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The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

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wind13 wrote:
Jun 17th, 2019 12:49 pm
Installing carpets now everywhere to reap it completely of right away is about 8k of lost money, as the builder chargers at least 4$ per sq.f. (not inclusive the labor for removal). For that Laurentian hardwood, it comes to about 11$ per sq.f. including install and waste via builder (yes it can be done cheaper somewhere else), and to be honest, our maximum budget as of now is 12$ per sq.f. And the builder can consider go with another brand if we tell them which one would fit in our budget, but we simply do not know, there are too many of the hardwoods around, we really tried, but it is hard if you knew nothing a month ago. If we go that way with carpets we will be not able to afford any better hardwood afterward as it would leave us with 8$ per sq..f. money left and it is not much of hardwood varieties for that price, including labor. I am not sure I understand the rationale of the path with carpets...
Is hardwood standard then? When carpet is standard feature of the house, then the builder charges you additional $10-18 sq ft on top of the carpet cost. You will not get credit back for the carpet but you should definitely not be paying extra for it! If you are not sure what you want, therefore it might be best if you go directly with the builder for the hardwood.
The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread
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mkannuri wrote:
Jun 17th, 2019 3:11 pm
Hi @patrob, i just bumped into this thread as i started researching about home rennovation. Its 678 pages long and i am newbie in this field. Appreciate if there is any summary an be created for the types of flooring and approximate prices and any recommended places to begin with.

Myself i have around 550 sft main floor (total 1700) and planning to change the old hardwood floor along with tiles from entrance to all the way kitchen.
I am thinking of getting the hardwood installed for the entire floor including the kitchen area.
I stopped at costco and saw laminated floors (15mm) looks awsome for $1.99sft and expecting to get installed $2sft..which might end up costing under $3000.

But later on friends and family recommending, engineering wood, hardwood and venyl (water resistant) instead of laminating.
So my question is the costco laminating wood advertised at $1.99 is not good for my purpose (kitchen and entrance as well) ?
Should i go with Venyl or engineering hardwood ?
Which is best and reasonable option. dont have too much budge due to kitchen, washroom and concrete jobs at the same time.

Appreciate any insights in this regard.
Laminate is the cheapest option, then you go to vinyl and both of these products are more durable than hardwood but don't look as good! I personally will recommend engineered hardwood and better for future resale.
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anastasia1009 wrote:
Jun 18th, 2019 2:30 pm
Quick question about fixing orange stains parquet floors. I am renting a unit and one of the plants leaked, went through the carpet that it was on and left an orange stain and didn't know until it was way too late. I managed to remove some of the damage with a coarse sand paper but I need to do some work. Once I remove the varnish from the parquet floors, clean the floor do I just use the stain that matches the floor then use a clear finish. This is the damage so if anyone can give suggestions the floor... thanks
If the floor was stained previously, then yes you have to apply matching stain. And then varnish it. But old parquet floors were finished with oil base finish which yellows with time.
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Sedul wrote:
Jun 25th, 2019 11:29 pm
Hello,

I bought a house and looking to sand and refinish my main floor hardwood floor before moving in.

Anybody have some pointers and good guides to go about this?

Planning to do a rental of the equipment for the day: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/tool-a ... 09953.html

Thoughts Tips Advice appreciated.
The best advice I can give you is hire a professional.
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a70 wrote:
Jun 28th, 2019 12:15 am
I am replacing my floors. I removed all the hardwood and am left with plank flooring. House is from the 50s. The plank flooring is in good condition and the old floors only creaked a little bit.

I noticed there were some cuts made (as if someone ran a saw through a couple of boards in a few places for no apparent reason) along the hall with nails on either side of the cut? Ever seen that?

Anyways my real question now is I've been told I need a subfloor (plywood), should I go 1/2 inch or 3/4? Some people tell me it has to be nailed in at the joists others say the opposite so the entire floor moves as one. Which is correct? Lastly, I'm good to just bury the nails by hitting them or do they have to be removed?

Thanks. Great thread. I read the last 20 pages or so so my apologies if this has been answered.
Make sure that the plank subfloor is rescrewed to the joists, squeek free and as flat as possible. Personally I would not install more than 3/8" ply. But if the subfloor is slightly uneven, 5/8" will make it more flat. And use screws not nails! Just a reminder fix the original subfloor first, you can't go back later.
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lak8 wrote:
Jun 29th, 2019 11:25 pm
Looking at installing 5" wide solid oak hardwood floors very soon.

The manufacturer instructions recommends to use a "premium grade urethane construction adhesive" along with nail down (cleats or staples)

I couldn't find much info or places that sell a "premium grade urethane construction adhesive " Would you just recommend PL premium. Or do you need this urethane adhesive for movement, if so where would i buy it?
Edit: found a product made by Sika "SikaBond Construction Adhesive" suppost to "remains slightly flexible permantly" so i would think this would be better then PL premium since you would want some movement with the expansion and contraction of the floor

Also i was thinking about using this method for applying the adhesive

what are your thoughts.
The only thing that I will recommend is stay away from 5" solid wood! No glue will help with expansion and contraction.
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lak8 wrote:
Jun 29th, 2019 11:49 pm
Oh and for underlayment, I was just going to use Kraftpaper (aka wax paper) or would i need something better? again where to buy?
If you are gluing the floor down, you cannot use any paper or underlay. Underlay papers are only for nail down.
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Casanova. wrote:
Jul 1st, 2019 7:41 pm
Going to put hardwood in the basement. We have a lot of square footage.

Any recommendations on:
Engineered or regular hardware for the basement over a concrete floor?
& what about the underlay? What a should we put down?

What stores are recommended near mississauga/etobicoke?
Stay away from solid hardwood in the basement, engineered only! Vinyl or laminate is also good option. As for subfloor/underlay refer to the manufacturer recommendations.
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sherpa wrote:
Jul 4th, 2019 2:58 pm
Hello -

Thank you so much for this thread. Much appreciated.

I am looking to buy hardwood natural maple hardwood (not engineered) flooring (3 1/4") for three bedrooms, totaling roughly 500 sq. ft.

There are so many companies to choose from. There are some that are cheaper in price (Appalaichain, Wyckham, Mohawk, Bruce, etc.) and for $0.50 more per/sq. ft. there are companies like PG Model and Lauzon. Is it worth it to purchase the more expensive brands? Is there really a material difference? Ultimately, it's not that much more expensive for the lot, but i'm interested in best quality for my $$.

Thanks for your help!
Stay with the more known manufacturers and make sure it's hard maple not just maple. If you want clear maple you need to go with 1st grade so more $.
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Homerhomer wrote:
Jul 10th, 2019 9:05 am
I have installed approx. 1400sf of engineered hardwood (Tosca) and have two questions.

1) Between bathroom tile and hallway hardwood I don't want to have any transition pieces, currently there is a gap of less than 1/4, how do I fill it? grout, silicone, silicone on the bottom grout on top, anything else?
2) I have two unopened boxes of hardwood left as well as two good pieces and number of scrap pieces. Should I return both boxes or keep one.
Thanks
You should have installed the wood tight to the tile. If a full piece is not wide enough, then cut a sliver of same wood and fill in the gap. Keep the wood in case of any future repairs etc.
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danthemightyone wrote:
Jul 12th, 2019 10:29 pm
I am looking to replace carpet with hardwood floor in the bedrooms. Approx. sqft is about 900 and we decided on 3.25 maple grey colour, prefinished. We will probaby hire professional to install them. This is my first time dealing with hardwood ones.

- How much extra should I order? Do people intentionally order more and keep the leftover for future? What happens the exact flooring gets discontinued?
- Love to get some recommendations on Ottawa based flooring company.

TIA
Yes it's always good to have little extra wood in case of any future repairs. Usually standard is 5% extra.
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manu117 wrote:
Jul 15th, 2019 9:49 am
Hey guys,

We recently had some water damage the hardwood on our second floor in the office and hallway. There are also two bedrooms that are fine. The insurance company gave us an estimate for replacing the damaged wood in the office and hallway, but wants to put dividers in the bedroom doorways to avoid replacing the entire floor. Isn't this going to look terrible? Any advice on how to proceed? If there are any good contractors in the Montreal area that could help me out, please let me know!

Not sure if this is the right thread for this, so let me know if not! TIA
Insurance company has to provide you with the same floor and if it means replacing the whole thing that's what they have to do. But by installing the transitions, they are trying to cut costs themselves. Yes it will look terrible and you don't have to agree to it and demand entire floor replaced. Plus the new floor colour might not match perfectly and you should insist on having the whole floor replaced.
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KennyX wrote:
Jul 15th, 2019 9:51 am
First time looking into this thread. Long story short, but I removed the carpet on the second floor of my house, and noticed that the clearance/height between the wood subfloor and the nosing/trim is only 9.5-10mm.

I was going to do laminate in this area (have already installed the laminate in the bedrooms), but it was suggested in another thread that hardwood might fit the bill. I figure 3/8 hardwood would fit perfectly, though do you need to install any underlayment/underpad for hardwood? If you do, what's the standard thickness? or is it just like (wax) paper? If it's thick, I suppose I could try and source the 5/16 low(er) profile hardwood.

thoughts?

thanks!
If you are nailing down, you just need wax paper.
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wind13 wrote:
Jul 16th, 2019 1:04 am
Engineered hardwood is very popular now. Solid floors seem to almost disappear from stores. I am curious if someone already had lived with engineered floors for 10+ year and structurally they still as sound as would be solid... (surface dents is a different story...)
Yes, I have Vintage 5" Solid Sawn engineered floors myself and they look exactly the same when they installed (maybe few extra scratches lol) with heavy traffic, kids, dog etc. Slightly Smiling FaceThumbs Up Sign
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Yes, hardwood everywhere was agreed to be the standard and was included in the allowance (plus some extra, wit seems we can their 2nd level of upgrade still included in the original allowance). But still the flooring place that builder uses carried plenty of hardwoods and it was hard to make decisions as they have one suggestion about what can be a "default" hardwood, and that is Timeless. Unfortunately, it is not CARB2 (or similar) certified.
Then by trial we discovered the Laurentian is certified and many of Laurentian lines are charged as default, then a bit of upgrade and we can get upgraded Laurentian or Appalachian. Unfortunately, as there are so many brands in general and many that they carry it is really hard to make proposals for a quote if one does not in advance how much it could cost......
patrob wrote:
Jul 16th, 2019 10:27 pm
Is hardwood standard then? When carpet is standard feature of the house, then the builder charges you additional $10-18 sq ft on top of the carpet cost. You will not get credit back for the carpet but you should definitely not be paying extra for it! If you are not sure what you want, therefore it might be best if you go directly with the builder for the hardwood.

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