Automotive

'07 Nissan Quest -- Battery + Brake Light Showing -- ALTERNATOR ISSUE!

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  • Aug 11th, 2019 1:04 pm
[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 29, 2010
946 posts
79 upvotes
London

'07 Nissan Quest -- Battery + Brake Light Showing -- ALTERNATOR ISSUE!

I own a 2007 Nissan Quest S. For the past few days i've been seeing the Battery Light and Brake Light showing. The DRL lights are also flashing. My understanding is there is a car battery issue, in particular the Alternator / Generator issue.

I attached my multimeter to the car battery's POS and NEG posts and it reads:

Before Ignition: 13.05v
After Ignition (car running): 12.47v

I did not add any special load such as AC, high beams, radio.

NEXT i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator. It reads:

Before Ignition: 13.16v
After Ignition: 12.55v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator and, while the car was running, i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the battery with the point being to see if there was power running from the Alternator's POS post to the POS post of the battery. It reads: 0.00v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the exterior case of the Alternator. The NEG lead of the multimeter was attached to the NEG post of the battery. It reads: 0.02v

What does all this mean? Do i have a break in the wiring? Bad alternator? Bad Fuse?

I'd appreciate further steps to diagnose the exact problem

Thanks
11 replies
Deal Addict
Mar 30, 2010
2886 posts
1190 upvotes
GTA
Looks like an intermittently failing alternator that isn't charging the battery properly.

I say intermittently because for it to be around 13v *before* starting and 12.47v *after* starting, during your diagnosing session, the alternator must have properly charged the battery the last time the car was run.

Also, running voltage should be around 14.5v - does the voltage jump up when the engine is revved up to 3 or 4k rpm?
Deal Addict
Apr 6, 2008
1807 posts
1155 upvotes
Is the battery good? I had similar symptoms on a 4yr old car and it was a failing battery.
Deal Expert
Jan 27, 2006
17551 posts
10324 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
Sounds like a bad alternator. However, now is a good time to clean up all of the connections and get everything checked/tested before Winter hits.

I would:

1. disconnect the battery's and the alternator's electrical connections, give them a good cleaning, apply some dielectric grease, and tighten everything back up.
2. Check/fill the battery fluid levels if you can
3. Charge the battery with an external charger.
4. Check the alternator's belt to ensure that it's tight and in good condition
5. Bring the car to someplace that can test both the battery and the alternator to be sure - most places will do that for free so you have nothing to lose.
[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 29, 2010
946 posts
79 upvotes
London
craftsman wrote: Sounds like a bad alternator. However, now is a good time to clean up all of the connections and get everything checked/tested before Winter hits.

I would:

1. disconnect the battery's and the alternator's electrical connections, give them a good cleaning, apply some dielectric grease, and tighten everything back up.
2. Check/fill the battery fluid levels if you can
3. Charge the battery with an external charger.
4. Check the alternator's belt to ensure that it's tight and in good condition
5. Bring the car to someplace that can test both the battery and the alternator to be sure - most places will do that for free so you have nothing to lose.
I will take the vehicle down to my local Napa Autopro for a diagnosis. They going to charge $40 for the inspection but at least i'll know for sure the issue. In the event it is a bad alternator only what is the typical cost for such shops to replace it? RockAuto sells a replacement alternator for $200 shipped to Canada so i can only imagine the parts cost in Canada + Labour. Yikes.

I couldnt find any decent videos on DIY replacement of the 2007 Nissan Quest alternator but from the way the thing is wedged deep in there it doesnt look pleasant to replace.
Deal Guru
User avatar
Dec 2, 2008
12372 posts
2057 upvotes
GTA
rosario99 wrote: I own a 2007 Nissan Quest S. For the past few days i've been seeing the Battery Light and Brake Light showing. The DRL lights are also flashing. My understanding is there is a car battery issue, in particular the Alternator / Generator issue.

I attached my multimeter to the car battery's POS and NEG posts and it reads:

Before Ignition: 13.05v
After Ignition (car running): 12.47v

I did not add any special load such as AC, high beams, radio.

NEXT i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator. It reads:

Before Ignition: 13.16v
After Ignition: 12.55v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator and, while the car was running, i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the battery with the point being to see if there was power running from the Alternator's POS post to the POS post of the battery. It reads: 0.00v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the exterior case of the Alternator. The NEG lead of the multimeter was attached to the NEG post of the battery. It reads: 0.02v

What does all this mean? Do i have a break in the wiring? Bad alternator? Bad Fuse?

I'd appreciate further steps to diagnose the exact problem

Thanks
you have successfully measured the voltage drop between alternator and battery.
Deal Guru
User avatar
Dec 2, 2008
12372 posts
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fusion2k2k wrote: Is the battery good? I had similar symptoms on a 4yr old car and it was a failing battery.
:facepalm: its not a failing battery.
Deal Addict
Feb 6, 2011
1739 posts
1487 upvotes
qaz393 wrote: you have successfully measured the voltage drop between alternator and battery.
Not completely. You need current flow to measure voltage drop. Its not determined if the alternator has any output at this time to measure voltage drop.
Deal Expert
Jan 27, 2006
17551 posts
10324 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
rosario99 wrote: I will take the vehicle down to my local Napa Autopro for a diagnosis. They going to charge $40 for the inspection but at least i'll know for sure the issue. In the event it is a bad alternator only what is the typical cost for such shops to replace it? RockAuto sells a replacement alternator for $200 shipped to Canada so i can only imagine the parts cost in Canada + Labour. Yikes.

I couldnt find any decent videos on DIY replacement of the 2007 Nissan Quest alternator but from the way the thing is wedged deep in there it doesnt look pleasant to replace.
If you are taking it down to Napa, ask them if they will credit the $40 for the inspection if you decide to replace the alternator with them. As for the price of the part, Napa Canada has their parts catalogue online so you can actually look up the price before you go in. I did a quick search for you and the price ranges from $330 on the low end to $550.

As for how much work, I'm assuming it's going to be expensive as one site I've seen for a Nissan Quest states that the radiator will need to be removed and that can't be cheap...
Deal Guru
User avatar
Dec 2, 2008
12372 posts
2057 upvotes
GTA
rosario99 wrote: I own a 2007 Nissan Quest S. For the past few days i've been seeing the Battery Light and Brake Light showing. The DRL lights are also flashing. My understanding is there is a car battery issue, in particular the Alternator / Generator issue.

I attached my multimeter to the car battery's POS and NEG posts and it reads:

Before Ignition: 13.05v
After Ignition (car running): 12.47v

I did not add any special load such as AC, high beams, radio.

NEXT i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the NEG post of the battery and the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator. It reads:

Before Ignition: 13.16v
After Ignition: 12.55v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the Alternator and, while the car was running, i attached the NEG lead of the multimeter to the POS post of the battery with the point being to see if there was power running from the Alternator's POS post to the POS post of the battery. It reads: 0.00v

NEXT i attached the POS lead of the multimeter to the exterior case of the Alternator. The NEG lead of the multimeter was attached to the NEG post of the battery. It reads: 0.02v

What does all this mean? Do i have a break in the wiring? Bad alternator? Bad Fuse?

I'd appreciate further steps to diagnose the exact problem

Thanks
is yours a 4 speed base or a 5 speed?? #racevan is real
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[OP]
Sr. Member
Apr 29, 2010
946 posts
79 upvotes
London
UPDATE....
I took the vehicle in for an inspection and YUP they determined it was an alternator issue. NAPA AutoPro went to work replacing it. It cost me $800 (diagnosis ~ $30 + Repair ~ $770).

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