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Repooc's Dedicated Home Theater Build

  • Last Updated:
  • Jun 21st, 2018 3:44 pm
[OP]
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Jul 6, 2005
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Toronto
cannon_fodder wrote:
May 30th, 2018 8:50 am
You mentioned a great price from the US on black velvet. Can you please share the details?
Ordered it from SY Fabrics in California... 7.99/yard versus 49.99/meter at my local Fabricland for the EXACT SAME fabric... I literally saved HUNDREDS of dollars!! Free shipping within the states. So, I had it shipped to Crossborder Pickups (CBP) in Niagara Falls, NY for free, And CBP did all the legwork for me in clearing it through customs and bringing it to Canada.

Btw, not a plug for CBP, but this was my first time using this service... and it was absolutely painfree and the time/cost savings of driving to buffalo myself was a HUGE win.

CBP cleared it, and I only had to pay HST (no duties or brokerage fees), and then CBP charged me $21 to have it shipped straight to my door via CanadaPost Xpress post, 1 day after it crossed the border.

Link to product:
SY Fabric Black Velvet

I should also add, that the other great thing about this particular velvet is that there's NO stretch, and makes it incredibly easy to work with. You'll also notice that it matches the colour of the velvet around my screen absolutely perfectly... my screen/frame just fades into the wall.

Hope this helps
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Oct 25, 2001
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I haven't read through your whole thread (my eyes are too green with envy) but why did you choose velvet fabric vs painting the walls? Obviously you aren't budget restricted and your wife seems to be pretty much onboard which isn't a common couplet.

Thanks for all of the details on how to get the fabric to Canada. Very much appreciated.
[OP]
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cannon_fodder wrote:
May 30th, 2018 9:57 am
I haven't read through your whole thread (my eyes are too green with envy) but why did you choose velvet fabric vs painting the walls? Obviously you aren't budget restricted and your wife seems to be pretty much onboard which isn't a common couplet.

Thanks for all of the details on how to get the fabric to Canada. Very much appreciated.
Every surface of my walls/ceiling/door/trim are already painted in a matte finish paint. See a few pages back on the colours used. While the matte finish works well for the rest of the space to cut down on reflections, having the velvet around the screen area really takes the light absorbing to the next level. Under the black velvet was actually painted with matte black. The area behind the screen is also painted matte black (for now), but will eventually be covered with black acoustic 3D foam panels.
[OP]
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discoblues wrote:
May 30th, 2018 12:06 pm
i know youre looking forward to using your projector's lens shift, but have you ever considered using some of that black velvet for screen masking? - somthing like this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/174-diy-c ... t30-s.html
LOL... funny you mentioned this.

My wife was stressing me out last night, because I expressed to her that my ONLY concern at this point was where I mounted my projector and whether the projected image would be impeded by the lighting cove overhangs on either sides of the bulkhead (I was 98% sure it was going to be OK, because this projector has quite the range in vertical/horizontal shift without having to resort to dreaded keystone. But she likes to push my buttons, to the point of where I was finally like "fine.... let's plug it in and run a test pattern to see"

Long story short, we sat down in the front row and I fired up the projector (without plugging in any kind of media/source) and ran the test/calibration pattern. Unfortunately, I didn't have my phone with me to take a pic, but the test pattern fit the screen absolutely PERFECTLY. Even where I plan to install my atmos speakers, I'm perfectly in the clear. I can see exactly where a 16:9 image would be projected on the screen and the sides where I proposed to her that I can either build masks on door hinges that swing in from the sides or perhaps keep it simple, and just install a hook that I can hang panels on... either way, the mask would just be piece of plywood that's covered in the same black velvet.

But like I said before, this room will be for watching movies, which in most cases are widescreen anyways; and why I settled on a 2.35:1 screen opposed to what could have been a much larger 16:9 screen. For the odd older movies that are "full screen" 16:9, I'll see how much the white areas on either side of the screen bug me. But the masks, for now, are just a 'nice to have'. Maybe get to it when I'm done tweaking the HT.

But I've seen all kinds of crazy ass electronic/automated masking systems with pullys and motors... to me, that's just more parts to break down over time. No thanks.
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Mar 15, 2005
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Repooc wrote:
May 30th, 2018 3:42 pm
But I've seen all kinds of crazy ass electronic/automated masking systems with pullys and motors... to me, that's just more parts to break down over time. No thanks.
funny you should mention the simple solutions often being most effective. At my last place I built top/bottom masking with rigid foam that people use for insulalting / waterproofing basement walls, and spray-glued felt to it. No need for magnets or hinges, it was light and strong enough that it could be easily wedged into the screen frame border. It took 5 seconds to attach/detach and was very effective in that it really allowed the image to pop compared to white borders.

The only problem was hiding the peices when not in use. This time around im thinking of using some simple drapery hardware with a draw string/pulley system.
[OP]
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Wow... Foam board for the masking panel base?!? Thats a brilliant idea. Nice and light too. Might have to steal that idea off of you, if I ever decide on doing it.
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I have a few strings of Philips hue light strips in my non dedicated home theatre area. Any suggestions on how I could incorporate them into my space? My screen is 120" fixed tension, my projector is table mounted about 12' from the screen and I have a six bulb ceiling light with hue bulbs. (A family member works at Philips so I'm lucky to have a house full of special lighting).

I have the octane seats like you except in a one row, 4 seat configuration so they already have lighting.

I still need to figure out why my Google Home isn't adding all of my Philips devices...
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Jul 31, 2017
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Repooc wrote:
May 30th, 2018 10:38 pm
Wow... Foam board for the masking panel base?!? Thats a brilliant idea. Nice and light too. Might have to steal that idea off of you, if I ever decide on doing it.
You might consider black foamcore that photographers use. It's already matte black and comes in various thickness and 4x8 sheets. Cuts to size easily with a knife too.
[OP]
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cannon_fodder wrote:
Jun 3rd, 2018 11:49 pm
I have a few strings of Philips hue light strips in my non dedicated home theatre area. Any suggestions on how I could incorporate them into my space? My screen is 120" fixed tension, my projector is table mounted about 12' from the screen and I have a six bulb ceiling light with hue bulbs. (A family member works at Philips so I'm lucky to have a house full of special lighting).

I have the octane seats like you except in a one row, 4 seat configuration so they already have lighting.

I still need to figure out why my Google Home isn't adding all of my Philips devices...
Wow, that's a pretty sweet hookup on phillips products you have. Care to send any extras my way??

Anyways, with your light strips, i would add "bias lighting" to the back/edge of your screen. This is one idea i've already designed for in my HT, whereby I have a plug in my baffle wall space controlled by a light switch. Future plan is to power an LED light strip that i'll place on the back surface of my screen's frame around the entire perimeter of the screen.

Its purpose is kind of 2-fold, in that it looks kind of cool if you have LEDs capable of changing colour, but most importantly at helps bump up the perceived contrast a little bit. Allowing you to visualize a definitive dark border around your projected image on the screen.

Other idea really depedends on your ceiling layout... You can install crown molding a few inches lower than your ceiling and toss the LED light strips in there for some accent/cove lighting. Only limitation here is that you need to have a plug installed near your ceiling.

I think the first option has more practical use though... Hope this helps.
[OP]
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Just a quick/small update

Had some requests to see the finished painted surround speakers. Now, I know some of you may ask "why did you not just BUY the black version of these speakers". Short answer, I bought these used on Kijiji/RFD, and you can't be picky with colours when getting a good deal on used speakers. Painting the cabinets was an easy/cheap solution. So, here goes...

Side Surround - Fluance bipole speakers before and after:
.
bipole before.jpg
bipole after.jpg

Rear Surround - Fluance Signature Series monopole speakers before and after
.
monopole before.jpg
monopole after.jpg

Back of HT before and after. From the before picture, I've since nylon-sleeved and terminated all of my wires with banana plugs and took off the protective packaging film from the projector and leveled it. The atmos wires are spooled up tighter to the ceiling until I get my Atmos speakers, hopefully in another month or so.

Before
back before.jpg
.
After
back after.jpg
back after angle.jpg
Member
Aug 14, 2011
265 posts
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Calgary
good choice on the fluance...I am loving mine...things are really looking great.
Member
Mar 15, 2005
322 posts
72 upvotes
they look great! What specific paint did you use?
I have a simliar dilemma as i have a single svs pb12 plus cherry circa 2012 like in the attached pic.
http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/images/la ... us_LRG.jpg
I want to add a second sub to level things out in the room. i can only seem to find matte black or piano black. ive confirmed with SVS that the new ones except for appearance is identical.

my options are:
1) selling it and purchase a new matching pair.
2) keep it in the front right corner and put a smaller sub in the back left corner
3) paint it like you did - but this will hurt resale if i ever decide to sell in the future.
decisions decisions.
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Dec 11, 2004
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Plastidip it? So it can be removed if you ever need to sell it, or replace the veneer if it's a laminate
[OP]
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Jul 6, 2005
3322 posts
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Toronto
discoblues wrote:
Jun 6th, 2018 2:49 pm
they look great! What specific paint did you use?
I have a simliar dilemma as i have a single svs pb12 plus cherry circa 2012 like in the attached pic.
http://www.sonicboomaudio.com/images/la ... us_LRG.jpg
I want to add a second sub to level things out in the room. i can only seem to find matte black or piano black. ive confirmed with SVS that the new ones except for appearance is identical.

my options are:
1) selling it and purchase a new matching pair.
2) keep it in the front right corner and put a smaller sub in the back left corner
3) paint it like you did - but this will hurt resale if i ever decide to sell in the future.
decisions decisions.
Believe it or not... Its from a rattle can of spray paint!! I bought this exact one from Lowes in Matte Black:
https://www.lowes.ca/spray-paint/rust-o ... 52517.html

It has amazing adhesion to everything I've sprayed with it in my HT. So far I've used it on the powdercoated metal surface of the linerar diffuser supply grate of my deadvent, on the plastic grate of my exhaust deadvent, the plastic recessed electric/low voltage gang boxes and most recently on the wood veneer of my speaker boxes.

You can spray at any angle and it dries completely matte.

Just take your time to properly mask off and do several light coats (drying time between coats is also very quick).

In terms of resale, I think this matte black finish looks 100x better than the fake brown wood veneer. You might even broaden your prospective buyers with a black subwoofer opposed one that has a cherry finish ;)

Hope this helps.

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