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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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Apr 17, 2005
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Brampton
kcirtap78 wrote:
Feb 19th, 2018 6:34 pm
2 more questions for you. We have seatled on 3/4 maple 3 1/4 wide. Question. Will 18ga 2 inch Brad nails be ok for first row? Second question cleats vs Staples. Subfloor is 5/8 plywood. Thanks b
18 gauge is perfectly fine for starting and finishing rows, just shoot couple extra. Regardless of flooring type, cleats are preferred.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Aug 21, 2006
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patrob wrote:
Feb 19th, 2018 6:40 pm
18 gauge is perfectly fine for starting and finishing rows, just shoot couple extra. Regardless of flooring type, cleats are preferred.
Thanks for all the info. I appreciate it. Have a good one. :).
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Mar 7, 2006
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Milton
Looking for a good installer and source in the Milton area, so please recommend! We really like Twelve Oaks engineered (really into White Oak - Lancer). Areas are about 250 sq foot on the 2nd floor and 800 in the basement.

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Apr 24, 2012
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Markham, ON
My apologies if this was already asked and answered in the last 642 pages. The hardwood in my house (built in 1983), is very creeky sounding in certain areas. There is also a slight bounce to it since there may be a layer of thin sponge between the wood and floor. In one of the rooms, the previous owner nailed a row of nails along the wall (see images). The other image shows what it looks like a sunken portion beside the wall.

What is a good solution to fix this or at least reduce the creeky sound?
Images
  • IMG_20180227_155433.jpg
  • IMG_20180227_155513.jpg
  • IMG_20180227_155558.jpg
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Nov 17, 2013
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Mississauga, ON
lallamalaughs wrote:
Feb 27th, 2018 4:12 pm
My apologies if this was already asked and answered in the last 642 pages. The hardwood in my house (built in 1983), is very creeky sounding in certain areas. There is also a slight bounce to it since there may be a layer of thin sponge between the wood and floor. In one of the rooms, the previous owner nailed a row of nails along the wall (see images). The other image shows what it looks like a sunken portion beside the wall.

What is a good solution to fix this or at least reduce the creeky sound?
Looks like a floating floor which would explain the bounce (uneven subfloor)

Squeaking can be caused by the subfloor, joists, or the floor itself.

Its hard to tell the issue with just pictures, there could be many different reasons why you are having these issues but it most likely will not be an simple fix.
Newbie
Mar 3, 2018
3 posts
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Hi Patrob and all,

New this forum, gone through few pages.

We are planning to install hardwood floor in carpeted area around 575 Sq.Ft and recently got quote of 10500$ (total) for Perverco white oak barcelona (8.4$ / Sq.ft), which includes installation charges of 2.50 per sq.ft, and removal of carpet is 400$. we are not sure if this is reasonable price/quote, any suggestion please. we were told if other species of wood was choosen price may go down by 1 to 2 grand...

Could you please say if this quote is reasonable or high for wood spices chosen?
do you know any good installer in Markham/Richmond hill area that can do with reasonable price and quality?

Thanks for your time
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Jul 30, 2007
215 posts
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Vancouver, BC
Stumbled across this thread yesterday. Thumbs up! I've been reading back many pages and a lot of what I'm reading has confirmed my research. We are looking to install about 1,700 sq. ft of wire scraped, engineered hickory (1/2" x 7.5", low (5-8%) UV gloss) throughout the middle and top floors on top of plywood sub-floors. House is 20 years old with original carpet and tile. I will be pulling up the existing carpet and tile. The floors are fairly level but I fully expect the installer to have to do some leveling. I will also ask him to screw down the sub-floor throughout. We have a few squeaks. We also have a small dog (15lbs). We are looking at a Laurentian hardwood product. I will attach the spec sheet. A few questions please.

1) Any opinions on Laurentian as a manufacturer? We are choosing them at this point because we can access their product through our consumer shopping club. Our cost for this material is approx. $5.50 sq. ft.

2) Manufacturer states the floor can be stapled, glued or floated. We will have tenants below us. We are sock or slipper people anyway, but every little bit helps I guess. From what I've read, a floating floor with proper felt underlay will reduce the noise transfer significantly. Is this true and does it also help with the sometimes "hollow" feeling if the floor is not "perfectly" level in some spots?

3) Installation quotes are $2.25 sq. ft. for floating and $3.50 for glue or nail. We have long continuous runs, since the LR/DR are attached as are the Family Room/Eating Area/Kitchen. Also there is a fairly long hallway on both levels. Humidity is pretty consistent here in Vancouver. We will also have a powder room/laundry room/front entry/2 fireplace hearths with tile on the main floor and 2 tile baths upstairs. I also prefer a level (no T-Mold) transition. Which method would you recommend for this installation?

Thank you,
Bill
Laurentian-Belvedere.JPG
[OP]
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Apr 17, 2005
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Brampton
jvsgsaj wrote:
Mar 4th, 2018 11:03 am
Hi Patrob and all,

New this forum, gone through few pages.

We are planning to install hardwood floor in carpeted area around 575 Sq.Ft and recently got quote of 10500$ (total) for Perverco white oak barcelona (8.4$ / Sq.ft), which includes installation charges of 2.50 per sq.ft, and removal of carpet is 400$. we are not sure if this is reasonable price/quote, any suggestion please. we were told if other species of wood was choosen price may go down by 1 to 2 grand...

Could you please say if this quote is reasonable or high for wood spices chosen?
do you know any good installer in Markham/Richmond hill area that can do with reasonable price and quality?

Thanks for your time
There must be something else they added otherwise the price is too high. Do you have a written quote?
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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[OP]
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User avatar
Apr 17, 2005
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Brampton
rockychocbill wrote:
Mar 6th, 2018 1:12 pm
Stumbled across this thread yesterday. Thumbs up! I've been reading back many pages and a lot of what I'm reading has confirmed my research. We are looking to install about 1,700 sq. ft of wire scraped, engineered hickory (1/2" x 7.5", low (5-8%) UV gloss) throughout the middle and top floors on top of plywood sub-floors. House is 20 years old with original carpet and tile. I will be pulling up the existing carpet and tile. The floors are fairly level but I fully expect the installer to have to do some leveling. I will also ask him to screw down the sub-floor throughout. We have a few squeaks. We also have a small dog (15lbs). We are looking at a Laurentian hardwood product. I will attach the spec sheet. A few questions please.

1) Any opinions on Laurentian as a manufacturer? We are choosing them at this point because we can access their product through our consumer shopping club. Our cost for this material is approx. $5.50 sq. ft.

2) Manufacturer states the floor can be stapled, glued or floated. We will have tenants below us. We are sock or slipper people anyway, but every little bit helps I guess. From what I've read, a floating floor with proper felt underlay will reduce the noise transfer significantly. Is this true and does it also help with the sometimes "hollow" feeling if the floor is not "perfectly" level in some spots?

3) Installation quotes are $2.25 sq. ft. for floating and $3.50 for glue or nail. We have long continuous runs, since the LR/DR are attached as are the Family Room/Eating Area/Kitchen. Also there is a fairly long hallway on both levels. Humidity is pretty consistent here in Vancouver. We will also have a powder room/laundry room/front entry/2 fireplace hearths with tile on the main floor and 2 tile baths upstairs. I also prefer a level (no T-Mold) transition. Which method would you recommend for this installation?

Thank you,
Bill
They are not as good as they used to be but the price is very good. Over wooden subfloor prefer nail down installation over anything. I wouldn't bother with the underlay, some claim it but personally I don't see a significant difference in noise transfer. Usually the price for nail down is somewhere between floating and glue down but of course in Vancouver they charge whatever they want lol Be careful with floor "leveling", make it straight you might not make it level.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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patrob wrote:
Mar 6th, 2018 10:30 pm
They are not as good as they used to be but the price is very good. Over wooden subfloor prefer nail down installation over anything. I wouldn't bother with the underlay, some claim it but personally I don't see a significant difference in noise transfer. Usually the price for nail down is somewhere between floating and glue down but of course in Vancouver they charge whatever they want lol Be careful with floor "leveling", make it straight you might not make it level.
Thank you for the reply Patrob. Could you please elaborate a bit on the floor leveling. Installer is proposing using the self leveling thinset product. Is this not correct?
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Mar 3, 2018
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patrob wrote:
Mar 6th, 2018 10:19 pm
There must be something else they added otherwise the price is too high. Do you have a written quote?
Yes, i have a written quote.

Will send you additional details that i have missed, but in the mean time, could you please help me with following question:

1. With given information, what do you think should be the reasonable price then?

2. do you know any good installer in Markham/Richmond hill area that can do
with reasonable price and quality?

Thanks a lot for your help.
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rockychocbill wrote:
Mar 7th, 2018 11:42 am
Thank you for the reply Patrob. Could you please elaborate a bit on the floor leveling. Installer is proposing using the self leveling thinset product. Is this not correct?
Self leveling is only good for up to 1/4" maybe 3/8". On wooden subfloor with flex on the subfloor and wood, it may crack into pieces after sometime. It's good only for low spots/dips in small areas. I would rather concentrate on sanding off high spots to make it look flat but the floor doesn't have to be perfectly level.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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patrob wrote:
Mar 7th, 2018 6:21 pm
Self leveling is only good for up to 1/4" maybe 3/8". On wooden subfloor with flex on the subfloor and wood, it may crack into pieces after sometime. It's good only for low spots/dips in small areas. I would rather concentrate on sanding off high spots to make it look flat but the floor doesn't have to be perfectly level.
This makes sense and " might" save me money at $90 bag, although there is labour cost in sanding the floor of course. Thank you for the advice. I will discuss with the contractor and make sure we follow it.

Are most self leveling products the same? Any brand preference?
Thank you.
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rockychocbill wrote:
Mar 7th, 2018 7:56 pm
This makes sense and " might" save me money at $90 bag, although there is labour cost in sanding the floor of course. Thank you for the advice. I will discuss with the contractor and make sure we follow it.

Are most self leveling products the same? Any brand preference?
Thank you.
Unfortunately I can't recommend any specific brand.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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Jul 13, 2006
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Hello my fellow RFDers,

We are moving into a new house and wanted to replace the carpet on the 2nd floor with hardwood to match the staircase and our 1st floor. With all the mounting expenses, we are not really looking to spend more than $3.50 - 4.00 sq. ft.

This is the colour we want at 3.25":

Image

Image

and need around $650-700 sqft total. We were quoted $4.60 per sq. ft. for this wood/brand. Anyone can suggest a retailer that can sell same colour/grade for a lower price that fits within out budget? Willing to pay cash.

Thank you!

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