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[Amazon.ca] Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319

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Sr. Member
Dec 22, 2001
810 posts
124 upvotes
Ah! Thanks so much. Ok about to about an SKR mini 2.0 and figured maybe I’ll also get a BLTouch... cause I know myself and I’m lazy enough to not calibrate the tray often enough.. as I understand it- with the SKR I just need this one https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/g ... uch-sensor and not the full kit, correct?
Deal Addict
Nov 12, 2006
1767 posts
764 upvotes
London
Lumute wrote: True, but do not use dampers if you have a board with silent drivers (TMC2208, TMC2209 or TMC2225), they are not needed and will actually cause throuble. Same goes for smoothers...
I get the smoothers in that case, as they are an electronic method.

Dampers are simply a mechanical connection, so I don't see what additional issue they would create with silent drivers.
I get that there may be minimal (if any) benefit if silent drivers are used and there probably is no reason at all to use them in that case.

Do you have further information on what actual trouble they would cause?
If they don't cause trouble with "non-silent" drivers, I don't see how they would cause trouble when the motor is driven by a cleaner signal.
Sr. Member
User avatar
Sep 19, 2017
799 posts
627 upvotes
Moncton
boojew wrote: Ah! Thanks so much. Ok about to about an SKR mini 2.0 and figured maybe I’ll also get a BLTouch... cause I know myself and I’m lazy enough to not calibrate the tray often enough.. as I understand it- with the SKR I just need this one https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/g ... uch-sensor and not the full kit, correct?
You're also going to need an extended cable and a mount (if you haven't already printed off something like the petsfang that has a mount incorporated). When I was looking, there wasn't a big price difference between the full creality kit and sourcing those extra parts separately. The only downside to the creality kit used in conjunction with the SKR is that you have to switch a couple of the wires on the cable for it to work on the SKR, but it does have the benefit of allowing relatively easy upgrading of the stock creality board to allow the BLTouch to be used with it while you wait on an SKR.
Koodo 8GB UL T&T @ $45 (ported in from Public Mobile)
ASUS Zenfone 3 Zoom @ $299 / Certified Pre-Owned Huawei P20 @ $240 / Huawei P20 + Huawei Watch GT @ $240
Sr. Member
User avatar
Jan 17, 2006
893 posts
241 upvotes
Mississauga
arisk wrote: I get the smoothers in that case, as they are an electronic method.

Dampers are simply a mechanical connection, so I don't see what additional issue they would create with silent drivers.
I get that there may be minimal (if any) bbenefit if silent drivers are used and there probably is no reason at all to use them in that case.

Do you have further information on what actual trouble they would cause?
If they don't cause trouble with "non-silent" drivers, I don't see how they would cause trouble when the motor is driven by a cleaner signal.
Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.

Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.

So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
Jr. Member
Oct 28, 2003
120 posts
27 upvotes
Another option for people is the Sovol SV01 printer. It is available on amazon.ca right now for 399.00 less $ 30.00 coupon for 369.00 . Bought 1 last week got delivered yesterday. Pretty easy assembly, i took longer to make sure the bed was level. Printed a small part and it looks really good.
It has some upgrades from the Ender 3 being a larger build volume, dual z axis and stepper motors and a direct drive extruder. So for the price difference it seems to be pretty good value.
It is sold by Sovol and fulfilled by Amazon so should be no with returns if need be.
Deal Addict
Nov 12, 2006
1767 posts
764 upvotes
London
Lumute wrote: Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.

Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.

So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
I agree if they aren't needed, then there is no reason to bother using them.
My initial comment was in response to people who stated theirs was too noisy, and except for buying a quiet board, or adding feet, no other option had been presented.
For the original "non quiet" boards, there is a big improvement in noise, so it is a good option with those. (and possibly others, except for the most recent "quiet" versions)
I've seen no references to quality issues as a result of using dampers.

The heat issue is due to the stepper no longer being in contact with the aluminum frame, which acts as a heatsink, and not stress.
Some people add heatsinks to the motors.
I have not, and heat seems reasonable.

I've seen no references to motor tilt.
I could see it possibly happening if the belt tension was too high, but that is a tensioning issue, and not a damper issue.
If the belts are tight enough to tilt the motor, the operator has other issues.
Maybe over-tightening has become a problem with added tensioners, as I stated in another post.
I haven't touched my belt tension since original assembly more than 2 years ago.
Deal Addict
Jul 22, 2014
2113 posts
637 upvotes
Ottawa, ON
Pehnull wrote: $68.49 Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/BIGTREETECH-Upgra ... 661&sr=8-2

$47.66 ($52.95-10% code) 3DPrintingCanada - https://3dprintingcanada.com/products/s ... b94f&_ss=r

$20.83 savings. I spent a few dollars on 2 filament rolls to get up to $99 free shipping level and expected delivery for my 3DPrintingCanada order is Monday
Yeah, maybe not 3, it was working out to be about 5 bucks more from amazon if you concider 3dprinting tax and $9 shipping rate. Got it installed, didn't bother with any firmware updates. Works excellent out off the box and now the noise level is that of my old laptop.
Member
Sep 4, 2015
250 posts
193 upvotes
Kitchener, ON
Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.

It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.

If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.

It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.

0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design

Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.

Any ideas?
Deal Addict
Dec 30, 2008
3971 posts
693 upvotes
Windsor
canadianclub wrote: Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.

It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.

If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.

It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.

0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design

Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.

Any ideas?
I would say a business card is too thick - use paper to level instead and try that.

Also try playing with your temps, a warmer bed (70) will help it stick but also may cause some elephants foot (bottom layers squashing).
Deal Addict
User avatar
Aug 10, 2011
1993 posts
678 upvotes
Edmonton
canadianclub wrote: Thanks OP, really happy with the purchase. May go down as the most useful post (to me) since the public mobile to Koodo migration.

It's been running non stop but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insight. I am leveling it with a business card so it barely squeaks by underneath all 4 corners. I've successfully completed many smaller prints. However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.

If I drop the bed it seems to not want to stick as well.

It shifts the moment the print goes from it's widest point and starts to taper up to a smaller point about an inch off the bed.

0.2mm z offset via Cura in the design

Using 1.75mm overture pla from Amazon and the printing surface it comes with.

Any ideas?
In terms of bed leveling I would stick with a piece of paper to begin with - I also found some simple squares to be very useful for making sure each side was completely even:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086

Helped to fine-tune the corners and get a nice, even layer.
Sr. Member
Jan 31, 2018
612 posts
1098 upvotes
Winnipeg
canadianclub wrote: However when I try to print a custom planter for a friend from thingiverse it will shift the whole print a cm to the right and fail. It's happened 3x now at the 5 hour mark and I can't understand why.
Wait, I don't fully understand. Is it lifting from the bed, or experiencing layer shift? I think you need to give us a photo.
Deal Addict
Aug 25, 2010
4970 posts
893 upvotes
Off topic but my CR-6 SE arrived today. Since there's no profile for it in Cura, should I use the Ender 3 profile and modify that (at least dimensions) ?
Sr. Member
User avatar
Jun 15, 2009
702 posts
166 upvotes
Lumute wrote: Don't have any specific article but during my research I read that they put additional stress on the stepper motors making them run hotter and depending on the position it can cause the motor to tilt. Some people print shims to prevent that.

Also belt tensioning needs to be checked more often, a lot of people start getting artifacts on the print mostly due that.

So, if they are really not needed why add those potential problems / complication?
I read that about the dampeners too. And with all of the above leading to overheating, the rubber in between the two mounts does not transmit heat so the natural benefit of entire metal frame being a heat sink goes away. They are a bad idea in the worst case, but specifically with the silent board they are completely useless.
Member
Sep 4, 2015
250 posts
193 upvotes
Kitchener, ON
Thanks for all the suggestions. Seems to have helped.
G77 wrote: I would say a business card is too thick - use paper to level instead and try that.

Also try playing with your temps, a warmer bed (70) will help it stick but also may cause some elephants foot (bottom layers squashing).
Thanks for the suggestion. I dropped it down to a piece of paper thickness and leveled. Also slowed down the first 5 layers in Cura to help with first layer adhesion. Dropped the temp on the bed but will try 70 next.


Skadefryd wrote: In terms of bed leveling I would stick with a piece of paper to begin with - I also found some simple squares to be very useful for making sure each side was completely even:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086

Helped to fine-tune the corners and get a nice, even layer.
Thanks! I will try that after my latest attempt.
Member
Sep 4, 2015
250 posts
193 upvotes
Kitchener, ON
Did some research and it's layer shift which I would assume wouldn't happen if I was too high (nozzle didn't hit the print and knock it off).

I am 15% into another attempt, hope lowering it to paper thickness and slowing down the initial layers will help.

Thanks

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