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[2021 CODE UPDATE] Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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Sep 4, 2005
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Toronto
emale wrote: I have my treadmill in my basement. Room has 6 halogen potlights.

When I m using the treadmill , the potlights continuously dim slightly and go back to normal.

Is it because the treadmill power outlet and potlights are on same circuit ? Treadmill rating is 12 amp.

Will changing to LED potlights fix the issue ?
Yeah, typical circuit is 15 amps, and old halogens potlights suck a lot of juice too.
The best solution is running a new circuit for just the treadmill (or plug it into another circuit with nothing on it.
Replacing the old potlights with LEDs should also fix the issue. But sometimes led potlights instead of flickering may shut off or ask weird (rather than dimming).

James Stonehenge wrote: If I’m installing a tp link switch in a 3 gang box and the one I’m removing has a load wire that is also attached to the “dumb” switch beside it (both wrapped around the nut on the side of the “ dumb” switch, can I simply remove the load wire that is wrapped around the nut in the switch I’m removing and attach it to the load wire from the tp link switch and then marret all three ?
In the pic, green went to the blue marret behind it with the tp link live wire. Pink went to the other tp link black wire as well as the wire that was around the nut (also connected to the side but on the dumb switch next to it). White went to the marret of whites bundled and the ground went to the copper ground screw at the back of the box.
This correct?
There was also a bundle capped with a marret of bare copper wires. I didn’t touch these.C0636D78-34E3-467E-A4F8-FF09BF25606E.jpeg
I dumb switch has just two black connections. Hot coming in, and hot going out to whatever is being switched on and off.

It sounds like this smart switch needs to be powered all the time, likely to remain on wifi and send data to whereever.
So yeah, you want to hook up the white to the common neutrals (assuming that whole box is on a single circuit), you should be hooking up the green to the twisted bare wires.

Then likely you need two hot wires? One to power the switch, the other to be similar to the dumb hot coming in, then have the hot going out to whatever is being switched.
This seems weird, I don't know why the switch would need two hots coming in.

Post the model number or the link to the instructions.


If you're tapping off the 3-way for power, just make sure it's where the power is coming in, not the dog leg. Or else as you turn that on and off you'll lose power to your TP switch.
Also make sure you're not using the 2 travelers. Typically they are installed wrong/mislabeled.
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Dec 25, 2012
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Super_Chicken wrote: Yeah, typical circuit is 15 amps, and old halogens potlights suck a lot of juice too.
The best solution is running a new circuit for just the treadmill (or plug it into another circuit with nothing on it.
Replacing the old potlights with LEDs should also fix the issue. But sometimes led potlights instead of flickering may shut off or ask weird (rather than dimming).




I dumb switch has just two black connections. Hot coming in, and hot going out to whatever is being switched on and off.

It sounds like this smart switch needs to be powered all the time, likely to remain on wifi and send data to whereever.
So yeah, you want to hook up the white to the common neutrals (assuming that whole box is on a single circuit), you should be hooking up the green to the twisted bare wires.

Then likely you need two hot wires? One to power the switch, the other to be similar to the dumb hot coming in, then have the hot going out to whatever is being switched.
This seems weird, I don't know why the switch would need two hots coming in.

Post the model number or the link to the instructions.


If you're tapping off the 3-way for power, just make sure it's where the power is coming in, not the dog leg. Or else as you turn that on and off you'll lose power to your TP switch.
Also make sure you're not using the 2 travelers. Typically they are installed wrong/mislabeled.
Thanks. It’s the tp link hs 200. I installed another one of these bases on instructions in this thread but that was a single switch and did not have the shared wire on the side screw of both dumb switches.

So my dumb switch has three black wires. Two pushed in connections top and bottom and one on the side. I attached one black wire from the tp link switch to the top black wire (live) and the other two black wires (load) to the other tp link black switch. I was just confused because one of these two wires (load) is also attached to a screw on the side of the dumb switch adjacent to the tp link switch.

Is this a load daisy chain? (I’m very dumb when it comes to this)

Don’t worry power is off at the breaker
JS
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Aug 13, 2011
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Scarborough southwes…
The wall anchors have come off and the electrical mast is not supported in any way.
My neighbour said I need to get an electrician to do this even though it's a simple fix.
Is that true or can I just pop in some new anchors using lag bolts or masonry screws?
Got some tap cons sitting in the tool box that should do it.
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Jan 6, 2002
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24pixel wrote:
I asked builder if this island will be fastened to the floor, and they replied that it will be fastened if I decide to pay to include a receptacle.
I was surprised by their insistence to not include an outlet as a standard feature. My island is 120inch long and 36 inch wide and has cabinets, countertop, and no rollers that make this an easily moveable object.
The builder considers this a freestanding island and will only include an outlet if I pay $300 for it. Is the builder's position correct?
I bet $50 to your favourite charity, that if you DON'T select the outlet, they still build and physically and permanently attach the island the same way as everyone else.

Then you can file a Tarion 30-day deficiency saying the construction is not to code. :grin:
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Sep 4, 2005
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James Stonehenge wrote: Thanks. It’s the tp link hs 200. I installed another one of these bases on instructions in this thread but that was a single switch and did not have the shared wire on the side screw of both dumb switches.

So my dumb switch has three black wires. Two pushed in connections top and bottom and one on the side. I attached one black wire from the tp link switch to the top black wire (live) and the other two black wires (load) to the other tp link black switch. I was just confused because one of these two wires (load) is also attached to a screw on the side of the dumb switch adjacent to the tp link switch.

Is this a load daisy chain? (I’m very dumb when it comes to this)

Don’t worry power is off at the breaker

It's hard to follow along with your explanation.
The simple answer here is when you wire this to the new TP link switch, marrette the green circle on one of the blacks; and marrette the pink and blue circles to the other black.
Then connect a ground (bare copper), and white neutral with all the other white neutrals.


As an aside: to confirm everything is on one circuit, there should just be one large grouping of white neutrals. If you've got two or more groupings (unlikely, but anything is possible) then it's likely you've got more than one circuit in that box.
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Jun 21, 2003
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Stoney Creek, ON
willowberry wrote: Are splice kits like this one legit for repairing a cut cable underground? Ontario
The description states 60v maximum which would mean you could not use the product on a 120V circuit. It could be an Amazon error as reviewers claim is rated for higher but personally I wouldn't order that specific one and take the risk the description is accurate. As well I can not see any indication of CSA certification on the product listing. If the product you use is not CSA approved you can not use it and still meet code. There are legitimate underground splice kits just make sure to get one CSA approved.

Is your cable buried to proper depth? (18"). If not the proper fix would be to replace the cable with a new one buried to required depth.
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Jul 22, 2009
394 posts
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Toronto
I am just finishing a kitchen renovation and have a question about power for a garburator.

My understanding is that if hardwired, it has to be on a dedicated circuit. Is that correct?

Mine is a plug in model.

My plan is to branch circuit two 20 amp t, GFCI outlets on the island. One facing the outside to meet island outlet requirements and the other on tge inside that the garburator can be plugged into.

Is there any problem with this approach?
Its nice to be important, but more important to be nice.
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Jun 21, 2003
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Stoney Creek, ON
xmdkx4u2nv wrote: I am just finishing a kitchen renovation and have a question about power for a garburator.

My understanding is that if hardwired, it has to be on a dedicated circuit. Is that correct?

Mine is a plug in model.

My plan is to branch circuit two 20 amp t, GFCI outlets on the island. One facing the outside to meet island outlet requirements and the other on tge inside that the garburator can be plugged into.

Is there any problem with this approach?
Island receptacles are considered counter receptacles requiring a dedicated circuit. I think you’ll run in to potential problems sharing it, though I’ve never personally tried that situation so an inspector may allow it.

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