2017 Civic EX, dead battery replacement

Seriously.... If the car has no electrical issues and the alternator is working properly.

Since the car is 3 YEARS OLD and out of warranty. Call a wrecker and go get one from them for 35.00 to 40.00 dollars with a 30 day guarantee. With all the civics being crashed you might find one that is just a couple of months old.

What do you mean that the battery 'died'?

I'm asking because batteries could have physical damage causing the battery not to start the car OR the battery is just low on charge. In both situations, the behaviour of the car is typically the same - the car won't start and maybe the accessories work (ie radio turns on or door locks work). The difference between the two is one can be 'fixed' and the other can't. A battery that is low on charge just needs to be charged with an external charger to full - and NO, just driving your car around the block or letting it idle for 10 minutes won't do much of anything for long. A battery that has physical damage - ie one of the battery's cells are broken - can't be charged or fixed and needs to be replaced.

craftsman wrote: ↑ What do you mean that the battery 'died'?

I'm asking because batteries could have physical damage causing the battery not to start the car OR the battery is just low on charge. In both situations, the behaviour of the car is typically the same - the car won't start and maybe the accessories work (ie radio turns on or door locks work). The difference between the two is one can be 'fixed' and the other can't. A battery that is low on charge just needs to be charged with an external charger to full - and NO, just driving your car around the block or letting it idle for 10 minutes won't do much of anything for long. A battery that has physical damage - ie one of the battery's cells are broken - can't be charged or fixed and needs to be replaced.

Drove the car back from up north, a 250 KM trip. In the morning could not start the car. Some lights show up, but no cranking.

reggyDeal wrote: ↑ My 2017 civic EX battery just died. 4 months after the warranty expired.

Welp, them's the breaks unfortunately.

reggyDeal wrote: ↑The dealer said it is a group 47 battery which is $200. Canadian tire thinks that battery group 51R is the right one. (currenlty $20 off). Read AGM batteries than OEM lead acid. Any suggestions where I should buy the next battery?

The dealer is probably right about the size but $200 seems like a lot.

reggyDeal wrote: ↑Some people also upgrade their civic batteries to something larger like a group 35. Though not sure if that would void any warranty. As I have a power train warranty up to 160K km, which I'd like to keep.

LOL that's not going to "void your warranty".

reggyDeal wrote: ↑Canadian tire also has the group 47 AGM battery ($20 off). This AGM battery better than buying from the dealer? I assume they have the lead-acid battery?

AGM batteries are lead acid. But I wouldn't recommend you bother spending the extra for one TBH. Just go to Costco and buy a Kirkland flooded (standard) lead-acid for your car, upgrade the size if you wish, and be done with it. If you don't have Costblo membership you can also try Walmart...or CT if you wish, wherever is cheapest for a decent battery.

+costco

reggyDeal wrote: ↑ Drove the car back from up north, a 250 KM trip. In the morning could not start the car. Some lights show up, but no cranking.

Did you try starting your car before the next morning - ie stop along the 250 Km trip? A battery that is physically broken will typically not allow you to the car again soon after you stopped. However, a battery that wasn't charged would exhibit the behaviour that you are seeing.

I would get the battery charged up first and then get the battery, and alternator, tested first before replacing the battery. It's possible that the alternator is bad as well as the battery so it's a good idea to get both tested.

If your battery is dead after a long drive, the issue is most likely the alternator and not the battery.
The alternator recharge the battery while you drive so even if your battery cannot hold a huge charge, it should still be toped up enough after driving that much.

Agreed on Costco. Bought a Kirkland battery 2 years ago to replace the one that died in our 2010 Civic, $110. No fuss no muss.

ovni121 wrote: ↑ If your battery is dead after a long drive, the issue is most likely the alternator and not the battery.
The alternator recharge the battery while you drive so even if your battery cannot hold a huge charge, it should still be toped up enough after driving that much.

Unless of course, the battery is truly dead but that typically happens with an older battery... hence, my recommendation to test the battery and alternator.

Agree with others, something is wrong that a 2017 needs a battery replacement.

In comparison, I only just changed the OEM battery on my 2013 car. And it could still start my car just fine, I just wanted to replace it before this winter. I also killed the battery multiple times by accidentally leaving the dome light on, and after a 20-40km drive after a boost it would charge it enough that it started the next day. Something is wrong for your battery to not start after a 250km trip.

In order of most to least likely -

1. You have some sort of parasitic draw. Any mods are done to the car? Are you accidentally leaving lights on? Any power/USB ports that are always on even with car off?

2. Alternator is not charging properly

3. Battery is dead. And for a 3 year old battery to die, it better be leaking acid everywhere.

Check out the battery FAQ, it's a great resource to diagnose what is your problem.

Batteries are super easy to swap unless they're in some ridiculous location.

I had battery issues with a Smart Car...that was a ridiculous location....passenger footwell.

Did you try to jump or better yet charge the battery overnight and then see if it works?

If you do need to buy a new one then go buy one from Costco, I also suggest you go for the bigger size as long as it fits, more cranking power the better. If the dealer wants $200 then it better be AGM if not then for that price you can buy an AGM battery from Costco or another place

Search for it here - https://a.sellpoint.net//w/spworld/p.ht ... 20Selector

reggyDeal wrote: ↑ My 2017 civic EX battery just died. 4 months after the warranty expired. I think the accessory mode killed it, I should have killed it earlier while it was still under warranty.

The dealer said it is a group 47 battery which is $200. Canadian tire thinks that battery group 51R is the right one. (currenlty $20 off). Read AGM batteries than OEM lead acid. Any suggestions where I should buy the next battery?

Some people also upgrade their civic batteries to something larger like a group 35. Though not sure if that would void any warranty. As I have a power train warranty up to 160K km, which I'd like to keep.

Appears the new civic batteries Group 47 now have 650 CCA, instead of the original 550 CCA.

Any suggestions, anyone have to already swap their battery from their Civic?

Canadian tire also has the group 47 AGM battery ($20 off). This AGM battery better than buying from the dealer? I assume they have the lead-acid battery?

The warranty is prorated so the third year of 50% of the part cost, plus full labour. You're better off buying a Kirkland with the full warranty.