Sports & Recreation

RFD Cycling Thread [OFFICIAL]

  • Last Updated:
  • Aug 16th, 2017 12:07 pm
Deal Guru
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Mar 6, 2003
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Ottawa
sixteen12 wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2017 10:11 am
I'm looking to pick up a road bike. Looking mostly for longer group rides in Gatineau park, and Rideau Lakes area. Might eventually use it for a tri.

Found a used Ridley Fenix CR50 (~500km) for $1200, Trek Madone 3.1(like new) for $1200, Trek Emonda ALR 5 (lots of miles) $1200.

Any of these seem like decent deals? the Madone has some Tiagra parts, the other two are almost all 105.
There are some end of season prices starting this time of year. New alr4 is 1279 for example
https://www.rebecandkroes.com/road-bikes.html
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Aug 15, 2010
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warpdrive wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2017 10:16 am
There are some end of season prices starting this time of year. New alr4 is 1279 for example
https://www.rebecandkroes.com/road-bikes.html
Thanks. I live near there actually and had no idea they existed. I went to some of the bigger bike stores and was pretty underwhelmed with the sale prices.
How can an ant carry twenty times its body weight, but root beer floats are still delicious?
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sixteen12 wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2017 10:42 am
Thanks. I live near there actually and had no idea they existed. I went to some of the bigger bike stores and was pretty underwhelmed with the sale prices.
It's a tiny tiny store. Prices there are not usually great, but the alr4 is a good deal and is what I would buy (it has a complete tiagra group which is functionally as good as 105)

Later on in the fall, the other stores like bushtukah or fresh air may put up to 20 % off remaining stock, and Mec actually has good deals as they clear out their higher end stock
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Aug 15, 2010
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warpdrive wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2017 11:01 am
It's a tiny tiny store. Prices there are not usually great, but the alr4 is a good deal and is what I would buy (it has a complete tiagra group which is functionally as good as 105)

Later on in the fall, the other stores like bushtukah or fresh air may put up to 20 % off remaining stock, and Mec actually has good deals as they clear out their higher end stock
Good to know. That ALR4 seems like the best deal going for sure. Yeah Tiagra vs 105, doesn't really bother me.
How can an ant carry twenty times its body weight, but root beer floats are still delicious?
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Jan 10, 2007
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Any recommendations for a bike rack thats NOT hitch mounted and won't leave dimples in the trunk for 2 bikes?
Deal Guru
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Mar 6, 2003
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sixteen12 wrote:
Aug 2nd, 2017 11:45 am
Good to know. That ALR4 seems like the best deal going for sure. Yeah Tiagra vs 105, doesn't really bother me.
did you go check it out?
Sr. Member
Sep 11, 2006
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WH0WHAT wrote:
Aug 1st, 2017 9:23 pm
Hey guys I’m looking to get a bike. I’ve been researching for a few days and verdict is that I should avoid Canadian Tire and Walmart bikes. I’ve been eyeing a hybrid bike and most of my bike use will be in the city. I’m looking to get a bike that will last me many years and something that can take a beating.

My budget is around $500 and one bike that looks like it can suit my needs is the Giant Escape 3: Giant

What do you guys think? Summer is almost over, so should I just hold off and wait for some deals? When’s the best time to buy a bike?
I bought a 2016 Giant Revolt 3 late last August with the help from a very friendly RFD member (r1lee) and received substantial saving (see receipt below; the price also includes 4 free full tune ups which costs $65.99 each time!). He used to be very active in this thread and you could try PM him for more details. Good luck!
Image
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warpdrive wrote:
Aug 4th, 2017 5:55 pm
did you go check it out?
Yup ended up picking up the 54. Fit well, and came to $1179 with Trek's $100 discount. Picking it up later today, hopefully take it out for a spin tonight, but the inlaws are in town.
How can an ant carry twenty times its body weight, but root beer floats are still delicious?
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sixteen12 wrote:
Aug 5th, 2017 10:39 am
Yup ended up picking up the 54. Fit well, and came to $1179 with Trek's $100 discount. Picking it up later today, hopefully take it out for a spin tonight, but the inlaws are in town.
awesome. You know you will have to post some pics right ? :)
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Aug 15, 2010
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warpdrive wrote:
Aug 5th, 2017 10:44 am
awesome. You know you will have to post some pics right ? :)
Yup. I'll get them up tomorrow or Monday. Need to get my pedals on it!
How can an ant carry twenty times its body weight, but root beer floats are still delicious?
Newbie
Jan 7, 2017
90 posts
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Hamilton
I'm looking to pick up a new bike at the end of the season... I guess similar needs that sixteen12 has (road bike that I can throw aero bars on once and a while for a tri), aiming for 105 components. I've been really scratching my head over whether I should be going for disc breaks or letting the technology develop for a few more years; any thoughts?
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differing wrote:
Aug 5th, 2017 9:30 pm
I'm looking to pick up a new bike at the end of the season... I guess similar needs that sixteen12 has (road bike that I can throw aero bars on once and a while for a tri), aiming for 105 components. I've been really scratching my head over whether I should be going for disc breaks or letting the technology develop for a few more years; any thoughts?
Disc brakes are great for wet weather riding. The disadvantage is that it's more expensive, Avoid road bikes that use mechanical disc systems (look for hydraulic). Hydraulic brake systems tend to show up on the more expensive road bikes.

I don't think the technology itself needs to advance but the industry is still converging on a single axle standard http://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/produ ... yet-308139

For triathlon, if you ever go with the route of having "race day" aero wheels, disc brakes make the wheels easier to change since you don't have to deal with adjusting the calipers on a disc brake system. But there is more choice in rim brake aero rims, but most wheel makers are adding disc brake versions of all their wheels so that people who have disc brake bikes can upgrade to aero rims for racing.

I would suggest that if your budget is limited and you intend to ride in mostly good weather, rim brakes are still the way to go.
Newbie
Jan 7, 2017
90 posts
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Hamilton
warpdrive wrote:
Aug 5th, 2017 10:39 pm
I would suggest that if your budget is limited and you intend to ride in mostly good weather, rim brakes are still the way to go.
Thanks a lot, I think that's the route I'll follow. On the hunt for a CAAD12 105 with calipers; seems like the best balance of performance and value.
Sr. Member
Feb 14, 2004
908 posts
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SCARBOROUGH
To warpdrive, and other bike experts,

I have a question on cross chaining. I recently brought a road bike from costco (NorthRock SCR1), and I notice the front derailleur is touching the chain when I am on the Large chainring to the biggest cog (lowest gear). If I fix it by adjusting the font derailleur, then the chain will touch the front deraillleur when I am on the smallest cog (highest gear). It seems like II can only pick a choose for the front derailleur to either accommodate the smallest cog or the biggest cog, but NOT both. Am I doing something wrong or that's normal and I should drop it to the small chainrain to avoid cross chaining?

Thank you all in advance.
A
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Jan 7, 2017
90 posts
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Hamilton
pcboy wrote:
Aug 7th, 2017 12:38 pm
To warpdrive, and other bike experts,

I have a question on cross chaining. I recently brought a road bike from costco (NorthRock SCR1), and I notice the front derailleur is touching the chain when I am on the Large chainring to the biggest cog (lowest gear). If I fix it by adjusting the font derailleur, then the chain will touch the front deraillleur when I am on the smallest cog (highest gear). It seems like II can only pick a choose for the front derailleur to either accommodate the smallest cog or the biggest cog, but NOT both. Am I doing something wrong or that's normal and I should drop it to the small chainrain to avoid cross chaining?

Thank you all in advance.
A
It's kind of a non-issue because you should really make a habit of avoiding cross chaining. When accelerating on a flat gradient, get in the habit of shifting your front derailleur early vs working through all your rear casette and putting yourself in a cross-chain scenario. One last thing to check would be that your limit screws is defining your maximum derailleur travel, NOT the tension in the gear cable. When setting your L limit screw, you should make sure the cable isn't taught because it will give you a false limit on what you can set your limit screw to - you may be able to squeeze out a bit more play if this is the case. Loosen your cable a bit, THEN set your L screw. It's also important to double check that your derailleur angle and height is set properly, because if that's out of wack you'll be chasing this stuff all day long.

Park tool has a great guide: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -section-5

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