Ah! Thanks so much. Ok about to about an SKR mini 2.0 and figured maybe I’ll also get a BLTouch... cause I know myself and I’m lazy enough to not calibrate the tray often enough.. as I understand it- with the SKR I just need this one https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/g ... uch-sensor and not the full kit, correct?
Amazon.ca
Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319
- SCORE
- Reason
Score breakdown ×
- Upvote
-
0%
- Not a good price
-
0%
- Bad product/service
-
0%
- Poor merchant reputation
-
0%
- Unable to get the deal
-
0%
- Other (downvote)
-
0%
- boojew
- Sr. Member
- Dec 22, 2001
- 942 posts
- 199 upvotes
- arisk
- Deal Addict
- Nov 12, 2006
- 3109 posts
- 2309 upvotes
- London
I get the smoothers in that case, as they are an electronic method.
Dampers are simply a mechanical connection, so I don't see what additional issue they would create with silent drivers.
I get that there may be minimal (if any) benefit if silent drivers are used and there probably is no reason at all to use them in that case.
Do you have further information on what actual trouble they would cause?
If they don't cause trouble with "non-silent" drivers, I don't see how they would cause trouble when the motor is driven by a cleaner signal.
- sswilson
- Deal Addict
- Sep 19, 2017
- 1971 posts
- 2109 upvotes
- Moncton
You're also going to need an extended cable and a mount (if you haven't already printed off something like the petsfang that has a mount incorporated). When I was looking, there wasn't a big price difference between the full creality kit and sourcing those extra parts separately. The only downside to the creality kit used in conjunction with the SKR is that you have to switch a couple of the wires on the cable for it to work on the SKR, but it does have the benefit of allowing relatively easy upgrading of the stock creality board to allow the BLTouch to be used with it while you wait on an SKR.boojew wrote: ↑ Ah! Thanks so much. Ok about to about an SKR mini 2.0 and figured maybe I’ll also get a BLTouch... cause I know myself and I’m lazy enough to not calibrate the tray often enough.. as I understand it- with the SKR I just need this one https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/g ... uch-sensor and not the full kit, correct?
Koodo 33GB UL T&T @ $48 (waiting on my tab to switch to a better/cheaper plan)
- Lumute
- Sr. Member
- Jan 17, 2006
- 959 posts
- 302 upvotes
- Mississauga
Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.arisk wrote: ↑ I get the smoothers in that case, as they are an electronic method.
Dampers are simply a mechanical connection, so I don't see what additional issue they would create with silent drivers.
I get that there may be minimal (if any) bbenefit if silent drivers are used and there probably is no reason at all to use them in that case.
Do you have further information on what actual trouble they would cause?
If they don't cause trouble with "non-silent" drivers, I don't see how they would cause trouble when the motor is driven by a cleaner signal.
Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.
So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
- Sparky
- Jr. Member
- Oct 28, 2003
- 122 posts
- 27 upvotes
Another option for people is the Sovol SV01 printer. It is available on amazon.ca right now for 399.00 less $ 30.00 coupon for 369.00 . Bought 1 last week got delivered yesterday. Pretty easy assembly, i took longer to make sure the bed was level. Printed a small part and it looks really good.
It has some upgrades from the Ender 3 being a larger build volume, dual z axis and stepper motors and a direct drive extruder. So for the price difference it seems to be pretty good value.
It is sold by Sovol and fulfilled by Amazon so should be no with returns if need be.
It has some upgrades from the Ender 3 being a larger build volume, dual z axis and stepper motors and a direct drive extruder. So for the price difference it seems to be pretty good value.
It is sold by Sovol and fulfilled by Amazon so should be no with returns if need be.
- arisk
- Deal Addict
- Nov 12, 2006
- 3109 posts
- 2309 upvotes
- London
I agree if they aren't needed, then there is no reason to bother using them.Lumute wrote: ↑ Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.
Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.
So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
My initial comment was in response to people who stated theirs was too noisy, and except for buying a quiet board, or adding feet, no other option had been presented.
For the original "non quiet" boards, there is a big improvement in noise, so it is a good option with those. (and possibly others, except for the most recent "quiet" versions)
I've seen no references to quality issues as a result of using dampers.
The heat issue is due to the stepper no longer being in contact with the aluminum frame, which acts as a heatsink, and not stress.
Some people add heatsinks to the motors.
I have not, and heat seems reasonable.
I've seen no references to motor tilt.
I could see it possibly happening if the belt tension was too high, but that is a tensioning issue, and not a damper issue.
If the belts are tight enough to tilt the motor, the operator has other issues.
Maybe over-tightening has become a problem with added tensioners, as I stated in another post.
I haven't touched my belt tension since original assembly more than 2 years ago.
- iddqd85
- Deal Addict
- Jul 22, 2014
- 2261 posts
- 764 upvotes
- Ottawa, ON
Yeah, maybe not 3, it was working out to be about 5 bucks more from amazon if you concider 3dprinting tax and $9 shipping rate. Got it installed, didn't bother with any firmware updates. Works excellent out off the box and now the noise level is that of my old laptop.Pehnull wrote: ↑ $68.49 Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/BIGTREETECH-Upgra ... 661&sr=8-2
$47.66 ($52.95-10% code) 3DPrintingCanada - https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/s ... b94f&_ss=r
$20.83 savings. I spent a few dollars on 2 filament rolls to get up to $99 free shipping level and expected delivery for my 3DPrintingCanada order is Monday
- canadianclub
- Sr. Member
- Sep 4, 2015
- 525 posts
- 476 upvotes
Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.
It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.
It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.
0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design
Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.
Any ideas?
It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.
It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.
0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design
Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.
Any ideas?
Making my money go further with RFD since 2017
$25/25GB PhoneBox
$25/20GB Fido Plan
$30/10GB PhoneBox plan
$25/25GB PhoneBox
- G77
- Deal Addict
- Dec 30, 2008
- 4059 posts
- 812 upvotes
- Windsor
I would say a business card is too thick - use paper to level instead and try that.canadianclub wrote: ↑ Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.
It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.
It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.
0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design
Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.
Any ideas?
Also try playing with your temps, a warmer bed (70) will help it stick but also may cause some elephants foot (bottom layers squashing).
- Skadefryd
- Deal Addict
- Aug 10, 2011
- 2351 posts
- 1122 upvotes
- Edmonton
In terms of bed leveling I would stick with a piece of paper to begin with - I also found some simple squares to be very useful for making sure each side was completely even:canadianclub wrote: ↑ Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.
It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.
It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.
0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design
Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.
Any ideas?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086
Helped to fine-tune the corners and get a nice, even layer.
- OneAndTrueHeir
- Deal Addict
- Jan 31, 2018
- 1515 posts
- 2810 upvotes
- Winnipeg
Wait, I don't fully understand. Is it lifting from the bed, or experiencing layer shift? I think you need to give us a photo.canadianclub wrote: ↑ However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
- JustBob
- Deal Fanatic
- Aug 25, 2010
- 5313 posts
- 1250 upvotes
Off topic but my CR-6 SE arrived today. Since there's no profile for it in Cura, should I use the Ender 3 profile and modify that (at least dimensions) ?
- censored
- Sr. Member
- Jun 15, 2009
- 764 posts
- 217 upvotes
I read that about the dampeners too. And with all of the above leading to overheating, the rubber in between the two mounts does not transmit heat so the natural benefit of entire metal frame being a heat sink goes away. They are a bad idea in the worst case, but specifically with the silent board they are completely useless.Lumute wrote: ↑ Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.
Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.
So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
- canadianclub
- Sr. Member
- Sep 4, 2015
- 525 posts
- 476 upvotes
Thanks for all the suggestions. Seems to have helped.
Thanks for the suggestion. I dropped it down to a piece of paper thickness and leveled. Also slowed down the first 5 layers in Cura to help with first layer adhesion. Dropped the temp on the bed but will try 70 next.
Thanks! I will try that after my latest attempt.Skadefryd wrote: ↑ In terms of bed leveling I would stick with a piece of paper to begin with - I also found some simple squares to be very useful for making sure each side was completely even:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086
Helped to fine-tune the corners and get a nice, even layer.
Making my money go further with RFD since 2017
$25/25GB PhoneBox
$25/20GB Fido Plan
$30/10GB PhoneBox plan
$25/25GB PhoneBox
- canadianclub
- Sr. Member
- Sep 4, 2015
- 525 posts
- 476 upvotes
Did some research and it's layer shift which I would assume wouldn't happen if I was too high (nozzle didn't hit the print and knock it off).
I am 15% into another attempt, hope lowering it to paper thickness and slowing down the initial layers will help.
Thanks
I am 15% into another attempt, hope lowering it to paper thickness and slowing down the initial layers will help.
Thanks
Making my money go further with RFD since 2017
$25/25GB PhoneBox
$25/20GB Fido Plan
$30/10GB PhoneBox plan
$25/25GB PhoneBox
- Chris971
- Member
- Oct 23, 2013
- 324 posts
- 375 upvotes
- Calgary
I have one black and one white filament from Amazon (Overture). The black was printing without any issues but when I switched to white it wouldn't stick to the bed with the exact same settings. I had to slow down first layer, up the temp of nozzle and bed and also play with my Z offset to go down a little bit. I was surprised the same settings didn't work.canadianclub wrote: ↑ Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.
It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.
It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.
0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design
Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.
Any ideas?
- K3lvin
- Jr. Member
- Dec 12, 2006
- 157 posts
- 114 upvotes
- Vancouver
The V2 has been out of stock on the official creality site for the past 2 weeks... might have to bite the bullet and order it off Amazon.ca instead with the higher price... Anyone have updates about their V2 orders that's in the shipment that's stuck at customs?
- Drasco
- Sr. Member
- Mar 4, 2006
- 557 posts
- 295 upvotes
- Toronto
My understanding is it is a good idea to run calibration prints with any new filament regardless of manufacturer. There can be variances between batches even for same colour from same manufacturer.
- OneAndTrueHeir
- Deal Addict
- Jan 31, 2018
- 1515 posts
- 2810 upvotes
- Winnipeg
Yep. And in my experience, white is always the worst of any given type of filament. I think it is because you need lots of white pigment to overcome the background filament color, whereas darker colors can actually use less pigment.
- Mobiledeals
- Newbie
- Dec 8, 2012
- 53 posts
- 44 upvotes
- Canada
https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/c ... 7344038981
This isn't a terrible option if you want the ender 3 v2