Expired Hot Deals

[Amazon.ca] G22 Car Jump Starter-1500A Peak Battery Booster $64.99 @Amazon

  • Last Updated:
  • Sep 22nd, 2020 5:47 pm
Deal Addict
Jan 21, 2018
3410 posts
3525 upvotes
Vancouver
ScoFF wrote: I've read on multiple websites to connect the positive to the bad battery, then the positive AND negative to the donor car, then the bar metal part on the bad car (not the negative terminal on the bad car), then turn on the donor car and start the bad car.
You are supposed to connect the negative last, to the chassis and not the battery post. The traditional reason for that was that it can spark if the other battery is really dead and starts drawing a high charging current. Old-style non-sealed batteries can produce hydrogen gas leaking out, and there was some thought that the spark might ignite it. Modern sealed batteries don't leak any significant gas, but if there's going to be a spark, better to have it on a chassis bolt far from anything potentially flammable.

And don't leave the donor car engine running while trying to jump-start the other car. It doesn't contribute enough power to help, and it puts a heavy load on your alternator for a few seconds.
Jr. Member
Jun 17, 2008
107 posts
32 upvotes
Saskatchewan
Jmartin22 wrote: The trekPow TJ2500 is only a few dollars more if you use code TKL69T34 at checkout. That seems like a better buy considering its 2500 amps compared to 1500 amps in the original post.

Trekpow TJ2500
I bought this the other day and have used it a couple times. Works well, battery indicator hasn’t moved and came with more or less full charge. Starts my 6.0 and 8.3 diesels, power lead does get hot though but better than dragging charger out when something won’t turn over
Deal Addict
User avatar
Aug 12, 2006
3134 posts
1481 upvotes
Toronto
cosmok wrote: but better than dragging charger out when something won’t turn over
Exactly :)

Btw, finally a shipping notice today. Was starting to getting worried.
Newbie
Nov 15, 2019
2 posts
I bought the G22 a few months ago because I hadn't driven my car since the pandemic started and the battery died. It worked great out of the box. I used it as a phone charger until I drained the unit. One thing to note is that it does not come with a charger and charges through the usb-c. I used my android phone charger and cable but it did not recharge the device. I contacted support and they sent me a new one (refurbished). I tried charging the second one with the same result. I figured it must be a problem on my end, so I tried an iPhone charger and my phone's usb-c cable but that didn't work either. The only thing that worked was using an iPhone charger and their supplied usb-c cable. Now I have 2 working units sitting at home :) I have to say it is pretty handy when you have a dead battery and don't have another vehicle to give you a jump start. Not sure how long the unit will retain a charge as I've only had it for a couple months. So far I haven't noticed any problems with it.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Aug 12, 2006
3134 posts
1481 upvotes
Toronto
cosmok wrote: I bought this the other day and have used it a couple times. Works well, battery indicator hasn’t moved and came with more or less full charge. Starts my 6.0 and 8.3 diesels, power lead does get hot though but better than dragging charger out when something won’t turn over
So my TrekPow TJ2500 shows 4 steady led lights meaning full charge, when I press the button. However when I hook up the charger, as Amazon listing says to, after receiving, the fourth light blinks. There doesn't seem to be anything in the manual. Shall I expect expect four solid led lights to signify it's fully charged? Thoughts?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2015
2977 posts
2684 upvotes
Toronto, ON
beachlover wrote: So my TrekPow TJ2500 shows 4 steady led lights meaning full charge, when I press the button. However when I hook up the charger, as Amazon listing says to, after receiving, the fourth light blinks. There doesn't seem to be anything in the manual. Shall I expect expect four solid led lights to signify it's fully charged? Thoughts?
Same. Plugged it in for an hour, and eventually 4th led stopped flashing. All 4 steady now. Think it just means it wasn't at 100% charge, and now it is.
Deal Fanatic
Mar 5, 2007
5550 posts
5190 upvotes
melovesme wrote: Do these hold their charge levels if left in the car during the winter temperatures? Or do they need to be stored indoors
They're fine in the car. It's a good idea to warm them up a bit (put it in your jacket for 15 minutes maybe) since Lithium Ion batteries loose alot of punch in colder temps.
Deal Fanatic
Mar 5, 2007
5550 posts
5190 upvotes
ScoFF wrote: I don't know how these things even work with the amount of computers, sensors and electronics in cars these days. You've adding a random voltage and amperage in parallel with your dead or half dead battery. You'd think it would just (like a previous poster said) trip a sensor not letting it start for overload/underload protection.
Car electronics are designed for 'dirty' power. Their input filtering is quite impressive and robust.
Deal Fanatic
Mar 5, 2007
5550 posts
5190 upvotes
roosterOON wrote: Few months ago, I jump started another car. Weeks later, my car started complaining battery error. The battery had to be replaced. My mechanic said never do jump start and warn me the alternator may go as well. Sure enough, the alternator had to be replaced. He suggested me use these jump starters instead.
Your mechanic is spreading bunk. Sorry.
Deal Fanatic
Mar 5, 2007
5550 posts
5190 upvotes
ScoFF wrote: I also killed my car's alternator but jump starting a car. I don't think it's coincidence, the good car was running while jumpstarted.
I'll never jump start someone's car again, I'll just hand them the device.
Chances are your alternator was on it's way out, which is why you had a flat battery.

Jumping the car just prolonged the situation a little.
Deal Fanatic
Mar 5, 2007
5550 posts
5190 upvotes
kooblu wrote: Very important not to connect the negative onto the good car's negative battery but instead to any bare metal/ground. Doing that will damage battery, electronics, etc.
Groan.... man, the amount of false information out there regarding jump starting a car is frustrating.

There are TWO issues at hand here:

1) A dead battery can result in a good amount of hydrogen building up in the battery. You DON'T want a spark ANYWHERE near a dead battery. So generally, you connect positive leads to the batteries (flat first is common, but not super required), ground on the good battery terminal, and ground on the dead cars engine. By doing that you ensure that any 'spark' is far away from the dead battery

2) The reason to connect the negative to the TERMINAL of the good battery, and the ENGINE of the flat car, is where current is coming from, and where it's going. We're talking hundreds of amps flowing, ANYTHING between source and load will result in a voltage drop and wasted power. So, on the boosting car you connect right to the negative terminal of the battery, since that's where the current is coming from. On the flat car you connect to the engine block since the starter motor is bolted directly to the engine and that ensures the lowest impedance path for the current to flow.
Member
Jan 29, 2003
241 posts
23 upvotes
repatch wrote: Groan.... man, the amount of false information out there regarding jump starting a car is frustrating.

There are TWO issues at hand here:

1) A dead battery can result in a good amount of hydrogen building up in the battery. You DON'T want a spark ANYWHERE near a dead battery. So generally, you connect positive leads to the batteries (flat first is common, but not super required), ground on the good battery terminal, and ground on the dead cars engine. By doing that you ensure that any 'spark' is far away from the dead battery

2) The reason to connect the negative to the TERMINAL of the good battery, and the ENGINE of the flat car, is where current is coming from, and where it's going. We're talking hundreds of amps flowing, ANYTHING between source and load will result in a voltage drop and wasted power. So, on the boosting car you connect right to the negative terminal of the battery, since that's where the current is coming from. On the flat car you connect to the engine block since the starter motor is bolted directly to the engine and that ensures the lowest impedance path for the current to flow.
If you look at couple posts after my initial post, I corrected that. Good info tho. Sparks, gas leakage, zapping electronics or not, the correct way is the safest way...or use one of these battery boosters.

I have one of these lithium boosters. Helped me a few times but not at times when battery was totally drained/dead, which defeats purpose. I say go with one that has an override function that will work even on totally drained batteries. This is the only one I saw on amazon that mentions it has this function...and happens to be on sale now. I would dig this one but holding back since my current one still works fine. I cant say of reliability for this one but just a recommendation due to the override function. Others may have or may even boost totally drained batteries but no mention of it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-TACKLIFE- ... BV2&sr=8-3

Top