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TV mounting on wall, studs seem a bit thin?

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  • Jul 15th, 2018 10:23 pm
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[OP]
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Mar 17, 2004
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TV mounting on wall, studs seem a bit thin?

So I bought a TV mount and the wall I want to install it on is made of drywall and has wooden studs behind it. The problem is it's not very thick maybe only 1.75 inches, so accounting for the drywall maybe the wood is only 1 inch? Then we reach what seems to be a concrete wall between my house and the house nextdoor (semi detached house). I asked elsewhere online and a few guys said that this wood might not be load bearing because it's only meant to keep the drywall on the wall? This is the main floor of my house, There is a basement and also another floor above. I've mounted TV mounts before but it was always with standard studs that could be screwed fully into.

I was thinking of getting 3/4th inch pine board from home depot (it's pretty cheap) then using 2.5inch screws + washers to attach it to 3 studs. Then screw the TV mount onto this pine board and also through to the studs. Will this work and would it be secure enough? Should I be using lag bolts rather than "wood screws"?

Anyone ideas?

Thanks,
14 replies
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Mar 23, 2008
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It's probably just strapping on the walls to give the drywallers something to screw the drywall into. Could be 2x4's turned sideways or a 2x2.

You could either do toggle bolts (no studs needed), or I suspect you'd be fine just putting the lag bolts into the studs. Just use short ones, and maybe use a few more. Your idea of using a mounting plate isn't bad either. The fact that the walls/studs aren't "load bearing" isn't a factor, as many of the walls in your house aren't load bearing.

C
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Aug 16, 2010
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Yeah, the wood holding up the drywall could be "furring strips" and are not load bearing framing (though the wood would be fine for holding up a TV PROVIDED there's enough thickness for the screw - 1" does sound a little thin). It's kind of unusual to use furring strips unless it's a basement or something like that. In which case you can drill right through the wood and into the concrete and use tapcons to secure the mount.
[OP]
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CNeufeld wrote:
Jul 12th, 2018 5:37 pm
It's probably just strapping on the walls to give the drywallers something to screw the drywall into. Could be 2x4's turned sideways or a 2x2.

You could either do toggle bolts (no studs needed), or I suspect you'd be fine just putting the lag bolts into the studs. Just use short ones, and maybe use a few more. Your idea of using a mounting plate isn't bad either. The fact that the walls/studs aren't "load bearing" isn't a factor, as many of the walls in your house aren't load bearing.

C
Yeah I was thinking that the wood inside must be attached to something right? They can't just be floating inside there with the drywall attached.
Sr. Member
Oct 7, 2007
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Markham
It's likely you're trying to mount it on the dividing concrete block wall (fire separation). The wood you're hitting is furring strips to mount the drywall. You'll need to get some hollow concrete block anchors.
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Jan 21, 2011
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Oni-kun wrote:
Jul 12th, 2018 9:28 pm
Yeah I was thinking that the wood inside must be attached to something right? They can't just be floating inside there with the drywall attached.
The studs are normally attached to the concrete wall with nails. I would just screw into studs with #10 of the longest screw possible leaving a 1/4" gap to concrete block, if you can hit at least two studs. How big is the TV? They don't weigh much nowadays. Use washers too.
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Aug 5, 2003
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How old is the house? Our 60s build uses furring strips - that aren't spaced like studs, from the couple spots I've opened up, they are somewhat random - to attach the plaster board, for a modern/new TV that are pretty light these days, good wall anchors ought to be enough.
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Dec 19, 2006
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Any concerns with drilling into concrete blocks? In a similar situation and I've always been concerned on doing this.
[OP]
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lamin wrote:
Jul 13th, 2018 9:48 am
The studs are normally attached to the concrete wall with nails. I would just screw into studs with #10 of the longest screw possible leaving a 1/4" gap to concrete block, if you can hit at least two studs. How big is the TV? They don't weigh much nowadays. Use washers too.
It's a 55 inch so I'm a bit worried
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Jan 21, 2011
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Oni-kun wrote:
Jul 13th, 2018 8:04 pm
It's a 55 inch so I'm a bit worried
Even if the wood was 1/2" thick, it would be fine. Once the stud is securely fasten to the wall, it's fine. If you are worried, just drive tapcons into the wall behind the mount to make sure the stud is secure. Hopefully, they are flat against the block wall.
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This is how I mounted my VIZIO 55" Smart TV (TygerClaw LCD4091BLK Wall Mount from Sears back in 2016):

IMG_20180714_150311.jpg

Wall mount was fitted on a piece of 7 layer plywood (43-1/2" Wide x 18" High x 3/4" Thick) because it needed to cover half of the cutout in the wall above the fireplace (a space for the OLD SCHOOL CRT TVs). The board was affixed to the wall using 3" screws into the studs around the cutout.

Holes were cut into the board for feeding of cables to the TV (HDMI from Denon receiver to TV , CAT from Asus Gigabit Switch , Speaker Wire from the receiver to the Polk Audio Center Channel Speaker mounted on the wall above the TV and Power from the Monster Surge Power Bar).

The other HDMI Cable that was fed through the hole is from the receiver to connect to my gaming systems. It's just wrapped up sitting on a hook hid behind the TV when not in use.

The Desktop Computer has the HDMI running from the MSI RS450-MD1GD3H/LP Video Card to the Receiver.

The Rogers NextBox 3.0 has the HDMI running to the Receiver.

That fan is movable ... has not been mounted yet ... connected via the USB port on the back of the NextBox to cool the Receiver.
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AV-Fishing wrote:
Jul 14th, 2018 4:30 pm
This is how I mounted my VIZIO 55" Smart TV (TygerClaw LCD4091BLK Wall Mount from Sears back in 2016):


IMG_20180714_150311.jpg


Wall mount was fitted on a piece of 7 layer plywood (43-1/2" Wide x 18" High x 3/4" Thick) because it needed to cover half of the cutout in the wall above the fireplace (a space for the OLD SCHOOL CRT TVs). The board was affixed to the wall using 3" screws into the studs around the cutout.

Holes were cut into the board for feeding of cables to the TV (HDMI from Denon receiver to TV , CAT from Asus Gigabit Switch , Speaker Wire from the receiver to the Polk Audio Center Channel Speaker mounted on the wall above the TV and Power from the Monster Surge Power Bar).

The other HDMI Cable that was fed through the hole is from the receiver to connect to my gaming systems. It's just wrapped up sitting on a hook hid behind the TV when not in use.

The Desktop Computer has the HDMI running from the MSI RS450-MD1GD3H/LP Video Card to the Receiver.

The Rogers NextBox 3.0 has the HDMI running to the Receiver.

That fan is movable ... has not been mounted yet ... connected via the USB port on the back of the NextBox to cool the Receiver.
It’s a good thing the tv covers that ugly mess
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Red_Army wrote:
Jul 14th, 2018 6:40 pm
It’s a good thing the tv covers that ugly mess
Whenever I get the time, it would be to redo the shelf in the cutout and to re-clean the cabling.

Yes it is behind the TV but sometimes it looks better when it is "cleaner and organized" .... HAHAHA!
Stress is caused by NOT fishing enough.
JDM ONLY! No North American CRAP!
Megabass, Imakatsu, Jackall, GanCraft, OSP, EverGreen, YGK, Toray, Sunline, Nories, Shimano, Daiwa RULES!
EVA Air Rocks ... Air Canada SUCKS!
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Sep 25, 2003
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Scarborough
You have furring strips, which are used to attached the drywall. You should be fine using a larger screw to penetrate the depth of the furring strip. In our previous kitchen, we had a cabinet mounted on this type of wall. It stored all our cups and dishes and likely weighed more than your TV.

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