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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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Nov 17, 2013
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Mississauga, ON
Andycc wrote:
Nov 16th, 2017 2:14 pm
Thanks. Just received a response from the builder - floor joists run north to south, so they propose to install hardwood perpendicular- east to west.
Would that look off??

What about subfloors?

Not necessarily, its all personal preference at the end of the day some may like some may not. If you really want to go with the joist then put a spruce ply on top and refasten the osb. You may see waves in your floor if you just go parallel over the osb. Crossing the joist makes the floor stronger and hides dips/humps between joists. If you beef up your subfloor you wont have to worry about crossing the joists.

I would definitely refasten the subfloor regardless before installation.
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hoob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2017 11:10 am
The floor seems to be level enough but not completely true; I don't plan on truing it, just shipping/planing low/high spots as needed. Products I am thinking of are very slightly redish brown/mocha white oak, hand scraped, engineered, matte finish. I think I prefer the 3.25" strip look but harder and harder to get these days.
I picked up a sample at Darmaga Hardwood for a Vintage product, oddly enough it's not listed on their website, yet?

White Oak Buckingham -- Sculpted, Northern Solid Sawn -- Character Grade 4 3/8", UVF Oil matte finish

Image


Sculpted is basically the machine version of hand-scraped where the surface is given a wavy pattern. NSS is the fully Canadian product as well which I prefer. I really like the somewhat coarse feel of the finish, no gloss/slip at all.

Will get a quote from Darmaga on Friday (when I return their 5 sample panels) but is $8/sf the range I should be looking for? I will peruse the thread for other mentions, but any specific suppliers to get a quote from, as well?
Revolutionary times must on occasion make do with considerable abridgements in order to accentuate the political line more strongly.
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Jan 14, 2012
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KITCHENER
LionHardwoodFlooring wrote:
Nov 16th, 2017 1:34 pm
Easiest is to measure the longest exterior wall to see how square it is with your plywood and adjust your starting line if need be. If you don't mind having your ending row varying in size from 1-3" or it wont be visible then it doesn't really matter.
So you would say best overall way is to just butt the hardwood against drywall with 1/4" spacers and just follow the wall regardless of it being square or not.
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Nov 17, 2013
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Mississauga, ON
Supperfly wrote:
Nov 17th, 2017 10:23 am
So you would say best overall way is to just butt the hardwood against drywall with 1/4" spacers and just follow the wall regardless of it being square or not.
If that wall is fairly straight with the plywood lines and same with the opposing wall then yes. If not then adjust accordingly to the plywood lines.

Say you have 5” wide plank with 1/4 tongue. Start about 6-12” in from the wall and make a mark 5 1/2 off the drywall then again on the other end of the wall.

After you chalk that first line you can measure it to the rest of the walls/plywood and see if it’s square or if you need to adjust it.
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hoob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2017 11:10 am
OK, flashback from 2011, here I am now. I've done pretty much everything else that needs to be done in the house (kitchen, windows, rear door, deck, parking pad, landscaping, full basement.. ) , so I guess now is the time to consider the upstairs laminate (and then, ultimately, convert the carpeted stairs to solid treads.)

Here's the space I'm working with, total area about 320sf:

Image

I have not removed the existing flooring yet, but based on what I saw when I had the main floor ceiling open, and by look at upstairs floor vents, the sandwich is:

* 10mm laminate
* 1/2" 'sawdust board' filler/backer/whatever underlayment
* 3/8" plywood
* 4x1" original TG pine subfloor (my house is 100 years old this month, happy centenary to meee)

Basic outline of my plans:

* Clear out and dispose the laminate and underlayment and baseboard (easy)
* Remove the 3/8" plywood if it's only nailed/stapled/screwed down, if it's glued and firm leave in place
* If bare sub-floor can be expose, go and fix it up as possible including screwing down every plank/joist, plane down high spots, etc
* If bare sub-floor exposes, then glue/screw down 3/4" plywood (I like screwing, never enough screws for me, according to my kitchen contractor after I did the main kitchen subfloor, hahaha..)
* Otherwise glue/screw 5/8" plywood overtop the existing plywood
* Wait for sale on Vintage or other appropriate product while living the life of plywood floors
* Install product (3.25" or 5" planks, 3/4" or 5/8") when received overtop of clean floor and wax paper (cleat nailed install)
* Source and install matching original baseboard for master bedroom (bedroom 2 and landing have original 9" baseboard)

The floor seems to be level enough but not completely true; I don't plan on truing it, just shipping/planing low/high spots as needed. Products I am thinking of are very slightly redish brown/mocha white oak, hand scraped, engineered, matte finish. I think I prefer the 3.25" strip look but harder and harder to get these days.

Any thoughts/comments?
You're on the right track but if you remove existing 3/8" and you're putting new subfloor, I still recommend screwing each individual plank. Gluing new plywood works well but if there's any squeaks, they may still be there after all done. The glue will bond the ply to the planks but not to the joists and with older houses and straight spikes that's where the squeaks come from.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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hoob wrote:
Nov 16th, 2017 6:51 pm
I picked up a sample at Darmaga Hardwood for a Vintage product, oddly enough it's not listed on their website, yet?

Sculpted is basically the machine version of hand-scraped where the surface is given a wavy pattern. NSS is the fully Canadian product as well which I prefer. I really like the somewhat coarse feel of the finish, no gloss/slip at all.

Will get a quote from Darmaga on Friday (when I return their 5 sample panels) but is $8/sf the range I should be looking for? I will peruse the thread for other mentions, but any specific suppliers to get a quote from, as well?
If you are looking for a handscraped product most of it comes in Solid Sawn which I personally prefer over NSS, the boards are just more rigid. Everybody will have different pricing but once you decide on the product you want, you just have to call around for best pricing.
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macwhitby wrote:
Nov 15th, 2017 10:02 am
Hello,
I'm looking forward to remove old carpets from my 3 bedrooms and one living room (Approx 900 Sq Ft) and install solid hardwood. I live in Whitby, Durham region. Could you suggest anyone to instal and where is the best place to buy solid hardwood? Is there any specific style or manufacture to look for ?
Note: I have 2 toddlers but no pets.... One of our bedroom is above garage, anything to take care ?
I recommend engineered hardwood over solid but it's up to you. With toddlers I don't recommend maple or smooth high gloss finish. Look for something with busy grain like oak or hickory or distressed/wirebrushed finish.
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patrob wrote:
Nov 17th, 2017 1:40 pm
You're on the right track but if you remove existing 3/8" and you're putting new subfloor, I still recommend screwing each individual plank. Gluing new plywood works well but if there's any squeaks, they may still be there after all done. The glue will bond the ply to the planks but not to the joists and with older houses and straight spikes that's where the squeaks come from.
Yup, that was the intent. Sacrificed a small closet floor to check and it turns out it's not 3/8" but 1/4" + glue on tile. I won't wanna know about that tile.. .

Image

Gonna be a slow messy process. But I'm between jobs right now so time is something I have.
Revolutionary times must on occasion make do with considerable abridgements in order to accentuate the political line more strongly.
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hoob wrote:
Nov 16th, 2017 6:51 pm
Will get a quote from Darmaga on Friday (when I return their 5 sample panels) but is $8/sf the range I should be looking for? I will peruse the thread for other mentions, but any specific suppliers to get a quote from, as well?
Bought Vintage Rift & Quarter sawn wire brushed engineered white oak a few months back for $9.15 so I think between $7.50 and $8.50 is probably right.
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Sep 11, 2013
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Vaughan
I need a cheap laminate to replace carpet in a house I'm preparing to sell. Any recommendations on places to buy from?
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edge1986 wrote:
Nov 19th, 2017 12:58 pm
I need a cheap laminate to replace carpet in a house I'm preparing to sell. Any recommendations on places to buy from?
You actually have to go from store to store & see what everyone has & what prices they offer. You can also try big box stores.
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hoob wrote:
Nov 17th, 2017 2:24 pm
Yup, that was the intent. Sacrificed a small closet floor to check and it turns out it's not 3/8" but 1/4" + glue on tile. I won't wanna know about that tile.. .

Gonna be a slow messy process. But I'm between jobs right now so time is something I have.
Nice, have fun :D
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hoob wrote:
Nov 15th, 2017 11:10 am
Here's the space I'm working with, total area about 320sf:

Image
Patrob, can you confirm my planned technique is good:

* Home line base on the outside (left) wall
* Do the math for plank width and set home line at proper distance so stair tread nosing can be used as is
* What standard riser thickness should I presume when lining up the nosing (stairs will be done after) 1/2, 5/8, or 3/4?
* Rip the first row of boards as needed based on resulting home line (the outside wall is a bit wobbly anyway so basically scribing to it)
* Surface nail the first/ripped row
* Install left to right up to the nosing
* Transition or reducer as required to match up to the tile in the bathroom (I think it will be about 1/4" lower)
* For the nosing, bury on end under the door trim, and cut the other end at 45 degrees
* Should I surface nail and glue the nosing pieces? I'm thinking yes based on what I've read?
* Complete the open side of the staircase with another piece of nosing with another small nub at the end to round off
* Build out the rooms on each side independently

* What technique is recommended to solidly join the 90 degree nosing miter -- I'm not set up to do any biscuit joinery. I was thinking to drill some holes slightly larger than some small hardwood pegs, and will with PL/dowel and set in place and align and let the glue/hole/dowels solidify tightly.

Top of stairs nosing area before prep:

Image

As usual thanks for the ongoing input and consideration and advice for this thread.. In about two weeks exactly, you'll hit the 10th Anniversary (threadiversary?) -- I hope you have some fine bubbly planned or something ;)
Revolutionary times must on occasion make do with considerable abridgements in order to accentuate the political line more strongly.
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Is it true that for wider planks (like more than 5") that gluing down is an absolute must? I'm considering a mercier 6.5" product and I've heard conflicting opinions...
Newbie
Nov 22, 2017
1 posts
Hello. I need some helping finding a hard wood floor trim. I live in a rental and my dog chewed part of the floor, so I need to repair it.

Image

Does anyone know where I can find something like this? I it flat and very thin. I went to Rona and Home Depot but they dont have anything similar.
Any help or advice is much appreciated!

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