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[Amazon.ca] Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319

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Sep 19, 2017
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Xephy wrote: Good tip and very well said. I got some vertical artifacts on one part but it was one the outside of a curve so it didn't affect the usability of the part. (Printing an adapter to go around a steering wheel driveshaft.) some outside walls too printing at 100%.

The perfectionist in me wants it to be as close to perfect off the bed. The fixer in Me says "just cut it off with a knife and get over it. To which the perfectionist replies "shut up. It can be better."



God bless you good sir. You're a gentlemen and a scholar. I hope I can someday share the knowledge you have shared with me with others. This is exactly what I needed today.

So I am swapping out my board and I noticed all the connections on my V4.2.2 are hot glued into place. Fan connections/stepper drivers/screen/axis sensors. All hot glued on. The steppers were especially annoying to get off. I 'rektd' that board prying off the connections. Had to clean off all the glue on the connectors with a knife after.

Thankfully I wasn't going to try to sell it. Not sure if anyone elses board was like that. But it was a major annoyance I ran into swapping out the boards.

Other than that spent a lot of time cable managing all the wires and running the BLtouch wire together with the other wires. It was a mess down there and I just prefer it nice and clean. Plus better air flow.

Now I just need to learn how to properly remove and swap pins and close it up. install the metal extruder and capricorn hose and springs relevel and firmware install and I'm done. Hahha hopefully not too many issues but that's dreamer like thinking.
Heh... I suppose the suggestion that you really should only do one major mod at a time in order to make troubleshooting issues easier would be wasted? ;)

At the very least, I'd suggest leaving the bltouch disconnected for your first power up of the new board and testing the movement of your axis' with the stock firmware on the new board. (edit, although in fairness my printer was already running the bltouch with the stock mainboard when I swapped so I didn't have the option of going without the bltouch since I had no Z-stop switch). :)
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sswilson wrote:
Heh... I suppose the suggestion that you really should only do one major mod at a time in order to make troubleshooting issues easier would be wasted? ;)

At the very least, I'd suggest leaving the bltouch disconnected for your first power up of the new board and testing the movement of your axis' with the stock firmware on the new board. (edit, although in fairness my printer was already running the bltouch with the stock mainboard when I swapped so I didn't have the option of going without the bltouch since I had no Z-stop switch). :)
Heh. I prefer hard mode on a lot of things. But yeah this might be too much at once. with my luck, Troubleshooting will be a pain.

Yeah I had just wanted to wire it since I was already down there. I may have pushed my original tube down too far and got melted/stuck to the hotend. So I'm leaving the tube extruder springs upgrade for another time.

Just the TFT and SkR mini for now. Though BLtouch is ready but I'm just more comfortable with the manual leveling for now.

edit: so after powering it on. It didn't detect the printer. This went away after a few moments. Then I was able to play with axis and test the stepper drivers. Much improved. I powered it off an attempted to install the GitHub non BLtouch firmware and now it doesn't detect my printer at all unless in marlin mode. Will try again with BLtouch firmware. Or Maybe I have to update the screen firmware too.

I followed the video for the installation. In the video it tells me to switch the placement of 24v fan connector and mainboard fan connector. Now when it powers on the hot end fan doesn't turn on. But now it doesn't turn on even when printing. Not sure if it's suppose to be like that. The blower fan is still normal.
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Somehow, I've managed to spend 12 hours+ on my ender 3 v2 (about $330 cad) and I've only managed to get to bed levelling. Ran into couple of issues along the way:
  • trouble figuring out the metal extruder (black) upgrade. Turns out it doesn't actually use a screw on coupler!
  • took a while getting the 2 z rails parallel. Noticed the guide wheels were super tight near the bottom and loose near the top.
  • flashing the bltouch firmware resulted in black screen on startup. Probably because I didn't have a bltouch installed?
  • took a while figuring out how high to set the z limit switch. The upgraded springs made the bed pretty high even with the springs cranked down.
  • took a bit getting the filament past the extruder. I thought maybe I didn't install the Capricorn tubes l tubes properly. But it was probably just that I didn't straighten the filament enough before threading.
  • and of course, levelling took forever. First did paper method then with squares. Learned a lot of lessons. I got the corners looking good now but the middle square has some gaps. Oh well.
It was pretty fun though. The black screen gave me a scare. Accidentally popping the screen out of the casing while trying to get the control knob back on also almost gave me a heart attack. Going to do more calibrations tomorrow and then hopefully start printing things I actually want.
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Thundercloud wrote: Somehow, I've managed to spend 12 hours+ on my ender 3 v2 (about $330 cad) and I've only managed to get to bed levelling. Ran into couple of issues along the way:
  • trouble figuring out the metal extruder (black) upgrade. Turns out it doesn't actually use a screw on coupler!
  • took a while getting the 2 z rails parallel. Noticed the guide wheels were super tight near the bottom and loose near the top.
  • flashing the bltouch firmware resulted in black screen on startup. Probably because I didn't have a bltouch installed?
  • took a while figuring out how high to set the z limit switch. The upgraded springs made the bed pretty high even with the springs cranked down.
  • took a bit getting the filament past the extruder. I thought maybe I didn't install the Capricorn tubes l tubes properly. But it was probably just that I didn't straighten the filament enough before threading.
  • and of course, levelling took forever. First did paper method then with squares. Learned a lot of lessons. I got the corners looking good now but the middle square has some gaps. Oh well.
It was pretty fun though. The black screen gave me a scare. Accidentally popping the screen out of the casing while trying to get the control knob back on also almost gave me a heart attack. Going to do more calibrations tomorrow and then hopefully start printing things I actually want.
How did you solve the issue with the guide wheels?
I'm finding the outside wheels at the right friction, but the 2 adjustable ones on the inside too tight.
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Chingyul wrote: How did you solve the issue with the guide wheels?
I'm finding the outside wheels at the right friction, but the 2 adjustable ones on the inside too tight.
that happens when the rails are too close together and are pushing against the inside wheels. Move your cross bar up and down and see if the tension on the inside wheel is even the whole range. If it's not, that means the vertical bars aren't parallel. Loosen top and bottom bolts x8 for the vertical bars, move the cross bar to the bottom, carefully tighten the bottom bolts without applying pressure to the vertical bars, move the cross bar to the top, tighten the top 4 bolts.

If the inside wheel is tight throughout but outside wheels are loose, maybe the guides on the cross bar are too far apart? Loosen both ends, run it up and down a bit to get it to move to where it wants, retighten.

edit: actually, don't listen to me. i rechecked again today and the inside wheels are too tight near the bottom half again so it obviously didn't work!

edit 2: Ended up disassembling most of the printer and reinstalled the frames.
1) remove z stepper motor, z screw, z limit switch, top extrusion and most power cables
2) lay the z extrusions on a table so they're flat, check they're perpendicular with a triangle ruler, tighten
3) use a ruler to measure the distance between the 2 z extrusions at the base and at the top. adjusted bolts until they're parallel
4) loosen the 4 screws attaching the guides to the x extrusion
5) adjust the wheel tensions
6) level the x extrusion using two equal height object
7) tighten the two left screws and recheck
8) tighten the two right screws and re-tension the belt
9) check movement and wheel tension throughout to make sure everything's cool
10) reinstall z lead screw and stepper motor

I noticed that my z lead screw is not parallel to the z extrusion. it's way off. I stuck a layer of paper between the coupler and it helps a little. I'm going to need to look into printing something to replace it. Now all 6 of my wheels are touching, correctly tensioned throughout, and the x extrusion moves up and down smoothly.
I managed to nick my wheels good popping the x extrusion on and off repeatedly though. Now I get to level the machine all over again, yay!
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The SKR board was/is/has been worth every penny. I can't believe it's utterly silent, nor can I believe those horrible noises before were coming from the board! That's just insane. It's so quiet now, just the fans.

I also can't believe how much we have fallen in love with 3D Printing. If you remember my earlier posts, I did not buy this to "save money" or print things around the house, but to have fun and learn. I have two girls. We've been printing jewelry, articulating toys, and a full size mandalorian helmet (a 3 week work in progress).

We're having a blast.

The WORST part is failed prints, bed levelling, and trying to figure out whats going wrong. The same print can fail ten times in a row with a slight adjustment in temperature, bed level, orientation, and it works.

Is the BL touch worth it? That would be about $650 into this printer, which makes me think more about a better printer (Prusa) etc.

The Ender does seem good, when you can get it to go and work. I do think more time is spent tinkering than actually printing, which can get frustrating.
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Dec 12, 2006
54 posts
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Vancouver
Thundercloud wrote: Somehow, I've managed to spend 12 hours+ on my ender 3 v2 (about $330 cad) and I've only managed to get to bed levelling. Ran into couple of issues along the way:
  • trouble figuring out the metal extruder (black) upgrade. Turns out it doesn't actually use a screw on coupler!
  • took a while getting the 2 z rails parallel. Noticed the guide wheels were super tight near the bottom and loose near the top.
  • flashing the bltouch firmware resulted in black screen on startup. Probably because I didn't have a bltouch installed?
  • took a while figuring out how high to set the z limit switch. The upgraded springs made the bed pretty high even with the springs cranked down.
  • took a bit getting the filament past the extruder. I thought maybe I didn't install the Capricorn tubes l tubes properly. But it was probably just that I didn't straighten the filament enough before threading.
  • and of course, levelling took forever. First did paper method then with squares. Learned a lot of lessons. I got the corners looking good now but the middle square has some gaps. Oh well.
It was pretty fun though. The black screen gave me a scare. Accidentally popping the screen out of the casing while trying to get the control knob back on also almost gave me a heart attack. Going to do more calibrations tomorrow and then hopefully start printing things I actually want.
Oh man, I'm waiting for my v2 to arrive and your post scares me because you at least sound like you know what you're doing with troubleshooting and all that... I'm completely new at all this and not the least bit knowledgeable when it comes to technical/calibration stuff... so hopefully the instructions are clear enough for me to set it up... Any tips for what videos/guides you might have used to put the v2 together that might help a newbie like me out when I assemble it for the first time?

Received some tips earlier on in response to my post about building it stock first and then playing around with it later, but sounds like you went straight for switching up the springs and metal extruder?

Any info you or anyone else can offer would be great! I'm loving this thread and I check back often to read everyone's posts.
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Sep 30, 2003
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K3lvin wrote: Oh man, I'm waiting for my v2 to arrive and your post scares me because you at least sound like you know what you're doing with troubleshooting and all that... I'm completely new at all this and not the least bit knowledgeable when it comes to technical/calibration stuff... so hopefully the instructions are clear enough for me to set it up... Any tips for what videos/guides you might have used to put the v2 together that might help a newbie like me out when I assemble it for the first time?

Received some tips earlier on in response to my post about building it stock first and then playing around with it later, but sounds like you went straight for switching up the springs and metal extruder?

Any info you or anyone else can offer would be great! I'm loving this thread and I check back often to read everyone's posts.
Watch this video and use it as a guide:

The v2 will be slightly different but the main things are the same which he tells you to do to ensure it's 'dialed' in. Take time and build it right the first time and you won't have to deal with the headache of fixing as much later on.
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K3lvin wrote: Oh man, I'm waiting for my v2 to arrive and your post scares me because you at least sound like you know what you're doing with troubleshooting and all that... I'm completely new at all this and not the least bit knowledgeable when it comes to technical/calibration stuff... so hopefully the instructions are clear enough for me to set it up... Any tips for what videos/guides you might have used to put the v2 together that might help a newbie like me out when I assemble it for the first time?

Received some tips earlier on in response to my post about building it stock first and then playing around with it later, but sounds like you went straight for switching up the springs and metal extruder?

Any info you or anyone else can offer would be great! I'm loving this thread and I check back often to read everyone's posts.
IndoShindo wrote: Watch this video and use it as a guide:

The v2 will be slightly different but the main things are the same which he tells you to do to ensure it's 'dialed' in. Take time and build it right the first time and you won't have to deal with the headache of fixing as much later on.
He actually has a v2 specific video that I enjoyed.


Other useful info:
Upgrade kit: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08BR5GS4R Upgrade kit guide:

I also referenced this video for aligning the frame and z lead screw:

Luke's help guide PDF. Go through the parts terminology section for sure: https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us ... ity-Others

Tips from my experience this weekend
- Useful items: digital caliper, something right angle (like a right angle triangle ruler), level, something of even height (such as identical sized flashlights, slim bottles, or cd cases), garbage can, high % isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle + rag for cleaning the plate, dyson hand vacuum to suck up the plastic flakes, tweezers
- tighten all screws before starting (except for the brass t hole that the z lead threads into and make sure the base is actually level. Don't over tighten though.
- be careful with the nozzle hitting the glass. Maybe keep the film on or the plate off longer.
- The z-lead screw is fully of grease, try not to drop it on your carpet D;
- Careful putting the wheels on the z-extrusion as the edge might scratch the wheels.
- don't move the stepper motors too fast manually after it's plugged in. The electricity generated might fry stuff
- Crank the screws tight and lower the z-limit switch before leveling.
- Make sure the bed and nozzles are HOT before leveling. (I wasted quite a bit of time leveling a cold machine...)
- The screen itself has a microsd card reader for updating firmware. Use Ender-3 V2_32bit_ 2.0.1V Latest Firmware_0814.rar I flashed the marlin .bin initially but it made me black screen. I haven't tried it again.
Last edited by Thundercloud on Sep 21st, 2020 12:23 am, edited 3 times in total.
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lindmar wrote: The SKR board was/is/has been worth every penny. I can't believe it's utterly silent, nor can I believe those horrible noises before were coming from the board! That's just insane. It's so quiet now, just the fans.

I also can't believe how much we have fallen in love with 3D Printing. If you remember my earlier posts, I did not buy this to "save money" or print things around the house, but to have fun and learn. I have two girls. We've been printing jewelry, articulating toys, and a full size mandalorian helmet (a 3 week work in progress).

We're having a blast.

The WORST part is failed prints, bed levelling, and trying to figure out whats going wrong. The same print can fail ten times in a row with a slight adjustment in temperature, bed level, orientation, and it works.

Is the BL touch worth it? That would be about $650 into this printer, which makes me think more about a better printer (Prusa) etc.

The Ender does seem good, when you can get it to go and work. I do think more time is spent tinkering than actually printing, which can get frustrating.
I personally feel it's well worth the $75 - $100 it's currently going for. I double nutted my bed when I got the bltouch dialed in (removed the springs completely, levelled as best I could, and then locked the bed in place) and haven't needed to even consider doing a level on it in months.

I spent the first couple of months tinkering, upgrading, and printing off mods, but now just spend my time printing what I want and learning new techniques. Once you've done the upgrades I'm sure you'd find that you wouldn't get a better experience out of a $1000+ printer. (None of them are plug/play no matter how much you pay).
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Today I printed a recorder for fun for my daughter. It was in 4 pieces all printed at once standing upright. All 4 pieces have an ugly "line" and imperfections running up the length. On all 4 it only occurs in 1 spot on the piece. Its got a visible line and it's kind of bumpy. What would this imperfection be called and what settings would I be looking at to fix the issue?
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ChicoQuente wrote: Today I printed a recorder for fun for my daughter. It was in 4 pieces all printed at once standing upright. All 4 pieces have an ugly "line" and imperfections running up the length. On all 4 it only occurs in 1 spot on the piece. Its got a visible line and it's kind of bumpy. What would this imperfection be called and what settings would I be looking at to fix the issue?
It looks like the seam - where the printer begins and ends the layer from.

If anyone has a solution to it I'd be interested, too, as I get them fairly often. For some reason Cura sometimes slices things in a way that hides the seam on a corner, and other times I get things (like a box for filament swatches) where it goes up at a diagonal.
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Jan 31, 2018
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Winnipeg
ChicoQuente wrote: Today I printed a recorder for fun for my daughter. It was in 4 pieces all printed at once standing upright. All 4 pieces have an ugly "line" and imperfections running up the length. On all 4 it only occurs in 1 spot on the piece. Its got a visible line and it's kind of bumpy. What would this imperfection be called and what settings would I be looking at to fix the issue?
That is the z-seam. It is an inherent flaw/limitation of the FDM printing process. After completing the outer wall, it needs to move inwards, which inevitably creates a bump or void. Which it is depends on whether there is to much or too little filament, and whether things aren't perfect at the start or the end of the outer wall.

There are various ways to minimise this, but you cannot eliminate it. The main setting in Cura is Shell > Z-seam alignment. If your print has lots of sharp corners, set it to 'sharpest corner'. If your print has a logical place to hide it, then 'user specified' and set a location. Sometimes 'random' works to distribute small imperfections everywhere (I hate this setting).

Whether the seam is a bump or a void can also help you mitigate. Looks like you have a bump, so you should consider Experimental > Enable Coasting. Then for a 0.2 mm layer height with PLA, I like 0.032 mm^3 coasting volume and 0.6 mm^3 volume before coasting. A little bit of coasting also helps reduce stringing on retractions.
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Dec 12, 2006
54 posts
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Vancouver
IndoShindo wrote: Watch this video and use it as a guide:

The v2 will be slightly different but the main things are the same which he tells you to do to ensure it's 'dialed' in. Take time and build it right the first time and you won't have to deal with the headache of fixing as much later on.
Thundercloud wrote: He actually has a v2 specific video that I enjoyed.


Other useful info:
Upgrade kit: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08BR5GS4R Upgrade kit guide:

I also referenced this video for aligning the frame and z lead screw:

Luke's help guide PDF. Go through the parts terminology section for sure: https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/en-us ... ity-Others

Tips from my experience this weekend
- Useful items: digital caliper, something right angle (like a right angle triangle ruler), level, something of even height (such as identical sized flashlights, slim bottles, or cd cases), garbage can, high % isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle + rag for cleaning the plate, dyson hand vacuum to suck up the plastic flakes, tweezers
- tighten all screws before starting (except for the brass t hole that the z lead threads into and make sure the base is actually level. Don't over tighten though.
- be careful with the nozzle hitting the glass. Maybe keep the film on or the plate off longer.
- The z-lead screw is fully of grease, try not to drop it on your carpet D;
- Careful putting the wheels on the z-extrusion as the edge might scratch the wheels.
- don't move the stepper motors too fast manually after it's plugged in. The electricity generated might fry stuff
- Crank the screws tight and lower the z-limit switch before leveling.
- Make sure the bed and nozzles are HOT before leveling. (I wasted quite a bit of time leveling a cold machine...)
- The screen itself has a microsd card reader for updating firmware. Use Ender-3 V2_32bit_ 2.0.1V Latest Firmware_0814.rar I flashed the marlin .bin initially but it made me black screen. I haven't tried it again.
Thank you both for the tips and resources! Printer is is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so will be reviewing these tips/videos before building - super excited for it!
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lindmar wrote: The SKR board was/is/has been worth every penny. I can't believe it's utterly silent, nor can I believe those horrible noises before were coming from the board! That's just insane. It's so quiet now, just the fans.

I also can't believe how much we have fallen in love with 3D Printing. If you remember my earlier posts, I did not buy this to "save money" or print things around the house, but to have fun and learn. I have two girls. We've been printing jewelry, articulating toys, and a full size mandalorian helmet (a 3 week work in progress).

We're having a blast.

The WORST part is failed prints, bed levelling, and trying to figure out whats going wrong. The same print can fail ten times in a row with a slight adjustment in temperature, bed level, orientation, and it works.

Is the BL touch worth it? That would be about $650 into this printer, which makes me think more about a better printer (Prusa) etc.

The Ender does seem good, when you can get it to go and work. I do think more time is spent tinkering than actually printing, which can get frustrating.
You can buy a clone of the Prusa i3 MK3s for ~$350 on aliexpress, you have to build the machine from scratch. I have not used the clone prusa machines, I have a geniune MK3s. Prusa gives you very high print quality out of the box, the stock firmware is very well tuned for the printer.

The ender 3 with the SKR board with slient steppers with ABL sensor with extruder calibration with linear advance calibration, should produce prints that at least rival Prusa prints.

Prusa delivers a good package, the printer is solid without upgrades, Prusa has their own free slicer that is a very good slicer and the default material settings are bang on for the MK3s.

Most of the upgrades for the ender 3 can be removed and used for your next 3d printer, you can revert the ender 3 back to stock and use most of the same upgrade parts for your new printer.
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