Automotive

2016 ES350 Brake replacement & rotors cost

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  • Oct 5th, 2020 4:52 pm
[OP]
Sr. Member
Nov 25, 2009
568 posts
326 upvotes
Vancouver

2016 ES350 Brake replacement & rotors cost

Hello, I was given this quote on all 4 brakes replacement and rotor machining. For some reason $930 for all brakes and rotors feel a little expensive. This is quoted by the Toyota dealer.

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I didn't go for the brakes yet since they're still at 20% and I'm not driving much because of WFH (maybe go for it in a month or two). However they scamming me/trying to charge me Lexus prices? How much should it really be?
35 replies
Deal Expert
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Mar 18, 2005
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Niagara Falls
Perhaps I'm missing something, cause I'm not mechanic, but looking at Rock Auto that does seem insane. You can get a the centric front and rear pads and rotor kits for 240 + shipping. They aren't even replacing the rotors, they're just machining them. Find a reputable mechanic and get the work done elsewhere.
Deal Guru
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Jul 12, 2003
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Not surprise, dealership always charge 30 - 40% more than if you bring it to some indy shops.
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Deal Addict
Jul 19, 2004
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Can't be sure without actually looking at it, but when they say 20% there's usually still a ton of life left. You can probably have them check it again next oil change and see where you're at. But yes, cheapest for you would be to grab whatever pads on Rockauto and getting a shop do it for you cash.
Deal Expert
Jun 30, 2006
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Brand new Brakes and Rotors will be $300-$400 and add another $150 for labor. So total is around $550 for new rotors not just machined.
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Aug 30, 2020
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Never got the "Cheaper on rock auto lol stealership" comments.

It's like comparing a Canada A grade steak you bought at Price Chopper to a Canada Prime Waygu steak at a butcher. Are they both steaks? Sure.

Not saying all aftermarket parts are bad, but OEM parts are often pricier for a reason. I've had aftermarket pads that were noisy, dusty, weak performance, and didn't last as long. And for rotors, I would much rather machine an OEM rotor than replace with an aftermarket. My current car has OEM rotors over 150 000km because they weren't abused (Low-medium braking over a longer distance instead of sudden sharp braking at the last minute, engine braking instead of long braking down hills, doing a few brakes around the neighbourhood to clean rotors off after a rainstorm or car wash) and no sign of warp or brake fade. Meanwhile, I bought a pair of aftermarket rotors on my previous car and they warped in less than 10k km from regular driving.

OP, those are prices for dealership labour and OEM parts. A shop could probably do it for $500 or less. But even with 20% left that's a lot of life. Depending on rim design you could probably look at the pads and determine the level yourself.
Deal Addict
Mar 3, 2018
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Just had my 2013 RX350 original brakes checked last month where my independent mechanic told me I had 20% brakes left. He told me to come back in a year to replace. The lexus dealer recommended two years ago the same brakes needed replacement soon. Point is the dealer service department is their biggest profit maker.
[OP]
Sr. Member
Nov 25, 2009
568 posts
326 upvotes
Vancouver
O i see, in that case considering I'm probably going to put in 400km a month this winter I'll probably opt to hold off till end of year...

Or maybe I'll find a deal during boxing Day and black Friday and get the brakes/rotors!

Thanks a lot guys Smiling Face With Open Mouth And Smiling Eyes
Penalty Box
Mar 23, 2004
30117 posts
10880 upvotes
LOL brakes are always at "20%" when you go to a stealership, or most other "mechanics" for that matter. If they're not 20%, they're "nearly metal on metal!" :lol: Brake jobs are the oldest scam in the stealership playbook. I would make sure your brakes are actually 20% before doing anything.

Also at first I thought that price is actually pretty cheap for dealership pricing and being a Lexus. But since the ES350 is just a glorified Camry the brakes are not pricey. But your thread title (and thoughts perhaps) are misleading. I see why it's less than I expected and also more of a ripoff lol. You aren't getting new rotors for that price. You're getting pads and the rotors you have are being machined not replaced. That's why it's "only" $1k :lol: Good ol' stealership tricks. I bet to replace the rotors you're looking at $1500-2k at stealer.

FWIW I just paid around $600 pre-tax for brakes all around for a car, pads & rotors--parts only. But your Camry there seems like much cheaper from what ppl are saying--probably gonna be $400-500 P&L at an indy mechanic? So overall it's not so bad seems like you can do brakes real cheap on this car. But again your brakes may be at like 50-80%, don't ever trust this stuff about "20%" unless you see the pads yourself.
Sr. Member
Oct 21, 2006
799 posts
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op I wonder how much they're charging to resurface the rotors vs. replacement. I suspect by the time you factor in the labour cost to resurface, it would be very similar to that of getting new rotors. Without a doubt new ones would last longer than ones from 2016.
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Jul 19, 2004
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lawonga wrote: O i see, in that case considering I'm probably going to put in 400km a month this winter I'll probably opt to hold off till end of year...

Or maybe I'll find a deal during boxing Day and black Friday and get the brakes/rotors!

Thanks a lot guys Smiling Face With Open Mouth And Smiling Eyes
At 400km/month you probably don't need brakes until a year or two after. Next time you go have them show and measure how much pad is left. Then you'd get a better idea of how long it'd last.
Deal Addict
Sep 6, 2017
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DaveTheDude wrote: Just had my 2013 RX350 original brakes checked last month where my independent mechanic told me I had 20% brakes left. He told me to come back in a year to replace. The lexus dealer recommended two years ago the same brakes needed replacement soon. Point is the dealer service department is their biggest profit maker.
Point is the dealer collision department is their biggest profit maker.
[OP]
Sr. Member
Nov 25, 2009
568 posts
326 upvotes
Vancouver
ES_Revenge wrote: LOL brakes are always at "20%" when you go to a stealership, or most other "mechanics" for that matter. If they're not 20%, they're "nearly metal on metal!" :lol: Brake jobs are the oldest scam in the stealership playbook. I would make sure your brakes are actually 20% before doing anything.

Also at first I thought that price is actually pretty cheap for dealership pricing and being a Lexus. But since the ES350 is just a glorified Camry the brakes are not pricey. But your thread title (and thoughts perhaps) are misleading. I see why it's less than I expected and also more of a ripoff lol. You aren't getting new rotors for that price. You're getting pads and the rotors you have are being machined not replaced. That's why it's "only" $1k :lol: Good ol' stealership tricks. I bet to replace the rotors you're looking at $1500-2k at stealer.

FWIW I just paid around $600 pre-tax for brakes all around for a car, pads & rotors--parts only. But your Camry there seems like much cheaper from what ppl are saying--probably gonna be $400-500 P&L at an indy mechanic? So overall it's not so bad seems like you can do brakes real cheap on this car. But again your brakes may be at like 50-80%, don't ever trust this stuff about "20%" unless you see the pads yourself.
Yeah I agree, it does seem sketchy... I specced the parts out and got a quote from an indie shop. By the way, the ES350 WAS a glorified Camry until the 2013 year, and now it's just a glorified Avalon Smiling Face With Open Mouth

I could get an 'POWER STOP CRK6480 Evolution Geomet Coated Kit' (the most expensive rotor + pad combo before hitting the drilled & slotted rotors) on RockAuto for $240 before tax... labor is $200 from my quote. Reddit seems to be OK with the 'power stop' brand (except for the drilled ones), but I'm not too sure.

I could get brembo/akebono stuff for around the same price as this dealership job!
[OP]
Sr. Member
Nov 25, 2009
568 posts
326 upvotes
Vancouver
someone16 wrote: At 400km/month you probably don't need brakes until a year or two after. Next time you go have them show and measure how much pad is left. Then you'd get a better idea of how long it'd last.
7 months ago at my last service they told me:
40% front, 35% rears

now it is at:
20% front, 20% rears

so yeah, probably last a while! although I'll probably look to get them replaced soon anyway so I don't forget, if I find some good deals this black friday/boxing day!
Jr. Member
Jun 15, 2015
129 posts
54 upvotes
Calgary, AB
My 2015 camry only 80km, and I went to changed my oil last week. Toyota Mechanic told me to replace front and rear brake, it will cost $1000. When I asked how long it will last, I saw the guy very awkward look sales and his student each other, then said 2month.
Deal Addict
Oct 1, 2015
1830 posts
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Barrie, ON
Don't cheap out on brakes. Buy a Centric kit from RockAuto and be done with it. It's still cheap in the end, I did just my sisters 2013 Kia Soul for $365 all around (rotors + pads).
Deal Guru
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Mar 13, 2004
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What year/model Toyota is it?

i would grab something from Rockauto you can get quality rotors/pads for less.
lawonga wrote: Hello, I was given this quote on all 4 brakes replacement and rotor machining. For some reason $930 for all brakes and rotors feel a little expensive. This is quoted by the Toyota dealer.

Image


I didn't go for the brakes yet since they're still at 20% and I'm not driving much because of WFH (maybe go for it in a month or two). However they scamming me/trying to charge me Lexus prices? How much should it really be?
Penalty Box
Mar 23, 2004
30117 posts
10880 upvotes
lawonga wrote: By the way, the ES350 WAS a glorified Camry until the 2013 year, and now it's just a glorified Avalon Smiling Face With Open Mouth
Whaddya know--learn something new everyday :)
lawonga wrote: I could get an 'POWER STOP CRK6480 Evolution Geomet Coated Kit' (the most expensive rotor + pad combo before hitting the drilled & slotted rotors) on RockAuto for $240 before tax... labor is $200 from my quote. Reddit seems to be OK with the 'power stop' brand (except for the drilled ones), but I'm not too sure.
Yeah that kit seems pretty good. The Geomet coating is actually quite effective and seems to work well. The weird thing about PowerStop is their drilled/slotted rotors don't have the same coating. I think they are zinc plated but that's nothing the same as the Geomet stuff, and will still start to get rusty after a couple winters. Plus their drilled/slotted stuff isn't designed for much more than looks and at that they aren't going to look good over time given the lack of a good coating. Presuming your car is winter driven, definitely get something coated; Geomet is also a coating used by various brands not just Power Stop, FYI.

Also while the Z17 rotors are a good choice, the Z23/26 pads are better--dunno what the price difference would be between getting the rotors and Z23 pads separately or the "whole kit" Z17 stuff. The Z23/26 pads aren't really intended for true "performance driving" as they tend to market them as BTW. They're just very good general use/daily drive pads with strong initial-bite like OEM, while remaining low dust and well wearing. The Z26 are exact same compound BTW, just they have a stainless backing plate. That's what I did with my sister's car anyway I bought the Z17 geomet rotors and Z23 pads. The rotors actually came as their Euro-Stop ECE line but had the same part#--weird. But they still had the coating so no worries. Note that not all Z17 rotors are coated either--they have to specifically say Geomet.

Anyway brakes turned out great on her car, which has 4-piston Brembos up front. She really liked them (again the Z23 have very strong initial bite like most stock pads) and though they've only been on about a year and a half now they are holding up fine. Noticeably less dust than factory too.

Now OTOH when I had to put brakes on the TT (a thread about that elsewhere if you've happened up on it) I decided to go with Powerstop pads as well. Kind of got screwed though as the front pads they fit but have the wrong clip on the back of the outboards, plus there were two wear sensors (as opposed to one on the stock pads) and they were the wrong gender! I had to break the pad clips off, cut one sensor wire off completely, and cut the other one and solder the old connector on, to make it all work. A small pain but didn't want to bother returning. I emailed Power Stop about it (you know so maybe they could either fix it or update their catalogue) but they never even bothered to reply :rolleyes: So I probably wouldn't expect too much "support" from these guys. In the end the pads are great still but just a note on that experience. They don't have rotors listed for this car so I went with Zimmermann all around which have a similar coating to Geomet though this car will only be driven in summer anyway.
lawonga wrote: I could get brembo/akebono stuff for around the same price as this dealership job!
Meh I don't think the low-end "pedestrian" Brembo rotors are all that great TBH. They're pricey because of the name and nothing special. I'd either go with OE or a cost-effective aftermarket brand, but if the Brembos are well priced then that's fine. Akebono makes great stuff for the most part so can't go wrong there either.
Deal Addict
Jun 1, 2008
2887 posts
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Cambridge, ON/Guelph…
CanadianConsumerYEG wrote: Never got the "Cheaper on rock auto lol stealership" comments.

It's like comparing a Canada A grade steak you bought at Price Chopper to a Canada Prime Waygu steak at a butcher. Are they both steaks? Sure.

Not saying all aftermarket parts are bad, but OEM parts are often pricier for a reason. I've had aftermarket pads that were noisy, dusty, weak performance, and didn't last as long. And for rotors, I would much rather machine an OEM rotor than replace with an aftermarket. My current car has OEM rotors over 150 000km because they weren't abused (Low-medium braking over a longer distance instead of sudden sharp braking at the last minute, engine braking instead of long braking down hills, doing a few brakes around the neighbourhood to clean rotors off after a rainstorm or car wash) and no sign of warp or brake fade. Meanwhile, I bought a pair of aftermarket rotors on my previous car and they warped in less than 10k km from regular driving.

OP, those are prices for dealership labour and OEM parts. A shop could probably do it for $500 or less. But even with 20% left that's a lot of life. Depending on rim design you could probably look at the pads and determine the level yourself.
The reason is that you can also get OEM parts from rock auto.

I order all my vw oil filters from them for $13 each, they are the exact same part that the dealer charges $27 for.

I just did my brakes and ordered a set of pagid/hella rotors and pads for just under $400 including shipping. These are OE, and although they don't have the vw logo on them, they are the same parts that vw uses.

The dealer quoted me $750 for the pads and rotors. The savings are definitely worth it.
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Oct 3, 2017
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carmaster wrote: Brand new Brakes and Rotors will be $300-$400 and add another $150 for labor. So total is around $550 for new rotors not just machined.
Those machined OEM rotors will perform and last a lot longer than cheap aftermarket rotors. And if you like to stop oem pads will also be better than aftermarket.

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