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2014 BMW 320i XDrive w/56,117 km for $26k. Good deal or no?

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[OP]
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
610 posts
312 upvotes
EAST YORK

2014 BMW 320i XDrive w/56,117 km for $26k. Good deal or no?

This isn't the base bare-bones 320i - comes with the heated leather seats, moonroof, xenon lights etc etc. The mileage seems decent if we're taking 20k per year as the average and the price is pretty attractive. This is from a franchise dealership. Worth checking out?
32 replies
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May 4, 2014
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kooroshkabir wrote: 20k per year time 2=40k not 56k
Model year 2014 is typically a 2013 car, and we are mid-way through 2016, so should be nearly 3 years on the road already.

OP, I can summarize what the thread will look like for you when you check back in a few hours:
1) RFDers who will tell you to steer clear of used Germans.
2) RFDers who will criticize the above group for not having actually owned any German cars and/or call BS, proceeds to tell you about their excellent experience/luck with their 201x _____.
Newbie
Jun 4, 2016
56 posts
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Good deal! Pull the trigger if you like it
Deal Addict
Aug 1, 2007
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Looked at the specific vehicle ure referring to OP....to me it looks like a decent deal. For that price ($26k pre tax), you're either stuck with an econo box or that. I'd take that BMW anyday. Mileage is pretty much spot on - Average 2000km/month * 28 months (vehicle is registered in Feb. 2014)

Just go to a BMW dealership and confirm all the scheduled maintenance are done, that car comes with 4 years free scheduled maintenance so there's no reason why they were not done, unless its purposely neglected by the previous owner.

Also make sure you get an independent inspection done and secure a good finance rate.
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Jul 30, 2007
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sounds like a pretty good deal (from a bmw store) as long everything checks out. Is this CPO ? (getting +2 yrs of extended warranty coveage). If it is, then it's a good deal.
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Aug 1, 2007
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booblehead wrote: sounds like a pretty good deal (from a bmw store) as long everything checks out. Is this CPO ? (getting +2 yrs of extended warranty coveage). If it is, then it's a good deal.
non-CPO from an Acura dealership
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ok. Still seems a bit lower than I expect from a dealership pricing. Car brand new at the time was around $43,000 MSRP.

The big wear & tear items you should check out during PPI (your own mechanic or at a bmw dealership) is to find out how much brakes pads & rotors are left and how much tread left on tires. If you have to get them replaced immediately, then these will be $2500 - 3000 range you need to spend (judging by the kms on the clock). After getting all the required docs, like carproof, any service records and your ppi report, then you can consider the price as being good or not.
[OP]
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
610 posts
312 upvotes
EAST YORK
booblehead wrote: ok. Still seems a bit lower than I expect from a dealership pricing. Car brand new at the time was around $43,000 MSRP.

The big wear & tear items you should check out during PPI (your own mechanic or at a bmw dealership) is to find out how much brakes pads & rotors are left and how much tread left on tires. If you have to get them replaced immediately, then these will be $2500 - 3000 range you need to spend (judging by the kms on the clock). After getting all the required docs, like carproof, any service records and your ppi report, then you can consider the price as being good or not.
Thanks for the advice. How does the PPI examination process work? Do i just tell the dealership that I need to take the car to a private mechanic or a BMW dealership? Or do they have to bring someone in to the dealership to do the check? Do dealerships let you take the car for an examination when it hasn't been sold to you yet?
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Mar 14, 2006
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in before 320i budget baller etc etc

on a serious note. i drove one as a loaner, definitely fast enough for most ppl.
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Sep 29, 2008
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Toronto - Markham/Sc…
booblehead wrote: ok. Still seems a bit lower than I expect from a dealership pricing. Car brand new at the time was around $43,000 MSRP.

The big wear & tear items you should check out during PPI (your own mechanic or at a bmw dealership) is to find out how much brakes pads & rotors are left and how much tread left on tires. If you have to get them replaced immediately, then these will be $2500 - 3000 range you need to spend (judging by the kms on the clock). After getting all the required docs, like carproof, any service records and your ppi report, then you can consider the price as being good or not.
Where are you getting brakes (all 4) and tires for $2500? Are they gold plated?

Seriously though, 4 tires (17") shouldn't be more than $800 and no more than $300 for full brake service. This is of course through a private mechanic or significantly cheaper if you do it yourself. All 4 wheels are disc brakes and BMW is super easy to change out due to torx retaining bolt on the rotors.

That service with new tires shouldn't be more than $1000-$1500 range.
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amkorp wrote: Where are you getting brakes (all 4) and tires for $2500? Are they gold plated?

Seriously though, 4 tires (17") shouldn't be more than $800 and no more than $300 for full brake service. This is of course through a private mechanic or significantly cheaper if you do it yourself. All 4 wheels are disc brakes and BMW is super easy to change out due to torx retaining bolt on the rotors.

That service with new tires shouldn't be more than $1000-$1500 range.
Brake service, do you mean for them to inspect & adjust ? At nearly 60,000km, do you suppose the brakes still have plenty left of the pads & rotors. Of course, you can source the parts yourself and even get some cheapy aftermarket from say Rock Auto, no question about this at all. If OP were to go to the bmw dealer for pads & rotors replacement, you think you can get all 4 brakes done for $300.

As for tires, again, you can source the cheapest Chinese made tires out there too, no questions in this regards. $1200 for a set of 4 runflats if OP elects to continue using them would be the minimum.
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Sep 29, 2008
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booblehead wrote: Brake service, do you mean for them to inspect & adjust ? At nearly 60,000km, do you suppose the brakes still have plenty left of the pads & rotors. Of course, you can source the parts yourself and even get some cheapy aftermarket from say Rock Auto, no question about this at all. If OP were to go to the bmw dealer for pads & rotors replacement, you think you can get all 4 brakes done for $300.

As for tires, again, you can source the cheapest Chinese made tires out there too, no questions in this regards. $1200 for a set of 4 runflats if OP elects to continue using them would be the minimum.
4 sets of pads, 4 new rotors (even drilled if you want that) can be purchased and installed for around $300 at many independant shops. I agree with you that going to the dealer costs much much more, but brakes are brakes. There isn't anything special about BMW brakes that requires you to only get the work done at the dealer.

Run Flats are good in theory, but if you get puncture, you don't have the option of repairing the tire if it was driven on with a significant loss in pressure (which will most likely be the case). This is because the likelyhood of sidewall damage is greater since drivers will have the impression that their tire is ok to drive on due to it being a runflat. Any respectable shop will tell you to replace the tire. Not to mention having it repaired you now have 3 run flats and 1 not.

You can get the OEM Continentals or Perellis non runflats for around $150 - $175 per tire from online tire shops.

What I'm trying to say is if you pay even $2500 for a brake replacement and 4 new tires you are getting hosed big time.
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amkorp wrote: 4 sets of pads, 4 new rotors (even drilled if you want that) can be purchased and installed for around $300 at many independant shops. I agree with you that going to the dealer costs much much more, but brakes are brakes. There isn't anything special about BMW brakes that requires you to only get the work done at the dealer.

Run Flats are good in theory, but if you get puncture, you don't have the option of repairing the tire if it was driven on with a significant loss in pressure (which will most likely be the case). This is because the likelyhood of sidewall damage is greater since drivers will have the impression that their tire is ok to drive on due to it being a runflat. Any respectable shop will tell you to replace the tire. Not to mention having it repaired you now have 3 run flats and 1 not.

You can get the OEM Continentals or Perellis non runflats for around $150 - $175 per tire from online tire shops.

What I'm trying to say is if you pay even $2500 for a brake replacement and 4 new tires you are getting hosed big time.
I agree. There are some many, many owners out there still opt to go to dealers for servicing, regardless
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baddoctor wrote: Thanks for the advice. How does the PPI examination process work? Do i just tell the dealership that I need to take the car to a private mechanic or a BMW dealership? Or do they have to bring someone in to the dealership to do the check? Do dealerships let you take the car for an examination when it hasn't been sold to you yet?
For PPI, you can ask the Acura dealer used car sales person to bring the car to your designated shop to do PPI, if dealer agrees, then have them meet you there while the mechanic goes thru the car entirely. If the mechanic is good, then he may inform you of his findings and opinions.

If you are in the GTA, there are many well known indep shop like RMP Motors that does a pretty good PPI job.
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Jan 15, 2006
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Avoid all turbo bmw's. You've been warned.
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Mar 14, 2006
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EP32k2 wrote: Avoid all turbo bmw's. You've been warned.
nothing wrong with the N20 engines. N54 had alot of problems, yes.
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mingyang wrote: nothing wrong with the N20 engines. N54 had alot of problems, yes.
You can believe what you want. I have first hand knowledge of this. N20's have turbo issues. Basically do not own a turbo BMW with no warranty.
Penalty Box
Nov 25, 2013
992 posts
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At least get the 328i

320i is too slow, Grandpa in Camry V6 will smoke you with a huge smile on his face

If that's what you want it's your money

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