Automotive

2008 Mazda 3 -> Should I do this repair job or just sell it?

  • Last Updated:
  • Jul 18th, 2020 8:21 pm
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes

2008 Mazda 3 -> Should I do this repair job or just sell it?

257,000 km, mostly highway
Engine / Transmission is still fine; transmission still shifts well
My mechanic said I have to replace the following:
-front right ball joint
-rear trailing arm bushing (both sides)
-front sway bar bushing
back sway bar link
Total is about $1300.

Should I go for it or just sell the car and get another used one?

I'm the 3rd owner of this car and it has no accidents. I've gotten it at 100,000 km and have been religious about the engine oil changes.
34 replies
Deal Expert
Mar 23, 2004
33225 posts
15038 upvotes
Is it a rustbuckets? If so sell. If no rust (unlikely) then repair.
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes
ES_Revenge wrote: Is it a rustbuckets? If so sell. If no rust (unlikely) then repair.
What constitutes as a rustbucket? I live in BC. Do I just check the under body for rust?
Deal Expert
Mar 23, 2004
33225 posts
15038 upvotes
HailHydra wrote: What constitutes as a rustbucket? I live in BC. Do I just check the under body for rust?
Nah I'm more talking about the body though you're right the chassis could be bad too. But if you're in BC maybe you're not so bad. What I'm really saying is that these cars are notorious for being rustbuckets, they basically rust from the inside out 'cause the shitty Japanese metal they used at Hofu assembly (actually where it came from I'm not 100% sure but it's terrible). That's why so many Mazda3s rust out so badly. The newer ones are fine but the 1st gen cars are well-known rustbuckets. I wouldn't even trust a 2nd gen TBH; only the 3rd gen, once you get to Mexico production I'd say would be better.

If rust has started on the body, I'd just cut your losses now, it will turn into a nightmare--I mean that's if you care about having a crap looking rustbuckets lol. If it hasn't after 12 years I'd consider yourself very lucky and continue with it. Buy some lottery tickets too :)
Deal Expert
Jan 15, 2006
19135 posts
19000 upvotes
Richmond Hill
Image

Does it look like this? lol
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes
EP32k2 wrote: Image

Does it look like this? lol
Lol no, that's literally a bucket of rust. Mine's not like that at all. I checked the underbody, nothing. I checked the wheel well, nothing.
Kiraly wrote: What part of BC are you in? If you're on the coast there's probably little to no rust.
I'm in Vancouver.
Deal Expert
User avatar
Jan 9, 2011
15276 posts
20593 upvotes
Vancouver
I wish we still had our 2009 Mazda 3. That was a great car. Paid $1,600 to put a new clutch in two months before someone ran a stop sign and totaled it. The 2014 Kia Rondo we replaced it with kinda sucks. If you like your Mazda, sure, fix it. I would.
Sr. Member
User avatar
Dec 28, 2010
650 posts
298 upvotes
HailHydra wrote: 257,000 km, mostly highway
Engine / Transmission is still fine; transmission still shifts well
My mechanic said I have to replace the following:
-front right ball joint
-rear trailing arm bushing (both sides)
-front sway bar bushing
back sway bar link
Total is about $1300.

Should I go for it or just sell the car and get another used one?

I'm the 3rd owner of this car and it has no accidents. I've gotten it at 100,000 km and have been religious about the engine oil changes.
I had a $831 bill on our 2009 Mazda 3, for brakes and rotors, and all that jazz. Not a rust bucket either, and we don't really drive it much. So I justified the bill that I will drive the car for one more winter and then sell it.
.
Deal Addict
Oct 3, 2013
2500 posts
3842 upvotes
West
Kiraly wrote: I wish we still had our 2009 Mazda 3. That was a great car. Paid $1,600 to put a new clutch in two months before someone ran a stop sign and totaled it. The 2014 Kia Rondo we replaced it with kinda sucks. If you like your Mazda, sure, fix it. I would.
I'll sell you mine. It's been misfiring and stalling since Monday. Aside from that though... it still runs as long as you don't drive it very far or fast.


OP, do you plan to keep the car for a long time? If so, fix it. Those maintenance items just come with the territory of having a high mileage, older car. If you don't intend to keep it much longer anyway, then it may not be worth the investment.
Deal Addict
Sep 8, 2017
4624 posts
4878 upvotes
GTA
I would fix it. Sounds like your car is otherwise in good condition. Another used car might not be.

It also sounds like these are the only repairs you've had to do in 157,000 km other than oil changes. I'd say that's pretty good and the car has been good to you.
Newbie
May 24, 2015
75 posts
61 upvotes
Coquitlam, BC
I had almost the same car (2009 Mazda 5). The Mazda 5 is harder on suspension components as it's a bit heavier and uses the same suspension as the Mazda 3. Don't cheap out on parts, or you will be replacing them again soon. I had a clunk from the front which I couldn't get rid of. I started with front sway bar end links as they were shot, but it turned out they weren't causing the problem. Ended up replacing the front control arms (c/w new control arm bushings and ball joints), front sway bar bushings, and front struts, springs and strut mounts. Noise was gone for almost a year and returned due to cheap jobber parts (primarily the control arms). I did this work myself so saved on the labour, but the control arms aren't for the faint of heart.

Factor in an alignment as well or you will be replacing tires soon after. I am also in Vancouver and rust was not an issue on my car...should be the same for yours. Some of the work you have been quoted is straight forward. If you need some help or have questions, PM me.
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes
Thanks everyone for your input. Now last question is: should I go to the local Mazda dealership to get this fixed / get a 2nd opinion, or go to my local mechanic? My dad is quite adamant about not trusting any mechanic and only doing it in dealerships because "it's more trustworthy". The local mechanic I go to in question:

NAPA AUTOPRO - Poco Automotive in Port Coquitlam, BC.

Also, should I use NAPA parts to fix it, or OEM mazda parts? I heard some people say Mazda bushings fail quick.
Deal Addict
Sep 4, 2006
1293 posts
1021 upvotes
Ottawa
Moog top line parts are often better than the OEM parts. The parts you need are probably 200-300. You can price them on RockAuto.com in CDN dollars for comparison. They will ship to Canada, quickly. I use them for dealer only parts when needed, but buy most of my stuff local from actual car parts places, not C Tire.

Can you do work yourself? None of these jobs are really difficult, but they require some tools and knowledge.
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes
jayoldschool wrote: Moog top line parts are often better than the OEM parts. The parts you need are probably 200-300. You can price them on RockAuto.com in CDN dollars for comparison. They will ship to Canada, quickly. I use them for dealer only parts when needed, but buy most of my stuff local from actual car parts places, not C Tire.

Can you do work yourself? None of these jobs are really difficult, but they require some tools and knowledge.
I live in a condo. No tools or place or knowledge to fix it myself. At the mercy of mechanics.
Deal Addict
Nov 3, 2008
1798 posts
483 upvotes
There is no reason to trust the dealership mechanic any more than any other mechanic. The dealership service department is there to make money, even more so than the actual car sales department. The mechanics do not diagnose a problem and fix it, as they seem to have a playbook to go by.....

if car symptom is X do procedure 1, hand customer bill.
if car symptom X remains do procedure 2, hand customer bill
if car symptom X remains do Procedure 3, hand customer bill......

The Burnaby Mazda dealership took 3 trips and $1500 to fix a stalling problem on my 2006 Mazda 3. Even though I told them that I thought it was the EGR valve on the first visit. They did not even look at that part until the 3rd trip. It ended up being the EGR valve.

If you trust a mechanic stick with them. I have a mechanic in BBY that I always take my car to.
Banned
Jul 24, 2009
834 posts
577 upvotes
kitchener
HailHydra wrote: Thanks everyone for your input. Now last question is: should I go to the local Mazda dealership to get this fixed / get a 2nd opinion, or go to my local mechanic? My dad is quite adamant about not trusting any mechanic and only doing it in dealerships because "it's more trustworthy". The local mechanic I go to in question:

NAPA AUTOPRO - Poco Automotive in Port Coquitlam, BC.

Also, should I use NAPA parts to fix it, or OEM mazda parts? I heard some people say Mazda bushings fail quick.
Most dealers are a big rip-off mills.
Go with independent mechanic, but read the reviews first.
Thise parts you mentioned are fairly easy to replace...if you get just the parts and do it yourself, you can probably save around $700 or so.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 1, 2007
3838 posts
1118 upvotes
Scarborough
I'm selling the exact same car lol! Similar mileage too!

At that mileage, is recommend selling truthfully
[OP]
Banned
Dec 17, 2017
1014 posts
1054 upvotes
flamez1000 wrote: I'm selling the exact same car lol! Similar mileage too!

At that mileage, is recommend selling truthfully
But like others said, if I buy another used car it could have more serious problems. At least this car I know I only have bushing problems.

Top