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[Amazon.ca] Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319

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Sr. Member
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Sep 19, 2017
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Moncton
ChicoQuente wrote: I tried it this morning to no avail.

They are also quite aggressive with trying to get the sale. I added the SKR to my cart yesterday with the intent of waiting until there is another 10% off sale. It's been just over 24 hours now and I've received 3 emails from them encouraging me to complete the purchase. They've sent a $5 off coupon first, followed by a 5% off and then a reminder about the 5% off coupon.
Yeah, their "you've left something in your cart" email notifications are super aggressive. I recently added a bltouch to the cart so I could check what the discounted price was and their system kept sending me notifications even two days after I'd removed it from the cart in the hopes of ending the notifications of something I had no intention of buying (I already had one... :) ).
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Dec 20, 2006
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sswilson wrote:
80 hours on one part? Heh... my longest so far was somewhere just south of 40 and that was a nail biter... :)
I'm getting ready to do my first 16 hour print. Probably going to move the printer to the basement for that.

So far 8 hours has been the longest. Want to give a nice stress test @ stock before I have to relearn everything after the SKR/BLtouch/TFT.

Other than random models and toys for me and the kids. I have been printing mods for all the little things. Magnet gear shifters and shift knob for driving wheel. Comfort Mods for Oculus Quest. Headphone stands.

Always have something lined up to print.
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Sep 19, 2017
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Moncton
Xephy wrote: I'm getting ready to do my first 16 hour print. Probably going to move the printer to the basement for that.

So far 8 hours has been the longest. Want to give a nice stress test @ stock before I have to relearn everything after the SKR/BLtouch/TFT.

Other than random models and toys for me and the kids. I have been printing mods for all the little things. Magnet gear shifters and shift knob for driving wheel. Comfort Mods for Oculus Quest. Headphone stands.

Always have something lined up to print.
Heh.... I got my printer in on Christmas Eve last year and I don't think it got a rest longer than whatever time was left after it'd stopped printing in the middle of the night and I started it back up in the morning until sometime around mid February.

Just finished my first Vase/spiral mode print but had to learn that the print I was doing needed a high "bottom layer" count or else it would fail while trying to get the base started... raised the bottom layers to 40 and it printed those in normal mode and then picked up the Vase/Spiral mode without a hitch. There's no end to learning different/better ways of doing things.
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Mar 28, 2004
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So I installed the quieter board. Everything seems to start fine, however I tried to print and the machine went crazy. Loud crunch, awful noise.

I get Homing Failed. Printer Halted. Makes the worst noise ever. WOW. When it does move, it sounds silent. Any tips?

EDIT: I think I got it. I had those red stepper switches installed, as I thought they were in the wiring diagram. Removing them, seems to work. Super quiet. Now if I could only level this stupid thing!
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Mar 4, 2006
406 posts
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Toronto
lindmar wrote: So I installed the quieter board. Everything seems to start fine, however I tried to print and the machine went crazy. Loud crunch, awful noise.

I get Homing Failed. Printer Halted. Makes the worst noise ever. WOW. When it does move, it sounds silent. Any tips?

EDIT: I think I got it. I had those red stepper switches installed, as I thought they were in the wiring diagram. Removing them, seems to work. Super quiet. Now if I could only level this stupid thing!
Tech tips has a video on how to perform mesh bed leveling with the SKR board.
Jr. Member
Nov 28, 2011
127 posts
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Points east
I keep seeing in forums and YouTube videos that the SKR Mini E3 V2 is cheaper than the Creality silent board. I can get the Creality 4.2.7 board on Amazon for <$50 delivered in 2 days. Anyone know of a better deal for the SKR?
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Mar 28, 2004
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Drasco wrote: Tech tips has a video on how to perform mesh bed leveling with the SKR board.
Thanks! I am super happy with the upgrade. Still struggling a bit to level as well as I had it before the install, but it's so quiet. Worth it.
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Jun 21, 2003
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lindmar wrote: Thanks! I am super happy with the upgrade. Still struggling a bit to level as well as I had it before the install, but it's so quiet. Worth it.
As someone looking to upgrade in the near future I was wondering why does the SKR make it harder to level than the stock board? I'd like to know what I'm getting in to.
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ChicoQuente wrote: As someone looking to upgrade in the near future I was wondering why does the SKR make it harder to level than the stock board? I'd like to know what I'm getting in to.
I think I had it dialed really in, and taking apart my setup, moving off the table, flipping on its side... has just made it a bit more quirky.
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Jul 22, 2014
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ChicoQuente wrote: As someone looking to upgrade in the near future I was wondering why does the SKR make it harder to level than the stock board? I'd like to know what I'm getting in to.
Not sure where lindmar went wrong, but I didn’t have to re level after skr upgrade. It’s basically plug and play.
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Sep 19, 2017
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Moncton
Creality BLTouch cable pinouts vs SKR mini E3

If anybody has bought the creality bltouch kit and you're wondering about how to wire it to an SKR....

https://user-images.githubusercontent.c ... bec618.png

That's the SKR pinout diagram. You should be using the "servo" connector + z axis switch.

Servo connector pinouts are PA1 / +5V / GND

From the Creality manual (sheet) their pinouts are Yellow Sig (PA1) / Blue GND / Red VCC (+5V) so you need to swap the blue and red wires and install the connector with the yellow wire facing forward.

I have a V1.2 so you'd have to select the appropriate firmware from the github page, but their pre-mixed bltouch firmware was plug/play for me, all I had to do was enter the bltouch offsets from the printer's menu and then adjust my z-offset. (Which I suppose is technically not really plug/play, but you knew what I meant.... :) )
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Nov 6, 2016
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OneAndTrueHeir wrote: Depends what I'm printing. For high quality and 0.12 mm layers I stick to 60 mm/s in Cura (60 infill 30 walls) and push acceleration to 600 mm/s/s. Any faster, and ringing and corners suffer. For 0.2 mm layers, I push inner walls to 45 mm/s. For rough parts I use 0.28 mm layers, 80-100 mm/s and 1000 mm/s/s.



80 hours is my longest. Almost half a roll of filament at pretty high detail. And I print overnight and while I am at work very frequently.
Very informative thanks! Is there a reference guide for such settings or was it trial and error for you to determine what worked best?
Sr. Member
Jan 31, 2018
667 posts
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Winnipeg
indeals wrote: Very informative thanks! Is there a reference guide for such settings or was it trial and error for you to determine what worked best?
Trial and error, based on other references.

Everyone's printer is subtly different. Everyone's tolerance for imperfection is different. For instance, at those speeds, my printer manages quality that matches printers costing thousands of dollars, with one exception; my printer suffers from so-called 'vertical fine artifacts' that are usually attributed to low quality steppers. So I'm going to spend 80% of the whole initial purchase price just to replace all my steppers.

All that said, the single most effective printer upgrade to improve quality is generally to accept that you should print slower.
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Sep 19, 2017
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Moncton
PriceMatchher wrote: Thinking about getting a non expensive starter 3D printer.. is Labists mini 3D printer any good? Heard it is pretty decent for its price and it's on sale for $141.49. Any feedback will be appreciated!

Labists Mini 3D Printer
This printer gets mentioned in just about every ender 3 thread (often more than once :) ). There's not much in the way of first hand commentary on how well it works, but even without that, the bed is quite simply too small to be able to recommend it to somebody looking into their first printer. Any new user is going to quickly grow out of that size restriction and either want to upgrade to a larger bed, or just give up on 3D printing as "gimmicky".
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Dec 20, 2006
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OneAndTrueHeir wrote: Trial and error, based on other references.

Everyone's printer is subtly different. Everyone's tolerance for imperfection is different. For instance, at those speeds, my printer manages quality that matches printers costing thousands of dollars, with one exception; my printer suffers from so-called 'vertical fine artifacts' that are usually attributed to low quality steppers. So I'm going to spend 80% of the whole initial purchase price just to replace all my steppers.

All that said, the single most effective printer upgrade to improve quality is generally to accept that you should print slower.
Good tip and very well said. I got some vertical artifacts on one part but it was one the outside of a curve so it didn't affect the usability of the part. (Printing an adapter to go around a steering wheel driveshaft.) some outside walls too printing at 100%.

The perfectionist in me wants it to be as close to perfect off the bed. The fixer in Me says "just cut it off with a knife and get over it. To which the perfectionist replies "shut up. It can be better."
sswilson wrote: Creality BLTouch cable pinouts vs SKR mini E3

If anybody has bought the creality bltouch kit and you're wondering about how to wire it to an SKR....

https://user-images.githubusercontent.c ... bec618.png

That's the SKR pinout diagram. You should be using the "servo" connector + z axis switch.

Servo connector pinouts are PA1 / +5V / GND

From the Creality manual (sheet) their pinouts are Yellow Sig (PA1) / Blue GND / Red VCC (+5V) so you need to swap the blue and red wires and install the connector with the yellow wire facing forward.

I have a V1.2 so you'd have to select the appropriate firmware from the github page, but their pre-mixed bltouch firmware was plug/play for me, all I had to do was enter the bltouch offsets from the printer's menu and then adjust my z-offset. (Which I suppose is technically not really plug/play, but you knew what I meant.... :) )
God bless you good sir. You're a gentlemen and a scholar. I hope I can someday share the knowledge you have shared with me with others. This is exactly what I needed today.

So I am swapping out my board and I noticed all the connections on my V4.2.2 are hot glued into place. Fan connections/stepper drivers/screen/axis sensors. All hot glued on. The steppers were especially annoying to get off. I 'rektd' that board prying off the connections. Had to clean off all the glue on the connectors with a knife after.

Thankfully I wasn't going to try to sell it. Not sure if anyone elses board was like that. But it was a major annoyance I ran into swapping out the boards.

Other than that spent a lot of time cable managing all the wires and running the BLtouch wire together with the other wires. It was a mess down there and I just prefer it nice and clean. Plus better air flow.

Now I just need to learn how to properly remove and swap pins and close it up. install the metal extruder and capricorn hose and springs relevel and firmware install and I'm done. Hahha hopefully not too many issues but that's dreamer like thinking.
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