Automotive

Solder help needed

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  • Jun 20th, 2010 9:33 pm
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Member
Oct 22, 2003
317 posts
10 upvotes

Solder help needed

I am installing a stereo in my truck but some of the wires are too short to reach the proper grounding places. Is there any reason not to solder a longer piece of wire onto the short piece then heat shrink it to make the wire longer? Will that affect the ground?

I assume i will need the exact same thickness of wire correct? It is a smaller guage wire than the regular auto wire thats why i ask
11 replies
Deal Expert
May 30, 2005
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Richmond Hill
Not an auto expert, but from the electronics perspective, extending the wire like that will increase the resistance of the signal :P
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Jr. Member
May 13, 2007
158 posts
16 upvotes
You could always use marrets to connect/extend the wires if you're not comfortable with soldering.
Deal Expert
User avatar
May 10, 2005
36997 posts
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Ottawa
Jon Lai wrote: Not an auto expert, but from the electronics perspective, extending the wire like that will increase the resistance of the signal :P
If done properly there will no increase in resistance but, it is easy enough to measure the before and after to be certain. There is no optimal length for a ground (within reason of course).
Deal Fanatic
Mar 21, 2002
6826 posts
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Manitoba
There's no problem whatsoever with soldering an extension length on. The new wire should be at least the same thickness - you can use a heavier gauge if you want.
Deal Fanatic
Dec 9, 2003
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Calgary
Make sure you twist the wires very well before soldering. Soldering in a vehicle environment is not really recommended because of vibration - which is why most connectors are crimped.
Jr. Member
Feb 18, 2010
104 posts
Dungeon wrote: I am installing a stereo in my truck but some of the wires are too short to reach the proper grounding places. Is there any reason not to solder a longer piece of wire onto the short piece then heat shrink it to make the wire longer? Will that affect the ground?

I assume i will need the exact same thickness of wire correct? It is a smaller guage wire than the regular auto wire thats why i ask
I wouldn't worry, in my last car I simply twisted and electrical taped the car wire harness wires to the stereo plug wires and it was fine for the year I had it in.

If you were to do it properly just twisting and soldering with proper screw caps or heat shrink would be more than fine (no problem with solder in an auto environment, all the electronics boards are spot soldered with way smaller amounts than you would be using and go through the same vibrations.)
Deal Fanatic
Dec 9, 2003
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kabome wrote: (no problem with solder in an auto environment, all the electronics boards are spot soldered with way smaller amounts than you would be using and go through the same vibrations.)
Not correct. No problem with solder on boards because they dont twist and flex (much) with the vibration. The light components are very well anchored on the boards. But wires do shake around. Why do you think automakers solder NO wiring on a vehicle?? Becasue to do it properly is quite specific.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Master- ... everytime/
Jr. Member
Feb 18, 2010
104 posts
Cough wrote: Not correct. No problem with solder on boards because they dont twist and flex (much) with the vibration. The light components are very well anchored on the boards. But wires do shake around. Why do you think automakers solder NO wiring on a vehicle?? Becasue to do it properly is quite specific.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Master- ... everytime/
Good points. For longevity I agree you would want to use the necessary lengths of wire with ring or c-terminals crimped and bolted to the ends or crimped into click-connectors (which is what's done by the manufacturer's themselves).

But in this particular scenario I don't see too much of a problem, the area behind the dash is relatively tight and you can secure the wires quite well for the most part.
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May 10, 2005
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Cough wrote: Not correct. No problem with solder on boards because they dont twist and flex (much) with the vibration. The light components are very well anchored on the boards. But wires do shake around. Why do you think automakers solder NO wiring on a vehicle?? Becasue to do it properly is quite specific.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Master- ... everytime/
If you properly connect the wires to each other and solder them properly (inline connection and solder) you will not have any issues whatsoever. Vibration or not.
Your link claims that pigtails "redirect the wire 180 degrees, so going from point A to B requires a sharp bend" and "They are ugly". Are you kidding? You think electrical current cares? What a load and the website loses all credibility with statements like that.
Stating that automakers don't solder and using that as a reason for not doing it is plain dumb. They don't solder because on an assembly line, there can be any number of options installed and any number of stations during assembly Also, a single wire bundle is used on several models of car let alone the variables within the models themselves. Connectors lend themselves to the variations.
If you are doing a permanent repair, you will solder. It is the best and most permanent repair.
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Dec 9, 2003
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Calgary
Pete_Coach wrote: If you properly connect the wires to each other and solder them properly (inline connection and solder) you will not have any issues whatsoever. Vibration or not.
Your link claims that pigtails "redirect the wire 180 degrees, so going from point A to B requires a sharp bend" and "They are ugly". Are you kidding? You think electrical current cares? What a load and the website loses all credibility with statements like that.
Stating that automakers don't solder and using that as a reason for not doing it is plain dumb. They don't solder because on an assembly line, there can be any number of options installed and any number of stations during assembly Also, a single wire bundle is used on several models of car let alone the variables within the models themselves. Connectors lend themselves to the variations.
If you are doing a permanent repair, you will solder. It is the best and most permanent repair.
Thanks for all your criticism. I never advised against soldering - in fact I support it. I just said make sure to twist the wires - and included the link because it includes a great picture of twisted wires and instructions on doing the splice. I am sooo sorry it didnt meet your desires on pigtail positivity.

Many amateur solderers dont undertand the need to twist wires and flow the solder - which resilts in dry joints and easy broken joints.

So thanks Pete Coach. Normally I am supportive and appreciative of your help to others but there is no need to get nasty about a minor piece in a link..

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