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[Amazon.ca] Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319

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Nov 11, 2003
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Drasco wrote: I am starting to wonder if I should cancel v2 order and just get the pro version and then replace with picture frame glass bed and the SKR board with BL touch upgrades.

Have you tried printing PLA on the picture frame glass for any noticeable difference?
Just switched back to PLA to try out the picture frame, I have the bed set to 60 degrees and it works good. I was temporarily using PETG to print some upgrades, the petfang hot end cooler and belt tensioners.

FYI the MG CHEMICALS natural PETG is amazing. Very strong and it prints at a lower temp than other PETG manufacturers. I was printing the PETG at 220 degrees and it was perfect. Also be careful, the ender 3x I got seems to be a little different than the older ones. The petsfang duct I printed had some minor differences. It seems my blower fan is a bit of a different shape ? And also the stock hot end wires are very stiff and Interfere a little.
Last edited by dsorgiovanni on Aug 23rd, 2020 1:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Xephy wrote: I picked up a few rolls from a local company. Waterbird to try out since another member just mentioned they just picked up a few rolls to try as well.

Mind you that was on a whim and probably not the best choice. But they were pretty cheap and freeship over $75 in the GTA. Came to $92 for 4 rolls of PLA+. They came with extra Ziploc branded bags for storage/protection from humidity as well as a hand written " thank you " on a post-it. Hopefully it prints well. I don't even have my printer yet. So I don't know how the Waterbird filament will print.

I've been looking at digitalmakers for some eSun PETG. I hear eSun has some good filament. pricing at digitalmakers is cheaper than amazon and have a lot of variety. Pick up in North York if you're in the GTA.

I plan to use the PETG to print the Ender 3 upgrades at the recommendation of another member once everything is running smoothly.
They also have a flat $10 rate for any order outside of "the center of the Canadian universe", which is helpful, although it's also hard to beat any "free shipping over $35" on amazon if you can find decently priced filament. I've had hit and miss luck with waterbird filaments. The last transparent roll I had was amazing, but the grey I got in the same shipment (different box) was soft, seemed to print off OK though.....
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My printer won't get here until probably late September so I pre-ordered PLA from Botfeeder, which is only $15/roll. Seems decent according to a few FB reviews. They even sent me an e-mail asking me if I wanted to cancel/refund because there was a 2-3 week Covid delay on stock. I kept the order because I don't need it now. Other place I found with affordable PLA is filaments.ca, their Econofil seems well reviewed and is $22.95. Goes on sale for $19.95 once in a while.

Filament sold on Amazon seems expensive to me and as a 3D printing newb who expects to waste quite a bit of that stuff until I get the hang of it, I see no point in paying $30/roll for PLA.
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sswilson wrote: They also have a flat $10 rate for any order outside of "the center of the Canadian universe", which is helpful, although it's also hard to beat any "free shipping over $35" on amazon if you can find decently priced filament. I've had hit and miss luck with waterbird filaments. The last transparent roll I had was amazing, but the grey I got in the same shipment (different box) was soft, seemed to print off OK though.....
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Damn. The grey I got was even lighter than that photo. :'( Mine all came in a brown cardboard box.

Oh well. If they aren't too good I can it as breakable toys for the butt gremlins.

I've had this filament in my Amazon cart for the last few days. Looks pretty cool for a bust or something. Have you had any experience with this brand or this type of PLA before?

Kehuashina 3D Printer Silk Rainbow Multicolor PLA Filamentt 1.75mm.
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dsorgiovanni wrote: E103799A-CAE8-4EE1-BD3E-093FA937C945.jpeg79299284-D0BE-4FEB-BC73-A2EB0E5CA6F8.jpeg73A126DF-17C0-4CAE-AB70-88C94F089DDC.jpeg

Just switched back to PLA to try out the picture frame, I have the bed set to 60 degrees and it works good. I was temporarily using PETG to print some upgrades, the petfang hot end cooler and belt tensioners.

FYI the MG CHEMICALS natural PETG is amazing. Very strong and it prints at a lower temp than other PETG manufacturers. I was printing the PETG at 220 degrees and it was perfect. Also be careful, the ender 3x I got seems to be a little different than the older ones. The petsfang duct I printed had some minor differences. It seems my blower fan is a bit of a different shape ? And also the stock hot end wires are very stiff and Interfere a little.
Thank you for the follow up. I ended up grabbing the pei coated plate but it's always good to have the glass plate as a back up.

If you don't mind me asking, which upgrade did you find most useful and where do you source your filaments? I am looking into using petg primarily due to its durability.
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Xephy wrote: Damn. The grey I got was even lighter than that photo. :'( Mine all came in a brown cardboard box.

Oh well. If they aren't too good I can it as breakable toys for the butt gremlins.

I've had this filament in my Amazon cart for the last few days. Looks pretty cool for a bust or something. Have you had any experience with this brand or this type of PLA before?

Kehuashina 3D Printer Silk Rainbow Multicolor PLA Filamentt 1.75mm.
Well, I wouldn't worry about it, even the "soft" filament I got seemed to print off ok. As far as I can tell, there's no real standard for PLA other than basic ingredients, width (1.75), and a basic range of melting temps. Most PLA will work fine, just keep it in mind (as a new printer) that it's possible to get a roll of filament that doesn't produce the best results and be willing to try a different roll before deciding that you're doing something wrong.

So far I've had good luck with overture (my first order), a roll of white creality branded filament, and like I said... both the transparent and lime green waterbird produced decent results. The best results so far however were from the Overture.
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I ordered the $204 ($209-$5 ) printer from creality, in case it went out of stock like before, now trying to figure out what else is recommended.


Saw something about upgrading springs and hose, does this cover it?

https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Extruder ... B08BR5GS4R

Or do you need the other bits, like

https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Printer- ... B089ZZWTRW

Or something completely different? Never 3D printed ever, but am excited to learn.
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GollyMolly wrote: I ordered the $204 ($209-$5 ) printer from creality, in case it went out of stock like before, now trying to figure out what else is recommended.


Saw something about upgrading springs and hose, does this cover it?

https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Extruder ... B08BR5GS4R

Or do you need the other bits, like

https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-Printer- ... B089ZZWTRW

Or something completely different? Never 3D printed ever, but am excited to learn.
The first one will be fine. The only upgrade that's really a "should consider immediately" is the bed levelling springs, as the ones Creality ships with their units aren't very stiff and thus require levelling after almost every print.

Other than that, welcome to the rabbit hole..... :)
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Get the springs, great QoL upgrade and cheap. Get an Arduino and flash a new firmware (Marlin for me). Adds manual mesh bed leveling. I went from tweaking leveling each print, to last touching the leveling adjustment knobs a year and probably 200 prints ago. It seems like a lot of work to do the firmware. I consider it critical. Also adds runaway thermal protection. Avoids a potential fire if you end up with a "blob of dismay".

Filament has a huge impact on print ease. I like amz3d and hatchbox. Remember that filament is hydroscopic. I made a dry box for storage.
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Really want to start 3d printing little toys! Should I go for the V1 or V2?
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apneab wrote: Get the springs, great QoL upgrade and cheap. Get an Arduino and flash a new firmware (Marlin for me).....

Filament has a huge impact on print ease. I like amz3d and hatchbox. Remember that filament is hydroscopic. I made a dry box for storage.
Are there places you buy this ready to go, or have done( Arduino/firmware part) or is it easy to learn, as that is barely English to me....

I will have to research the filaments too, as I don’t even know differences between types, but one step at a time.
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Drasco, I did a ton of research before I purchased and before I build. But I’ll try to summarize it a bit for you !

I also wouldn’t worry about purchasing more expensive filament ($30ish range per kg) the filament actually lasts quite a long time and it may cause you less issues. I have had my printer running day and night, and it took me just over a week to finish a spool of PLA.

Printed upgrades And free upgrades
- I did the 2 cable chains to prevent the wires from getting tangled.
- Fan guard to prevent filament from falling in. I believe this is not needed on the pro version.
- top filament arm/guide
- lower filament guide with a wheel
- printed the bed handle (actually very useful)
- I noticed that when the spool of filament unwinds it is somewhat choppy. So I have been using white lithium Between the spool and the black plastic arm that the spool sits on. Definitely helped the choppiness.
- Recently I have purchased PETG for more strength and have started making a few of the more critical area upgrades. Using PETG I printed the x and y axis belt tensioners (have not installed yet, waiting for belt to get loose before I mess with it) and I have printed and installed the PETSFANG duct using the stock fans. I have tested the dust using a small strip of paper to see where the air is now blowing and it is nicely centred around the nozzle.
- Also printed a bunch of fun cosmetic things, control knob, lcd ribbon covers, Wyze camera stand, tool holder, etc

Purchase upgrades
- I bought a Creality upgrade kit from amazon. It included new stiffer bed springs, all metal extruder, and Capricorn XS Bowden tubing. Out of all of this I have only installed the bed springs while I was installing the printed bed handle.
- The stock Bowden tube will be replaced when it has issues, but so far it has been pretty good.
- The stock plastic extruder also seems to work fine and have no issues. Apparently the filament would run on the plastic extruder and slowly wear its way through the plastic. However I noticed on my ender 3x there is now a brass rivet on the entry point. So I believe that problem may be fixed.
- Cheap $1.50 glass from dollar store :) purchase this because my ender glass plate was getting scratched from trying to scrape prints off the bed
- I have also purchase a bunch of spare parts (belts, t-nuts, wheels, springs, silicon sock, etc) from AliExpress for any future repairs as it takes months to arrive but is very cheap.

As for building the ender
- I have found that the aluminum extruder structure was not cut 100 percent square. When the vertical aluminum structure was installed on the base and tighter it was not square (both left and right were cut on angles, checked with 2 squares to confirm). It is just a tiny bit off, but when installed it was approximately 2-3mm out from the bottom. One video I watched mentioned to clamp it square and then tighten, that does not work. I ended up making a very thin shin 0.24mm thick and adding it to one side and then tightening. The shin was basically a folded piece of ALCAN strong aluminum foil. It was folded 4 or 5 times and made to be 40mm x 5mm and placed under the correct side of the vertical aluminum extrusions.
- I also noticed early on that my x-axis belt was rubbing on the aluminum x-axis and was not sitting in the center of the metal bearing. I also added a metal shin to correct this.
- If you add the upgrade yellow levelling springs and use a thick bed such as the official ender 3 glass bed, you might have to raise your z-axis limit switch slightly. I found that the springs were compressed too much with the switch in the stock position.
- When doing your first bed levelling make sure to have paper between the nozzle and bed ! I scratched my glass bed while moving the nozzle the first time. Also don’t move the motors too fast and make sure you disable the step motors before moving. Check all 4 corners and then keep going around 2 or 3 more times and constantly adjusting them. When you move one the opposite will move slightly as well. After your done, beat the bed and check again. Aluminum may expand with heat, better to be safe than sorry !
- I never bothered to print the z-axis spacer, it seems that it may not be needed. After everything was installed I checked the measurements of the z-axis screw rod on the bottom and top. Both measurements were the exact same. Also it comes pre-greased is a black tube.
- There should also be a “change filament” option on the menu that shows up sometimes. It heats the hot end, runs the extruder in reverse, reheats the hot end and runs the extruder forward. There is also an option to extrude more of needed.
- I did not bother to try to update the firmware as mine seems to have newer firmware installed already ?
- As for the silent board upgrade (for ender 3) wait until yours arrives, mine is fairly quiet. Same thing with the stepper motors, very quite. Also I don’t think you can easily install the step motor dampeners on the new ones. Not really needed anyway. The loudest part on mine it the stock fans.

If you take your time assembling it and testing it out you will get amazing prints. When purchasing filament of different kinds of different brand keep in mind they may/will need different nozzle and bed temperatures. Some PETG requires you to print quite hot, do some research on how hot your PTFE Bowden tube can go before releasing toxic fumes. MG chemicals PETG (natural) temperature is 210c to 240c. Personally I found 220c to be perfect and 80c on the glass picture frame bed.

Good luck !
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@dsorgiovanni thank you so much for the detailed write up!! You clearly have tried a lot of different mods and considering I am planning to use PETG like you, I am going to closely follow your notes.

Can't thank you enough! Smiling Face With Smiling Eyes
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Drasco wrote: @dsorgiovanni thank you so much for the detailed write up!! You clearly have tried a lot of different mods and considering I am planning to use PETG like you, I am going to closely follow your notes.

Can't thank you enough! Smiling Face With Smiling Eyes
No problem ! I have been off work so I did a ton of research before and after ordering the printer. They are tons of fun and wish I would bought one years ago ! If you have any questions feel free to message me.
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dsorgiovanni wrote: No problem ! I have been off work so I did a ton of research before and after ordering the printer. They are tons of fun and wish I would bought one years ago ! If you have any questions feel free to message me.
I also really appreciate the post and look forward to building my Pro in the coming days. If you have the opportunity to post the links to the files you used for printing upgrades I'd love to see them.

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