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Removing baseboard from plaster walls - mud advice

  • Last Updated:
  • Jan 17th, 2019 7:30 am
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Oct 19, 2008
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dani6634 wrote:
Jan 12th, 2019 9:39 am
I have a router table / dado stack that could cut the rabbet, it is the length that is the concern.
Couple of feather blocks and outfeed/infeed support would do it....another set of hands on the outfeed side would be best.
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On of the feather blocks goes on the fence pushing down, I should have mentioned. Long pieces of MDF trim are a bit unwiedly to start but with your second set of hands starting at the back on infeed side and then going to outfeed as piece is pushed through its an easy job. At least trim is uniform size so thats not an issue.

Hate MDF on a router table, its like working with dirt. At end of day you don't have nice aroma of wood in the air and terrible dirt boogers if you don't wear a mask. Its cold but don't consider doing this in the garage, its definetly a driveway/backyard job.
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Sorry to go off-topic slightly but I have wanted to replace/install new hardwood/laminate in my house that has 10" baseboards and plaster walls like the OP. Can this be done without taking off the baseboards? It seems like a ton of work and will most likely destroy the already cracking walls. Would removing the quarter round suffice to replace the flooring?? Thanks
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hoponpop wrote:
Jan 12th, 2019 2:22 pm
Sorry to go off-topic slightly but I have wanted to replace/install new hardwood/laminate in my house that has 10" baseboards and plaster walls like the OP. Can this be done without taking off the baseboards? It seems like a ton of work and will most likely destroy the already cracking walls. Would removing the quarter round suffice to replace the flooring?? Thanks
That is the most common way of doing jobs like that, whether or not there already is quarter round. Lay your new floor, and install quarter round.
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Zamboni wrote:
Jan 12th, 2019 10:19 am
On of the feather blocks goes on the fence pushing down, I should have mentioned. Long pieces of MDF trim are a bit unwiedly to start but with your second set of hands starting at the back on infeed side and then going to outfeed as piece is pushed through its an easy job. At least trim is uniform size so thats not an issue.

Hate MDF on a router table, its like working with dirt. At end of day you don't have nice aroma of wood in the air and terrible dirt boogers if you don't wear a mask. Its cold but don't consider doing this in the garage, its definetly a driveway/backyard job.
Mask and solid dust collection. Not just a vacuum, but a dedicated machine can be had for 150 or less.
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Zamboni wrote:
Jan 12th, 2019 10:19 am
Hate MDF on a router table, its like working with dirt. At end of day you don't have nice aroma of wood in the air and terrible dirt boogers if you don't wear a mask. Its cold but don't consider doing this in the garage, its definetly a driveway/backyard job.
+1 on terrible dirt boogers.

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dani6634 wrote:
Jan 12th, 2019 9:15 am
Thanks everyone for your input/advice. I am going to think over the weekend but I might do a 2 part base to get to 8". The top part is the base I already have, biggest concern will be how do I mill 12ft sections for the bottom base because I will have to make that in house.

Screen Shot 2019-01-12 at 9.09.50 AM.png
Off-topic, but I'm looking for the 5.5" bevel baseboard you have in this diagram; where did you get it?
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Mar 22, 2017
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For what it's worth, I think that 8" baseboards in homes that don't have high ceilings can look disproportionate - too much of the vertical space is taken up by the baseboard, making the wall seem stubby and the ceilings low. This is worsened if you also do crown moulding. The 5.5" baseboards (in real wood, it lasts longer!) can definitely be appropriate in a home with sub-9 foot ceilings. Homes that are build with 9-10 foot ceilings can more easily take a 7+ inch baseboard.

Don't use quarter round, the look is dated. Use shoe molding matched to the baseboard style.
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grumble wrote:
Jan 14th, 2019 3:19 pm
For what it's worth, I think that 8" baseboards in homes that don't have high ceilings can look disproportionate - too much of the vertical space is taken up by the baseboard, making the wall seem stubby and the ceilings low. This is worsened if you also do crown moulding. The 5.5" baseboards (in real wood, it lasts longer!) can definitely be appropriate in a home with sub-9 foot ceilings. Homes that are build with 9-10 foot ceilings can more easily take a 7+ inch baseboard.
Agreed. It's surprising how many posters are commenting on the appropriateness of OPs plans and downvoting the thread knowing no more than the age of the property.
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dirtmover wrote:
Jan 14th, 2019 6:20 pm
Agreed. It's surprising how many posters are commenting on the appropriateness of OPs plans and downvoting the thread knowing no more than the age of the property.
You clearly overlooked something completely. Those 'posters' you are referring to know much much more than the age of the property. They know the size of the original baseboards~!
"The truth is incontrovertible, malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end; there it is."
Just a guy who dabbles in lots of stuff learning along the way. I do have opinions, and readily share them!
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anom wrote:
Jan 13th, 2019 10:57 am
Thanks. I was looking for the bevel without the step like you have there to match the rest of my house.
Did you check Central Fairbank yet?
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