[Amazon.ca] UBIQUITI ER-X Router, Black, $ 59.99

I am using HikVision I bought from Alibaba about 5 years ago. They have been rock solid. No firmware updates though as they are grey market cameras. There are so many options now though. Lots of cheap off brands available now. Just black hole them on your firewall so they cannot call home and life is good.

EEE2 wrote: ↑ If I may ask you what camera system you using. I recently discovered one of my poe cameras firmware is unbearable and company will not provide updates nor can I load third party. So I need to replace. I did purchase the Amazon wifi cams. But I feel alot more comfortable using the existing cat6+Poe runs.

It's not that the ER-X doesn't do passive 24v POE, it's the small wattage PS in comparison to the ER-X SFP 50 watt PS. You can plug in multiple AP (or other POE units [cams] to the SFP without the need for any additional POE injectors, with the ER-X it's not going to power more than one POE without running out of juice. The ER-X comes with a 12 volt 0.5 amp PS while the ER-X SFP comes with a 24 volt 2.5 amp PS.
For small simple installs the ER-X is definitely going to be okay, but if down the road a person starts thinking about any type of POE devices (security Cams or another AP for better coverage) then the ER-X SFP more than pays for itself IMO.

goozy1 wrote: ↑ Actually the "regular" ER-X can now do 24v Poe. I have mine powering my AC-LR directly

joey003 wrote: ↑ Thanks! In all honesty I hadn’t checked any of them out over the past few years and I felt like Ubiquiti was a common and trusted commercial type of brand for this type of use. Appreciate the feedback.

This comes as big shock to me. Thanks for sharing.

Can this puppy power a Nanostation or Litebeam?

Timetripper wrote: ↑ It's not that the ER-X doesn't do passive 24v POE, it's the small wattage PS in comparison to the ER-X SFP 50 watt PS. You can plug in multiple AP (or other POE units [cams] to the SFP without the need for any additional POE injectors, with the ER-X it's not going to power more than one POE without running out of juice. The ER-X comes with a 12 volt 0.5 amp PS while the ER-X SFP comes with a 24 volt 2.5 amp PS.
For small simple installs the ER-X is definitely going to be okay, but if down the road a person starts thinking about any type of POE devices (security Cams or another AP for better coverage) then the ER-X SFP more than pays for itself IMO.

I was debating between the two when i purchased a few years back, I went with ER-X not only coz it was cheaper but passive PoE seemed useless at the time. It seems useless even today unless paired with Unfi APs, I have a PoE+ switch for my APs and cameras as most PoE now use the 802.11af/at standard including the unifi APs

theburner wrote: ↑ I haven't done this myself, but I have been running OpenWRT on one for around a year and it's been rock solid. Haven't needed a single reboot.

You may also want to check into Wireguard if you're looking at maximum throughput. Here are some comparison benchmarks on the Edgerouters:

https://an.undulating.space/post/181227 ... enchmarks/

Wireguard is faster than OpenVPN but the problem is it's still a work in progress (very plausible there are insecurities) and few commercial VPNs support it.

Anybody have any idea how this would work will with bell fibe and orbi setup

thesubmitter wrote: ↑ Anybody have any idea how this would work will with bell fibe and orbi setup

Get the SFP model, move the SFP from bell home hub to that, use the orbi. More or less what I have setup

AstonM wrote: ↑ Get the SFP model, move the SFP from bell home hub to that, use the orbi. More or less what I have setup

I have a RFD favour to ask here. I’ve tried a couple times over the years and spent hours trying to figure out how to run UNIFI AP on my Bell Fibe (have bell fibe internet and TV). I’ve given up several times as it’s beyond my capabilities, I’m tech savvy but a networking nube. So, in my ultimate stubbornness and desire to experience all that is great with the Ubiquiti wifi I’m going after it again.

What I have:
I have 2 UNIFI AP AC PRO units

The goal
Get rid of the HomeHub3000 and get the cheapest UNIFI router to replace it. Run bulletproof wifi throughout the house and into my backyard/front yard

The challenge
Get TV to work along with internet without the HH3000

Question
Should I bother trying to replace my HH3000 or just put it in bridge mode and plug my switch into it with the two AP’s? What is the benefit of eliminating the HH300 (internet quality? Privacy? Security?

Is there anyone in Etobicoke willing to come by and set me up? I will pay for their time and offer cold refreshing beverages and snacks!

What you need is this unit instead of the one OP posted:

https://www.amazon.ca/UBIQUITI-ER-X-SFP ... B012X45WH6

I got rid of my HH3000 because I don't want bell to be able to snoop around my network.

Good luck!

Petro99 wrote: ↑ I have a RFD favour to ask here. I’ve tried a couple times over the years and spent hours trying to figure out how to run UNIFI AP on my Bell Fibe (have bell fibe internet and TV). I’ve given up several times as it’s beyond my capabilities, I’m tech savvy but a networking nube. So, in my ultimate stubbornness and desire to experience all that is great with the Ubiquiti wifi I’m going after it again.

What I have:
I have 2 UNIFI AP AC PRO units

The goal
Get rid of the HomeHub3000 and get the cheapest UNIFI router to replace it. Run bulletproof wifi throughout the house and into my backyard/front yard

The challenge
Get TV to work along with internet without the HH3000

Question
Should I bother trying to replace my HH3000 or just put it in bridge mode and plug my switch into it with the two AP’s? What is the benefit of eliminating the HH300 (internet quality? Privacy? Security?

Is there anyone in Etobicoke willing to come by and set me up? I will pay for their time and offer cold refreshing beverages and snacks!

Petro99 wrote: ↑ I have a RFD favour to ask here. I’ve tried a couple times over the years and spent hours trying to figure out how to run UNIFI AP on my Bell Fibe (have bell fibe internet and TV). I’ve given up several times as it’s beyond my capabilities, I’m tech savvy but a networking nube. So, in my ultimate stubbornness and desire to experience all that is great with the Ubiquiti wifi I’m going after it again.

What I have:
I have 2 UNIFI AP AC PRO units

The goal
Get rid of the HomeHub3000 and get the cheapest UNIFI router to replace it. Run bulletproof wifi throughout the house and into my backyard/front yard

The challenge
Get TV to work along with internet without the HH3000

Question
Should I bother trying to replace my HH3000 or just put it in bridge mode and plug my switch into it with the two AP’s? What is the benefit of eliminating the HH300 (internet quality? Privacy? Security?

Is there anyone in Etobicoke willing to come by and set me up? I will pay for their time and offer cold refreshing beverages and snacks!

I would highly recommend looking at dslreports forums for help with this. I have internet only so it’s a bit easier, but when I set mine up I believe there were some threads on doing this with tv as well.

Basically your home hub is a decent router, but this will enable less reboots, better security and more control.

Guest access page also requires a controller.

The problem with what you're saying is you are treating it like an iPhone or something, where having the latest internals matters. It does not. As long as it can route the traffic as required, it does not matter if it is a 5, 10, even 15 year old design. There is no advantage to "new internals".

MayorOfToronto wrote: ↑ The ER-X and ER3 Lite (same internals as the USG) are all extremely outdated and not worth more than $60.

You'd have to be insane or lack any knowledge of these devices to spend $150 on a USG....

Hoping they upgrade the USG with ER4 internals, though even that is dated now.

Also, the ER-X is a switch that can do routing. It's not a true router.

By the way, you do NOT need the UniFi controller to run 24/7. You ONLY need the controller to set things up or if you want to keep logs. Everything will work just fine with or without a controller running.

You can also set up a Raspberry Pi as a controller which can also double as a Pi-Hole. Cheaper, better, more options and functionality than their own controller.

MayorOfToronto wrote: ↑ You can also set up a Raspberry Pi as a controller which can also double as a Pi-Hole. Cheaper, better, more options and functionality than their own controller.

you went off the rails here. the reliability of a homemade appliance is poor compared to even the cheapest ubiquiti or mikrotik products on a bad day. reliability is the #1 requirement.

Petro99 wrote: ↑Should I bother trying to replace my HH3000 or just put it in bridge mode and plug my switch into it with the two AP’s? What is the benefit of eliminating the HH300 (internet quality? Privacy? Security?

I've bypassed my home hub 3000. There are a few ways to do it. I've just lazily disabled everything (DHCP/WIFI/DNS/etc) and have my pfsense router connect ppoe directly (you'll need to call bell to get your login credentials if you don't know them). Alternatively you can actually remove the entire SFP module from the bell router and just plug that directly into your router wan port (video).

It's definitely recommended. The Home Hubs have had a terrible security record, the Home Hub 2000 for example had wps wifi always enabled (even if you manually disabled it). Home Hubs traditionally had a backdoor to allow Bell techs remote access, with trivially easy passwords (if not default) and the 3000 is probably the same. Getting your DNS server changed by a remote user accessing the backdoor is probably the easiest path to network pwnage.

Ubiquiti products are fine, I guess. But if you're serious about your network I'd definitely opt for a pfsense/opnsense router. You'll get real IDS/IPS security, ability to use infinitely better server-grade hardware with easy upgrade paths, full suite of enterprise-grade network management tools, the security/piece-of-mind that comes from open-source and you don't offload any work to the cloud (like ubiquiti does) so your network activity remains completely private and is not commoditized. Best of all, you can build a pfsense box from any old computer you have lying around, or pick up a used server from kijiji for next to nothing.

Pfsense noobs should check out Mark Furneaux's comprehensive guide on youtube.
He's also got a really cool video about making a stratum 1 GPS-disciplined PPS time server from $10 ublox gps modules (I've done it and it works great).

swisscanuck wrote: ↑ Guest access page also requires a controller.

The problem with what you're saying is you are treating it like an iPhone or something, where having the latest internals matters. It does not. As long as it can route the traffic as required, it does not matter if it is a 5, 10, even 15 year old design. There is no advantage to "new internals".

This is not entirely true in my understanding. I'm just getting in the unifi stuff and in my research, I've read that the USG has issues supporting the full 1 gig in gigabit internet if certain features are turned on. Dream Machine for instance doesn't have the same issues.

I bought one of these on Boxing Day, if you're looking for an inexpensive way to get started with a Unifi AP, this is a great cheap way to go.

Yes, you don't get the fully integrated view with everything visible in the Unifi Controller, but honestly for most home users like me this works great. Just set it and forget it basically, and check back regularly for firmware updates is all.

It was on sale for $54.99 on Boxing Day, so decent price here!

Loomy wrote: ↑ you went off the rails here. the reliability of a homemade appliance is poor compared to even the cheapest ubiquiti or mikrotik products on a bad day. reliability is the #1 requirement.

how and why? You do realize it comes down to soc and software. Careful entering idolatry towards your brand with out understanding the underlying foundation of how it all works. Its not too difficult to look at software versions and linux kernels and tell you exactly what this mtk soc can do and can't do for ubi or mikro or others. Did you wonder why it was 3.4 kernel for so so long? That was the kernel that supported licensed proprietary Hw nat you could find it in asus and padavan software too and it ran great and had stability and speed. just ask n56u owners or belkin n750, xioami routers which ran that software too. But guess what its kinda at an end the kernel is too old and going forward is basically not happening.

Possibly it didn't jump upto kernel 4.x for quite some time because it would have had to sacrifice that hw nat proprietary driver?? But it eventually did not long after openwrt already got hw off loading builds working and was considered stable by peer assessed community.

This soc as a router has always been reliable across brands with the right firmware like padavan and hw offloading and lede. Its the wifi drivers that caused instability in brands that offered all in one with wifi solutions. Disable wifi run separate ap's its super stable. i know I run an 860l for years with padavan. I am moving to gargoyle as it now supports it stable. But I will use the xiaomi 3g I already own same soc wifi disabled and overclock it to 1100mhz and should with its hyperthreading hit higher rates with simple qos.

swisscanuck wrote: ↑Guest access page also requires a controller.

The problem with what you're saying is you are treating it like an iPhone or something, where having the latest internals matters. It does not. As long as it can route the traffic as required, it does not matter if it is a 5, 10, even 15 year old design. There is no advantage to "new internals".

Try getting more than 150Mbps with IPS/IDS or SQM enabled on a USG. Good luck.

Loomy wrote: ↑ you went off the rails here. the reliability of a homemade appliance is poor compared to even the cheapest ubiquiti or mikrotik products on a bad day. reliability is the #1 requirement.

Careful, your brand loyalty is showing.

Question from a networking noob: once we use a sfp ubiquiti router to bypass the homehub, how does one connect the APs? Like for example the router is in basement and I want the AP to be on the second floor. Do i have to fish an ethernet wire all the way from second floor to the basement?

Crichtonfan wrote: ↑ Do i have to fish an ethernet wire all the way from second floor to the basement?

Yep