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[Amazon.ca] Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer $319

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Mar 28, 2004
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Drasco wrote: Tech tips has a video on how to perform mesh bed leveling with the SKR board.
Do you know which video this is? I tried to find it but couldnt.
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Sep 15, 2020
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Halifax
I don't even know if you guys talking about CAD or USD because if it was USD, now they sell it like $209 and pretty sure they are some coupon could be find to get it lower than $200.. Personal idea is Ender3v2 is way better than 3 pro.
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Jun 21, 2003
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Skadefryd wrote: It looks like the seam - where the printer begins and ends the layer from.

If anyone has a solution to it I'd be interested, too, as I get them fairly often. For some reason Cura sometimes slices things in a way that hides the seam on a corner, and other times I get things (like a box for filament swatches) where it goes up at a diagonal.
OneAndTrueHeir wrote: That is the z-seam. It is an inherent flaw/limitation of the FDM printing process. After completing the outer wall, it needs to move inwards, which inevitably creates a bump or void. Which it is depends on whether there is to much or too little filament, and whether things aren't perfect at the start or the end of the outer wall.

There are various ways to minimise this, but you cannot eliminate it. The main setting in Cura is Shell > Z-seam alignment. If your print has lots of sharp corners, set it to 'sharpest corner'. If your print has a logical place to hide it, then 'user specified' and set a location. Sometimes 'random' works to distribute small imperfections everywhere (I hate this setting).

Whether the seam is a bump or a void can also help you mitigate. Looks like you have a bump, so you should consider Experimental > Enable Coasting. Then for a 0.2 mm layer height with PLA, I like 0.032 mm^3 coasting volume and 0.6 mm^3 volume before coasting. A little bit of coasting also helps reduce stringing on retractions.
Thanks for the info guys. I'll do some reading to better understand. I was unfamiliar with the seam as I really haven't found it very noticeable in previous prints. I guess the fact this is a round item makes it more obvious. I do wish it had been on the "underside" of the recorder (when held in a playing position) though it's close. I'm glad to hear it's a normal "issue" and not just a problem with my print.
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Nov 12, 2006
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VelvetElvis wrote: I keep seeing in forums and YouTube videos that the SKR Mini E3 V2 is cheaper than the Creality silent board. I can get the Creality 4.2.7 board on Amazon for <$50 delivered in 2 days. Anyone know of a better deal for the SKR?
I was curious and looked up the Amazon ones.
It appears those $50 ones are the 8-bit boards.
I see no reference to 32-bit and review dates by far pre-date the existence of Creality 32-bit boards.
I assume when people reference the SKR being cheaper, they are comparing 32bit boards.
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Sep 19, 2017
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Moncton
ChicoQuente wrote: Thanks for the info guys. I'll do some reading to better understand. I was unfamiliar with the seam as I really haven't found it very noticeable in previous prints. I guess the fact this is a round item makes it more obvious. I do wish it had been on the "underside" of the recorder (when held in a playing position) though it's close. I'm glad to hear it's a normal "issue" and not just a problem with my print.
That's a function of how the part is placed on the bed in your slicer program. If the STL files are individual you can rotate them around on the slicer "bed" so that the "back" of the part is exactly where you want it and then slice/save the file. On parts with corners Cura will try to hide the seam, but unfortunately there's not a lot that can be done on a cylinder, If you're printing a purely decorative piece you can try Vase/Spiral mode which prints a single long outer layer but has no structural stength.
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Nov 28, 2011
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Points east
arisk wrote: I was curious and looked up the Amazon ones.
It appears those $50 ones are the 8-bit boards.
I see no reference to 32-bit and review dates by far pre-date the existence of Creality 32-bit boards.
I assume when people reference the SKR being cheaper, they are comparing 32bit boards.
The Creality 4.2.7 board is actually 32 bit.

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Sep 19, 2017
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VelvetElvis wrote: The Creality 4.2.7 board is actually 32 bit.

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/prod ... ard-v4-2-7
The TMC driver is super quiet!
Bootloader installed (ISP/USB Arduino)
Suitable for Ender-3/Ender-3 Pro /Ender-5/Ender 5 Pro(The Silent Mainboard of Ender 5 Pro V4.2.2 and V4.2.7 shipped randomly)
Firmware 4.2.7 comes pre-installed on this board
WTH is that supposed to mean? If it requires an ISP or an Arduino then it most certainly doesn't have a bootloader (specifically means it will attempt to load a firmware file on boot if it sees it in the root of the SD).

It also claims that it's not compatible with the V2, and suggests installing either the 8bit or 32bit motherboard firmware?

I'm not convinced that's a 32bit board, but that might just be a reflection of it being a new product for Creality and not having decent documentation.

edit: Heh... I see there's a vid now... watching.... :)

edit2: Ok, so that clears up quite a bit of the confusion around what was going on, thanks for the link.
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Nov 12, 2006
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VelvetElvis wrote: The Creality 4.2.7 board is actually 32 bit.
It would appear so.
I initially looked at this, and another link.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07V7S4NK7/ref ... AFbS2RG7KC
"Creality 3D 1.1.5 (4.2.7) New Upgrade Silent Mainboard for Ender 3 Pro"
Perhaps Creality is using 4.2.7 for both a board version, and a firmware version?
What a mess.

I now see "Creality Ender 3 New Upgrade Motherboard Silent Mainboard V4.2.7"
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TFTVTXK/ref ... AFbN0ZKPW9
which does state 32bit.
Jr. Member
Nov 28, 2011
126 posts
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Points east
arisk wrote: It would appear so.
I initially looked at this, and another link.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07V7S4NK7/ref ... AFbS2RG7KC
"Creality 3D 1.1.5 (4.2.7) New Upgrade Silent Mainboard for Ender 3 Pro"
Perhaps Creality is using 4.2.7 for both a board version, and a firmware version?
What a mess.

I now see "Creality Ender 3 New Upgrade Motherboard Silent Mainboard V4.2.7"
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TFTVTXK/ref ... AFbN0ZKPW9
which does state 32bit.
I don't know why that vendor is muddying the waters. 1.1.5 was the 8 BIT silent mobo. It's been replaced by the 32 bit 4.2.7 silent board.
It seems they've kept some of the verbiage from their 8 bit board ad, and are simply shipping the new 32 bit board in its place. To make matters worse, some of the customer's answers to other customer's questions are based on the old 8 bit board.
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Mar 4, 2006
402 posts
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Toronto
lindmar wrote: Do you know which video this is? I tried to find it but couldnt.
From teaching tech, starts at 9 min:


FYI, you will have to modify the Marlin firmware code. He goes through how to enable it in the firmware because it's disabled by default. I have zero programming skills but the step by step video is easy to follow. Let me know if you need any help. I enabled it last week and so far so good.
Jr. Member
Feb 18, 2015
131 posts
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Woodstock, ON
Thundercloud wrote: brass thing that the z-lead screw goes through?
Brass thing is the nut. I doubt that would bend your stepper shaft. They are relatively inexpensive at that size.
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Mar 28, 2004
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Drasco wrote: From teaching tech, starts at 9 min:


FYI, you will have to modify the Marlin firmware code. He goes through how to enable it in the firmware because it's disabled by default. I have zero programming skills but the step by step video is easy to follow. Let me know if you need any help. I enabled it last week and so far so good.
Thanks for the video. I am on a mac, so it's a bit more complicated. I was able to get the new firmware, compiled, and it started, but he loses me on the g29 stuff after. I level using the bed level tool but when I try to print its way off.
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Mar 4, 2006
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Toronto
lindmar wrote: Thanks for the video. I am on a mac, so it's a bit more complicated. I was able to get the new firmware, compiled, and it started, but he loses me on the g29 stuff after. I level using the bed level tool but when I try to print its way off.
The g29 code is to report the mesh bed level offsets for the 9 points that gets stored. Just in case if you need to refer to it later. What follows after is the g28 code to let the firmware know to use the mesh level offsets when starting print. If you don't want to fiddle with the gcodes, you can load the settings manually before every print. Check out this other video that covers the same topic but without the gcodes stuff (also a great resource):
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Dec 22, 2001
819 posts
126 upvotes
Finally got around to assembling my Pro that arrived 2 weeks ago and it doesn’t power on. :( no light on the PSU. Sigh. Support, here I come.

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