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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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Sep 4, 2006
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patrob wrote:
Jun 11th, 2018 10:09 pm
Brazillian cherry in natural finish (unstained) has a variety of colours so if your floors are majority in reddish brown, that's the stain you should choose for your stairs or slightly darker. Pickets you can always paint white or replace. They are extremely hard to refinish unless they are square. Never used Costco engineered hardwood so can't say anything about it. Some say yes but personally I don't see any benefits of adding any acoustic underlay under nailed down floors! It works better if you float it. You will hear more sound transfer through the empty walls and flimsy doors than through the subfloor.
Thanks for replying patob. Yes, my main floor is majority reddish brown. Why do people have stair with hardwood and paint the bottom of the stair white? Is that just for trendyness or is it cheaper that way than having full hardwood.
When buying harwood, do you go with width or thickness of wood. How would you rate the costco engineered wood i mentioned in my post.?

Thanks
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Patrob

I would appreciate your view on the best products for refinishing a sanded oak hardwood floor. After sanding I wish to darken the color (penetrating stain?) and then apply a satin finish for wear protection. The previous finish yellowed so I would need a new finish that will not yellow. Is there an all in one product available and if so will the result be similar? Any execution tips would be greatly appreciated.
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The carpet we are replacing has some urine spots due to an older dog. My plan is to spray with Nature's Miracle and let dry. Then roll Killz Max, 1 or 2 coats as required. It gets excellent reviews online. Anyone deal with this before?
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sailplane wrote:
Jun 11th, 2018 11:20 pm
Makes sense. Any stores you would recommend for buying quality wood separately without install?
I'm thinking to still go by Hardwood Giant. They said they carry Lauzon and many other manufacturers. I think Lauzon should be pretty good quality at 'select or better' grade?

I bought some hardwood from Lowes and it's not the greatest quality and grade at all, and they sell it for $5/sq foot.
Lauzon sounds better. I can't recommend any particular store but you can't go wrong with Vintage, Mirage, Superior, etc. So look at the manufacturer website for dealer list in your area.
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retireat50 wrote:
Jun 12th, 2018 12:02 am
Considering laminate - either "Contractors Choice" Notting Hill 12mm AC4 floor which is a Taiga product or a Kronopol 8mm floor which is on sale. I easily scratched the Kronopol and with dogs I could see it getting scratched up easily but the $1.18 price per SF is tempting.

Any experience with either?

We found one installer who is a journeyman carpenter right out of school and he has done a "handful" of laminate jobs. Should I be looking for someone more experienced? I would think laminate should be very easy for a carpenter
Most laminates are easy to DIY so your installer may be fine. If you were able to scratch it very easily, I would not even bother with that product regardless of price.
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sandyriver wrote:
Jun 12th, 2018 7:09 am
Thanks for replying patob. Yes, my main floor is majority reddish brown. Why do people have stair with hardwood and paint the bottom of the stair white? Is that just for trendyness or is it cheaper that way than having full hardwood.
When buying harwood, do you go with width or thickness of wood. How would you rate the costco engineered wood i mentioned in my post.?

Thanks
Actually two tone stairs are more labour intensive. The sides and risers most of the time are paper veneer and are hard or impossible to sand or to change colour. Therefore painting white might be a safer solution but at the same time, it gives you a different look. Wider planks are preferred, 3 1/4" is pretty much standard width now. For solid hardwood I would definitely choose 3/4" thickness but with engineered 1/2" or thicker. But you have to look at thicker veneers, IMO 3 mm or better. Never used Costco hardwood so don't have an opinion.
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Martin (deal addict) wrote:
Jun 12th, 2018 7:55 am
Patrob

I would appreciate your view on the best products for refinishing a sanded oak hardwood floor. After sanding I wish to darken the color (penetrating stain?) and then apply a satin finish for wear protection. The previous finish yellowed so I would need a new finish that will not yellow. Is there an all in one product available and if so will the result be similar? Any execution tips would be greatly appreciated.
So you're looking at total refinishing so it means hiring a professional with the proper equipment. Refinishing a floor is not an easy task, it has to be sanded down to bare wood with no scratch marks (from sanding machine) or gouges, has to be flat for best results. The stain will enhance every little scratch. IMO Bona has best finishes. It's all water based, dries fast and non yellowing. But of course it comes at a cost. As for stains, Duraseal is a pretty good stain, use products with low or zero VOCs.
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patrob wrote:
Jun 13th, 2018 11:42 pm
So you're looking at total refinishing so it means hiring a professional with the proper equipment. Refinishing a floor is not an easy task, it has to be sanded down to bare wood with no scratch marks (from sanding machine) or gouges, has to be flat for best results. The stain will enhance every little scratch. IMO Bona has best finishes. It's all water based, dries fast and non yellowing. But of course it comes at a cost. As for stains, Duraseal is a pretty good stain, use products with low or zero VOCs.
The floor I am doing is an old rustic uneven floor with varying thickness and width oak pieces with a wider feature jojnt (square), so unfortunately not suitable for a large reciprocating or drum sander. Thank you for the heads up on Bona and Duraseal products.
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LionHardwoodFlooring wrote:
Apr 29th, 2018 8:25 am
I would be careful shopping there. YMMV but I have lots of horror stories about this place.
Horror stories about Amazon Hardwood Centre, the store? Or Deerwood Lumber, the manufacturer?
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Thanks for the response patrob. I have decided to go with laminate for the upstair bedrooms with the costco technoflex underlayment. It costs 3750 labor and materials all included for around 682 sqft. For the stairs, going with oak hardwood. Riser also stained oak color. Keeping the oak railings and pickets as is. So for 25 steps both going up and the one going down to basement is costing me 4800 labour and materials included.
The thing is the steps we have has the triangle turns whichis costing more according to the installer.

Does the price fall into the ball park? This installer had finished our basement 10 yrs back and we were very happy with the work. Thats why we called him for quote again.
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iEyeCaptain wrote:
May 29th, 2018 10:28 am
For the layman, is it easy to tell that a hardwood is 3/4 inch or 1/2 inch? There seems to be significant savings by going with 1/2 inch.

Also for the layman, is it easy to tell the difference between engineered and pure hardwood?
You cannot determine the thickness by looking at it, unless you first had 3/4 inch and then went down to 1/2 inch and the baseboards were not re-done.

I guess I'm a layman but I've looked at a lot of flooring products and had a lot of flooring issues in the past, so I can definitely tell the difference between engineered and solid. Most people won't know with higher end products. The way tell is to lift up one of the floor heating vent covers and look at the side profile of the wood. Here, you can definitively determine if it's engineered or solid.
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Dec 20, 2006
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Hello, I'm looking to replace about 1600 sq ft of parquet flooring on first and second floor with hardwood. What is a reasonable cost of labour to remove and dispose of existing flooring and install new hardwood and baseboards?
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Asher wrote:
Jun 15th, 2018 11:08 pm
Hello, I'm looking to replace about 1600 sq ft of parquet flooring on first and second floor with hardwood. What is a reasonable cost of labour to remove and dispose of existing flooring and install new hardwood and baseboards?
There is no one price for all, everyone will charge different prices so get a quote or two. You can't estimate removal of parquet, sometimes you can remove a room in an hour and other times it might take a whole day depending what glue was used!
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sandyriver wrote:
Jun 14th, 2018 9:31 pm
Thanks for the response patrob. I have decided to go with laminate for the upstair bedrooms with the costco technoflex underlayment. It costs 3750 labor and materials all included for around 682 sqft. For the stairs, going with oak hardwood. Riser also stained oak color. Keeping the oak railings and pickets as is. So for 25 steps both going up and the one going down to basement is costing me 4800 labour and materials included.
The thing is the steps we have has the triangle turns whichis costing more according to the installer.

Does the price fall into the ball park? This installer had finished our basement 10 yrs back and we were very happy with the work. Thats why we called him for quote again.
Price sounds fair. Good luck with your project Thumbs Up Sign
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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I am planning my total home reno and debating between hardwood vs engineered wood.
Any suggestion?
Also, Made in Canada vs Made in China one are almost 30% different in price. are Made in China one bad choice?

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