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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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Aug 2, 2004
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East Gwillimbury
audiorichard wrote:
Sep 3rd, 2017 11:36 pm
Would you suggest a good brand and colour hardwood for rental properties? is hardwood floor from home depot good enough? thank you
I would use laminate from Costco for a rental. People are just going to abuse that floor
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malaujai wrote:
Sep 1st, 2017 11:57 am
We're planning on installing hardwood floors upstairs (currently carpet) in our place... I've got a few quick questions:

1. The house is a semi and around 7 years old. The current flooring is carpet, but given the house is relatively new, would it be safe to assume we wouldn't need a new subfloor? Not sure if the fact it's currently carpet would come into play.
2. Are underlayments a must? This is going into the second floor and one issue I noticed while living with my parents before when they did the carpet to hardwood conversion was how much louder things were when walking about upstairs. Are acoustic underlayments effective or are they a waste of money?
3. I've gotten a few recommendations from people I know for stores and contractors... What are things I should look out for in terms of quality of work when I go to their homes? For example, should every other piece of hardwood be aligned with where it starts and ends? etc.
4. I'm sure there are 'brand names' for wood, but what are the major differences between pricey wood and cheaper wood? Are they purely aesthetic differences?

Thanks!!
1) No you don't need new subfloor.
2) Waste of money
3) This was discussed few times before, do a quick search. BTW most people don't see the difference.
4) What's the difference between Kia and Mercedes? Yes esthetics of the wood, finishing, milling, quality of varnish, stain, etc. If you find wood and there's no info online, stay away.
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ricerz wrote:
Sep 3rd, 2017 11:18 pm
Does anyone know of any places in the GTA (preferably in the west end) that sells Tweleve Oaks products? I finally decided on engineered hardwood and the color (colonial) that I really like is from Tweleve Oaks.

The website does not have a list of dealers. I tried a google search and the only ones that I could have were AA, flooring liquidators and possibly Chestnut but I have not visited their store or called them to confirm yet.

Thanks
Try Floors Direct in Mississauga.
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audiorichard wrote:
Sep 3rd, 2017 11:36 pm
Would you suggest a good brand and colour hardwood for rental properties? is hardwood floor from home depot good enough? thank you
Laminate is preferred for rental properties unless it's a high end rental. Or if you really prefer hardwood, go with engineered distressed hardwood.
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Sep 4, 2017
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Hello to the Guru's in this forum.

I've been a lurker on RFD for a couple years mainly looking at other local deals, but I bought a home recently and found this forum which has brought some of the highest value of knowledge compared to other threads.

Anyways I was planning on doing my own hardwood and I had a few questions I hoped some of you could help answer:

1) Do you think having two different colors of hardwood on two levels of your home hurts resale value? I was planning on initially doing a dark brown upstairs and a light grey downstairs, but now I've resorted to choosing two similar greys.

2) I initially planned to start my process in one of the smaller rooms upstairs, thus if I really messed things up I would call a professional to come finish the job. However, someone had advised me that I should start at the top of the staircase and work my way into the rooms. Is this the best way to go about it?

3) I noticed that If i start at the stairs I run into an issue with the railings I have on the top floor (see picture). I wasn't planning on doing the rails till later because I don't have the funds for them right now (young home buyer), would it be okay to leave them be for the time being? If so how much room around the rails should I leave? I assume the same width as the nose piece which would be the first piece I would lay down when starting the project?

Thanks again for any advice you guys may have!
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Is it common for samples to look vastly different from the real product

The sample matched our stairs perfectly but the product we got looks different.

We have this exact brand downstairs only difference being that downstairs is glossy finish and that matches the stairs.
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truenorthstrong wrote:
Sep 5th, 2017 12:46 am
Hello to the Guru's in this forum.

I've been a lurker on RFD for a couple years mainly looking at other local deals, but I bought a home recently and found this forum which has brought some of the highest value of knowledge compared to other threads.

Anyways I was planning on doing my own hardwood and I had a few questions I hoped some of you could help answer:

1) Do you think having two different colors of hardwood on two levels of your home hurts resale value? I was planning on initially doing a dark brown upstairs and a light grey downstairs, but now I've resorted to choosing two similar greys.

2) I initially planned to start my process in one of the smaller rooms upstairs, thus if I really messed things up I would call a professional to come finish the job. However, someone had advised me that I should start at the top of the staircase and work my way into the rooms. Is this the best way to go about it?

3) I noticed that If i start at the stairs I run into an issue with the railings I have on the top floor (see picture). I wasn't planning on doing the rails till later because I don't have the funds for them right now (young home buyer), would it be okay to leave them be for the time being? If so how much room around the rails should I leave? I assume the same width as the nose piece which would be the first piece I would lay down when starting the project?

Thanks again for any advice you guys may have!
It's always better to have the same or similar colour throughout the house. And yes it is nicer when you starts off the hallway with the fullest piece & work your way into the rooms. But that requires little bit of planning you definitely need nosings as a starting point. You can also remove the carpet & measure back from the nosing but that will become a tripping hazard at the first step! It will definitely be better until you do the nosings & the stairs first & then do the floors after. If you start in one room & you screw it up, it might throw off the floor throughout that level (off square). It's easy on video but you can easily run into problems. Installing continuous floor on one level is not an easy project (for most).
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Jan 15, 2013
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Mississauga
Gotoff wrote:
Sep 5th, 2017 1:43 pm
Is it common for samples to look vastly different from the real product

The sample matched our stairs perfectly but the product we got looks different.

We have this exact brand downstairs only difference being that downstairs is glossy finish and that matches the stairs.
Yes. They usually have warnings that the sample isn't representative of the actual product.

Actually happened to my floors but it turned out better than I expected. To date, Coswick has the best floor board samples (found them at AA Floors in Evans). They have a 4ft x 3ft (approximately) board samples.
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Gotoff wrote:
Sep 5th, 2017 1:43 pm
Is it common for samples to look vastly different from the real product

The sample matched our stairs perfectly but the product we got looks different.

We have this exact brand downstairs only difference being that downstairs is glossy finish and that matches the stairs.
Samples should look the same as the product unless they are very old or may be exposed to a lot of sunlight which may change the colour. Also the sheen of finish may change the look. But on the other hand not all manufacturers are uniform with the stain, it may change from batch to batch especially with the cheaper products.
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So finally finished, and it looks better now that the whole upper floor is done even though its not fully uniform.
We believe it's because of the sheen difference as its the same brand and color lower and upper

We dealt with a referral from user "callmebob" and it turned out great, their company name is A A A flooring but not the one you'd find on google.

It's only been one day but their customer service is unparalleled, they covered the stains they made on my wall, Also they actually punctured a nail through a pipe in my closet due to no fault of their own, (builders fault not putting clips on the pipe to secure it way under, plumber confirmed it was builders fault) and they reimbursed half of the $300 it took to fix it.
and most of all, aside from the pickets we had installed, these guys were the cheapest i could find. $2/installed with carpet removed and $6100 with stainless steel pickets / otherwise $4000~ with iron /wood pickets.

Will update if the stain on the stairs don't hold up.


Pm me if you guys need their number.
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Jan 15, 2013
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Mississauga
Patrob: SOS.


I noticed my engineered floors had developed a hump (approx 4ft x 1ft). I knew for a fact we had at least 1/2inch clearances for all corners and saw some of the wood had already expanded.

I'll take more pictures later, but what's the worst case scenario repair here and how much it'll cost? It hurts that the part is right directly infront of where my waterfall for my peninsula is going to be installed.
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Brookside05 wrote:
Sep 9th, 2017 9:04 am
Patrob: SOS.


I noticed my engineered floors had developed a hump (approx 4ft x 1ft). I knew for a fact we had at least 1/2inch clearances for all corners and saw some of the wood had already expanded.

I'll take more pictures later, but what's the worst case scenario repair here and how much it'll cost? It hurts that the part is right directly infront of where my waterfall for my peninsula is going to be installed.
So I guess it's a kitchen? What was the installation method, floating or nail down? If it has expanded due to humidity, get a dehumidifier. BTW, kitchen cannot be installed on top of the floating floor. If it's nail down, the hump is more likely a subfloor issue rather than floor itself.
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1. My entire main floor is hardwood. Haven't moved in yet,but floors were installed already 3 weeks ago

2. Nail

Upon further inspection it looks like 1 board wasn't nailed at all so it raised. No signs of others that "tented" or any humps. We just used a brad nailer. Just need to fill and paint over it but it's tiny I think I can live with it.

Yes, it looks like I'll get a dehumidifier very soon. I noticed the floors expanded already and I find it quite fascinating. I really thought the 1/2 gap was too big but it's just enough.
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Aug 1, 2007
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Ontario
Patrob:

Wondering if you could weigh in on what the difference would be for engineered floors that look like the cross sections posted below.

The pic with two boards are both Fuzion Flooring products.

http://fuzionflooring.com/product/oak-canora-harvest/ : core - solid core , 3 layer
http://fuzionflooring.com/product/oak-brindille/: core - multilayer plywood core

This pic with one board is a Torlys summit premier hardwood.

https://www.torlys.com/residential/prod ... -hardwood/

Any recommendations between these 3 options?
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Brookside05 wrote:
Sep 10th, 2017 12:09 am
1. My entire main floor is hardwood. Haven't moved in yet,but floors were installed already 3 weeks ago

2. Nail

Upon further inspection it looks like 1 board wasn't nailed at all so it raised. No signs of others that "tented" or any humps. We just used a brad nailer. Just need to fill and paint over it but it's tiny I think I can live with it.

Yes, it looks like I'll get a dehumidifier very soon. I noticed the floors expanded already and I find it quite fascinating. I really thought the 1/2 gap was too big but it's just enough.
Personally I would not top nail in the middle of the floor unless it's handsrcaped or distressed. Yes it's possible for installer to miss nailing a line or maybe even nailing without nails (without realizing).
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