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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

[OP]
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caddie444 wrote:
Feb 5th, 2018 2:13 pm
Hello everyone,

Looking into some engineered hardwood flooring to replace some older hardwood in our current home.

Has anyone had any experience with Mannington flooring products? We're looking at these two engineered hardwoods specifically:

1) https://www.mannington.com/Residential/ ... 7LAV1.aspx

cheapest I could find is $8.58 per sq/f

2) https://www.mannington.com/Residential/ ... /MSN07BIS1

cheapest I could find is $8.99 per sq/f

Thanks!
Sorry not familiar with this particular brand and price is pretty high. If I'm spending that kind of money, why don't you go with a known brand like Vintage Solid Sawn engineered made locally? They carry a lot of different species, finishes and widths and quality is #1!
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[OP]
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morez55 wrote:
Feb 5th, 2018 10:17 pm
I am undecided whether to install laminate or hardwood in my basement. My contractor told me he could get both and the hardwood will cost around $1.50-1.75 (material and install) more per Sq. ft. Are there any other considerations such as any disadvantage of having hardwood in the basement compared to laminate - it will be a legal basement apartment and I do have insurance coverage? thanks
Only if it's engineered hardwood not solid. Laminate will be more durable especially if you are renting but the final decision is yours.
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patrob wrote:
Feb 6th, 2018 9:00 pm
Sorry not familiar with this particular brand and price is pretty high. If I'm spending that kind of money, why don't you go with a known brand like Vintage Solid Sawn engineered made locally? They carry a lot of different species, finishes and widths and quality is #1!
Thanks for the reply. I have checked out the Vintage brand you recommended, but cannot find exactly what I am looking for.

Can you recommend an engineered hardwood floor that resembles something like these styles:

http://nandtec.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... t-hall.jpg

http://vnboy.info/wp-content/uploads/20 ... ite-15.jpg

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A5xaAVfZUhY/ ... G_2108.JPG

https://www.mannington.com/-/media/Imag ... e_Lava.jpg

Thanks for the help
[OP]
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caddie444 wrote:
Feb 6th, 2018 9:44 pm
Thanks for the reply. I have checked out the Vintage brand you recommended, but cannot find exactly what I am looking for.

Can you recommend an engineered hardwood floor that resembles something like these styles:

http://nandtec.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... t-hall.jpg

http://vnboy.info/wp-content/uploads/20 ... ite-15.jpg

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A5xaAVfZUhY/ ... G_2108.JPG

https://www.mannington.com/-/media/Imag ... e_Lava.jpg

Thanks for the help
You should go to an actual dealer and see real samples, they do have similar styles in wide planks. Otherwise look into Hakwood or Monarch Plank but be prepared for a higher price!
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nourel wrote:
Jan 29th, 2018 11:53 pm
Hey guys. I'm about to embark on a DIY flooring project. I currently have carpet onto of parquet. Going to do this the right way and rip out the carpet and parquet and install laminate directly on the base floor. I googled around for tools and would like to know if these will be enough for floor and stairs:

Miter saw
Stair tread gauge (make it myself)
Rubber mallet
Nail gun

I also noticed some videos add a plastic protection cover between the floor and laminate, do you guys think it's good to do that ? Or is it based on certain situation where you need to add it ?
If you are installing laminate, you may not need to remove the parquet, you can install on top of it. Some laminate comes with preinstalled underlay, others will need additional underlay so confirm with the flooring store where you're buying from. If installation is above ground and not on concrete, then you will not need any plastic protection. You may need some additional tools.
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patrob wrote:
Feb 7th, 2018 9:51 pm
If you are installing laminate, you may not need to remove the parquet, you can install on top of it. Some laminate comes with preinstalled underlay, others will need additional underlay so confirm with the flooring store where you're buying from. If installation is above ground and not on concrete, then you will not need any plastic protection. You may need some additional tools.
I see thanks a lot for the info patrob. I assume the same info about plastic protection applies to hardwood flooring ?

I have also seen some guides glue the floors together when they put them together, is that over kill or something to actually do ?
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Feb 18, 2013
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Scarborough
Hi Patrob,

Is it necessary to remove parquet flooring if we plan on installing engineered hardwood in its place? Or can we simply put it on top?

thanks
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nourel wrote:
Feb 8th, 2018 11:11 am
I see thanks a lot for the info patrob. I assume the same info about plastic protection applies to hardwood flooring ?

I have also seen some guides glue the floors together when they put them together, is that over kill or something to actually do ?
Different underlays apply for different types of flooring and where it's going. No plastic under hardwood! Click type laminates are not supposed to be glued.
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caddie444 wrote:
Feb 9th, 2018 2:36 pm
Hi Patrob,

Is it necessary to remove parquet flooring if we plan on installing engineered hardwood in its place? Or can we simply put it on top?

thanks
Depending how thick the new hardwood is, what is the height of parquet and tile now and what will be the height difference later? And are you floating or nailing the hardwood? All that will determine if you should remove the parquet.
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There is currently a promo going on at local flooring store. 4.64$ a sweet foot for Wickham Canadian plus maple flooring. Was wondering if anyone wanted to chime in on quality. Located near MTL. Thanks.
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Nov 17, 2013
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Mississauga, ON
kcirtap78 wrote:
Feb 9th, 2018 11:10 pm
There is currently a promo going on at local flooring store. 4.64$ a sweet foot for Wickham Canadian plus maple flooring. Was wondering if anyone wanted to chime in on quality. Located near MTL. Thanks.
From my experience Wickham doesn’t have the best milling, even had some batches replaced and still more then 5% had issues. Haven’t installed any of their products in over a year though so not sure if they improved. I would stick with Superior or Vintage, otherwise Mercier, Lauzon, or preverco.
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I was hoping some of you pro installers could help me out. I am in the process of of figuring out how to start my hardwood floor install.... I will be doing room 1 and hallway first.... Room 2 will be done after as i still need to remove parquet from that room. I have removed hallway and room 1 (nursey). Wife says i cant remove room 2 till i finish room 1 and hallway. Question is where do i start? included a pic of my plan...thanks
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[OP]
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kcirtap78 wrote:
Feb 12th, 2018 8:23 pm
I was hoping some of you pro installers could help me out. I am in the process of of figuring out how to start my hardwood floor install.... I will be doing room 1 and hallway first.... Room 2 will be done after as i still need to remove parquet from that room. I have removed hallway and room 1 (nursey). Wife says i cant remove room 2 till i finish room 1 and hallway. Question is where do i start? included a pic of my plan...thanks
Always looks best if you start with a full piece at the nosing and work your way to the rooms. Also remember to install it across the joists if possible.
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patrob wrote:
Feb 12th, 2018 10:13 pm
Always looks best if you start with a full piece at the nosing and work your way to the rooms. Also remember to install it across the joists if possible.
yes floor will be installed accross joists. Just wasn't sure if i would start in the room or hallways... Hallways now makes more sence... Updated my picture :)
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patrob wrote:
Feb 12th, 2018 10:13 pm
Always looks best if you start with a full piece at the nosing and work your way to the rooms. Also remember to install it across the joists if possible.
2 more questions for you. We have seatled on 3/4 maple 3 1/4 wide. Question. Will 18ga 2 inch Brad nails be ok for first row? Second question cleats vs Staples. Subfloor is 5/8 plywood. Thanks b

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