Can anyone confirm and/or comment about reliability of this drive? I have an Evo 860 500gb but could use some more fast storage.markolic wrote: ↑ Kingston A400 250GB SSD – PROS AND CONS
+ Pros: affordable, low power consumption, 3-years warranty, solid performance
– Cons: no software tool, not enough performance compared to drives that are slightly more expensive
For a relatively recent PC computer/laptop, to use as a main system drive, I would get a better ssd, one with DRAM cache
For an older PC computer, this makes sense
For a PC computer, as fast mass storage, this makes sense
For a PS4/XBOX drive replacement, this makes sense
I would have thought that the booting process is mostly reading. In the Linux world, you can boot from a read-only medium but I don't know about Windows.JurassicFlop wrote: ↑ Bought one during a flash sale to resurrect a laptop, can confirm it is faster than a 2.5" 7200rpm HDD and works fine for a light use/web browsing device. But I bought this as I doubt this laptop will be relevant in 2-3 years and I know boot time is still below average being a dram-less drive. I would be tempted to tell everyone to go elsewhere for a OS drive or something requiring a bit more longevity.
Why is it better?techiedog wrote: ↑ Better option:
ADATA SU655 480GB 3D NAND 2.5 inch SATA III High Speed Read up to 520MB/s Internal SSD (ASU655SS-480GT-C)
https://www.amazon.ca/ADATA-SU655-Inter ... 744&sr=8-6
59.99$ with coupon.
First off, as a boot drive, I typically don’t put just my boot info/program/operating system on there, I also put applications and other data, so not sure as to the point here, because yes you can put boot info onto a ROM device but that boot info/programs can and will need to be updated at some point if you need to upgrade, and that’s not even speaking to when a system runs that you will need page files or swap files, unless you have enough RAM on to run your apps without info needing to put onto a disk/drive.Hugh wrote: ↑ I would have thought that the booting process is mostly reading. In the Linux world, you can boot from a read-only medium but I don't know about Windows.
I would also think that "dramless" (which really means "less DRAM") would only affect writing. The DRAM is used in the "wear levelling" process.
Can someone set me straight on this?
;) ), I’m not cracking one open to see if it has any DRAM or not, but I would say it’s like a SD card where you have no dram at all. And if there was less DRAM in it, it may be pointless to have it in there if there isn’t enough to be used effectively or make your system run faster relative to ones that have more DRAM.DRAMless means no DRAM. The purpose is for caching, so both read and writes will benefit.Hugh wrote: ↑ I would have thought that the booting process is mostly reading. In the Linux world, you can boot from a read-only medium but I don't know about Windows.
I would also think that "dramless" (which really means "less DRAM") would only affect writing. The DRAM is used in the "wear levelling" process.
Can someone set me straight on this?
I got mine 5+ years ago when it was sold as a kit for my then new build. I got the kit for about $99 at Best Buy and it is still going strong today. Initially, after a few months, the drive would "scramble" itself and I did think I got a lemon. Then I remounted the drive to a drive bay that has air blowing over it just on a hunch that it could be overheating and it has been working fine ever since and is still going strong (knock on wood) as my system drive. So it was my case design that had a nook for SSD's but there was no air flow which overheated the drive (and I didn't know it would do that since I've never had SSDs before).
