equivalent to their customer service, which sucks IMO.leafnation5 wrote: ↑Few weeks ago I went there for unfinished hardwood and stair nose. I saw stair treads there so I started to ask questions and pricing about those. The sales woman there was so rude that told me that prices are written on all products, you can see it there. A guy (who was also a customer), was standing next to me and said "Unbelievable" and walked out of the store shaking his head in disbelief. I also walked out and saying thanks to her and "that was definately helpful. I believe BHF has employed you to show the customer the price tags".
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- praseodymium
- Newbie
- Oct 19, 2005
- 72 posts
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- RRKnight
- Sr. Member
- Mar 30, 2006
- 769 posts
- 35 upvotes
Patrob are Home Depot hardwood floors any good? Also how is Birch hardwood floors compare to Oak and Maple? Is Goodfellow a good company?
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
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- Brampton
Don't know anything about Sunca but the price is ok.praseodymium wrote: ↑It's manufactured by Sunca. I see from a previous posts that much is not know of these guys.
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- patrob [OP]
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- Apr 17, 2005
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I would rather spend the same money somewhere else than HD. Birch is called the "cheap maple". It's softer, has a similar grain & shows defects/damages the same way as maple but is cheaper. Oak is a lot more forgiving vs. the other two.
You have to be careful with Goodfellow. I noticed previously that some of their products were imported from China. So read the labels carefully. Here is one negative review from a member http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/show ... tcount=924
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- ak1234
- Newbie
- Dec 22, 2008
- 34 posts
- Brampton, ON
Thanks patrob for your reply as well as PM. I would make the call in next couple of days.
I was doing a lot of reading on internet and I believe I can go for at least laminate installation on 2nd floor. I am leaning towards "Pergo" brand. Does anyone know where I can get this in/around GTA?
- ppcuser
- Member
- Mar 17, 2008
- 477 posts
- 2 upvotes
Question for OP:
I have 2 rooms in my house (family + dining) that are the following dimensions (approx): 10'x15' and 12'x12'. Both are a light oak hardwood. I would like these restained a darker brown tone. Is this job, if given to a contractor or specialist, an expensive one? What approx. costs am I looking at for re-staining these two rooms?
I have 2 rooms in my house (family + dining) that are the following dimensions (approx): 10'x15' and 12'x12'. Both are a light oak hardwood. I would like these restained a darker brown tone. Is this job, if given to a contractor or specialist, an expensive one? What approx. costs am I looking at for re-staining these two rooms?
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
What is the reason you want Pergo? Have you looked at other brands like Torlys?ak1234 wrote: ↑Thanks patrob for your reply as well as PM. I would make the call in next couple of days.
I was doing a lot of reading on internet and I believe I can go for at least laminate installation on 2nd floor. I am leaning towards "Pergo" brand. Does anyone know where I can get this in/around GTA?
Check out Pergo's website for local dealer listings.
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- patrob [OP]
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- Brampton
This job should not cost more than $1K, might even be less. PM me for contact info if you need one.ppcuser wrote: ↑Question for OP:
I have 2 rooms in my house (family + dining) that are the following dimensions (approx): 10'x15' and 12'x12'. Both are a light oak hardwood. I would like these restained a darker brown tone. Is this job, if given to a contractor or specialist, an expensive one? What approx. costs am I looking at for re-staining these two rooms?
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- loudsubz
- Deal Addict
- Dec 1, 2003
- 1291 posts
- 10 upvotes
I have 2 flooring areas that I am running wood from one to the other.
Similar to this layout:
Say I am running wood from office to dining room, what is the best method to run the wood from each room? Do I measure, and start the wood course in each room and hope they meet up exactly when they reach the opening to both rooms? Do I start in one room, and when it reaches the opening to the next room, run the wood the length of both rooms, and then somehow work back from that line to the outer edges of the room?
I can't seem to find much on this topic. Pictures would be great.
Similar to this layout:
Say I am running wood from office to dining room, what is the best method to run the wood from each room? Do I measure, and start the wood course in each room and hope they meet up exactly when they reach the opening to both rooms? Do I start in one room, and when it reaches the opening to the next room, run the wood the length of both rooms, and then somehow work back from that line to the outer edges of the room?
I can't seem to find much on this topic. Pictures would be great.
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
Start from the wall in the middle, dividing office & living room. Shoot your line for your living room then split directions (reverse) in entrance to the hallway, which will give you the least possible way to make a mistake. This will make your work easier & will give you two separate working areas, which you can tackle in two separate stages.loudsubz wrote: ↑I have 2 flooring areas that I am running wood from one to the other.
Similar to this layout:
[IMG]http://www.thefloorpro.com/community/at ... r_plan.gif[/IMG]
Say I am running wood from office to dining room, what is the best method to run the wood from each room? Do I measure, and start the wood course in each room and hope they meet up exactly when they reach the opening to both rooms? Do I start in one room, and when it reaches the opening to the next room, run the wood the length of both rooms, and then somehow work back from that line to the outer edges of the room?
I can't seem to find much on this topic. Pictures would be great.
The distance from outside wall to the hallway in office/dining is too great to take a chance to hope it meets. Of course it's doable if you know what you're doing but it's easier to start from the middle & split in both directions.
I hope you know how to turn around without top nailing Let me know if you understood what I said
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- irisray
- Newbie
- May 10, 2008
- 84 posts
- toronto
Hi Patrob:
Still following this thread - got hooked when I was looking for flooring, and now can't help myself Hope you've had a nice holiday and best wishes for the new year.
I was in a condo today where the wood in the livingroom ran across the width not the length of the room. Maybe because of that, I noticed the planks in alternate or every couple of rows started/ended in exactly the same spot. Like they were all lined up. I've never seen a floor so noticeably uniform. Is this the way it's supposed to be done? Any other floors I've seen have been more random - maybe easier when they're running the length of the room?
Still following this thread - got hooked when I was looking for flooring, and now can't help myself Hope you've had a nice holiday and best wishes for the new year.
I was in a condo today where the wood in the livingroom ran across the width not the length of the room. Maybe because of that, I noticed the planks in alternate or every couple of rows started/ended in exactly the same spot. Like they were all lined up. I've never seen a floor so noticeably uniform. Is this the way it's supposed to be done? Any other floors I've seen have been more random - maybe easier when they're running the length of the room?
- loudsubz
- Deal Addict
- Dec 1, 2003
- 1291 posts
- 10 upvotes
Thanks for the help, and Im not sure how to turn around without top nailing. I read that you can buy a piece of tongue and slip that in the groove then nail it down, but Im not sure where to get it? Is that even the correct way?patrob wrote: ↑Start from the wall in the middle, dividing office & living room. Shoot your line for your living room then split directions (reverse) in entrance to the hallway, which will give you the least possible way to make a mistake. This will make your work easier & will give you two separate working areas, which you can tackle in two separate stages.
The distance from outside wall to the hallway in office/dining is too great to take a chance to hope it meets. Of course it's doable if you know what you're doing but it's easier to start from the middle & split in both directions.
I hope you know how to turn around without top nailing Let me know if you understood what I said
thanks.
- patrob [OP]
- Deal Guru
- Apr 17, 2005
- 11038 posts
- 1546 upvotes
- Brampton
Yes, that's the correct way but you don't have to buy it. Just rip a 1/4" ply if you have it to approx. 3/8" wide & that will give you your return tongue. Or rip a piece of wood oak/maple/poplar (not pine) to 1/4" by 3/8". You can also add a little glue at the point of turn around.
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- loudsubz
- Deal Addict
- Dec 1, 2003
- 1291 posts
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thanks