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[Amazon & BestBuy] Airthings Radon detectors - $149-249.99

  • Last Updated:
  • Dec 19th, 2019 12:00 pm
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[Amazon & BestBuy] Airthings Radon detectors - $149-249.99

There was a RFD thread about radon detectors a while back for 179.99.
It's now cheaper for 149$ at both bestbuy and amazon.

Airthings also have an app version that detects humidity and temperature also on sale, along with another version that includes other detections.

Airthings Corentium Radon Gas Monitor - 149$-149.99$
https://www.amazon.ca/Corentium-Airthin ... ref=sr_1_5
https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/ai ... r/10757507

Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector with Free App & Web Dashboard - Gen 1 - 185.95$ with 35$ coupon = 150.95$
https://www.amazon.ca/Airthings-AS-2900 ... r_1_1_sspa

Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector with Free App & Web Dashboard - Gen 2 - 179$-179.99$
https://www.amazon.ca/Airthings-AS-2900 ... B07WWV7K3K
https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/ai ... r/13552123

Airthings Wave Plus Indoor Air Quality Monitor with Radon Detection - 249.99$
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JB8QWH6
https://www.bestbuy.ca/en-ca/product/ai ... n/13508044
39 replies
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Jun 29, 2017
437 posts
1470 upvotes
Nice find OP!

Here are my notes on radon for those who are interested.

House - Radon information

Some info on radon:
- https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/ ... radon.html
- https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/ ... -2013.html

Canada recommends levels be below 200; I believe US and UK recommend levels be below 100.

*** Some stats ***
Thanks to @RETD: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30192179
Radon Level Lifetime Probability of Getting Lung Cancer
Smoker* Base Level 12%
Smoker 200 Bq/m3 17%
Smoker 800 Bq/m3 30%
Non-Smoker Base Level 1%
Non-Smoker 200 Bq/m3 2%
Non-Smoker 800 Bq/m3 5%

*** Fluctuations: ***
Radon fluctuates through the year and weeks. In Ottawa, our house is around 130 in a dry summer, 175 in a wet summer and about 230 in winter with our HRV running.

*** Here are some things that can make radon increase: ***
- Colder weather, especially winter. Radon can't escape as easily through the soil.
- Rain. Radon can't escape as easily through water logged soil.
- Anything that vents outside (e.g. range hood fan, dryer, portable A/C). This will draw air of the house, which needs to be replaced. air/radon from the soil under your house may be pulled in.
- HRV / air exchanger issues (see section below)

*** Guides: ***
Health Canada: Reducing Radon Levels in Existing Homes: A Canadian Guide for Professional Contractors
https://carst.ca/resources/Documents/Re ... tors-E.pdf

*** Radon detectors ***
There are several - just read @tpirovol notes: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30102242
Another: Corentium Home by Airthings https://forums.redflagdeals.com/amazon- ... 9-2319071/

Details about some testers from @tpirovol https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30122897
Calibration / Warrant
Airthings - 10 year / 1 year
RadonEye - Over 740bq for extended period of time / 1 year
Safe Siren Pro 3 - 1 year / 1 year

*** Mitigation: Sub-slab depressurization ***
The big one is sub-slab depressurization. Create a hole in your basement slab and vent outside from there.
Cost: ~$2500-3500 + tax done by a company. DIY $400-800 (~2 days).
There are some actions (below) that are required before this action (e.g. sump pit sealing, crack/hole sealing).
Below are some other easier starting points.
At bottom is more detailed info about DIY'ing it.

*** DIY migitation: HRV Air Exchanger ***
- Ensure your HRV is running. We stopped ours for week and radon went from 200 to 500. In Ottawa, we have a fan speed of 4 throughout the year. In summer, it's set to 40 mins re-circulate / 20 mins fresh air. In winter, it's 100% fresh air. These settings aren't the best for our HVAC systems in the dead of summer or winter. We're still experimenting with what's best.
- Ensure the HRV outside inlet cover/screen is clear of debris. When we bought our home it was fully plugged.
- Clean the filters on your HRV monthly. Check the filters on your furnace regularly too.
- Ensure your HRV is properly balanced. Radon Works recommended 15% positive. This is recommendation is to account for replacement of vented air (HWT, range hood, open window, etc) and the slowing of airflow due to filters.
- Optional: RadoStat (controls HRV based on radon level) - http://radoncorp.com/mitigation/radostat.php . Anyone used this?
- Note: An HRV that is unbalanced can have negative or positive pressure.
-- positive pressure draws less air in from outside and keeps more of the same air circulating in the home. This can cause radon gas to build up and not be vented.
-- negative pressure pushes more air out of the house than it is drawing in. Then air/radon gets pulled in from cracks to replace the vented air.

*** DIY migitation: Crack, holes, vents ***
- Seal cracks in cement basement floors and walls (where exposed). Our radon mitigator recommended this: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.self ... 84903.html
- Optional: Some window wells have drains that connect to the weeping tile around your house. Make sure these stay clear in winter to allow radon to vent out. (We added PVC pipe about 4 feet up).
-- Note: We considered adding a fan to this PVC piping to draw air out, but Radon Works said fans are prone to freezing in our climate in the winter.

*** DIY Mitigation: Sump pits (required) ***
- An unsealed sump pit is a common source of radon in the home. The mitigators I spoke to wouldn't evaluate our home until the sump was sealed.
- Weeping tile enters the pit, and if not submersed under water, this allows air/gases from under your house to easily enter the home.
- An air tight seal for your sump pit is typically required before radon mitigators will do anything. I did something like this:
- Adding a ventilation fan to a sump seal is not recommended if there are open drains / weeping tiles that enter the pit. You'll essentially be drawing a large volume of air from outside. If you do choose to go this route, a high airflow fan was recommended like the RN3 https://www.radondetect.ca/fantech-rn3- ... n-fan.html
- Dranjer makes drains that can be used in sealing a sump pit, so that if there is a water leak, the water can still make it to your pit and be pumped out by the sump pump: http://www.radondetect.ca/dranjer-floor-drains/

*** DIY migitation: Seal where the slab meets the wall. ***
Newer homes, built to code, should have a proper seal where the slab meets the wall, but many do not. If the vapor barrier was done perfectly, then the radon may seep up the walls and outside. Otherwise, accessing & sealing where the slab meets wall will help stop radon from entering the home. However, this is time consuming & challenging and may not solve the problem if small cracks are missed. Sub-slab depressurization would be better if one can afford it.
The sealing is often challenging since the following can be in the way: stud, vapor barrier, baseboards, drywall.
Caulking can be used if the crack is easily accessible, but if not, then 2lb spray foam can be used as follows:
-- remove the baseboards
-- cut off a 3" strip of drywall (at bottom)
-- cut through vapor barrier
-- use 2 part 2 lb spray foam (must be mixed). Not the one-time use stuff in spray can. ~$400
-- put spray foam where slab meets wall.
-- replace baseboards with 5" high baseboard to cover removed drywall.

********* DIY Mitigation: Sub-slab depressurization *********
- First you should try and seal your sump pit, and any holes/cracks in slab, otherwise with sub-slab depressurization, you will suck air out of your house through those holes.
- Reading the guide mentioned above is also helpful.
- @MikeB84225 says: Bought the fan ($200 - see below), pvc pipe, pvc cement, sandpaper, backer rod, hydaulic cement, silicone, rubber couplings AND rented hammer drill to get through basement ($40).
- @tpirovol "If you're going to DIY then I would hire a pro to come out and do an assessment. This way you will know what size fan, ensure the placement is correct and find any issues that might need to be addressed. I would then pay him a little more to make the hole in the ground and outside of your house. This is service almost all of the good pro’s offer!"

*** Basic overview of Steps ***
from @muffin_man: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30192332
"If your house is reasonably new it should have gravel underneath the basement slab. Then you only need to install a low power fan. I got mine as a kit from radondetect.ca that comes with all the adapters needed to connect to 3 inch ABS pipe. Get 3 inch ABS pipe from homedepot, rent a rotary hammer, get a 3 1/8 inch hole saw for siding and get a tube of polyurethane caulking for masonry. Find a suitable location. Mine is in one of the corner of the basement. Use the rotary hammer to drill a circle that would approximately fit the 3 inch pipe, sledge hammer out the concrete in center of the circle, then use the rotary hammer / hand chisel to chip away the ragged edge to fit the pipe. Drill a 3 1/8 inch hole on the side of the wall. If it's wood + vinyl siding it should be very easy to drill out. Glue the pipes with ABS cement and install the fan. I didn't use any bracing for the fan as the assembly is very solid. Seal the pipe to the slab with polyurethane caulking. Also seal any cracks on the slab with remaining caulking."

*** Venting ***
- In Canada, venting can go out the side of the house. In the US, venting has to go through the roof.
- In Canada, it's recommended the fan be inside.

*** The fan ***
- See list of common ones at bottom.
- The fan must be vertical. It moves up to 2L of water a day and if placed horizontally, that water will accumulate in the fan.
- "It is recommended that the fan be as far away from the radon source as possible. The fan does a better job pulling the radon than pushing it out." But it will still work fine if it needs to be placed closer to the suction point.
- Things to consider: size, wattage, airflow, noise.
-- Airflow: If the fill below your slab is gravel aggregate, then a lower airflow fan will probably be okay. If it's sand, soil, rock or something that restricts airflow, then you may need a higher airflow.

*** Picking a suction point ***
- Most DIY'ers picked the most convenient corner. Somewhere away from living space since the fan does make noise while running.
- @shockem "I did some research and found that almost everyone including rough ins for new home builds would have the hole near the furnace to keep it in the mechanical room."
- The health canada manual recommends creating test holes and testing suction, but for those who have gravel under their slab, this likely isn't necessary. Most DIY'ers did not do this.
- Exhaust should not be within 1.83 metres of any fresh air intake (HRV, furnace, etc) based on:
- There are code restrictions to be followed, see page 46/54 of https://carst.ca/resources/Documents/Re ... tors-E.pdf
- If you have a sump pit:
-- A. you can consider using that if there are no outside surface connections (e.g. window well drain) to the weeping tile that drains into the pit .
-- B. "If you do have surface connections, sump depressurisation will draw cold air down in the winter with a danger of freezing the ground. To prevent this, downspouts should be re-routed to discharge at ground level away from the house and the connections closed. Window well drains can not be closed without a risk of basement flooding. It may be possible to attach a mechanical trap to the window well drainpipe, some units will remain closed against up to ~250 Pa suction, but still open to allow water to drain. Covering the drain openings with filter cloth and sand will reduce airflows but still allow water to drain." From the health canada manual.
-- C. if you can't use the sump to do venting, you may want to consider having it further away from the sump pit to avoid just sucking the air from it.

*** Getting through the slab ***
Recommendations include: hammerdrill, jack hammer drill, rotary drill/hammer, concrete hole saw.
- @shockem "I drilled the hole in the concrete with an old mastercraft drill/hammerdrill combo. I first traced out the hole with a pencil and then drilled 1/4" holes all the way around. After all the holes were drilled I chipped away the center with a hammer and a shop vac. it's easier than you think."
- @MikeB84225 "I rented a Jack Hammer drill/demolition drill from the local rental shop, and picked a few bits (you only pay for bits you use). It took like 30 mins for me alone to get through and remove all the cement and I have ZERO experience using one. It was freaking fun. I only used the chisel tip, it was like a hot knife through butter."
- @muffin_man "I had my own rotary hammer (NOT hammer drill). You just need a small diameter SDS drill. Draw the circle for the pipe on the floor and drill holea all around it. Then with a small sledgehammer, chisel and patience you'll get a hole. Don't worry if it's Not perfect, you just need to fit the pipe and you can then seal with polyurethane caulking later."
- @Drizzt "You can rent a drill and a core bit (cleanest look). I had a hammer drill and bits, so I drilled smaller holes in a circle, then used a cold chisel to knock the center out. Much more difficult though. Maybe not as pretty if you're not careful. I was most worried about pipes and rebar, so also a consideration when picking a spot."
- @instanoodles "Contractor used a concrete hole saw"

*** Below the slab ***
- Generally the recommendation seems to be to remove 5 gallons of gravel.
- "If you have a wet earth (and not gravel) below your slab, you will need to put your arm into the hole you drill in the foundation and dig out a foot or two in each direction. This should allow the pipe, situated well above the bottom of the pit, to pull up an adequate amount of air."

*** Pipe ***
- RadonWorks (in Ottawa) recommends 4" schedule 40 PVC. (double the size of air volume compared to 3" PVC).
- Health Canada manual: "The preferred piping is solvent welded 100 mm (4") Schedule 40 PVC or ABS. This is used for domestic drain, waste and vent plumbing, and the pipe, fixtures, and the skills to install the piping are readily available. A lighter Schedule 20 pipe is available, and is satisfactory where the pipe is unlikely to be damaged. The Plumbing Code can be used as a guide to installation. Systems can use 75 mm (3") pipe in tight spaces, but the pressure drops and air noise will be higher."
- "Pipes made to schedule 40 are:
(a) ABS DWV pipe (black pipe) comes in 1 1/2”, 2”, 3” and 4” (do not use cellular core)
(b) System 636 PVC pipe (white pipe) comes in 2” and 3”
(c) Electrical PVC conduit (grey pipe) comes in 1/2”, 3/4”, 1” 1 1/4”, 1 1/2” and 2”.
I am not aware of Schedule 20 being available in Canada. Cheaper sewer PVC pipe will not work if schedule 40 is required." Q&A here: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ipex-h ... 1000659635
- @CalgaryBen "Many radon mitigation companies will suggest that you have to use Schedule 40 (gas) pipe, but in practice I've found Schedule 20 (drain pipe) more than adequate since we're not dealing with pressurized gases, and Schedule 20 is extremely durable. Most builders here just use Schedule 20 (cheaper) as well, and the elbows and joints tend to be easier to find (some of the elbows I would've needed if putting in Sch40 aren't even carried at Home Depot or Lowe's). Radon mitigation companies will try and sell you on Sch40's lifespan as well as noise/vibration, but I find zero noise with Sch 20 for the radon system (other HVAC/water systems in the home generate much more noise). Oh yeah, and you'll likely need a 3.125" hole saw if you use Sch20, or a 3.25" hole saw for Sch40 (going by memory)... not a 3" hole saw just because it's 3" pipe!!"
- @cheapmother "I did 4" PVC to the fan then 3" PVC out the side of the house because I have a 3" hole saw. 4" hole saws are not cheap."
- when possible use 45 degree elbow instead of 90 degree elbow. A 45 elbow adds 0.5 Vp pressure drop, while a 90 elbow adds a 1 Vp pressure drop. (page 23 of radon guide)
- Outside of the house, the exposed discharge pipe should be short and horizontal. (page 45 of radon guide)
- At the end of the outside pipe, a screen to keep pets out is recommended. @tpirovol used "Pipe Guard for 4" Schedule 20 varmint guard" for outside.
https://www.radonaway.com/products/pipe ... hed-20.php

*** Manometer ***
- Included in fan installation kits like this one: https://radonscan.ca/store/en/radon-red ... gs-71.html
- @[pirovol] says "The pressure device (manometer) needs to be below the fan and not above."
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30104654

*** DIY Examples/ guides ***
Lots of details in forums. Here's some examples and guides:
https://www.familyhandyman.com/smart-ho ... on-system/
https://carst.ca/resources/Documents/Re ... tors-E.pdf
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30192332
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/amazon- ... #p31538840
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30385592
https://www.airthings.com/blog/us/diy-r ... tion-guide

*** Pictures ***
@cheapmother https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30099216
@tpirovol https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30102242
@instanoodles https://forums.redflagdeals.com/amazon- ... #p31536769
@shockem
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30382669
https://forums.redflagdeals.com/best-bu ... #p30385592

*** Radon fans: ***
The two most recommended radon fans are RadonAway RP145 and FanTech Rn2. However, Radon Works (in Ottawa) usually go with a higher cfm fan, something like a FanTech Rn3.

RadonAway RP145 Radon Mitigation Fan, 4-Inch / Great reviews on amazon.ca / Price: $220
- https://www.amazon.ca/RadonAway-23030-1 ... 00294RBFM/
- https://www.radonaway.com/rp145-pro.php
- https://www.radonaway.com/products/rado ... /rp145.php
- If you go with 3" PVC pipe, there are installation kits like this: https://radonscan.ca/store/en/radon-red ... gs-71.html
- This fan just comes with bare wires. If you want to plug into a regular wall socket, you'll need some wire connectors and a replacement cord like one of these :
- https://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky- ... 1000110860
- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00B88EHRK

FanTech Rn2 Radon migitation fan 166 cfm 4.5" duct
- https://www.amazon.ca/Fantech-Rn2-Radon ... B07F6ZYG3B
- https://www.radondetect.ca/fantech-rn2- ... n-fan.html
- Replacement for the well reviewed Fantech HP 2190 Radon Fan, 4.5" Duct, 163 CFM
- For fantech, there are installation kits: http://www.radondetect.ca/installation-kits/
Last edited by robfun on Dec 19th, 2019 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Deal Addict
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Albertariolandbec
Longest post in RFD history? Good work tho
What's in your wallet?
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robfun wrote: Nice find OP!
...........
Holy man awesome post, I was like oh someone mentioned meee....holy, lol

I paid $190 for my Corentium Home by Airthings and $149 is HOT! I 'rented' it out around my work as people were very interested in what I was doing and wanted to test their home, they did not want to wait 100+ days doing the mail test method I did originally.

My device has paid for it self and helped many people.
Member
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Oct 17, 2017
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Thanks OP.

Anybody know the difference between Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector Gen 1 vs Gen 2
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maxpayne77 wrote: Thanks OP.

Anybody know the difference between Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector Gen 1 vs Gen 2
maybe this from Amazon "Airthings Wave 2nd gen has Smartlink functionality, meaning it can connect to the Airthings Hub."

There is no information on the airthings website so I'm guessing it's a cost reduction being sold as an upgrade by some stores.
Last edited by dirtmover on Nov 22nd, 2019 12:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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maxpayne77 wrote: Thanks OP.

Anybody know the difference between Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector Gen 1 vs Gen 2
It's supposed to have a longer Bluetooth range to connect to your device.
It also have something they call smartlink, that would let the gen 2 have a longer battery life of 24months instead of 18months if it is paired with their hub.
So other than the longer Bluetooth range you'll most likely just need the Gen 1.

The corentium seems to be more reliable with a display as some people mention connectivity issues or not manually routinely pulling the data, so the device would clear old measurements from it's internal memory and your data would be incomplete as a result when you do decide to pull in data. That and it requires an online account and only links to 1 email.

I figured i'll still give it a shot as I plan to put it in my crawl space to remotely check the temp and humidity as well.
Sr. Member
May 7, 2007
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Thanks OP. I missed the last sale @190 for the Corentium Home. Got one from Amazon.
Sr. Member
Dec 3, 2010
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robfun wrote: Nice find OP!
Well if after reading your thread anybody here are still paying outrageous amount of money for a company to do it they definitely got more money than brain. Awesome summary, wish I had this before I did mine.
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Worth noting that your library may have these to borrow. Mine did.
Deals are on the way!
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I just attended in class education seminar from Pinchin environmental about this last week. They are offering them across the country, check out their website to enrol in a seminar. Free food was included!
If you like them, please be sure to up vote my posts! When you upvote my posts, this is what happens:
My wife loves me more😂, my car goes faster😎, my house becomes bigger😐, My boss gives me a raise😁.

Fact check, none of the above is valid.
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May 11, 2014
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Thanks for your post robfun, I will have to bookmark it!!! I purchased the basic unit one year ago (RFD induced purchased!!), I used it, borrowed it to friends too. It is expensive, so I recommend trying to borrow one if you want to see if you have a problem with radon gas. If you want to monitor the radon gas level, definitively this is a good price. If I remember well, I paid 180 plus tax an year ago. Good find OP!
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It's 149 again right now but I can't bloody check out on Amazon :facepalm: tried both Chrome and Edge but stuck at credit card selection.
If my sanity has to go, it is my job to keep its absence to myself. :D
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beeknight wrote: It's 149 again right now but I can't bloody check out on Amazon :facepalm: tried both Chrome and Edge but stuck at credit card selection.
Tried a dozen times and it finally worked. Phew!
If my sanity has to go, it is my job to keep its absence to myself. :D
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Nov 22, 2015
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Is the Wave Plus worth it if I have no carbon monoxide detector in my basement?
Jr. Member
Jul 19, 2013
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Thanks OP,
Price beat at Home Depot and got an additional 10% off.
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So for the lower end models, which one would be preferable, the Airthings Corentium Radon Gas Monitor or the Airthings Wave Smart Radon Gas Detector with Free App & Web Dashboard? Can anyone comment on which would be a better purchase?
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mandm1209 wrote: Thanks OP,
Price beat at Home Depot and got an additional 10% off.
Do they beat online retailers?
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maxpayne77 wrote: Do they beat online retailers?
They will meet Amazon but beat BestBuy.
If my sanity has to go, it is my job to keep its absence to myself. :D

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