Meguiar's Ultimate Compound $9.97

Same price for polish

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F653O4S/

Upvote for Project Farm!

Product is solid too…

same price now at walmart

th3xeroeagle wrote: ↑ Same price for polish

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F653O4S/

Perfect for a 2 step buffing with a DA polisher.

Enforcer22 wrote: ↑ I'm a total noob when it comes to automotive body work, but did successfully repair some paint chips on my hood with this duplicolor 3 in 1 stick

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/dupl ... 1106p.html

However, when trying to repair rust around my door handle it turned out pretty terrible as seen in the below pictures. I don't care that much, but if I can fix it cheap and easy I'll do it

20210320_190502.jpg

20210605_140715.jpg

Would this product help with this, or is there something else I can use?

Oh good sir you have bit off quite the project. You need a lot more than polish and a little elbow grease.

You need wet sand paper, spray paint to match the car, clear coat etc etc to make that look even close to “decent”

I would probably leave it as is as if you didn’t sand away the rust your efforts are futile anyhow. Nice effort tho! Doesn’t look as bad as I expected it would, should be pleased!

Any deals on car wash soap / what goes well with this two products?

aprilgermany wrote: ↑ Any deals on car wash soap / what goes well with this two products?

Most important step before compounding is to use an iron remover (chemical decon) and than clay bar (mechanical decon). You don't want tiny participles scratching your paint while you try to buff. Need as clean a surface as possible. Any car wash soap should be fine with a two bucket method.

jbone14 wrote: ↑
Oh good sir you have bit off quite the project. You need a lot more than polish and a little elbow grease.

You need wet sand paper, spray paint to match the car, clear coat etc etc to make that look even close to “decent”

I would probably leave it as is as if you didn’t sand away the rust your efforts are futile anyhow. Nice effort tho! Doesn’t look as bad as I expected it would, should be pleased!

Haha, agreed. You definitely need to level it out with bondo, sand it and the surrounding down, primer, paint (and level with wet sand after every coat), clear coat (also wet sand every coat to prevent orange peel) and on the last coat, do a compound / polish pass. Finally, add some protective sealant over it.

zobi123 wrote: ↑ Most important step before compounding is to use an iron remover (chemical decon) and than clay bar (mechanical decon). You don't want tiny participles scratching your paint while you try to buff. Need as clean a surface as possible. Any car wash soap should be fine with a two bucket method.

Any recommendations on chemical decon and mechanical decon ?

And what are the steps for entire carwash ?
Carwash, chemical decon, mechanical decon, compound, polish ? Is that all ? Do I need any other products or different steps ? Sorry I'm new to this TIA

aprilgermany wrote: ↑ Any recommendations on chemical decon and mechanical decon ?

And what are the steps for entire carwash ?
Carwash, chemical decon, mechanical decon, compound, polish ? Is that all ? Do I need any other products or different steps ? Sorry I'm new to this TIA

Can really use any brand name for the products, mother's, meguiars etc.
If you have a pressure washer that would make things easier as well. A microfiber mit and edgeless towels are a must.
Definitely check out some YouTube videos.

1. Wash
2. Iron Remover
3. Clay bar
4. DA Polish compound
5. IPA Wipe
6. TW Hybrid Ceramic Spray Coating is a good begginers product for protection and shine.

jbone14 wrote: ↑ Oh good sir you have bit off quite the project. You need a lot more than polish and a little elbow grease.

You need wet sand paper, spray paint to match the car, clear coat etc etc to make that look even close to “decent”

I would probably leave it as is as if you didn’t sand away the rust your efforts are futile anyhow. Nice effort tho! Doesn’t look as bad as I expected it would, should be pleased!

aprilgermany wrote: ↑ Any recommendations on chemical decon and mechanical decon ?

And what are the steps for entire carwash ?
Carwash, chemical decon, mechanical decon, compound, polish ? Is that all ? Do I need any other products or different steps ? Sorry I'm new to this TIA

Chemical decontamination is only if your car is in really bad shape. Generally, your first pass of compounding will get rid of all chemical contamination.

My biggest recommendation for any starters is to get a good set of quality microfibers that you use solely for car paints. You have to make sure to wash these by themselves and do not put any fabric softeners or sheets as these gunk up between the fibers.

Noob question. Should the compound be complimented by polishing (since both are discounted?). One Amazon review states that it works best with the polisher.

Is it a good idea to polish a car even if not using a compound in general?

P.S. I also have a turtle wax ceramic spray wax which I use on my car windshield to improve wipers performance. Does that replace the polish? Or are they different stuff?

Thanks!

Edit: As mentioned above, the compound & polish are both available through Walmart Grocery orders. You can use the 10 or 20 off codes to bring the price further down.

aouniat wrote: ↑ Noob question. Should the compound be complimented by polishing (since both are discounted?). One Amazon review states that it works best with the polisher.

Is it a good idea to polish a car even if not using a compound in general?

P.S. I also have a turtle wax ceramic spray which I use on my car windshield to improve wipers performance. Does that replace the polish? Or are they different stuff?

Thanks!

Edit: As mentioned above, the compound & polish are both available through Walmart Grocery orders. You can use the 10 or 20 off codes to bring the price further down.

Compound is for deeper scratches and swirls, polish is light swirls and hazing.
Yes a Polish without a compound every couple years is a good idea. It doesn't cut much of the clear coat, it's more of a cleaner so that waxes and sealants can stick better.
I wouldn't use TW ceramic on windshields, do you notice how when you use your wipers in the rain it leaves a filmy residue that disappears after a few seconds? Thats because it wasn't designed for the windshield. Better to use a coating specifically designed for windshields, even a full ceramic coating will do, it's safer to avoid the smearing loss of visibility.

aouniat wrote: ↑ Noob question. Should the compound be complimented by polishing (since both are discounted?). One Amazon review states that it works best with the polisher.

Is it a good idea to polish a car even if not using a compound in general?

P.S. I also have a turtle wax ceramic spray wax which I use on my car windshield to improve wipers performance. Does that replace the polish? Or are they different stuff?

Thanks!

Edit: As mentioned above, the compound & polish are both available through Walmart Grocery orders. You can use the 10 or 20 off codes to bring the price further down.

Ideally you would do both steps (use a compound and polish....compound cleans and fills in/remove light scratches and polish is a finishing coat). And you can do TW spray after than regularly to maintain the slick surface.

But I'm more lazy and I can't be bothered with a 3 step deal like this.

I might use this compound if I had areas that need extra attention (once in the spring). And I then finish with an all in one product like https://www.turtlewax.com/products/hybr ... x-14-fl-oz This provides a polish and then gives you that long lasting Turtle Wax ceramic protection. And then I use the TW Spray every month or two to keep it slick through the rest of the year.

zobi123 wrote: ↑ Compound is for deeper scratches and swirls, polish is light swirls and hazing.
Yes a Polish without a compound every couple years is a good idea. It doesn't cut much of the clear coat, it's more of a cleaner so that waxes and sealants can stick better.
I wouldn't use TW ceramic on windshields, do you notice how when you use your wipers in the rain it leaves a filmy residue that disappears after a few seconds? Thats because it wasn't designed for the windshield. Better to use a coating specifically designed for windshields, even a full ceramic coating will do, it's safer to avoid the smearing loss of visibility.

Thanks! I'll order both then.

As for the TW, it's supposedly safe on glass based on the product description (https://www.turtlewax.com/products/hybr ... g-16-fl-oz)

I read few posts here saying that they use it on the windshield, and based on that I bought it. It works well. Water is easily repelled, which helps the wipers a lot. Didn't notice any issues to be honest.

The Ultimate Compound works decently for me, applied on the hood with a clear coat horizontal scratch accross visible on certain angles, less visible after a few applications.
Returns a bit after each wash, so reapplied some when I see it again.

Was thinking about buying Griot Polisher eventually so I can work on a small scratch caused by another car hitting the door panel while trying to park, and hopefully make the hood scratch more like a "permanent" fix (or at least a much better application of the compound than my own 2 hands and the applicator pad)
Is the polisher even recommended for a noob in car care (learned past 2 years on washing car, bucket method, pressure wash, iron remover, a bit of clay bar, TW hybrid ceramic)?

I use this stuff to remove the yellow oxidation from my headlights.
You don't need a lot of compound and it cuts and cleans very fast compared to other methods out there.

Yragorn wrote: ↑ Was thinking about buying Griot Polisher eventually so I can work on a small scratch caused by another car hitting the door panel while trying to park, and hopefully make the hood scratch more like a "permanent" fix (or at least a much better application of the compound than my own 2 hands and the applicator pad)
Is the polisher even recommended for a noob in car care (learned past 2 years on washing car, bucket method, pressure wash, iron remover, a bit of clay bar, TW hybrid ceramic)?

A dual action polisher can't do anything you can't already do by hand, but it does it faster and more consistently. For a spot area detailing, it's not a necessity at all. If you intend to apply waxes or using defect removal products like this, over a large surface, then it makes total sense to use a machine. A machine can do the job in a fraction of the time.

If you have multiple cars or intend to do multistep car detailing with liquid/cream waxes and products, then it's totally worth it just to cut down on effort and time.

the machine might give you a slightly better result but it's not a cure, depending on the scratch, it will just cover it up a little better but it's still really there. you may need to resort to additional methods to truly make the scratch repair more permanent