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TRONXY X5SA 3D Printer $259.99

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[OP]
Newbie
Apr 21, 2012
47 posts
94 upvotes
West Kelowna

[Amazon.ca] TRONXY X5SA 3D Printer $259.99

TRONXY X5SA 3D Printer, Dual Z Axis Lead Screws and Large Print Size 330x330x400mm DIY Kit Core XY 3D Printer.

Not the highest quality printer out there, but good value for a larger format printer. Will require fettling and greater mechanical understanding to assemble and maintain than Ender 3 and clones, but with such will give similar quality at a larger format and quicker print speed (>20% reduction in print times, in my experience).

If you print with lots of retractions, this printer may not be the best for you.
Last edited by Mars2012 on Aug 26th, 2021 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: removed link because Amazon seller only has 66 lifetime ratings
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If you're looking for more options, check out RFD Reviews' list of the best 3D printers!
15 replies
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Feb 11, 2007
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Good price if you're experienced with 3D printers and don't mind upgrading it to make it work well.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
[OP]
Newbie
Apr 21, 2012
47 posts
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West Kelowna
engineered wrote: Good price if you're experienced with 3D printers and don't mind upgrading it to make it work well.

Yes, that review is a little out-of-date though. I have the same printer as I posted above and I got it working much more easily than he did, but it is not a printer for beginners, nor for those without an aptitude for fettling.
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nsimon wrote: Yes, that review is a little out-of-date though. I have the same printer as I posted above and I got it working much more easily than he did, but it is not a printer for beginners, nor for those without an aptitude for fettling.
I agree. Have you seen an updated review around? I'm considering it, but wouldn't buy with the issues in that video. If many are improved, I might go for it.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
Deal Addict
May 14, 2005
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Markham
engineered wrote: I agree. Have you seen an updated review around? I'm considering it, but wouldn't buy with the issues in that video. If many are improved, I might go for it.
i dont think much has changed to be honest... if you join the Tronxy facebook groups.. most people are buying it just for the frame and dump hundreds of dollars into it to "upgrade"/"fix" it to no end... getting it to print is probably not the problem.. trying to perfect a print and make everything accurate is the hard part.. especially true when you are trying to get multiple parts to fit together and you are off by 0.2mm or something

going into 3d printing as a hobby and expect any brand of printer to just work problem free for a long time is unrealistic... but i think some printer such as this one, requires more tinkering than others....

my Creality CR10 V3 has been a work horse since day one.. only had to change the ptfe tube inside the heatsink once in the last 6 months..
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andyyuen wrote: i dont think much has changed to be honest... if you join the Tronxy facebook groups.. most people are buying it just for the frame and dump hundreds of dollars into it to "upgrade"/"fix" it to no end... getting it to print is probably not the problem.. trying to perfect a print and make everything accurate is the hard part.. especially true when you are trying to get multiple parts to fit together and you are off by 0.2mm or something

going into 3d printing as a hobby and expect any brand of printer to just work problem free for a long time is unrealistic... but i think some printer such as this one, requires more tinkering than others....

my Creality CR10 V3 has been a work horse since day one.. only had to change the ptfe tube inside the heatsink once in the last 6 months..
My Ender 3 Pro has been pretty good to me for the past few years as well. Worked great out of the box after not too much calibration, but I eventually did some cheap upgrades after dozens of kg of filament. A larger corexy would be great, and I'm fine with tinkering, but I don't want to have to replace everything.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
[OP]
Newbie
Apr 21, 2012
47 posts
94 upvotes
West Kelowna
engineered wrote: I agree. Have you seen an updated review around? I'm considering it, but wouldn't buy with the issues in that video. If many are improved, I might go for it.
I haven't seen an updated review, and that particular review is for the Pro version (which at the time was the version with the silent steppers, now they both have such). I just remember watching that review after getting mine working and thinking to myself that it was much easier for me than it appeared for him. Getting the gantry square was actually no problem at all for me (just pull it against the back of the frame, and tighten, then adjust after attaching and tensioning the belts), and I honestly couldn't see how he was having any trouble working out how to make the belts work. It has been a while since I watched the review, but I am glad I did so only after I had it up and running or I might have not bought it, or may even have made some of the same mistakes in assembly.
To be clear, I have an old Ender 3, modified to have ABL, a better cooling setup, and adjustable tensioning for the belts, and it has been more work for me to get working correctly.
A few tips, if you do get it:
0. Read the instructions and make sure you're following each step perfectly. It takes time and is easy to put a part in the wrong way around.
1. The gantry will be out of square after you install it and apply tension from the belts. Print a test, work out a rough idea how out of square it is and after removing tension from the gantry, adjust it to compensate. Then reattach the belts and test again. It's not hard to get it spot on after a couple of iterations. Getting the belts equally tensioned is a bit of a black art, but they should make a bit of a twang if plucked. You may need to re-tension after the first print or two.
2. Use the auto levelling (after you have heated the bed to the appropriate temp) to get an idea of how much the sides are out, and then with the motors turned off, adjust by turning one side's screw, and re run the auto levelling. It's easy with 2 to 3 minutes work to get it very close, better than you need to print.
3. Adjust the heights of the pulleys to keep the belt roughly parallel. This is really only possible from the motor end, but the motor's as provided will not be properly adjusted.
4. The part cooling isn't great, so try some of the options on thingiverse. It's basically the same as a stock Ender 3 in terms of efficacy.
5. Octoprint requires a plugin (https://github.com/OctoPrint/OctoPrint-FixCBDFirmware), but otherwise works okay. It seems to slow down the actual printing though.
6. Retractions are a pain (I go with at least 6mm due to the length of the bowden tube). Maybe replacing the bowden tube with a Capricorn one will help, but I haven't tried this out.
Member
Dec 2, 2006
252 posts
167 upvotes
Chilliwack
I'd love to get a 3D printer... But I just can't justify buying one because I can't think of anything I'd print out on it to justify buying it. It would be more of a toy for me and that's an expensive toy (both to buy and for materials).
'Twixt Light and Darkness... SShadow
Sr. Member
Feb 2, 2006
565 posts
439 upvotes
I just finished converting my X5SA Pro to Voron 2.4 but the printer was pretty solid before I converted it.. After a few upgrades anyways.

The main thing with these printers is the bed goes out of level as soon as you remove power to the motors. Highly recommend keeping the 2 axises in sync with a belt or by replacing the board with one with 5+ stepper drivers like an skr 1.4, skr pro v1.2, btt octopus, etc (anything other than the Spider which is a piece of sh*t)i and using some sort of z tilt adjust at the beginning of each print which can be found in Klipper or Marlin.
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Oct 11, 2004
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Turge wrote: I just finished converting my X5SA Pro to Voron 2.4 but the printer was pretty solid before I converted it.. After a few upgrades anyways.

The main thing with these printers is the bed goes out of level as soon as you remove power to the motors. Highly recommend keeping the 2 axises in sync with a belt or by replacing the board with one with 5+ stepper drivers like an skr 1.4, skr pro v1.2, btt octopus, etc (anything other than the Spider which is a piece of sh*t)i and using some sort of z tilt adjust at the beginning of each print which can be found in Klipper or Marlin.
Would you recommend this or the Pro for the Voron 2.4 conversion? Or would you buy a kit from China?

In terms of conversion, how much is still left of the Tronxy? $260 worth of stuff left or not?
Sr. Member
Feb 2, 2006
565 posts
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temporary user wrote: Would you recommend this or the Pro for the Voron 2.4 conversion? Or would you buy a kit from China?

In terms of conversion, how much is still left of the Tronxy? $260 worth of stuff left or not?
Good questions. No, sure if there's $260 worth. This type of conversion is something you do when you mod your printer so much that you pass the point of no return. I did it twice (also converted an Ender 5).

I had installed the Afterburner and basically redid the entire electronics when I replaced and relocated the board. I did get a deal on the pro ($330) but I'm sure had I decided to sell it, it would only have fetched $200 or so.

When i had the entire printer stripped down to just the frame, looking at the pile of parts, I definitely questioned by decision. Once I was done though, I definitely didn't regret my decisions.

I had to buy a few extra extrusions to replace the pro's top rails so the non-pro would definitely be cheaper unless of course you can sell the leftover parts, which is nearly impossible.

I had installed a 750W heater on the bed with an ssr. I kept it for now but will most likely replace it with an 8mm aluminium mic6 plate once I can source one for a decent price.

If I was to build a new one, I'd do it from scratch and cut my own extrusions and source all parts myself like I did. It would definitely end up being much cheaper.
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Oct 11, 2004
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Montreal, Qc
Turge wrote: Good questions. No, sure if there's $260 worth. This type of conversion is something you do when you mod your printer so much that you pass the point of no return. I did it twice (also converted an Ender 5).

I had installed the Afterburner and basically redid the entire electronics when I replaced and relocated the board. I did get a deal on the pro ($330) but I'm sure had I decided to sell it, it would only have fetched $200 or so.

When i had the entire printer stripped down to just the frame, looking at the pile of parts, I definitely questioned by decision. Once I was done though, I definitely didn't regret my decisions.

I had to buy a few extra extrusions to replace the pro's top rails so the non-pro would definitely be cheaper unless of course you can sell the leftover parts, which is nearly impossible.

I had installed a 750W heater on the bed with an ssr. I kept it for now but will most likely replace it with an 8mm aluminium mic6 plate once I can source one for a decent price.

If I was to build a new one, I'd do it from scratch and cut my own extrusions and source all parts myself like I did. It would definitely end up being much cheaper.
Thanks for your reply. I guess I will source the parts myself instead of getting this. I'm still unsure if I should go with a Voron or a Hevort. I still find some of these DIY printers as still being somewhat experimental.
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Nov 17, 2004
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I just bought one, I am planning to convert it to vzbot more or less, most of the parts can be reused for vzbot build. I already have a Voron 2.4 and 2x Prusa bed slingers.
I workout to get big so I can pickup bricks and ****.
Member
Feb 12, 2008
293 posts
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Scarborough
I tried the tronxy xy-2 pro but had quite a few difficulties with it, especially with miniatures. is it worth it to move to this or ender 3 max, or cr10v2/v3? Also considering the voxelab aquila as its similar in price. I would like the larger build platform to print cosplay but that would be a lot less. I like this price point.
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joe77 wrote: I tried the tronxy xy-2 pro but had quite a few difficulties with it, especially with miniatures. is it worth it to move to this or ender 3 max, or cr10v2/v3? Also considering the voxelab aquila as its similar in price. I would like the larger build platform to print cosplay but that would be a lot less. I like this price point.
If you wan to do minatures you should get a resin printer.
If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
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Jul 22, 2014
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joe77 wrote: I tried the tronxy xy-2 pro but had quite a few difficulties with it, especially with miniatures. is it worth it to move to this or ender 3 max, or cr10v2/v3? Also considering the voxelab aquila as its similar in price. I would like the larger build platform to print cosplay but that would be a lot less. I like this price point.
I went with an e5+ over those giant bed slingers.

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