Raw/Selvage Denim Thread

[Firebolt]

Post your progression pics here. Help out some denim beginners and just come to learn new things about the field of the warp and weft!

Here's my progression post

Naked & Famous Deep Indigo, Weirdguys - Sz. 31
3 months, 1 soak, constant wear

Overall back showing combs and wallet



Honeycombs



wallet



Whiskers



Also I'm working on a pair of Red Wefts

Naked & Famous Red Weft, Weirdguys - Sz. 30
2 months, occasionally worn



So c'mon guys. Post some pics, share some knowledge or ask questions to your hearts content.

[Firebolt]

What is Selvage

Selvage, selvedge or self edge basically means fabrics that have as the name states, self finished edges. The way the fabric is woven is so that the weft threads (threads that run parallel to the vertical threads) are looped back in at the end of the fabric so that it is a continuous weave without cutting. Generally made on shuttle looms.



Warp and Weft

Warp threads are the ones that run vertical down the garment usually shown of the outside while weft are the lines parallel to the warp which usually are on the inside.



Raw, Dry

Raw or dry denim have not been washed, distressed or agitated during production and each thread retains the dye from when it was produced.

Raw Vs. Distressed



Sanforized

Sanforized is a term used for soaking denim during production so that they would not shrink out of size when you first wash or soak your jeans. All cotton have a percentage that they would shrink when they contact water.



A comprehensive list of terms can be found at oki-ni and also if you're super interested, go on the superfuture - denim section to be overwhelmed.

Different Types of Denim

Denim comes in many different weights and texture and you should know what to choose for yourself. Contrary to popular belief, heavier denim does not always produce better fades. There are different options to choose from such as weight, stiffness, colour, weave, just to name a few.

Weight

Denim usually comes in weights that varies from 7oz - 25 oz per square feet, although there are some exception with super light - super heavy.
You probably wouldn't want to wear a heavy pair in the summer as it is very stifling and hinders movement, although it doesn't seem to keep you warmer in the winter either, from personal experience. The starch on the denim seems to conduct heat very well meaning it's like a sheet of metal stuck to your skin. Usually the heavier the denim the stronger it is, though there are always exceptions.

Stiffness

Stiffness of denim has a lot of variables, from the amount of starch there's on it to the weight of the denim and the type of materials weaved in. Usually the stiffer the jeans are, the easier it is to get fades.

Colour

The colour on the outside of the jeans really depend on the type of dye used on the cotton. There are many different ways of dyeing from the more conventional way of rope dyeing or loop dyeing to less conventional ways like slash dyeing. Each has it's unique ways to get the colour onto the individual threads.

Weave

The weave of the denim is how each of the warp and weft yarns are put together. There are currently 3 types of weave invented by 3 of the different big 3 companies. Levi's 1st created jeans using the right hand/twill weave process in the 1800's, while Lee came latter with the apparently softer, left hand/twill weave in the early 1900's. A while later in 1964, Wrangler invented the process of "broken twill" which basically prevented jeans from twisting left or right with the torque from the weaves.

Different Types of Fading

Types of fading:

Whiskers – the fading of the jeans near the waist-crotch area. Most of the time, these fades are elongated and go through the width of the leg. When looking from the front, these fades give the characteristics of whiskers from a cat, hence its name.



Wallet fade – This one is self-explanatory. It is the fading on a pocket due to the wallet, or miscellaneous object pushing up the denim, and having abrasions on it. The wallet can be replaced with anything from a phone, bottle cap, brass knuckles, etc
Photo courtesy of RFD member Firebolt



Honeycombs – The fading of the jeans behind the knee, where the leg bends to perform many activities. The name comes from the shape of the actual fading; the diamond shape of the fading looks like a bee’s honeycombs.



Stacks – These are from the jeans’ fabric falling upon itself, or stacking due to the extra length of the jeans. Typically, raw denim jeans are much longer than normal distressed jeans due to the fact that they tend to shrink up to two inches after an initial wash. This extra length “stacks” and the ridges fade like any part of the denim. Faded stacks also look like honeycombs, because of the way the denim folds

Courtesy of ThaChingster, make sure you thank him

[BananaWeed]

http://forums.redflagdeals.com/desig...thread-385257/

[Firebolt]

LOL I did not see that, I did a search to see if there were similar threads. Well I guess I'll put more info on selvage etc..

[samberkun]

dude..... buy some jeans that fit... those creases are terrible, quit sagging your pants so much

[Firebolt]

dude..... buy some jeans that fit... those creases are terrible, quit sagging your pants so much

What I don't seem to understand is, how you tell these jeans don't fit. Unless you know my true size waist or are some sort of weird stalker I highly doubt you would even know where I wear them. But just so you know, they are worn like a normal pair of pants would. I don't think I'm ******** enough to lowride in selvage. But then again, thanks for your opinion. I'll be sure to keep that in mind when I buy a pair of new jeans.

[samberkun]

What I don't seem to understand is, how you tell these jeans don't fit. Unless you know my true size waist or are some sort of weird stalker I highly doubt you would even know where I wear them. But just so you know, they are worn like a normal pair of pants would. I don't think I'm ******** enough to lowride in selvage. But then again, thanks for your opinion. I'll be sure to keep that in mind when I buy a pair of new jeans.

im talking about the bottum they look terrible who wears there jeans like that? get them hemmed bro

[Firebolt]

Nah, I think I'll pass, unless you can find me a place that can chainstitch in Toronto for cheap. Union Special machines preferably. Otherwise I'll keep my stacks, give's it a bit of flavour.

[yao416]

Sick jeans are sick

[mikehole]

im talking about the bottum they look terrible who wears there jeans like that? get them hemmed bro

its called stacking, mang.

[yao416]

its called stacking, mang.

Word mang!

[samberkun]

its called stacking, mang.

i hope your not over the age of 18

[mikehole]

i hope your not over the age of 18

indeed i am, STAR

[BananaWeed]

N&F jeans take forever to fade.

[Firebolt]

N&F jeans take forever to fade.

That's true, if i had the money, I'd save up to buy a pair of flat heads.