Leviton 20A GFCI receptacles - 3 pack - $46.80 - $15.60 each

I picked up the Leviton 15A GFCI 3 pack a couple of years ago from Amazon to replace the old GFCI outlets in the bathrooms. The old ones were Electek GFCI with the red and black reset and test buttons. One of them had the active indicator flickering. I replaced them with the Leviton and so far it's worked fine and I personally think look much better.

Too bad 15A are not on sale.. thx anyways OP!

Not sure on price, but looks good! Just a warning that these are 20amp receptacles, therefore should be wired accordingly. I.E. 12awg wire and a 20amp breaker.

Edit; also not tamper resistant. These are fairly limited use in Ontario. Not to say you can't /shouldn't use them as a home gamer, but by electrical code you will be limited on where you can use them.

DMPimm wrote: ↑ Not sure on price, but looks good! Just a warning that these are 20amp receptacles, therefore should be wired accordingly. I.E. 12awg wire and a 20amp breaker.

Edit; also not tamper resistant. These are fairly limited use in Ontario. Not to say you can't /shouldn't use them as a home gamer, but by electrical code you will be limited on where you can use them.

In the details or days tamper resistant. "conntains 3 non tamper-resistant GFCI's

xFRUGALITYx wrote: ↑ In the details or days tamper resistant. "conntains 3 non tamper-resistant GFCI's

Yes, most outlets need to be tamper resistant according to code. New houses will likely only have one or two non tamper-resistant, like in the ones from OP, in the whole house.

hot_potato wrote: ↑ Too bad 15A are not on sale.. thx anyways OP!

I picked these up in 2020 for $39.99 from Amazon, right now it's slightly more expensive at $44.44, but still a really good deal. These are 15 Amp and slim for easier installation.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B019YJPKWU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

xFRUGALITYx wrote: ↑ In the details or days tamper resistant. "conntains 3 non tamper-resistant GFCI's

"Non-tamper resistant" meaning they are not tamper-resistant

You can also tell from the photos, you don't see the "TR" on the face.

SquadG wrote: ↑ You can use 20A receptacle to replace your 15A. The circuit breaker and wire are made for 15A so it's all good. The 15A receptacle is spec'd at 20A passthrough anyway.

I think you got it the opposite way.
You can install a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit, but not a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit.

SquadG wrote: ↑ Oh I know it's not legal but it can be done and it's not dangerous at all since the breaker will turn off.

Sorry, but this is dangerous to suggest as the 20A outlet could easily lead users to think that it is OK to run a 20A device on the circuit. Not only would it lead to frequent breaker resets, but you also run the risk that before the breaker cuts power, some part of the circuit overheats.

SquadG wrote: ↑ You can use 20A receptacle to replace your 15A. The circuit breaker and wire are made for 15A so it's all good. The 15A receptacle is spec'd at 20A passthrough anyway.

Don't do this, it's stupid. A 5 20P is for a 20amp circuit, wire and breaker. Allowing someone to plug a 20amp load into a 15amp circuit means you're relying on the breaker to prevent a fire.

Kasakato wrote: ↑ Don't do this, it's stupid. A 5 20P is for a 20amp circuit, wire and breaker. Allowing someone to plug a 20amp load into a 15amp circuit means you're relying on the breaker to prevent a fire.

Have heard of a few horror stories of breakers failing and being able to weld with the circuit. My own experience; my journeyman at the time blew a hole in his cutters on a live circuit, then said it had to be dead now and took mine and blew a hole in mine...

DMPimm wrote: ↑ Have heard of a few horror stories of breakers failing and being able to weld with the circuit. My own experience; my journeyman at the time blew a hole in his cutters on a live circuit, then said it had to be dead now and took mine and blew a hole in mine...

FPE/Pacific, Challenge or Zinsco by chance?

What is an example of a 20-amp device?

I feel like all the breakers for regular and GFCI plugs on my panel are 15A.

kenchau wrote: ↑ What is an example of a 20-amp device?

I feel like all the breakers for regular and GFCI plugs on my panel are 15A.

Refrigerator, toasters, blenders, and microwave just to name a few.
You can also plug any 15amp devices in a 20amp receptacle.


HTH.

althegreat wrote: ↑ Refrigerator, toasters, blenders, and microwave just to name a few.
You can also plug any 15amp devices in a 20amp receptacle.


HTH.

Refrigerators always have a dedicated spot and outlet, so I'm not even counting that.

So you're saying common household countertop small appliances? No way majority of people are thinking these are 20amps and my outlets are 15amps, it's going to be a problem. Why do we not experience more issues?

Thank you...ordered 2 sets.

Common use for these are kitchen counter plugs around a sink. They are 20a gfci but usaully only 2 per house.

You may not replace a 15a gfci plug with one of these. It is an extra horizontal slot that invites someone to plug in a higher draw appliance.

DMPimm wrote: ↑ Have heard of a few horror stories of breakers failing and being able to weld with the circuit. My own experience; my journeyman at the time blew a hole in his cutters on a live circuit, then said it had to be dead now and took mine and blew a hole in mine...

It's not necessarily a failing breaker that can cause this scenario either, a breaker needs to sustain a certain load for an X amount of time (as per designed trip curve specifications) before its' trip mechanism opens the circuit. A breaker is really designed for a sustained overload condition, if the circuit is overloaded intermittently (arcing) it will not have enough time to heat up internally to trip.

An AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter) is a device specifically designed for such high energy intermittent circuit faults, which are arguably more dangerous to have (start a fire) rather than a branch circuit overload.

I've been searching for 20A GFCI with USB-C charging built in for a long time, still doesn't seem to exist. Want to get rid of the ugly charging crap all over the kitchen island... anybody know something I don't?