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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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patrob wrote:
May 16th, 2019 10:20 pm
The biggest problem with Preverco engineered is dry de-lamination. If you lower the humidity slightly below recommended = problems! Noticed also fair amount of inconsistent colour.
What?? Isn’t the point of engineered that the humidity tolerance is much wider?!
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poorwingman wrote:
May 16th, 2019 10:45 pm
What?? Isn’t the point of engineered that the humidity tolerance is much wider?!
Yes it is but the new homes are a lot more energy efficient and most homeowners are too cheap to install a humidifier. So during winter months the humidity in the houses is around 15-20% which is way too low. Here are two pics of Preverco de-lamination at low RH levels below 20%. You can see the top veneer layer totally separated from the core and you could easily remove it by hand.
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patrob wrote:
May 16th, 2019 11:05 pm
Yes it is but the new homes are a lot more energy efficient and most homeowners are too cheap to install a humidifier. So during winter months the humidity in the houses is around 15-20% which is way too low. Here are two pics of Preverco de-lamination at low RH levels below 20%. You can see the top veneer layer totally separated from the core and you could easily remove it by hand.
Hmm.. Agreed that 15-20% is way too low. But it seems like Preverco's engineered hw also has a recommended humidity of 37%-50%. Isn't that basically the same as regular hardwood?
Source:
https://www.preverco.com/sites/default/ ... n-v1_0.pdf
https://www.preverco.com/sites/default/ ... -an-v1.pdf

On the other hand, Torleys supersolid goes from 20-70%! https://residential.torlys.com/wp-conte ... ay2017.pdf
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lak8 wrote:
May 11th, 2019 4:57 pm
Wondering if you also heard of "opal creek" flooring. Can't find many reviews on it.
I did some more research and it seem to be made or atleast processed by armstrong flooring. what do you think of armstrong flooring?
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poorwingman wrote:
May 17th, 2019 8:24 am
Hmm.. Agreed that 15-20% is way too low. But it seems like Preverco's engineered hw also has a recommended humidity of 37%-50%. Isn't that basically the same as regular hardwood?
Source:
https://www.preverco.com/sites/default/ ... n-v1_0.pdf
https://www.preverco.com/sites/default/ ... -an-v1.pdf

On the other hand, Torleys supersolid goes from 20-70%! https://residential.torlys.com/wp-conte ... ay2017.pdf
Yes those are RH levels recommended for solid.
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lak8 wrote:
May 18th, 2019 8:10 am
I did some more research and it seem to be made or atleast processed by armstrong flooring. what do you think of armstrong flooring?
Look at Vintage, not a fan of Armstrong.
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May 20, 2019
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I have a 3 storey townhouse that is about 15yrs old. From basement i can see that the sub floor on the floor above is OSB...any problems installing engineered or solid hardwood flooring? I don't want surprises once I get someone to install the hardwood flooring and needing additional layer of plywood and of course their labour.
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creative77 wrote:
May 21st, 2019 3:45 pm
I have a 3 storey townhouse that is about 15yrs old. From basement i can see that the sub floor on the floor above is OSB...any problems installing engineered or solid hardwood flooring? I don't want surprises once I get someone to install the hardwood flooring and needing additional layer of plywood and of course their labour.
As per most manufacturers, 3/4 OSB is equivalent to 5/8" plywood but IMO if you have 12" or 16" oc joists and OSB is in good condition, you should not have a problem. Personally recommended engineered to minimize movement and make sure it's nailed more frequently.
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We had the pleasure of having Robert install hardwood flooring in our townhouse recently, just wanted to share my experience here.

We went with Vintage 5" NSS engineered hardwood (white oak Apollo, UV urethane oil finish) based largely on all the good things said about the company and product in this thread. This was a good decision, the wood is beautiful and if I'm not mistaken there were no rejected boards out of 11 boxes.

I removed the old flooring (carpet, underlay, tack strip, staples), undercut the drywall, and cleaned/screwed down the subfloor. I had initially considered installing the flooring myself but I got spooked with the flatness (or lack thereof) of the subfloor. I contacted Robert and was lucky that he was willing/able to squeeze the job into his busy schedule. After watching him do his thing there is no doubt in my mind that hiring a pro for the flooring installation was the right decision.

The amount of work he put in to improve the flatness of the subfloor tells me he prioritizes doing the job properly over getting it done quickly. The flooring installation itself looks incredible and the attention to detail in the nosing to the stairs and the reducer to the tiled bathroom is top notch. Plus, he's a great guy to talk to and appreciates a good coffee.

From what I understand these kinds of installations are very rare for him these days. Nonetheless, if you are planning a hardwood flooring project and can do some/all of the prep work yourself, it's worth sending him a message.
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Jun 24, 2018
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Brampton
So I bought this house and it has very nicely done hardwood. I don't like the color of it however (some dark cherry red osrt of shade). How much would it cost to get the stain changed? The area should be less than 800 sq ft (for the segments covered with hardwood.
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May 20, 2019
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anyone heard of american oak (manufacturer) for engineered hardwood...9/16 thick engineered wood - 3mm veneer on plywood core or the falcon flooring 2mm veneer 3/4 thick plywood core
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Dec 26, 2006
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Edit - Found my exact flooring. No worries. Thanks.

Hi @patrob. I recently tore down a wall and need to patch the floor but i'm having a hard time finding planks that match. Previous owners never left any spare pieces and I would estimate that the floor was installed in 2009, if that helps at all. Where would you recommend to find 4-1/4" x 7/16" oak engineered click lock flooring? Seems like a rare size. Is it possible to get unfinished planks so I could stain them myself for a better colour match?

I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
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nonlinear wrote:
May 22nd, 2019 2:22 pm
We had the pleasure of having Robert install hardwood flooring in our townhouse recently, just wanted to share my experience here.

We went with Vintage 5" NSS engineered hardwood (white oak Apollo, UV urethane oil finish) based largely on all the good things said about the company and product in this thread. This was a good decision, the wood is beautiful and if I'm not mistaken there were no rejected boards out of 11 boxes.

I removed the old flooring (carpet, underlay, tack strip, staples), undercut the drywall, and cleaned/screwed down the subfloor. I had initially considered installing the flooring myself but I got spooked with the flatness (or lack thereof) of the subfloor. I contacted Robert and was lucky that he was willing/able to squeeze the job into his busy schedule. After watching him do his thing there is no doubt in my mind that hiring a pro for the flooring installation was the right decision.

The amount of work he put in to improve the flatness of the subfloor tells me he prioritizes doing the job properly over getting it done quickly. The flooring installation itself looks incredible and the attention to detail in the nosing to the stairs and the reducer to the tiled bathroom is top notch. Plus, he's a great guy to talk to and appreciates a good coffee.

From what I understand these kinds of installations are very rare for him these days. Nonetheless, if you are planning a hardwood flooring project and can do some/all of the prep work yourself, it's worth sending him a message.
Thanks for the feedback and glad to hear you're happy with the final outcome Slightly Smiling Face And yes the coffee was great Ok Hand Sign
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SushantV19370 wrote:
May 24th, 2019 1:07 pm
So I bought this house and it has very nicely done hardwood. I don't like the color of it however (some dark cherry red osrt of shade). How much would it cost to get the stain changed? The area should be less than 800 sq ft (for the segments covered with hardwood.
Real pro charges around $3-$4 sq ft depending what's required. There are guys that are much cheaper but remember this is like painting a car, you will see every imperfection if not done right! Everything has to be empty off the floor and you cannot walk on the floor for few days. Otherwise replace the floors.
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Oct 2, 2007
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Our new floor sounds like rice krispies. Would really appreciate any comments.


(tons of details in the description)

Builders are pointing to humidity as the issue. Moisture content of floor is 6% (which seems fine after researching?).

Humidity of the house was a little dry in April 2019 around 33% @ 20c. Installed whole-house humidifier and has since been 43% @ 20c. No difference, problem seems worse.

A few other details
- Engineered hardwood (manufacturer Laurentian Hardwood)
- Subfloor is "subfloor grade" OSB. Could be a little flatter (some baseboard gaps)
- Floor installed with staples, unsure of gauge
- Wax paper as underlay
- Issue occurs in high traffic areas, little to no issue in areas that aren't regularly walked on.
- NS house, 5500sqft, forced air, possession April 1st 2019. No floor issues when purchased.

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