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[Amazon.ca] Prime Day: Samsung Harman Kardon HW-Q7CR/ZA 3.1.2 Atmos Soundbar w 8" Sub - $499.98 (50% off)

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drx1 wrote: How do you guys see/keep track of the price history ? or get notifications for the price drops?
Thanks!
Missed this post earlier. I use a few methods but mainly Keepa when it comes to Amazon.

https://keepa.com
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gundamwingZero wrote: Got the rear kit from amazon warehouse... aside from the generic packaging... the unit can pass as like new to brand new... if it is working remains to be seen...
now... if only intelcom will deliver my soundbar... expecting a same day delivery last 14th and until now is "on the way" due to "wrong carrier...."
My rear kit was a Warehouse deal as well. Not a scratch on it, was wrapped really well, all the cables and accessories were in the box and it works just fine. I purchase Warehouse deals quite often if the price is right and have initiated very few (free) returns. I hope you get your system soon and enjoy it... leave a comment after you demo it if you feel inclined.
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Mylocosta wrote: I also got mine the other day. I don’t have a great tb (Hisense r6) But just wondering regarding update the sound bar patch. How do i do that? And since my tv is average is it even worth updating sound bar? Thanks
I second that.
@Elrondolio Thank you for taking the time to post detailed and informative review.
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Elrondolio wrote: Thought I'd post a bit of a review.

Received the soundbar last night and the rear wireless kit this afternoon. Quite pleased. Doesn't really compare to a good separates setup like our 7.2.4 Denon-Klipsch-SVS kit in the family room or our 9.2.4 in our home theater but this isn't supposed to. For $650 plus tax (soundbar plus rear kit) this has excellent separation for a soundbar, it can push quite a bit of air and has a nice, deep low end. The tweeters are a touch sharp, the mids are a tad muddy and the sub is just a bit boomy but I am pleasantly surprised how far soundbars have come in the past decade or so. The hookup and setup was straight forward and relatively easy with no real issues as the sub and rears synced and keep connection easily in my space. Having no wires run across the room is a real boon for us in this bedroom. Before re-arranging our bedroom to fit a new massage chair we had an older non-Atmos Denon receiver and a 5.1 Monoprice bookshelf setup. Getting rid of the wire runs and having wireless sub and rears (although those rear speakers are indeed connected via speaker cable to the wireless rear receiver box) is a very good solution for what we wanted. Doing the sub crawl for optimal sub placement was a lot easier without thick cabling to the sub as well.

As a bonus, once you add and sync the soundbar up via the SmartThings app and run the firmware upgrade, it was a simple task to add it to Google Home. I can successfully control the bar with voice via Google Assistant devices throughout the house, from turning on, setting volume, switching inputs, etc. So, it's confirmed that this fully supports Google Home devices, not just Amazon Alexa.

Ran some DTS:X and Atmos demo material through the system (highly recommend the Dolby Atmos Demo Disc 2015). Had my Shield Pro 2019 direct connected through HDMI and the soundbar decodes DTS:X and Atmos via MKV and M2TS in both TrueHD and Dolby Digital Plus streams perfectly while correctly passing Dolby Vision and HDR10 to the TV. Streamed some Netflix (The Witcher) and Amazon Prime (Jack Ryan) and DD+ Atmos streams were properly decoded while sending Dolby Vision correctly as well. The rear speakers are surprisingly full for their size and the system has the capability to get uncomfortably loud at full volumes but with absolutely no distortion, so the drivers and amp are well matched (I demoed at a reasonable 30 out of 100 volume level for most material). I used a sound pressure meter to set the center, front top and rear levels as well as the sub to blend well together with the front left and rights. Tweaked the EQ a bit via SmartThings to even out some of the harshness and add a bit of depth to the low end. The upfiring Atmos speakers and the rears need to be set quite high to be mostly effective (4-5) but doing so adds to the slight harshness on the highend in the front soundstage. Worth the trade-off, however, as with the right material the reflected Atmos effects can be quite realistic (eg: Unfold and Horizons Atmos trailers, Unbroken, Mad Max: Fury Road, etc movies). These Atmos reflective speakers are pretty good when a plane is flying overhead, for instance, but mostly expand the front soundstage with most Atmos material instead of hearing distinct effects placement. It's a good trade-off to cutting holes in your ceiling to mount overheads, of course.

Loved the final battle of Avengers: End Game and the showdown in the desert with Rey and Kylo in Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker as the overhead Atmos effects were quite effective and the rears held up with aplomb. The sub in this system is very capable with a ton of low-end capabilities but not quite down to chest thumping in the subsonic. Was very happy how it blends with the rears, particularly, as thats a tall order for such small drivers. I enabled "Surround" mode on some music and stereo TV shows but don't prefer it... I've never liked matrix effects and that continues on this system. "Standard" will be my preferred mode for non-Atmos-DTS:X material (where, thankfully, all matrix effects are disabled).

As a $1,150 sound setup at retail I'd say it would have been just average and overpriced. At the $650 I paid, however, this is absolutely worth it and punches above its price. Overall I'd give it a solid 7 to 8 out of 10 compared to all soundbar setups I've listened to before... but some of those better ones range upwards of $2,000. At $500 for the bar itself and $160 for the wireless rear kit: compared to other $500-650 setups I'd rate it even higher, a solid 9 out of 10. Just wish its highs weren't the tad harsh they are and wish the mids were slightly less muddled (not terrible in either circumstance, just not perfect). Also wish it came with built in room correction software, akin to Audessey, like some competing soundbars do. Having to use a sound pressure level and tweak the EQ manually isn't the end of the world but this could have been handled mostly automatically with a pack-in mic and support. Those are minor complaints, however, specifically at this price point.

Very pleased personally and I think most of you will be too. The HW-Q7CR was well worth it and I'd highly recommend anyone who purchased it pick up the wireless rear kit... it completes this system and is a must have if you watch a lot of movies. All the best!
@Elrondolio and others: Please feel free to chime in. I need your advice as to how I can make the most use out of the HW-Q7CR which got delivered tonight. I did not buy the wireless rear kit yet but in due time.

The TV that I currently have is Vizio M65-E0 (believe it is from 2016). I have xbox one S (bought in 2017) and amazon 4K firestick. As I previously mentioned that I have Vizio S3651-E0 which is connected to the tv via optical and I understand connecting the new sound bar will result is loss of sound quality.

On that note, how do you recommend me to connect the devices. I believe that I may need a 4K switch if I want to connect the two sources via sound bar HDMI input. Then, from the soundbar I will run the HDMI cable from the eArc port to the TV's HDMI arc port. Unfortunately, that is the only port which supports HDR while rest of the HDMI ports on the tv is 1.4.

I am going to setup the sound bar tomorrow so please feel free to chime in. What worries is I read on some forums that my tv is too old and may not be able to get the atmos to work. Since black friday is around the corner, I may decide to pick up LG 77 C9 or CX but I would like to avoid this route. Thanks again for your help guys.
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FaisalS831999 wrote: @Elrondolio and others: Please feel free to chime in. I need your advice as to how I can make the most use out of the HW-Q7CR which got delivered tonight. I did not buy the wireless rear kit yet but in due time.

The TV that I currently have is Vizio M65-E0 (believe it is from 2016). I have xbox one S (bought in 2017) and amazon 4K firestick. As I previously mentioned that I have Vizio S3651-E0 which is connected to the tv via optical and I understand connecting the new sound bar will result is loss of sound quality.

On that note, how do you recommend me to connect the devices. I believe that I may need a 4K switch if I want to connect the two sources via sound bar HDMI input. Then, from the soundbar I will run the HDMI cable from the eArc port to the TV's HDMI arc port. Unfortunately, that is the only port which supports HDR while rest of the HDMI ports on the tv is 1.4.

I am going to setup the sound bar tomorrow so please feel free to chime in. What worries is I read on some forums that my tv is too old and may not be able to get the atmos to work. Since black friday is around the corner, I may decide to pick up LG 77 C9 or CX but I would like to avoid this route. Thanks again for your help guys.
Well, you have a couple options.

Since your M65 has one HDMI 2.0a port that supports ARC you should definitely use that port to connect to the soundbar. Then pick the component you use the most to watch shows and movies with (Xbox One S or 4K firestick - I'd personally choose the firestick) and plug that directly in to the soundbars HDMI IN. That way you can get full compressed *and* uncompressed audio support through your soundbar's built-in decoder (including TrueHD Atmos and DTS:X if you stream any local files to your firestick via Plex, etc and Dolby Digital+ Atmos streams from apps) and the soundbar will still pass through the Dolby Vision or HDR10 video signal to your TV. All of your TV's built in apps will still be displayed in Dolby Vision and stream out Dolby Digital+ Atmos over ARC where supported (Amazon Prime - Jack Ryan etc or Netflix - The Witcher etc if your TV apps support this).

As for the other component, you are already clearly hooking one of these up to your TV using one of the HDMI 1.4 ports so you could continue to do so (say, your Xbox One S). Being connected to HDMI 1.4 will preclude you watching that component with Dolby Vision or HDR10 and you won't be able to play *uncompressed* signals through it to your soundbar... but, and this is key, you'll still be able to set it to 4K resolution (30 fps max on HDMI 1.4) without HDR and it'll still stream Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS 5.1 to your soundbar over its HDMI 2.0a ARC connection. If you only play games on your Xbox and don't mind missing out on Dolby Vision, that setup should work for you without buying anything since Dolby Digital 5.1 is still a good surround format for gaming.

If you want *both* (or more) of your components connected through your soundbar so you can watch / play in Dolby Vision or HDR10 while supporting uncompressed audio (TrueHD Atmos, etc) you'd need to purchase an HDMI switch box or a new TV. You can find HDMI 2 switch boxes with a remote in the $40-60 range, sometimes a bit less. If you go this route you want to make sure the HDMI switch box supports full HDMI 2 with 18 Gbps speeds, support for 4K@60, 10bit 4:4:4 for Dolby Digital and HDR10. Something like this one should do you (not a recommendation as I don't use a switch box but it supports all the features you'd need). If you have a Logitech Harmony remote (such as this one or this one when they go on sale) it'd help you combine all the remotes you would need for your system down to 1... this could be of benefit with a switchbox remote, soundbar remote, tv remote, etc.

As for tomorrow... I'd go the first route. That'd at least get you setup with your Firestick and streaming great quality files or streams in TrueHD Atmos and / or DDPlus Atmos while still getting Dolby Vision to your television. Firestick -> Soundbar HDMI IN -> Soundbar HDMI OUT (ARC) -> TV HDMI 2.0a IN (ARC). Xbox One S HDMI OUT -> TV HDMI 1.4 IN. Make sure you've got good HDMI 2.0 cables as well for all your connections, ones rate for 18Gbps (in the future you'll need 48Gpbs cables for HDMI 2.1 connections). Hope that helps!
Last edited by Elrondolio on Oct 17th, 2020 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
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anyone looking to sell theirs in the gta at cost, dm me.
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Elrondolio wrote: Well, you have a couple options.

Since your M65 has one HDMI 2.0a port that supports ARC you should definitely use that port to connect to the soundbar. Then pick the component you use the most to watch shows and movies with (Xbox One S or 4K firestick - I'd personally choose the firestick) and plug that directly in to the soundbars HDMI IN. That way you can get full compressed *and* uncompressed audio support through your soundbar's built-in decoder (including TrueHD Atmos and DTS:X if you stream any local files to your firestick via Plex, etc and Dolby Digital+ Atmos streams from apps) and the soundbar will still pass through the Dolby Vision or HDR10 video signal to your TV. All of your TV's built in apps will still be displayed in Dolby Vision and stream out Dolby Digital+ Atmos over ARC where supported (Amazon Prime - Jack Ryan etc or Netflix - The Witcher etc if your TV apps support this).

As for the other component, you are already clearly hooking one of these up to your TV using one of the HDMI 1.4 ports so you could continue to do so (say, your Xbox One S). Being connected to HDMI 1.4 will preclude you watching that component with Dolby Vision or HDR10 and you won't be able to play *uncompressed* signals through it to your soundbar... but, and this is key, you'll still be able to set it to 4K resolution (30 fps max on HDMI 1.4) without HDR and it'll still stream Dolby Digital 5.1 or DTS 5.1 to your soundbar over its HDMI 2.0a ARC connection. If you only play games on your Xbox and don't mind missing out on Dolby Vision, that setup should work for you without buying anything since Dolby Digital 5.1 is still a good surround format for gaming.

If you want *both* (or more) of your components connected through your soundbar so you can watch / play in Dolby Vision or HDR10 while supporting uncompressed audio (TrueHD Atmos, etc) you'd need to purchase an HDMI switch box or a new TV. You can find HDMI 2 switch boxes with a remote in the $40-60 range, sometimes a bit less. If you go this route you want to make sure the HDMI switch box supports full HDMI 2 with 18 Gbps speeds, support for 4K@60, 10bit 4:4:4 for Dolby Digital and HDR10. Something like this one should do you (not a recommendation as I don't use a switch box but it supports all the features you'd need). If you have a Logitech Harmony remote (such as this one or this one when they go on sale) it'd help you combine all the remotes you would need for your system down to 1... this could be of benefit with a switchbox remote, soundbar remote, tv remote, etc.

As for tomorrow... I'd go the first route. That'd at least get you setup with your Firestick and streaming great quality files or streams in TrueHD Atmos and / or DDPlus Atmos while still getting Dolby Vision to your television. Firestick -> Soundbar HDMI IN -> Soundbar HDMI OUT (ARC) -> TV HDMI 2.0a IN (ARC). Xbox One S HDMI OUT -> TV HDMI 1.4 IN. Make sure you've got good HDMI 2.0 cables as well for all your connections, ones rate for 18Gbps (in the future you'll need 48Gpbs cables for HDMI 2.1 connections). Hope that helps!
Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I am not much of a gamer. I had picked up xbox one s primarily to use it as a bluray player. I will keep you posted. Once again thank you for finding this amazing deal and providing in depth information about the product. :)
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Jan 30, 2017
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Elrondolio wrote: I also have a Hisense this is setup on in the bedroom, the Q8 series. As for the update on the soundbar, there are two methods:

1a) Install Samsung SmartThings app on your phone
1b) See page 22 in the manual (link in the first post) on how to connect your soundbar to SmartThings via WiFi
1c) Once you have SmartThings and your soundbar connected together, follow this guide:
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00082755/

2a) You can alternatively update the firmware by downloading the correct version in zip format from Samsung as linked in the first post (for the HW-Q7CR), unzipping it to a USB stick then plugging that USB stick in to your soundbar. See these same instructions on how to do so:
https://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00082755/

Once you've updated to the latest firmware you can follow the instructions in the manual to get Alexa working with your soundbar or follow the instructions below to get Google Home connected to your soundbar via SmartThings:

How to connect Google Assistant with SmartThings
https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-u ... martThings

As for if you should update the firmware: yes. While both of our Hisense TV's have HDMI 2.0b ports and not 2.1 needed to support eARC, the firmware doesn't just upgrade the standard ARC to eARC (which admittedly will be very important in the future with newer TVs and the newest consoles coming out soon, etc) but it also fixes some bug issues from previous releases, such as wireless connection to sub and rears stability, etc. I'd recommend it... but you don't have to if you don't want, of course.

Best of luck!
Thank you! People like you really add value to forums like this. I appreciate your time and effort to helping me!
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Does the rear speaker kit come with stands or do they have to be wall mounted?
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davi6030 wrote: Does the rear speaker kit come with stands or do they have to be wall mounted?
I am pretty sure you will need to buy speaker stands. This is based on the pictures that I saw on amazon.
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davi6030 wrote: Does the rear speaker kit come with stands or do they have to be wall mounted?
FaisalS831999 wrote: I am pretty sure you will need to buy speaker stands. This is based on the pictures that I saw on amazon.
@FaisalS831999 is right, the rear speaker kit comes with the two rear speakers, wireless hub to attach them to, speaker wire for each speaker, and the power cord for the hub. There is no mounting hardware included but each speaker does have a mounting hole on the back and standing nubs on the bottom.
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If anyone doesn't have access to Dolby's or DTS's Demo Discs from any tradeshows, etc: here are links to some Dolby Atmos and Cinema as well as DTS:X, IMAX, THX and other movie trailers you can download to help demo your new audio and video equipment. In this case make sure you play this back through a device that is hooked up to the soundbars HDMI directly that can properly send the TrueHD Atmos and Dolby Digital+ Atmos or DTS:X streams to your soundbar (Nvidia Shield, most devices that support a Plex client or Kodi, etc). Playing these through standard ARC will not send the uncompressed TrueHD Atmos or DTS:X soundtrack but you can switch audio tracks in these and send the DD+ Atmos stream where available (TV's Plex app streaming from a laptop, etc). If your TV is connected through eARC and it natively supports the Plex app with full audio capabilities you could connect your TV to the soundbar via eARC and it should work fine.

There are some really good demos here to give your new setup a workout... a few of my favorites from Dolby:

Dolby Cinema Universe (Natures Fury)
Amaze
Horizon
Leaf
Unfold

and more from DTS, etc. Enjoy!

https://thedigitaltheater.com/tools/
https://thedigitaltheater.com/dolby-trailers/
https://thedigitaltheater.com/dts-trailers/
https://thedigitaltheater.com/imax-pre-show-trailers/
https://thedigitaltheater.com/thx-trailers/
https://thedigitaltheater.com/master-trailer-list/
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the connections mentioned here is if the TV does not support eARC...
if the TV has eARC, I can hook up the soundbar directly to the TV and will get the appropriate format (of course if the source is ATMOS as well)...
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FaisalS831999 wrote: Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I am not much of a gamer. I had picked up xbox one s primarily to use it as a bluray player. I will keep you posted. Once again thank you for finding this amazing deal and providing in depth information about the product. :)
@Elrondolio : Just wanted to give you an update. As I was setting up the speaker system, the soundbar was showing DIN: Arc but once I upgraded the firmware it longer detects Arc. All it says now is DIN on the sound bar. The amazon fire 4k stick was supposed to be delivered today but it appears the building security misplaced the package. As a result I connected the Xbox One S(HDMI Out port) to HDMI IN behind the sound bar. I connected another HDMI high speed cable from HDMI Arc port behind the sound bar to the Vizio M65 HDMI Arc port (HDMI 1). When I selected HDMI 1 as an input source, the tv says cannot detect the source "Confirm the source is on".

Prior to doing the firmware update, the vizio smartcast app was able to pass the audio through the soundbar. I tried doing the factory reset but I guess once the firmware has been upgraded, there is no way to revert back.

I really want to get the HDMI arc port to work but if I am unable to, then I will have to resort to optical input. I am going to take a break for today and attempt to troubleshoot tomorrow morning. Once again thank you for your help.

Regards,
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Apr 20, 2017
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Upon further investigation, it appears that there is an issue with CEC Arc hand shaking. I will reach out to Vizio and Samsung and see if they can help me.

Thanks,
Faisal
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FaisalS831999 wrote: @Elrondolio : Just wanted to give you an update. As I was setting up the speaker system, the soundbar was showing DIN: Arc but once I upgraded the firmware it longer detects Arc. All it says now is DIN on the sound bar. The amazon fire 4k stick was supposed to be delivered today but it appears the building security misplaced the package. As a result I connected the Xbox One S(HDMI Out port) to HDMI IN behind the sound bar. I connected another HDMI high speed cable from HDMI Arc port behind the sound bar to the Vizio M65 HDMI Arc port (HDMI 1). When I selected HDMI 1 as an input source, the tv says cannot detect the source "Confirm the source is on".

Prior to doing the firmware update, the vizio smartcast app was able to pass the audio through the soundbar. I tried doing the factory reset but I guess once the firmware has been upgraded, there is no way to revert back.

I really want to get the HDMI arc port to work but if I am unable to, then I will have to resort to optical input. I am going to take a break for today and attempt to troubleshoot tomorrow morning. Once again thank you for your help.

Regards,
Make sure your TV's input is set to display the HDMI port that is ARC enabled, the one you plugged in to the soundbar (HDMI 1, 2, 3, 4?). Then make sure when you turn on your soundbar you press the upper left source button on its remote multiple times to toggle through the soundbar 4 inputs (HDMI, WiFi, BT or Bluetooth, D.IN or TV ARC). To display your Xbox connected to the soundbar's HDMI input, choose the soundbar's HDMI source via the remote. To display your built-in TV apps such as Netflix, etc, choose the soundbar's D.IN source via the remote. In both circumstances your TV's selected source should still be the ARC HDMI.

CEC can be buggy for sure and you'll need to make sure it's enabled on *every* device in the chain, which in your current setup, is the Xbox and the TV as the soundbar has it enabled by default. If you can't get it to switch inputs on all of them correctly you'll need to manually change inputs for now until you can get some help from Vizio. I'd make sure to visit the CEC settings in both components to make sure it's enabled correctly, of course.
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Elrondolio wrote: I would love to hear your opinion on the Q7CR when you get yours in and have demoed it for a while. Don't hesitate to return it if it doesn't fit your needs / expectations... that's what's great about ordering from Amazon. Please come back and share your experience and what you decide if you feel like it.
Update- received the soundbar yesterday and set it up. Disclaimer- my current TV (to be upgraded in a few months) is 10 years old so no ARC connections. Thankfully it had an optical out which I used to connect to the soundbar. Setup was simple although connecting to wifi took a few tries. Firmware is updated to the latest version 1010.5.

The soundbar sounded really good although I’m probably not getting the full effect through an optical connection. The bass and general amplification and clarity of sound made our small family room fill up with sound. The test will be in the new house where the room is larger and ceilings are 10 feet, hoping for a similar outcome. It also looks fairly clean and unassuming. The sub is larger than I would’ve liked but nice that it’s wireless and can be tucked away in a discrete corner. @Elrondolio you will be happy to hear my wife approved of the sound to agree to a set of rear speakers so that counts as a success for the Q7CR in my books! Considering the rears have to be wired to the wireless receiver, that may be a problem as the back wall is half open. Is there a set of rear speakers that is truly wireless without the need for wiring up to a receiver?

Also, is there a better test I can run with the soundbar other than optical out from TV to soundbar? I have an older Apple TV which has an optical out or I can connect to my phone via Bluetooth and play something off YouTube if that will be able to push higher quality codecs through to test? Yesterday I had Apple TV connected via HDMI (probably 1.4) to my TV playing some YouTube videos and optical audio out to the soundbar, sounded good but likely losing a lot over HDMI 1.4 and optical audio. I have a chromecast as well but will also be connected vis HDMI 1.4. Other option is optical out from Apple TV to the Q7CR for the audio and Apple TV to TV over HDMI for the video.

Still need to test Google home and Alexa. Is there a mic built into the sound bar to activate these assistants?

Thanks.
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@callmebob:

Good deal, glad your wife approves... WAF is the most important hurdle in life ;).

Connecting via optical just means you won't be getting "native" effects channels via uncompressed TrueHD Atmos or DTS:X streams. Specifically, the two up-firing speakers built in to your bar will be inactive. You can enable the "Surround" matrix mode via your soundbar remote, but this will give you "fake" effect channel sounds instead of how the soundtrack engineers designed for those effects. Via optical connection you'll still get true, if compressed, 5.1 surround without having to enable matix modes via Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 soundtracks. These should sound very good on this system.

It is, however, best to enable full TrueHD Atmos and DTS:X format support (as well as Atmos over DD+ streams) by directly connecting your source component to your soundbar via HDMI. Even if you don't have ARC, connecting your Apple TV via HDMI directly to your soundbar's HDMI IN, then connecting your soundbar's HDMI OUT to your TV's HDMI IN will allow your soundbar to natively process any sound formats it supports, such as TrueHD or DTS:X, while sending along the video portion of the program to your TV. You didn't specify the model of Apple TV you have but newer ones fully support these sound formats. If you are planning on *streaming only* over the internet instead of also playing back local MKV or M2TS files via a Plex Media server or Kodi, etc then you might want to pick up the new Chromecast with Google TV. It fully supports Dolby Atmos over Dolby Digital Plus via Netflix, Amazon Prime, etc as well as HDR in the form of Dolby Vision for when you get your new TV and it's available with a 6 month subscription to Netfix for $120. That means it's actual price is around $39 bucks if you remove the cost of your existing or new Netflix subscription for 6 months. I'm just recommending this as I don't know how old your Apple TV is and if your existing older TV supports Atmos via any of its built-in apps such as Netflix (if it has any).

Regardless, whatever source you choose, whether that's Apple TV, Chromecast with Google TV, an Nvidia Shield, etc, you should definitely hook it directly up to your soundbar via HDMI IN then hook your soundbar up to the TV via HDMI OUT... at least until you upgrade your TV in a few months and hopefully get one that supports the full eARC spec instead of just ARC. Once your component is connected to your soundbar directly you can enjoy the full soundtrack formats it can support, such as Atmos over TrueHD, etc. Don't forget: HDMI v1.3 and up fully support the full uncompressed audio formats such as TrueHD that you're trying to enable.

No, there are no fully wireless rear speakers available in the Samsung soundbar lineup that I'm aware of, certainly not for the Q7CR/Q70R/T, Q80 / Q800 or Q90 / Q900. The wireless hub can be plugged in anywhere along the back of your room where you have an outlet but you'll indeed need to run the speaker wires from that hub to the actual rear speakers on each side. Picking up a couple speaker stands where you can thread the speaker wire up the middle to the speakers looks pretty tidy. You can also use paintable wire concealers like these to help hide the wires along a baseboard, etc or use cable zip tie mounts like these, or a combination of both. At least you don't have to run wires from the front of your TV space (like from a receiver or your soundbar) all across the side walls to get to the rears like a traditional setup.

You can also setup a Plex Media server on your PC temporarily (or permanently) then download a bunch of the above Dolby Atmos and DTS demos and test files I linked to earlier and add it to your Plex server for sharing. Then you'd install the Plex client, if avialable, on your Apple TV that's hooked up to your soundbar via HDMI (then soundbar to TV via HDMI) to play these demo files back. These demos sound amazing but the most important part is it verifies your system is working well with Atmos via TrueHD or Dolby Digital Plus, DTS:X and other formats. It's a bit involved setting a Plex Media server up, however, so thats up to you.
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callmebob wrote: Still need to test Google home and Alexa. Is there a mic built into the sound bar to activate these assistants?
Thanks.
Forgot this part... no, there is no built in Echo or Home in this soundbar. Instead you need a seperate Echo or other Alexa device or a Nest Audio or other Google Home device. If you have one of these it's relatively simple to have them connect to your soundbar for full voice control. Don't forget as well: Spotify Connect and other services are supported so you can directly play your Spotify music on this soundbar as well via WiFi. See the manual for setup.
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Dec 28, 2008
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I wish I bought this. I can’t stand my Sony x9000f for movies as there’s no center speaker. Wife can’t stand it either. I’m always changing the audio modes to get better dialogue. I use it with a new Samsung tv with eARC.

I’m going to return the Sony to Costco this week. I don’t think soundbars have the 90 day return policy as TVs (I hope anyway)

I hope they have the sale again for Black Friday. :)

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