It seems like all the big box stores only sell prefinished products. Do I have to go look at lumber yard/lumber mills?
It seems like the prices are almost the same for finished or unfinished?
Jan 9th, 2019 9:44 am
Jan 9th, 2019 1:00 pm
There are a ton of stores, but you wouldn't go to the big box stores. Go to a real flooring store, they'll be able to hook you up easily.
Jan 9th, 2019 10:03 pm
vedder311 wrote: ↑Jan 4th, 2019 7:02 pmHi guys, hopefully somebody can give me an answer on this.
I finished my basement 10 year ago and when I did I installed 18mm laminate flooring 1600 sq feet of it, I did not put in a sub floor just foam underlayment. A year later I installed a gas fireplace in one of the corners of the room for some extra heat as it's a large basement.
Well 3 years ago I noticed some of the boards separating at the ends near the entrance to my basement which is completely opposite of where the fireplace is installed. It was very minor, and was only during the winter month, once summer came they went back together. Each year since then it has become progressively worse. Well this year I noticed that the flooring by the fireplace is wavy and bubbled like it has gotten wet, but it hasn't, there is no dampness there at all, it appears to be dried out possibly because of the fireplace and has shrunk very tight hence separating the floor in other areas of the basement. Does this make sense?
Either or it looks like I will have to replace 1600 sq feet of flooring. From a couple of people I have spoken to Ive been told; it's cause you don't have a subfloor; its cause you cant use hard work or laminate in a basement because of humidity, only use vinyl or tile; it's faulty flooring....
So before I go any further I need to figure out what caused this and how to not have it happen again, any help is appreciated, please post or pm me. I will take some pics and post them shortly.
Jan 9th, 2019 10:07 pm
patrob wrote: ↑Jan 4th, 2019 9:15 pmEvery milling company will have their own specific cut for T&G. The reputable manufacturers may have a stamp on the back but most don't so you may be simply out of luck. If you are extending to another area, you may be able to re-cut the groove to fit existing tongue or vice versa. Same for repair, cut the tongue off but this may not always work as the width and height might be different.
Jan 9th, 2019 11:46 pm
Do you remember how much you paid per sq feet for unfinished floor material wise? I've seen from almost 5$ cad per sq/ft all the way down to 2$ for liquidation flooring stores. 5$ is almost as high as pre-finished flooring.grumble wrote: ↑Jan 9th, 2019 1:00 pmThere are a ton of stores, but you wouldn't go to the big box stores. Go to a real flooring store, they'll be able to hook you up easily.
For what it's worth, I got site-finished floors installed (a requirement as I was also refinishing some old hardwood to match). My family simultaneously got a premium pre-finished floor put in.
It's a pain to put in, you have to stain and coat it, which takes a while to do and dry while pre-finished is done and walked on in a day;
Durability could be a bit worse. High quality site finished coats can be quite good with a two-part oxide embedded catalyzed formula, but pre-finished use a UV-cured system that typically results in more hard-wearing finishes.
I still have no regrets, because it looks a lot better! Pre-finished boards are finished as individual planks, and aren't sanded on site. This requires bevels and tiny gaps between boards. Site-finished is installed, sanded to be perfectly level across, then coated as a floor. This creates this single sheet effect that looks very premium. Some darker finishes on pre-finished boards can also flash the gaps at an angle if the finish isn't applied the right way in the factory.
Make sure that when you get them coated, they use a GOOD PRODUCT. It's a big difference in terms of appearance and durability. Products like Bona Traffic HD, Loba 2K Supra AT, Glitsa, etc.
Jan 10th, 2019 8:16 am
If I recall, I ordered about 450sqft of flooring, 3 1/4 inch width, 3/4 inch thickness red oak, select grade (the nicer one, not the common 1 grade often used), plain sawn and it was in the 3.70 range per sqft. That was part of a package that also included installation and some refinishing (not part of the 3.70, the 3.70 was a line item) - the guys I used weren't the cheapest but used high quality products and came highly recommended, with a good result.
Jan 11th, 2019 9:09 pm
Sorry I do not recall and unfortunately I threw out all the boxes, otherwise I'd be going back to the company to complain, pretty sure it had a 25 year warranty. Also bought it at a flooring store that isn't around any more.
Jan 11th, 2019 10:55 pm
I will recommend Torlys and even better, Torlys vinyl planks!raomanoj2004 wrote: ↑Jan 9th, 2019 10:07 pm@Patrob, Last time I talked to you was around 2 year and you guided me to buy quality hardwood like Mirage. I am pretty happy with quality. Now I am finishing my basement and need advise for laminate flooring. There are so many brands but not sure which one is good. Thanks in advance
Jan 11th, 2019 10:57 pm
Anything from $2.99 sq ft and up depending on grade and size.
Jan 11th, 2019 11:17 pm
Thanks Patrob, We went to costco to see laminate based on some reviews here and we liked one Dark brown (winchester) as shown in image (thanks adblink182 for sharing this pic). I see mixed review for costco laminate.
Jan 14th, 2019 11:12 am
Jan 15th, 2019 9:48 pm
Jan 17th, 2019 9:56 pm
Jan 17th, 2019 10:17 pm
There's no decent hardwood for $3.50 sq ft! Go to few local hardwood flooring stores and see what's there. But anything decent especially for engineered hardwood will start at well over $5 sq ft.megadeth1 wrote: ↑Jan 14th, 2019 11:12 amWe have carpets throughout (dark brown oak hardwood staircase though), looking to replace approximate 1200 sqft with engineered hardwood instead, what is a budget friendly brand/store to recommend?
We went to a few flooring centres, they offered some stuff around 3.50/ft but I wasn't convinced by the quality. Also, we are trying to match the hardwood staircase, if not the design then at least colour or a contrasting colour that would work well. Wife's against white risers/pickets.
Jan 17th, 2019 10:20 pm
If you are thinking of going that far, install the plywood on top 5/8" and then float it. I would not nail the hardwood in the basement. But if you really want to have it nailed down then 3/4" plywood and use 1 3/4" cleats.emuu101 wrote: ↑Jan 17th, 2019 9:56 pmHuge fan of this thread!
I'm looking to install Vintage Solid Sawn engineered hardwood in the basement (to match my hardwood on the upper levels). For the subfloor, I'm thinking of using DMX Airflow. According to DMX, I should be able to float the engineered hardwood directly on top without the need of an additional layer of OSB or plywood. In this situation, I would need float the hardwood - any concerns here?
Optionally, I was considering adding OSB or plywood and nailing it down. Do you think 5/8" plywood is thick enough so that the nails do not go through or do I need to go 3/4"?
Would you recommend having the flooring nailed or floating.